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ghettogeddy
07-18-2006, 11:20 AM
i need to know how to do this the hanes manual is telling me i have to remove the lower engine mount can i get away with just the cross member

Pico
07-18-2006, 11:33 AM
if I remember right, took down the crossmember and loosened the exh. pipe.
It's been a while but I think thats all I did

88Accord-DX
07-18-2006, 09:17 PM
Remove that lower crossmember w/motor mount. Then take loose the exhaust from the header. It is nice to unbolt the exhaust past the flexpipe to get it out your way.

I recommend OEM oil pan gasket though. Prep the surfaces good too. Torque to specs. Good luck , that oil pan gasket change takes a little time.

Little trick to keep the oil pan gasket in place is to take some twisty ties off a loaf of bread. Tie them on all four corners to hold the gasket in place. After you just bearly snug the pan up, snip the ties off & remove them.

ghettogeddy
07-18-2006, 09:28 PM
ya he hanes manual says o use some blue rtv at the 4 corners but do i have to hold the motor up with something to get the motor mount off or will it stay in place weith the cross member and lower mount off

mkymonkey
07-18-2006, 09:30 PM
i dont suppose anyone has pics of the removal huh...

i have to do mine too...but since its almost over 100* outside these days....im thinking of shelling out the money to have it done man.

ghettogeddy
07-18-2006, 09:32 PM
let me know how much it cost i already have an oem honda gasket and most shops down here wont use customer products

88Accord-DX
07-18-2006, 09:48 PM
ya he hanes manual says o use some blue rtv at the 4 corners but do i have to hold the motor up with something to get the motor mount off or will it stay in place weith the cross member and lower mount off
The motor will stay in place man. Go ahead and use RTV silicone & see how far that will work, been there done that. I'm just going to say it is best to TIE ALL FOUR CORNERS of the oil pan gasket to the pan with 14 gauge wire (or something) to keep it in place.

Take advice as you please, you WILL see how it is.

Strugglebucket
07-18-2006, 11:31 PM
the easiest way i've found to do it is to put the gasket on the engine block first and then put the pan on. just put it on so all the studs are through the holes in the gasket and it will stay in place. if you try to put the pan on with the gasket at the same time it's hard to get all the holes to line up with the studs.

make sure you clean out the corners where the end caps meet the block and put a little sealant in there. use a torque wrench and tighten all the nuts to 7ft/lbs. start from the center and work your way out alternating either side. you'll probably have to re-torque them a bunch of times to keep them all at 7ft/lbs.

ghettogeddy
07-19-2006, 05:09 AM
ok cool i was really woried that it drop the motor if i dident have a engine hoist

'89AccordLX(Rus)
07-19-2006, 06:24 AM
ok cool i was really woried that it drop the motor if i dident have a engine hoist

ghetto, there is a small rubber mount ON the crossmember. This is what the Haynes manual mentions. Not the rear mount!

ghettogeddy
07-19-2006, 06:35 AM
ya but the manual states that u have to take the front motor mount off

'89AccordLX(Rus)
07-19-2006, 06:48 AM
No need to remove front mount either. I've done the gasket twice already and only dropped the cross member and the exhaust.

frantik
07-19-2006, 06:51 AM
let me know how much it cost i already have an oem honda gasket and most shops down here wont use customer products

i need it done as well.. i got a quote from a local shop and they said it would be about 2 hours worth of labor plus the cost of the gasket which was gonna be like 250 total. they run expensive though so you could probably get it cheaper. depends on labor prices really

MessyHonda
07-19-2006, 12:41 PM
i need it done as well.. i got a quote from a local shop and they said it would be about 2 hours worth of labor plus the cost of the gasket which was gonna be like 250 total. they run expensive though so you could probably get it cheaper. depends on labor prices really

man shops now days just bend you over....my uncle works at mazda so i get all my stuff done at his place..i just get the parts he has the lift and the tools.

Pico
07-30-2006, 08:35 AM
I just finished replacing my oil pan gasket yesterday and for doing it myself for the first time it was fairly easy, just take your time and don't rush I did what ddude2uc said and tied the corners and used sealent on the endcaps like Strugglebucket posted and so far things are all good.
I picked up a OE Gasket from Honda I'll never use a aftermarket gasket again. this is the 3rd time I've had the pan gasket done since buying the car in Dec.05 The first by a friend and the 2nd by a shop that fcked it all up.:rant:
Heres some pics of the gasket that I took off.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8356/fubarpangaskettx7.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fubarpangaskettx7.jpg)http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/9296/fubarpangasket2og7.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fubarpangasket2og7.jpg)http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4495/fubarpangasket3pt8.th.jpg (http://img104.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fubarpangasket3pt8.jpg)
http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/6353/fubarpangasket1ub6.th.jpg (http://img73.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fubarpangasket1ub6.jpg)
I also recommend you check the front crank seal and oil pump mounting gaskets while you are in there,I did and luckily they were still good..
So all I can say to you guys is stick with OE Gaskets and if you can't do the job yourself make sure the shop that you choose knows what the hell they are doing...