Engine Gurus....I need your help!

[tulowtugo]

A little history....

When i bought the car it had an idle problem. For some reason, which i couldnt figure out, it ran with a very high idle. Went on for over a year with the high idle but no problems and the car drove fine with no issues. About 2 weeks ago the car started bogging down and dieing when at idle, but did fine when under load or with slight pressure on the accelerator.

Now the problem...

Today i was driving to work. Not a long trip, at most 15 minutes of in-town driving. It would die every time i went to stop or anytime i pressed the clutch in. Not the rough bogging it did before, but a smooth drop of idle and eventually death. As i was pulling into work the oil light was flashing. The oil light has never came on and ive never had a problem with engine (internally).

About the car...

1988 Honda Accord DX
2.0 carb 5sp

[B16KILLA]

Did you check your oil level ? When was the last time you did a FULL tune up ? Not just an oil change.

[A20A1]

You should always check the oil and coolant and oil and coolant levels at least once a week on old cars.

I got in the habit of doing it every day untill I found the heater hose leak.

[tulowtugo]

oil checked out and the light is off. however, the other problem remains...i have to drive 3 footed to keep this thing running when its idling or anytime i press in the clutch...any ideas?

[Kabuki]

I'm guessing this is carbed? Sure sounds like it. Sounds like some issues with junk in the carburetor, or vacuum leaks. Possibly both. You are going to need to start checking all of the vacuum hoses for leaks. Then check the all of the diaphragms.

[ghettogeddy]

my lx does the same thing it was the throtle stop screw had fell out so i just drive 3 footed till i can get someone to fix it

[keruhas184]

Yeah man, we've all been there. Sure does improve your driving skills w/o idle, doesn't it? There is no easy way out with these carbs. My best advice is to get a rebuilt carb. You can try changing all the vac hoses and putting some carb cleaner down its throat to see if it helps. Search for these carb problems, and maybe you'll find your answer. Good luck.

[ghettogeddy]

yes i am the master at the heal-toe know and i can blance the rpms at 1000 perfectley

[tulowtugo]

ok, so i was tracing down vaccum lines to try and see if that was causing the problem and guess what, i plug a vaccum line that leads to the air box, next thing i know the damn thing stays running. I drove this car to hell and back trying to get it to die again and i didnt even get a decent drop in idle.
BUT, now that it stays running ive discovered another problem. Now it sounds like a big block, i mean the really loud, deep idle. when im sitting still out of gear this thing really sounds like i put a 454 in it. Oh ya, and its idling high again, back up in the 2500 range sit'n still.

[A20A1]

2500 is a bit too much. usually 1200 is the most you'd need even for automatic cars.

try to keep it fairly low though 800-1000. in gear.

[Clark]

Sounds like a adjustment screw of some sort is too far in or out. I don't know anything about these particular carbs, but on snowmobiles they can run really crappy just by having one screw out of proper adjustment. Their is usually an idle adjustment screw (or valve to be proper, which is adjusted by a screw) somewhere on the carb. If you have an older mechanic (ie - one familiar with carbs) look at it for five minutes he'll figure it out. Hope this helps.

Clark

[2oodoor]

ok, so i was tracing down vaccum lines to try and see if that was causing the problem and guess what, i plug a vaccum line that leads to the air box, next thing i know the damn thing stays running. I drove this car to hell and back trying to get it to die again and i didnt even get a decent drop in idle.
BUT, now that it stays running ive discovered another problem. Now it sounds like a big block, i mean the really loud, deep idle. when im sitting still out of gear this thing really sounds like i put a 454 in it. Oh ya, and its idling high again, back up in the 2500 range sit'n still.
Check the large hoses on the drivers side of the air cleaner, one may have not been connected good when you worked on the other thing.

[FyreDaug]

THe deep sound sounds like the Air suction valve, the fat tree looking one (when looking in the engine bay from the front) its on the right side of the motor that connects to the air cleaner from underneith

[keruhas184]

You could disable the AS valve if you want. I believe you just plug #5 at hardline. Or the deep sound could be the carb running too rich...

[tulowtugo]

well, im right back where i was...i didnt do anything but drive it to work and its right back to the way it was..engine dies every time i push in the clutch. it doesnt even attempt to stay running. im about to load the shotgun and have some fun :D

[tulowtugo]

well, im right back where i was...i didnt do anything but drive it to work and its right back to the way it was..engine dies every time i push in the clutch. it doesnt even attempt to stay running. im about to load the shotgun and have some fun :D

[tulowtugo]

btw... thanks to all who have posted ideas, im very gratefull that you all would take the time to help me out.

[A20A1]

1) Check for vaccum leaks.
STEP 1 (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48569)

2) Check Venturies.
Step 2 (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48568)

3) Check idle Adjustment.
Step 3 (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572)

In each thread is a list of other possibilities and/or pre-checks to help ensure that adjustments are made under the right conditions.

[tulowtugo]

#1 No vaccum leaks. However, i did plug one vaccum line that leads to the airbox on the driver's side. After i did that it runs rough when warm but still runs, when it warms up it starts to straight die anytime its not under load.

#2 Venturies are ok.

#3 I tried to adjust the idle using both the stop screw and the adjust screw several times, but, no matter what i did using those screws the idle would not move. I rotated the adjust screw several times in both directions and it did not affect the idle or the main problem.

[TdotWarrior]

#3 I tried to adjust the idle using both the stop screw and the adjust screw several times, but, no matter what i did using those screws the idle would not move. I rotated the adjust screw several times in both directions and it did not affect the idle or the main problem.

yeah i gotta retighten my screw every week or so cuz i think the power of the woofers rattle it out... today its at 900rpm and next week its at like 1500rpm lol.... fucks the shit outta the tranny

[A20A1]

Check your throttle cable then, or disconnect it for a bit.

Then unscrew all the diaphragm screws and go back to the throttle stop screw to adust that.

But again like it says in the idle adjustment thread, your engine has to be running good before you can start making any real idle adjustment.



What line did you plug BTW?

As long as it's not #17 5/32" diamter (labled in white) or #16 (not labled) I think it's 3/8" diameter.

Those hoses should be open. One belongs to a white valve the other is for a thermovalve to let in air pressure (bleed vaccum)


making the adjustments to the carb with the air cleaner off you have to plug vaccum lines # 8 and # 33

#17 and #16 can remain open

Now you are free to adjust and keep an eye on idle screws and float level.

Your car will not run right if you do not plug #8 and #33 with the aircleaner of... if idle goes up when a vaccum line like #33 or #8 is disconnected and not plugged it is because of the idle diaphragm on the passenger side. So don't consider that you solved anything in that case. Plug them, period.




Also you could try this:
1) Disconnect the vaccum advance diaphragm,
plug both vaccum lines (#25 , #2 ) so they don't leak and set the ignition to TDC.

2) Again all idle screws turned all the way out (counter-clockwise) except the throttle stop screw (black screw at rear of carb).
Disconnect vaccum line(s) to A/C idle boost diaphragm
Disconnect vaccum line to idle diaphragm
Plug those lines.

3) The choke confirmed open or held open manually if the choke is not operating correctly at the time.

4) Car fully warm.

5) Set the idle speed with the throttle stop screw to the lowest best idle but nothing above 1000 rpm for now.

6) Reconnect vaccum lines to distributor one at a time, note any changes in idle speed either up or down.
This is an important step since it can help rule out the distributor.

7) Now using the passenger side idle diaphragm screw, turn it (clockwise) untill the idle raises just a bit (100 rpm or so).

Now since the vaccum line to that diaphragm is off and plugged the rod should be pushing at its maximum. Meaning there is no vaccum holding the screw away from the throttle.

Reconnect the vaccum line, the idle should go back to where it was before you adjusting the idle diaphragm screw.
meaning the rod should retract when vaccum is applied to the diaphragm and the idle should drop.

If the idle diaphragm does not touch when the vaccum line was disconnected and you had turned the diaphragm screw in all the way... then you either have too high a throttle plate opening, or the idle diaphragm is broken.



Also other possibilities are fuel pump

Fuel filters

Float adjsutment

Leaking fuel

And vapor lock from something blocking the brass tubes extending down into the float bowl.

Or an overly rich mixture from vapor being flushed in from a futzed charcoal cannister.

Too much vapor in fuel tank from hot exhaust part in close proximity to fuel tank.

Distributor internals covered in red dust?

Oil leaking into distibutor?

Stator Reluctor air-gap off?


Also try disconnecting the air suction valve.

I'm just throwing things out there.