Unique nitrous idea? (3gee go kart project)

[FyreDaug]

As some of you know about THIS PROJECT: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53448 that there will eventually be a need for more power. 140 is probably the most I can crack outta the a20 naturally, and im thinking a nice 50 shot will do. However, me and a friend were coming up with a different way of doing this. Someone tell me whether or not its feasable, i cant draw right now so ill do my best at describing it:

First: a single "50shot" solenoid which is a simple open close operated by voltage (12V signal and it opens, no signal it closes) is the way of using this
Nitrous tank in the back, hose coming up through the passenger compartment (which is open air anyways) to a hand controlled 90* valve http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:AJN4dhR-06u8MM:http://www.wcwpropmgmt.com/images/water%2520valve.jpg which then runs directly into the solenoid.

Placement of the solenoid: I was thinking of spraying down the carb, its gonna have a fairly lengthy intake (about a foot or so long) so if were sprayed right above the opening of the barrels its guaranteed to get sucked in.

How it works: First open up the bottle (which will be open at all times when you think you will use it). You have a simple toggle switch to activate the solenoid (or a safety kill), and you use the hand valve to control how much pressure gets through the hose. I imagine its probably not a linear effect of it being 10% open being 10% pressure comparing 75% open and getting 75% pressure, but youll still be able to limit how much goes into the motor.

And since this method is clearly a dry shot, spraying it through the carb would give a little more pressure (with expanding air) drawing more fuel into it aswell. Its gonna be a big 36/36 weber carb, so itll be able to supply the flow and fuel.

Is this idea practical? I really dont see any flaws in it, we could even bump up the solenoid to a 75 size and limit it where need be with the hand valve.

I was also thinking about injecting directly into the manifold below the carb, but this idea seemed better. Also yes there should be some sort of WOT switch, so if you dont manually close the valve fast enough when you let your foot off the gas you dont blow up the motor

[2ndGenGuy]

http://www.nitrousdirect.com/images/nitrousplates.jpg

This is what I'm thinking about doing, I mean something similar. Since the weber adapter plate is already in there, I figured how hard can it be to have a machine shop fab a couple holes for a fuel rail and nitrous rail in the adapter plate itself?

This way you don't have to worry about the carb not delivering enough fuel to mix with the nitrous, since you're pretty much bypassing it's fuel delivery. All you'd need is a high-pressure pump, a regultor to keep the pressure down at the carb, and split of the fuel line and run it to this with a solenoid.

The only thing I would be worried about if you blew it through the carb is that the carb may not quite deliver enough fuel to mix. I've heard it takes quite a lot of fuel to keep nitrous from leaning out inside your block.

Just an idea...

As far as the rest of your system goes, I don't have any Nitrous experience myself yet, but it sounds good to me. I say go for it!

[szvosec]

The hand valve won't work to control the presure very well, for that you would need a regulator. I use one with my paintball setup to drop my tank pressure (3000psi) down to around 150psi. You should do a search on regulators to demine what would work for your applcation. It would definatly add to the cost of your build though.

[A20A1]

I wouldn't do it with that... that valve looks pretty large. Most nitrous lines are quite small so you get a bit of expansion.

What if that valve only reduces the flow to the solenoid and blocks your SHOT from doing what it is supposed to and you end up with lots of added fuel but no nitrous. It's like only opening the bottle a quarter of the way to try and reduce the pressure. I know thats what you had in mind... but without the pressure behind the jet I just don't see it being any better then taking the time to swap out the nitrous jet to reduce the flow. And for a wet setup I just wouldn't do it that way at all, you'll be taking out any ind of consistancy by adding an extra valve. (I agree with the regulator to regulate pressure)

The nitrous jets, those will determin your flow rate.
So you stick on a small jet and you wont be able to add flow past the max flow of that jet at a given PSI even if you open the valve all the way.

Also putting nitrous down the carb barrel will take up space... space that regular air could be using. You want to spray the nitrous in near the ports under as much pressure as you can. That way you stuff in extra oxygen instead of replacing air with nitrous by running it trough the carb and intake manifold.

You should stick with the dual spray heads that mix the fuel and nitrous at the ports. You'll need that extra fuel pump though to run the wet setup.

There are also fogger plates for the 32/36 38 etc.
But again you ar flowing the mixture through the intake manifold... I would say to get the most out of you nitrous you'd want to wait till the very last point to inject it... that way it isn't expanding and picking up heat in the manifold.



The only thing I would be worried about if you blew it through the carb is that the carb may not quite deliver enough fuel to mix. I've heard it takes quite a lot of fuel to keep nitrous from leaning out inside your block.



I agree, the carb doesn't run in a nitrous rich atmosphere, it was built to run in the current atmosphere so it won't know the nitrous has more oxygen then what it normally sees. You jet rich to run the nitrous at wide open throttle for a dry system.

[2ndGenGuy]

There are also fogger plates for the 32/36 38 etc.

Sweet! I had no idea about this! I will have to look into it...

[FyreDaug]

Well all this will eventually be decided when we build the intake mani for the 36/36 carb, im just running ideas. Id like to be able to control how much nitrous is injected by hand so its not full all at once.

Also thinking of some sort of old choke pulling system to control ignition timing from inside, like a push/pull sorta knob, where center is normal, push in for advance and pull out for retard. And it will literally turn the distributor from thsi cable. Just all sorts of tuning options from inside the cab. All mechanically :p. So that way I dont need any fancy ignition retards when spraying.

Also working up the possibility of a quad ignition coil system, still going by that 12V to distributor idea I had, but elaborating a bit more so it works. It cant hurt to try anyways