hmm overdosed a18as "another problem" thread

[A18A]

well i have no clue at all of whats wrong here, i think my timing is retarded, dont really want to go through the pulling-the-cam-blet-off-and-putting-it-back-on-without-access-to-the-tensioner process again, advanced and retarded dizzy as to the best i can get it, used the timing light to put it back on spot, made it run worse so i put it back, now the car only sounds like a normal car above 4000 rpm :( i took a couple vids so u can see:
http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/?action=view&current=bbce59b7.flv
on the 18th (or so) second, i hold my foot right down on the accelerator and that happened... WHY MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE :(

[A18A]

this car decides to be so random, see that vid up there? well i started the car again, no changes AT ALL except i started it with my flat battery instead of jumpstarting, not that it really matters seeing i disconnect them right after it starts anyway. well the car decided to be good, and i thought that it wouldnt want to move as it usually doesnt, but i seemed to be able to do a skid in it. the car was warm when i took both vids, it doesn't play up when cold, but i think when its warming up that happens. also a bit of black smoke, either retarded timing or valve lash. i wish the car always ran this good, even though it's still shit. well here's the vid:
http://uploadfile.putfile.com/videos/22922500492.mpg right click, save as

no were near as good as my other a18 was though

[A20A1]

What on earth... that first vid sounds like your plugs are on wrong or you got some serious valve lash problems... does the car rock back and forth when you idle?


Have you done a compression check?

[88Accord-DX]

Definetly missing, along with exhaust leak. Check the firing order, spark to the plugs, gap, valve lash. Did you get a valve job done when you put that head back on?
Plugs might be fouled out running like that.

[A18A]

well i cleaned the valves with and made them shine a little bit.. and the firing order is 1342 right?

and i dont think there's a exhaust leak, well i wouldnt know but i cant hear the exhaust comming from anywere except the back of the car.. and the plugs are a bit black-ish

[88Accord-DX]

1-3-4-2 on the firing order, yeah.

Without a leak down tester, try compression testing as mentioned. If you had a multimeter, you could do some simple tests.

Next time you pull the head off. Remove the cam & rocker arms, turn the head upside down & pour water on the valves. If any water leaks past the valves, your valve isn't seating properly.

[A18A]

cant i just adjust the valve so it closes more tightly?

[A20A1]

You don't want to touch the head or the valve where the two meet, you need the right tools if you have to redo the valves and head to make them seal better. Sanding or cleaning that area of the valve or head could make it leak more.

The spring on the valve determins the pressure... you need to make sure the valve lash is correct or else the cam will hold open the valve.

[A18A]

so its not my timing :(

[A18A]

im about 2 do a compression test... what do i do? i know that i gotta hold the compression thingy down a spark plug hole, then get sum1 2 crank the engine while i hold it there. what psi should i be getting between?

[rjudgey]

You need to open the throttle full at the same time too, you should get between 160-200 for a healthy engine 110-150 for one thats high mileage and anything less than that has some serious issues with valve seats or rings.

[A18A]

i got 150 psi :) well around that anyways, couldnt tell how much exactly as the needle only shoots there for 0.00000000001 seconds. so with that psi on all 4 cylinders, my valves should be shutting right and my rings should be good? then its gotta be the intake/carb then eh? also could running the tank on less than 1 gallon or so be bad?

[Deadhead]

when you run the compression test, your gauge should HOLD the pressure.

When i tested mine for the first time, it wouldn't hold pressure just like yours. Turns out the timing belt had jumped a tooth so it was not allowing the valves to seal.

Those vids sounded extremely bad... check your valve timing, valve lash, and replace plugs/wires/cap and rotor.

[A18A]

well they did hold, just not long enuf 2 see the actual number it was on. plus wouldnt having all the plugs out make the starter turn faster seeing theres no compression in any of the cylinders? yeah i ran the test on all 4 cylinders :) also my timing is pretty retarded right? it runs alot smoother in the higher RPMs (above 4000). i also adjusted the dizzy back with the timing light coz when i put the other leads and plugs in the dizzy was loose as hell. just not so sure about the valve timing, and the only way i can really adjust that is if i had a way of getting the tensioner loose :( i have never had the belt jump a tooth or anything before either

[accord upset]

check for a major vacum leak like a brake booster unpluged or a port like that maybe even a smaller vacum line. mine ran the exact same way when i forgot to hook the brake booster back up.

[A18A]

the only hoses i havnt checked for a vacuum leak is the 9999999999 hoses coming outta that black box. i supose i better start looking for a leak then eh? *sigh* i also never have m dizzy advance on, and them other 2 hoses that go into the waterline thingy, also replaced the pvc valve and that other black box between the air intake and valve cover. and dont think the brake booster effects the way the car runs either :S 1 thing i dont have on the car though is the heat sheild for the hot air going into air cleaner from the exhaust, i lost that when i replaced the head gasket. i might have a go at advancing my timing a tooth or more.

[accord upset]

no the brake booster doesnt affect how a car runs but if the big vacume line that runs to it is disconnected it will be a terror to start it will try to die anywhere under 3000 rpms and plugs will miss. thats what i was talking about. not that the brakebooster is accually bad making it run god awuful. meaning brake booster = no effect ,,,,,,,, huge vacume line going to brake booster disconnected = run like total poop. but i think ur accually closer with trying to advance your timeing a tooth now that ive seen both of your vids when i suggested a major vacume leak i had just seen your first vid.

[A18A]

any idea how many teeth i should advance it? cause its a hella anoying pita to pull the belt directly off the cam gear and putting it back on without the tensioner :(

[A20A1]

Yeah dude the brake booster uses intake manifold vacuum. If you said you removed the vaccum line... ss long as you have it plugged it should be okay.

[A18A]

hmm whats the difference if i dont plug it (just curious about other hoses) cause on the dizzy advance if i plug it/ put hoses on, the car just stalls or runs very rough.

ahh deleted this part of the post. im sooooooooooo lost