drive to maine developed some "big" problems

[labeledsk8r]

well as some of you guys know i was leaveing florida and heading up to maine, i ended up driveing my 3gee so i could keep her, well as i left my city she started blowing some smoke out the tail pipe (not from the coolent problem i had before i took care of that) i figured it was some oil from my oil change i did the day before, i had over filled it a bit so i figured it was burning off, well it kept doing it for state after state, after nightfall i didnt notice it so i just kept on trucking, well by day brake i stoped for gas and desided to check my oil and top up since i know i had a slow leek, i filled it back up and started off, right away it started smokeing real bad, and did this for a while, my car wasnt over heating atleast the gauge ddint say so, since i have gotten to maine it hasnt done it, but when i lifted the car up i noticed alot of oil on the oil pump pully and the belt squels when i start her up, could this be a bad oil pump nad could this cause it??? if so what parts am i gona need?? ima have to order everything since im out in the middle of no where. but im here in maine and i got some pics but my cell doesnt work in maine lol and im 56K now but im back, thanks alot guys

**edit** just to add, ima do a compression test to make sure i didnt screw up a cylinder or 2 aswell, i need to get the smokeing fixed asap

[MessyHonda]

swap in a fuel injected engine....yeah you are have a shit load of problems....your rings could be busted...or valves

[labeledsk8r]

i dont have time or money to fuel injection swap, if i did that i might as well get a new car considering all the body damage my car has, as long as it runs good with the mods it has im happy, ima be buyg a new car when i go off to college but keep the 3 gee for a daily driver, but as of now i just want it running good again, ima do the compresion test tomarow and i pray it reads good, there was a sh*t load of oil around the oil pump, would a bad oil pump cause the engein to burn oil???

[2oodoor]

the sky is falling the sky is falling. not to worry this time, just grab and umbrella aka oil pump seal kit, just o-ring s, also cam seal.
Labeled,dont worry so much , the enging would have hardened o rings regardless of fuel system . If it were mine , going by what your saying here, would do those things and repl timing beltk it bound to be oil soaked,thius real risk to belt sliding over a couple o teeth on cam gear.It sounds like you did not loose a lot of oil , but just the annoying smoke. SEARCH the forum for oil leaks,and discover how many LXi or LX have. their the same pracitcaly exact plant except intake mani and pvc design. .. look into replacing pvc system, oil filter base o ring special shaped one, o ring on oil separator.
all of these seals are very easy to replace but your gonna need to lift upt the car a good bit.There almost always the same place where the leaks showup, lord bless Honda for not using RTV sealant like
General Junk Motors or FWD chryslers... And I hopeyou dont find anything seriously wrong with it not matter how bad you want too... just joking man...stay with commonality of specific models and you will see them all here at 3g, for problems,or areas where work was recently done. I hope you get it resolved, and good luck, send me some lobster cakes on dry ice sometimee.... lol

[labeledsk8r]

well i pulled the plugs for a compresion test, the 2 center plugs are coverd in oil , the outside ones were a little damp aswell but chared over on the tips, i avent done the compresion test yet becuse i know hat the oil in the cylinders with throw off the readings. i doubt a bad oil pump can couse this but i have no idea.

and roodoo2 i have replaced all of the seals you have listed i used to burn oil on my downpipe, all of my smoke now is out of the tailpipe. and not loseing much oil?? i lost over 9 quarts on the trip (kept refilling along the way) this isnt a normal oil leak,

[labeledsk8r]

ok just did the compresion test and here they are.

these are from left to right (looking at engine) far left 130 ps, center left 181 psi, center right 169/170 psi, far right 155/160 psi, there all off by atleast 10 psi so know something is out of wack. like i said before theres oil in every cylinder, any ideas? or places i should start takeing apart to check??? im clueless

[UnforgivenPyro]

damn man, that sucks...i hope you get everything straightened out...keep in touch bro...

[MessyHonda]

ok just did the compresion test and here they are.
these are from left to right (looking at engine) far left 130 ps, center left 181 psi, center right 169/170 psi, far right 155/160 psi, there all off by atleast 10 psi so know something is out of wack. like i said before theres oil in every cylinder, any ideas? or places i should start takeing apart to check??? im clueless

yeah i dont like that 130...could be busted piston rings or bad valves.

[Oldblueaccord]

ok just did the compresion test and here they are.
these are from left to right (looking at engine) far left 130 ps, center left 181 psi, center right 169/170 psi, far right 155/160 psi, there all off by atleast 10 psi so know something is out of wack. like i said before theres oil in every cylinder, any ideas? or places i should start takeing apart to check??? im clueless


if its not a leak externally then yeah its prolly the rings.

Thats a pretty long trip miles wise so 9 quarts into what 2500 miles is not great but its liveable.

Did you have a valve job done when you did the head gasket maybe there was a mistake there with the valves guides?

wp

[AccordEpicenter]

was it overheated?

[labeledsk8r]

well im getting ready to start pulling it apart tonight, starting with the valve cover and working my way down. if i cant fix this then ima be forced to part out the car but i hope it doesnt come to that.

yeah the trip was long, but the final milage was 1,637 miles, and 9 quarts used durring the trip so i got 2 oil changes done while on the road, im hopeing its going to be valves not rings (if its not something simpler) but who knows.

i dont think the car has over heated, atleast not while i have owned it, it has blown a hose twice since i have owned it but as soon as it blew i shut the car off. the guy that owned the car before me did not take care of it at all, thus why i have dumped so much money into fixing it, so it could very well have been over heated by him, i will check back in once the valve cover comes off and if needed the head taken off

[labeledsk8r]

well valve cover is off, there was alot of oil up top there (am i suposed to drain the oil first lol??) but oil was spilling out as i took the cover off so it seemed a bit much up top. what shouild i be looking for? test posible to start checking for the problem area?? this will be the first time riping an engine apart so im in noob city right now

[ghettogeddy]

i dient drain the oil in my lx when i put the polished valve cover on nor did i have any spill out

[3G Jester]

what a drive. i would love to travel every mile of 95. as an east coast boy thats my high way and would be hella fun :) but then i would love to drive the oposite way ruinning up trhe coast seeign everything i could.

way to stop in VA, dick :P

hope all works out with your 3 g

[labeledsk8r]

ok i have desided to pull the head, i have the radiator coolent draining now, never done this before but its as good of time as ever to learn :).


way to stop in VA, dick :P
haha yeah my bad i was on a time limit, i actully had to turn a few people down on quick visits/mini meets on the way up. i had ended up driveing the whole thing non-stop (except for an hour nap on the new jeresy turnpike,and no not while driveing lol), but yes the drive was very nice, i really woulda loved to stop an sight see a bit, thought i could do it on the way back, not so much now as i might not have a car.

i will keep this updated as much as posible

[MessyHonda]

well valve cover is off, there was alot of oil up top there (am i suposed to drain the oil first lol??) but oil was spilling out as i took the cover off so it seemed a bit much up top. what shouild i be looking for? test posible to start checking for the problem area?? this will be the first time riping an engine apart so im in noob city right now

yeah i took off my DX cover off and nothing spilled.all the oil should be in the oil pan not on the valves. yeah hope its a cheap fix like a gasket or something

[Oldblueaccord]

ok i have desided to pull the head, i have the radiator coolent draining now, never done this before but its as good of time as ever to learn :).
haha yeah my bad i was on a time limit, i actully had to turn a few people down on quick visits/mini meets on the way up. i had ended up driveing the whole thing non-stop (except for an hour nap on the new jeresy turnpike,and no not while driveing lol), but yes the drive was very nice, i really woulda loved to stop an sight see a bit, thought i could do it on the way back, not so much now as i might not have a car.
i will keep this updated as much as posible

Well that does sound wierd like there's to much oil in th top of the motor. There should be a little under the cam its like in an oil bath.

Maybe when you did the head gasket last there where some drain back holes that got covered maybe.

How much oil did you drain out ? did it seem excessive like more than 4 qts? Maybe when you checked it hot on the road most of the oil was in the top pf the motor and not in the oil pan. If it was over filled it be smoking and splash from the crank really get into the cylinders.



wp

[labeledsk8r]

yeah i was wondering if to much oil up top could be a problem. i dont even know were the oil return lines are for the top? right now im draining the oil and takieng out the front end/radiator for more room, then takeing out powwer stearing and such for more room to pull the head, with the head off i will be able to check the valves and look at the tops of the pistons to see if there f*cked. i will try to get pics up sometime but i have to transfre the pics threw 2 computers just to get them to the internet lol, i will keep posted

[AccordEpicenter]

im gonna guess the cylinders have bad scoring and the pistons are cat pawed.

[labeledsk8r]

im gonna guess the cylinders have bad scoring and the pistons are cat pawed.

i know.... thats what im afrade of... if thats the case ima have to scrap my car, i cant aford a new engine, hell if the rings are bad ima be debateing to drop cash for a rebuild kit, just to much money dumped into a carb accord (with body damage) only time will tell, i got some pics but cant upload till my actual computer gets setup for internet

[labeledsk8r]

ok out working on the car somemore, and im still clearing around the negein trying to make space (its amazinge what honda can fit in such a small space) but i was pulling the power stearing mount and a/c compressor mount out and i look at the bolts as i pull them out, the lower 2-4 bolts for the a/c mount were coverd in oil, wet fresh oil, i had pulled my a/c along time ago but couldent get the mount out, i didnt think those bolts held anytihng besides the braket, posible crack?? dont know, also do i really need to take out my carb and all that BS stuff just to get the intake manifold out, thanks

[AccordEpicenter]

take the head/carb/intake mani/exhaust mani out as one piece, itll save time if you decide to fix the engine or decide to shitcan it

[labeledsk8r]

i have never done this before, i have the exaust manifold out, but the intake one im haveing trouble i know were the main bolts are the conect it to the head, is there anytihng else? i really hate screwing with the carb on this car anyways, oh well, i hope to have the head off by tonight, i hope

[AccordEpicenter]

leave it together and take the head off with the intake manifold still on the head. Dont forget about the support bracket under the intake mani

[2oodoor]

hope for the best , maybe is was just a head gasket or valves. sorry dint know you had done oil pump already, I thought you mentioned you were concerned there . It is better to leave intake on head but you have to make sure everything is unattached, every hose, wire, connector, oiltube.etc, dont force it off if you feel resistance, let the head rest kinda off to the side and look with flashlight, dont loose the dowel pins and Oil whistle, (orifice in center rear of head), taking off the exhaust before hand is recommended unless your like big green and busting outta your normal clothing...hulk
different strokes for diff folks...good luck, also look around for used 3 g in the area for free or next to nothing, there around esp carb models..

[labeledsk8r]

heres the update, i finaly got the head off, and god am i gona have a pain putting it back together (thanks to snaping many vacum lines and vacum fittings) i included pics (sorry didnt resize them) to see your opinions but heres what i got, the cylinders lookd fine except some carbon build up, the head on the other hand had wet oil on the outside cylinder wich was the cylinder showing the 130 psi result on the compresion so im guessing my head gasket is crap, also my valves have really bad carbgon build up and dont know if i should A. just clean them. or B whatever other options i have. . heres the pics opinions and ideas/feedback welcome
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/000_3347.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y126/labeledsk8r/000_3349.jpg

[MessyHonda]

^^^yuck^^^ i bet there is a way to wash that stuff out....

[djcslice]

my 92 accord had 220,000 miles on it when i changed the head gasket, and had little to no carbon build up. I have never seen that much carbon on an accord. Maybe its due to an older engine design but thats a lot of carbon.

[labeledsk8r]

yeah i am kinda thinking just get a new head or atleast new valves, they have like 1/8th of an inch of junk on them, but mayby some good cleaning will prove me rong,

im starting to make a parts list of stuff i need and stuff i should replace while its apart. anyone know were i can get random vacum line spliters new at?


my 92 accord had 220,000 miles on it when i changed the head gasket, and had little to no carbon build up. I have never seen that much carbon on an accord. Maybe its due to an older engine design but thats a lot of carbon. yeah could be becuse its carb aswell, but i dont know, it did seem a bit to much lol

[Oldblueaccord]

I;d be more worried about what the bores look like the carbon on the head and pistons. Thats just from it burning oil like a dog.

The bores should still have there cross hatch type pattern like the books pictures show. If you see verticle scratches drag your fingernail accorss them if it catches (you feel the scratch) thats the problem.

I just hate to see you put a redone head on it and the rings are shot.

No wear"s to get another motor. The places here are going for like $200 running all I can haul.


wp

[carotman]

To clean the head, you can use a drill with a wire brush on it. It will clean the carbon real good.

Check everything really good. If the headgasket was shot, it would have been burning coolant much more than oil.

[MessyHonda]

i was just talking to my uncle and he said that they sell some gasket remover spray or something and it also cleans off the carbon....when we did my headgasket i sprayed some in the cylinders and it made them look like new.....i would try liquids insted of the drill.....but yeah if the liquid does not take it off you might have to go with a drill....port and polish...hot...lol

[labeledsk8r]

I;d be more worried about what the bores look like the carbon on the head and pistons. Thats just from it burning oil like a dog.
The bores should still have there cross hatch type pattern like the books pictures show. If you see verticle scratches drag your fingernail accorss them if it catches (you feel the scratch) thats the problem.
I just hate to see you put a redone head on it and the rings are shot.
No wear"s to get another motor. The places here are going for like $200 running all I can haul.
wp

well i was worried about that aswell and i was one step ahead of you, i checked each cylinder, draged my finger around lightly and could find nothing, smooth as ever, but are there any other ways to tell ? tests? im also worried about cleaning the carbon from them can i get solvents on there that might seep into the rings?


........ If the headgasket was shot, it would have been burning coolant much more than oil.
actully not to far back i was haveing alot of trouble with the car burning coolant,heres the thread i had started on it a little bit back http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53604 i had checked carb seals and intake manifold hoses and couldent figure it out, it only would burn coolent once the car was hot, my guess is that it would build up enough presure to break the seal on the head gasket, also the smokeing i was getting wasnt fully black (shouldda menchion before) it was dark but it coulda easyly had some coolent mixed in and i woulda never known..

this is the bigest project i have ever done, i have never had a place to keep my car to do this type of stuff till now, i need to find part numbers/names to alot of coolant hoses/ random large hoses (not vacum lines) under the intake manifold, i thought i saw someplace that i can bypass the coolent so i dont have it in my intake manifold? good idea? i will be starting a partslist soon, due to no junkyards up here if i even lose a bolt ima have to order it from somplace, thanks for all input

[Oldblueaccord]

Short of tearing down the motor and micing the bores and all that there's really no way to check the rings any more than you have. Im not saying there good.

Most good Honda bores you can see that cross hatch patern still on the metal. If they look real smooth and shinny i d be leary.

I guess in your situaution I'd slap a head gasket on it and let it roll. Even if your back to square one hey oils cheap.


wp

[carotman]

Yeah, I would just replace the headgasket too. Leave the pistons like that. The important thing about carbon buildup cleaning is that you want to remove carbon deposits that might get loose and trapped between the valve and where it seats in the head, creating a small compression leak. A soft wire brush is what the guy at the rebuild shop used to I guess it's ok to use them. I noticed that when I swiped a rag soaked with acetone, it removed most or the surface deposits too (not the big chunks).

If you want to change the rings, this is quite a big job but you're halfway there tough. You got to unbolt the connecting rods and take the pistons out. While you're at it, you might as well check the crank bearings for any kind of wear. If you did that, you would have a trouble free engine for quite some time. However, this is alot of work that's not worth it IMO. Just replace the gasket and forget it. If you're really worried about the rings and oil burning, replace the engine with a JDM Import. They aren't more than 500 bucks and have low miles. That would save you alot of trouble.

[labeledsk8r]

im a bit worried about the rings, but i dont want to just throw the head back on in its condtion, i was also considering doing my water and oilpump and timeing belt while i had it all apart, but i dont want to waste cash, i do not want to do new rings, to much time and effort for this car, it has alot of body damage, i jusst figure its cheeper to fix it then buy new, if anyone knows of any other way to check the rings please let me know, im wanting to atleast get new valves put in just becuse these valves dont seem to close all the way due to carbon build up (yes its that bad), i dont know i might be able to find a rebuilt head for cheap, but im still stuck between a rock and a hard place, spend all this money to find out the rings were crap, or just replace the head gasket and have something else go not to far down the line and be back in the same boat. right now im just makeing a list of needed parts and a might list for other things i wouldent mind changeing out, but its all in the air right now

[labeledsk8r]

ok quick question how good are the gasket kits and the waterpump/timeing belt kits from ebay? worth my time or no? also does anyone on here have a rebuilt head they are wanting to sell if so a price? i odnt know if ima do the head, just getting some numbers into my head, thanks

[AccordEpicenter]

i would not use anything but genuine honda headgaskets and water pumps. Ive had both items fail when i used cheap shit

[MessyHonda]

i used an ebay headgasket set....it came with alot of gaskets for 43 bucks...so far it works good....i went with a genuine honda water pump, timing belt and tensioner...it came out to like 120 bucks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/Messybone/car/DSCF1847Small.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/Messybone/car/DSCF1846Small.jpg

[labeledsk8r]

what seller did you go threw for the gasket set? and were can i order honda parts online? i havent checked carpartsteam.com yet they had all the stuff when i rebuilt my airbox all honda parts, this damn dial up makes it hard to search around

[labeledsk8r]

well i cant find a good kit, i hate not being able to actully look at the stuff, all im finding are kits like these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACCORD-PRELUDE-85-89-HEAD-GASKET-SET-A20-A20A-BS1-BT_W0QQitemZ140020713271QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33667QQ ssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem the head gasket looks allright but the exhaust gasket looks like crap, i remember when i took of manifold to put on the headers it had a compresed metal gasket just like the head gasket any ideas on were to get a kit that doesnt cost me an arm and a leg? i might start a new thread on all the parts needed

[Oldblueaccord]

Just to ask another question... did you car have decent oil pressure on the drive up? if you had a guage on it of course.

That could tell you how good the bearings are.


wp

[A18A]

i was gonna say just retorque your head but your gonna replace the headgasket. with compression like that, seems like your head is warped, maybe you wanna replace that if possible. hopefully its not your rings

[MessyHonda]

well i cant find a good kit, i hate not being able to actully look at the stuff, all im finding are kits like these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACCORD-PRELUDE-85-89-HEAD-GASKET-SET-A20-A20A-BS1-BT_W0QQitemZ140020713271QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33667QQ ssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem the head gasket looks allright but the exhaust gasket looks like crap, i remember when i took of manifold to put on the headers it had a compresed metal gasket just like the head gasket any ideas on were to get a kit that doesnt cost me an arm and a leg? i might start a new thread on all the parts needed

i got this kithttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ACCORD-BS-A20A1-CYLINDER-HEAD-GASKET-SET-HHSA20_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33667QQihZ004QQi temZ140029167180QQtcZphoto....i guess they lowered the price...i got it when it was 35 bucks plus 8 buck shipping...comes with most of the gaskets.

[labeledsk8r]

i was gonna say just retorque your head but your gonna replace the headgasket. with compression like that, seems like your head is warped, maybe you wanna replace that if possible. hopefully its not your rings yeah im trying to locate either a rebuilt one for cheap or a good one with lower miles on it


Just to ask another question... did you car have decent oil pressure on the drive up? if you had a guage on it of course.
That could tell you how good the bearings are.
wp i didnt have an oil pressure gauge on it, so i dont know, its one of those things i wish i had




i got this kithttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-ACCORD-BS-A20A1-CYLINDER-HEAD-GASKET-SET-HHSA20_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33667QQihZ004QQi temZ140029167180QQtcZphoto....i guess they lowered the price...i got it when it was 35 bucks plus 8 buck shipping...comes with most of the gaskets.

awsome, did all the gaskets seem good? seems like all of them have crapy exhaust gaskets that are 3 seprate peices

[MessyHonda]

yeah the i looked at the company website and the stuff seamed legit...not some chinese website trying to make a quick buck....yeah the headgasket was chill....i had it for like 4k no more oil or coolent leakage....so yeah did you clean your head yet? i put my valve coler in a parts cleaner but some paint started coming off.

[labeledsk8r]

yeah the i looked at the company website and the stuff seamed legit...not some chinese website trying to make a quick buck....yeah the headgasket was chill....i had it for like 4k no more oil or coolent leakage....so yeah did you clean your head yet? i put my valve coler in a parts cleaner but some paint started coming off.

true, i will order it up tonight then. no i havent cleaned the head yet, im trying to locate a new/rebuilt/one with less milage for a good price, ima check mine for warpage tomarow, the valves themselves are 2 worn down for re-use i think anyways, so im not takeing any chances, and on the valve cover ima probably repaint it with some high temp paint, either a nice gloss black or the ricer red to mach my custom intake lol

[88Accord-DX]

Since you got the head off, clean the carbon deposites off the valves & top of the piston. Pull the cam out off the head & pour some water on the bottom of the valves. If it leaks, the valves aren't seating good. Be sure to replace the head gasket with "metal head gasket". If you have a valve spring compressor, would be a good idea to replace the valve steam seals too. Check the head for any warpage & pressure test it. (good insurance)

Edit- I didn't see your getting another head, anyhow. I would pull the cam out & see if the valves are leaking regardless. Still would have it pressure tested & checked for warpage.

[labeledsk8r]

well now im f*cked, since im in maine i dont have a checking acount so i went and got a visa gift card thing to order parts with, and it wont work, now i dont know how ima pay the person for the shit i orderd, im new to online ordering but damn i fucked up

[88Accord-DX]

Screw online mail order stuff, just go to local parts house & get the head gasket & such

If your talking about the head, look around town.

[labeledsk8r]

im in maine, the napa here specailliuzes in tractor parts hahahha, the population were im at is about 400 people gve or take a few

[carotman]

Where exactly are you in Maine. Like I said, you can get a complete Low miles JDM A20A here for like $500CDN. Replace the regular maintenance parts on this engine and it's going to be good for like 200 000 miles again.

[labeledsk8r]

im in a place called wilton, its next to a biger town (still small) callled farmington, i dont really want/have a place to put a new engine in, its got way to much body damage on it, mostly if the new head/gasket doesnt work, im parting the car out for a frew weeks then draging it to the closest salvage yard (atleast 3 citys away) but im hopefull, mostly i just need to get money on my paypal acount, since i just moved here i dont have a checking acount so i got one of those visa pre paid cards and well it wont work, now im stuck with 250 bucks on a card and me oweing someone 36 bucks on ebay becuse it didnt work

[88Accord-DX]

Tell ya what. E-mail the seller of the head gasket set on ebay & see if he will take a money order. Maybe you can get a money order with that pre-paid visa. If that don't seem logical, I look up the nearest town that you can get one at. (head gasket set)

[labeledsk8r]

Tell ya what. E-mail the seller of the head gasket set on ebay & see if he will take a money order. Maybe you can get a money order with that pre-paid visa. If that don't seem logical, I look up the nearest town that you can get one at. (head gasket set)


yeah i called the company today just becuse i really need to get this car roleing again. they seemed to take the prepaid over the phone, i called my card and said that it was still pending so i hope it went threw, now i need to get a good waterpump,timeing belt, almost all the water hoses (do i really need to be running water threw my intake?? i could easyly bypass it right and not run into trouble??) and some vacum lines that i snaped and will have to figure out new coupleings. so i should get these things roleing, any good places to get a qaulity waterpump besides ebay lol

oh and i saw another 3gee today, to bad it was in the local demolition derby at the local fair (talk about some rednecks lol) it got pushed out of bounds so it had no real damage and should be comeing back to he demo derby on sat. lol it had a cool paintjob

[labeledsk8r]

ok well i was cleaning the old gasket off the head. i was useing a fine wire dremel bit in my dremel, dont know if it was the corect thing to use or not it only got about half the head done before it was chewd up beyond use. but i noticed that there is alot of small pitting marks, it wasnt from the dremel becuse they were there before i started cleaning it, i thought it was just old gasket but its not, any ideas? and do i need a new head? also whats the easyest thing to use to remove old head gasket? sometihng about a gasket scraper? thanks,

i also got tired of looking for a good online honda parts dealer and orderd a knock off tieing belt and tensioner so all my parts "should" be comeing in.

[88Accord-DX]

ok well i was cleaning the old gasket off the head. i was useing a fine wire dremel bit in my dremel, dont know if it was the corect thing to use or not it only got about half the head done before it was chewd up beyond use. but i noticed that there is alot of small pitting marks, it wasnt from the dremel becuse they were there before i started cleaning it, i thought it was just old gasket but its not, any ideas? and do i need a new head? also whats the easyest thing to use to remove old head gasket? sometihng about a gasket scraper? thanks,
i also got tired of looking for a good online honda parts dealer and orderd a knock off tieing belt and tensioner so all my parts "should" be comeing in.
I personally clean aluminum heads with a 90 degree angle die grinder & a plastic "bisquit" type cleaning bit on it. I'd be carefull with any wire type bit on the dremel. Depending on how deep the pits are, you can get the head shaved, the least amount to take out the pits. Don't go over .004 ....
Also, you have to be carefull scraping gaskets off the head with any kind of scraper. If you knick the head up, it could cost you. They make some gasket remover you can spray on there to help remove the gasket. Then scrape gently with a scraper. Clean out the bolt holes in the block good too.

[AccordEpicenter]

i only use razor blades and do it very carefully, i hate those gasket disks

[88Accord-DX]

i only use razor blades and do it very carefully, i hate those gasket disks
Actually I use a razor blade, then clean it with a plastic "biscuit". It isn't cost effective for me to spend much time with the blade, but I get 95% though with it.

[labeledsk8r]

I personally clean aluminum heads with a 90 degree angle die grinder & a plastic "bisquit" type cleaning bit on it. I'd be carefull with any wire type bit on the dremel. Depending on how deep the pits are, you can get the head shaved, the least amount to take out the pits. Don't go over .004 ....
Also, you have to be carefull scraping gaskets off the head with any kind of scraper. If you knick the head up, it could cost you. They make some gasket remover you can spray on there to help remove the gasket. Then scrape gently with a scraper. Clean out the bolt holes in the block good too.

well i dont know were i can go to reshave it, there are a few small "light" scratches on the mounting side (head gasket side) um can i use what your useing to even it out, i also checked it for warpage before i took all the gasket off just for an estimit. it says in haynes that it cant have more then 0.08 mm (i think) lift and i was easyly fitting the 0.08 under my flatedge with no resistance, so im kinda at a stand still with that, i will try to keep updated, im at a local library useing there computer right now, my grandparents computer got screwd up lol

[labeledsk8r]

almost forgot, i need to know what the hose is called that is on the intake manifold and goes down to a black box that i think had oil in it, it goes from small (manifold) to large (black box thingy) and looked like it has some type of valve on it 2, i snaped the damn thing in half and need a new one, any info would be great on this or about not running coolent threw my intake manifold, thanks! :)



**edit** ok it goes to the PCV valve so im guessing its the pcv pipe that i broke lol

[88Accord-DX]

well i dont know were i can go to reshave it, there are a few small "light" scratches on the mounting side (head gasket side) um can i use what your useing to even it out, i also checked it for warpage before i took all the gasket off just for an estimit. it says in haynes that it cant have more then 0.08 mm (i think) lift and i was easyly fitting the 0.08 under my flatedge with no resistance, so im kinda at a stand still with that, i will try to keep updated, im at a local library useing there computer right now, my grandparents computer got screwd up lol
Well, I didn't find anything on head warpage limits in my Haynes manual, but did find something in my Chiltons. Here is what is says.

If it is less than .002 in. (.05mm), resurfacing is not required. If warpage is is between .002 - .008 in. (.050-.2mm) the head must be resufaced. Any warpage is excess of this requires replacement of the head.

Also, since your replacing the PCV hose, might as well replace the PCV valve.

[labeledsk8r]

yeah i checked it with those numbers and its on the verge of needing a new head, im thinking ima get a new head just to play it safe, i mean i dont know if the seals or something were leaking, and i dont feel like ripping it apart again. so ima see if i can order a good head for cheap.

also the rear engine mount or trany mount (the bar going from the trany to the back fire wall) the bushing is blown out isnt there like a 3M product to put in there to stiffen it up, i would weld it but dont have acces to a welder, i like solid mounts anyways

**edit** still need info on not useing intake manifold water hoses if anyone has it aswell thanks :)

[88Accord-DX]

also the rear engine mount or trany mount (the bar going from the trany to the back fire wall) the bushing is blown out isnt there like a 3M product to put in there to stiffen it up, i would weld it but dont have acces to a welder, i like solid mounts anyways
**edit** still need info on not useing intake manifold water hoses if anyone has it aswell thanks :)
If you talking about the water hose that runs underneath the intake. The purpose of it is to warm up the EFE plate on the bottom of the carburetor. It helps atomize fuel in cold weather.

You could probably plug it off, just might take longer for the carburetor to kick down after warming it up.

[labeledsk8r]

ok, i got a few more noobish type questions 1. were can i buy a PCV Valve Elbow online? its an hour drive just to et to the closest honda dealer and no part store has it, also what is the bushing type thing that is in the large end of the bar that goes from the fire wall up beside the carb, its shot to hell and i need a new one or mod this one, finaly were can i find a list of all the water hoses in an accord, they wernt in my haynes, thanks

[88Accord-DX]

The two online sights I know of for parts are Majestic Honda & San Leandro Honda. Majestic -- http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ San Leandro -- http://www.honda-parts.net/

You can get on their site & can show you most of the water lines. Also, a guy names Paul make a link to information. Not sure where the link is. Can search around for it, you have to download it.

I beleive the bar your talking about is the "dog bone" or upper motor mount. I beleive that bushing is pressed in there & would need to replace the whole bar.

[labeledsk8r]

allright thanks i will check it all out, all i know about the bar was i puled the bushing out very easyly lol, thanks alot

[88Accord-DX]

That link to Pauls shop manual is above all the technical threads at the top. Labelled as "IMPORTANT" in red.

[labeledsk8r]

just got done spending another 100 bucks on there, that made life alot easyer, thanks a lot, i never knew that site was around, i think i just found every last peice i needed (besides a new head) so once everything is here the rebuild starts

[labeledsk8r]

That link to Pauls shop manual is above all the technical threads at the top. Labelled as "IMPORTANT" in red.

yeah i allready knew it was there and have tried a few times to get onto it, i think this computer is way to slow to get onto it or something, i had a blank page for over an hour and refreshed it a few times after that, must be the 56k kiling me

[labeledsk8r]

ok this is a quick question , could a blown pcv valve suck oil into the intake?? i mean the hose went right into my intake, i was burning oil, my intake manifold is chard with carbon build up just like the valves, i might have had an easy fix if it was this. and that means i can reuse my head without buying a new one, thanks alot if anyone knows, and i might repost this question in its own thread just becue i need t know so i can get my car rebuilt a.s.a.p, thanks

[labeledsk8r]

, i took care of that screw driver problem i had listed in another thread..she is idleing high and is excelerateing by itself slowly while in drive, i thought it could just be i dont have the throutle cable on right, but now i got a new problem, the cable that copmes outa the fire wall (next to the throutle cable)and looks like it goes to the tranny, somehow rubbed up against my headers and melted all to hell, so i gotta figure something out... but she was running and even drove about 1/2 a mile today

[88Accord-DX]

Yep, remove the lower bellhousing cover to get the screwdriver out after "granny" dropped it.

I'd let grandpa work with you now. lol

[AlfredoPDX]

my engine was smoking on the highway and i took it to the shop and all he did was change the pcv valve and it hasnt smoked since

[88Accord-DX]

Bottom line here, if he did a compression test & pressure tested the coolant system, he could have pin-pointed his problems in the get go. You learn somewhere. (along with diagnosing other issues)

[labeledsk8r]

Bottom line here, if he did a compression test & pressure tested the coolant system, he could have pin-pointed his problems in the get go. You learn somewhere. (along with diagnosing other issues)

i had done the compresion test and they came back bad thus how i figured out my head was bad, i used to allways get bad pinging and like that even after timeing it and timeing it, and theres only so many diffrent areas in the timeing system that can go rong, i have checked and rechecked the belt and gears and all thats lift is the park part wich i can prove the dizzy is bad,, bottom line is im out of time and its all going to the junk yard for scrap, and all it should need is a dizzy, but w/e

[88Accord-DX]

Yeah, your in luck. Jason860 will send a dizzy on Monday if you can wait.