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nskforlife
09-08-2006, 08:30 PM
Hey guys. I've been trying to restore my car now since forever lol. but i noticed that under the trunk matting theres only a piece of flimsy cheap cardboard holding up the trunk.... and i dont like it. soo heres my idea.
http://www.photofreeway.com/data/500/trunk.jpg
the only thing i dont have an idea for is how to keep the board up without holding it by myself. if all else fails, i want to make my trunk more sturdy

A20A1
09-08-2006, 08:35 PM
I got some plywood in the back... it adds more weight but it's nice and you can glue on some carpet. You could even cut holes in the board and stick in some tupperware bins to hold the emergency oil/radiator fluid and what not. But more carpet on the box top and then it becomes a somewhat hidden compartment.

Plywood is the only thing that withstood the in and out of heavy luggage.

Pico
09-08-2006, 08:37 PM
what type of board are you going to use to replace the thin board thats there?
And thats a good idea, Im gonna have to try that

nskforlife
09-08-2006, 08:42 PM
i'm gonna use 1/2 inch mdf board. i'm also gonna seal the wood with a sanding sealer to keeep it waterproof. i'm also thinking about putting some kind of rubber base on it too 1. make it grip the trunk body and also to keep rattle down. theres nothing worse than hearing your whole trunk slide to the left around a right turn.

A20A1
09-08-2006, 08:43 PM
Yes, good idea :)

nskforlife
09-08-2006, 08:45 PM
sweet. when i do it, (kinda busy working 6am-6pm mon-sat at the moment) i'll try to make som pretty good estimates on what sizes the wood needs to be.

keep the responses coming. i wanna know how everyone feels about this idea.

RamThis
09-08-2006, 08:59 PM
Funny you mention it, because that was one of the things I was going to do while I was doing all the other work Im about to start on. I planned on using some of my leftover 3/8 D/D Sheathing (cheap, low quality faced plyboard used for structural sheathing on houses, yet just as strong, just not good for finish work, which doesnt matter anyway since it will be carpeted) I just planned to use the original piece as a template for the removable piece, and use some filler where needed to keep the truck floor all level for the carpet to set flush on.

Pieces you want to stay in place, you could use some clear silicone caulk to adhere them to the car.

Another nice thing is, if you use plyboard, you can attach some tie-downs to the floor, like boat moorings or some of those countersunk ring tie dows, and buy one of those tubes of assorted bungee cords to keep in the trunk. When you get an odd item that you want to put in the trunk but dont want it rolling and flopping around, you can secure it with some bungee straps.

A18A
09-08-2006, 09:08 PM
lol i have 2 pieces of plywood in my boot aswell :P

nskforlife
09-08-2006, 09:08 PM
ya i was thinking of that. i work at a paint store and could get me som clear rubberized silicone to put on it for dirt cheap, maybe even free. and just use a caulk gun and put it right back on the shelf. HeHe then i might put back the oem carpet back in the trunk to see how it looks.

A20A1
09-08-2006, 09:37 PM
just use the tar that goes on the caps to acces the fuel pump... thats always yummy stuff :)

RamThis
09-08-2006, 09:50 PM
just use the tar that goes on the caps to acces the fuel pump... thats always yummy stuff :)


yeah I'm about to figure out what that stuff is all about this weekend.... :sad2:

MessyHonda
09-08-2006, 10:13 PM
yeah that is a nice idea....my uncle was looking for the fuel pump when he put his hand in the flimsy stuff just riped....i was not mad since my plans were to put a sheet of plywood. im going to take pics of mine. i just walked in with 20 bucks in my hand to home depot and got a sheet of 1/2inch plywood and a hand saw...it came out clean....i droped water and coolent and the wood just turn a bit green...it also came in handy when i had 2 10 inch subs...you can screw them down for sequrity and like that they wont slide all over the place.

nskforlife
09-09-2006, 02:13 PM
just use the tar that goes on the caps to acces the fuel pump... thats always yummy stuff :)
while this would get the job done. That stuff is a MESS!!!!! i just put some of that on a leaking roof today. No Way would i mess with that stuff for inside my car. i'm just gonna use some clear silicone adhesive caulk and i also tweaked the plans. the side hinges are not gonna be there. i have enough room to lift up the compartment without these being in the way. i'm gonna get some cardboard cutouts for measurements probably monday or tuesday. i'll post them on here.

HondaBoy
09-09-2006, 02:18 PM
sounds like you have a good idea for making that trunk piece. so, your car's trunk floor piece was cardboard? mine is a plastic sheet. kinda flemsy, but its not too bad. considering my speaker box sits on it.

nskforlife
09-09-2006, 02:22 PM
plastic??? i've never seen that. i drive a lx and i have never seen a plastic piece at any junkyards. plastic would be better than cheap ole cardboard. i'm gonna use 1/2" mdf board from home depot. a 4'x8' sheet goes for a little less than 20$. and i might even make a sub box for the sides with the excess and fiberglass it off.

mkymonkey
09-09-2006, 02:58 PM
there was a thread on how to do this on 7thgencivic....hmm


ok i found it:

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3159559#post3159559

kinda gives you a general idea on how to do it

RamThis
09-09-2006, 05:58 PM
I love that design!!

Only question is, what is that carpet type material he used? Looks like it doesnt have an actual backing so it would be more flexible for odd curves.

Where can you get it at???

HostileJava
09-09-2006, 06:41 PM
That page isn't loading for me, is there site just having issues?

RamThis
09-09-2006, 08:16 PM
Just checked and the link works ok for me still....

mkymonkey
09-10-2006, 01:28 AM
the stuff he used was the carpeting that they sell on crutchfield. give me a sec and ill get the link for ya

link for the carpeting used (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ADqOXFtxzFB/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=746&avf=N)

HondaBoy
09-10-2006, 01:32 AM
hmm, ill take a pic of the trunk piece thats in my car.

mkymonkey
09-10-2006, 01:51 AM
well fuck it ill just post the info here


I did this cause I wanted a sexy, functional trunk, that allowed EASY access to my spare tire. Hope this gets stickied and added to DIY section!

Warning: There is alot of reading here, so I hope it is more in-depth than you need. Don't think i'm talking down to you, I just want to make this as easy to understand as possible. Hope you guys like.

-----------------------------------------
Part I

Suplies Needed:

Large uncut piece of MDF, or other strong wood. If buying MDF get 1/2" or 3/4". I used 3/4".
Carpeting (Link to carpeting I used, from crutchfield.com (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ADqOXFtxzFB/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=746&avf=N) )
3M Super 77 spray adhesive, or comprable adhesive (worked well for this kind of carpeting)
Wire, Wire, more Wire. Power, Ground, Signal, Amp turn-on, etc.
Wire management (distribution block(s), etc)
Wire ends!!!! Get em!
Zip Ties
my email address: diskreet(at)gmail.com
Many, many screws. Like 10+ wood scerws, and 5+ metal screws. More is better!
Set of hinges. 4 or 6 screw hinges from lowes for like $5 will do.
L brackets, from lowes. small 4 screw ones are fine. About $5.
Handle, also about $5 at lowes. MAKE SURE THE SCREWS ARE ABOUT 1" LONG!!!


Tools Needed:

Screwdrivers, all kinds. More is better here also :p
Cordless Drill
Batteries for drill
Pliers
Jig saw
Circular saw
Horses
Flashlight
Zip Ties
Safety Goggles
SHARP razor
Shears for carpet
pens, markers, paper for designing and sketching
other stuff I am forgetting!
Dremel

Remove everything from trunk; including the plasic piece surrounding the latch hook, the carpeting, the floor, the spare and tools, and the carpeting on the sides. Keep all screws and mounting hardware from the removal.

Take the Carpet that covered the floor board before. Place it over your MDF and trace the edge of the carpet onto your MDF. Leave a few inches of clearence on each of the 3 sides and the 4th should be about 1/2 in the large piece of wood you have.

UPDATE: Here is a pic with the sizes I used (all measurements are rounded to the nearest 1/2". I also measured these after putting the carpet on! Yours may be a bit smaller:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diyM.jpg

Using the circular saw, cut off the other like 1/2 of the MDF which you will not need. This is the part with nothing stenciled on it. If you dont understand me here I dont think you need to go any firther with this project. :p

Now that you have a more managable piece of wood with less edge space, get out the Jig Saw.

Saw the odd little shape out, taking your time with each bend. If you cut a little off its perfectly OK! When you carpet over you will not see the mess-ups, but try to sand/dremel and edges to something smooth. Especially where the wood chips off, which it will.

Test fit the cut out MDF you have now, it should somewhat fit in there well.

Put the side carpeting back on (vertical, with lips touching the floor of trunk) and put the wood back in. Because of the lip of this stiff carpet type stuff, it will not fit perfectly, but thats ok. thats what the razor is for later.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy1.JPG

Mark lines on each side of the wood to get something like this shape here:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy2.JPG
Make sure that the pieces you cut will be supported on each side by the floor! We dont want you making the middle too skinny and falling in!!!!
I recommend 33" wide in a sedan trunk!

Obviously get out the circular saw and cut these pieces out.

Test fit again, this time with the spare tire in its place!

Put sub box in this time. Make a line a few inches in front of box, but make sure if you cut there that you will have enough room to get the spare out with only the front piece open!

Remove, and cut on that line. Now test fit one more time to make sure!

One last piece to cut, if you want it like mine. Measure from the top of the MDF floor you created in the side corner right in front of the tail light to the top of the trunk interior. measure the rough width of the area you are working in. With a 3/4" MDF floor I used a piece 14 1/2" x 18" in my sedan.

Ok so take it out, its time to carpet!

To carpet place one piece of wood at a time over the carpet. Cut out the piece with about 1 1/2" - 2" extra all around. I recommend getting all pieces cut first then carpeting.

Spray the Carpet and wood with a medium coat of adhesive. let get tacky for about 1-2 mins. Spray again then apply the carpet. make sure you pull tight over the whole piece and smooth on so you dont get bubbles and wrinkles.
If you have tight corners cut a slit in the carpet and cut excess so it doesnt fold on itself. any parts that lift just spray over and push hard, keeping pressure until it is set.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy3.JPG

Let set for a while - 15 mins+.

Now lets get the handle on. Cut some carpeting away in that area and drill 2 holes just big enough to get the handle screws in. Rest is self explanitory.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy4.JPG
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy5.JPG

Now lets get the razor out for some fun. Too bad I dont have any good pics for this. Pretty much just put the wood back into place in the trunk, with all carpeting and trim in place. Using the razor cut any spots of carpet that prevent the MDF floor you made from lieing flat. Usually any place the carpeting sidewall stuff curves horizontally to touch the floor cut it off. Now everything sits very level.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy6.JPG

Now take the 2 middle piece out and install the hinges. Drill + screws + common sense = finished installing hinges. You may want to drill countersunk pilot holes before carpeting but good luck finding them later.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy7.JPG

Put the spare back in now, and the tools if you want, since the wood is staying in place now.

Run all wires you the side now, behind the carpeting stuff that makes the "sides" of the trunk. Dont cut anything yet...

Put the box in now, using L brackets to secure it. I nice trick is mock-mount everything and mark the edge of the L brackets, seating them under the box like I did. Now take the box out. Keep the L brackets in place and screw them in using screws and the drill.
After that you want to put the box back in and screw in to the L brackets. The reason we did this is so you dont have the bottom of the L bracket sticking out, the box is actually sitting ON it! Good idea eh?

So we are down to the home stretch; the amplifier (and possibly capacitor too.)

Mock fit the wood into place. What we want to do it first take the carpeted wood piece we cut earlier and make sure your amp fits well on it. If so we are ready to proceed.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy8.JPG

Cut a nice complete slit in the carpeting on the wall, so we can place this new piece we made behind it. You can drill holes in the carpet to run wires through to the front or just cut it and glue it to our board later on like I did. Either way works, but Maybe the way I didn't do it will look cleaner.

This is the hard part: The way I mounted the board is slightly tricky. 2 L brackets on the bottom are no problem, but the top is another story. With the board in place the very top should be resting on a large metal tab of the inner trunk frame usually hidden behind the carpet. You need to get a screw through the wood and the metal to secure this in. It took me many many tries to get it in the metal and a burn or two but if you have a helper hold the wood firmly into place you are set! Once mounted plug in the amp and mount (screw) it on.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy9.JPG


to be continued......

mkymonkey
09-10-2006, 01:52 AM
Like in the pic you want to get everything routed nicely. Spray carpet adhesive and trim as necessary to get the carpet into place over the piece we made that the amp is mounted on.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy10.JPG

If you want the amp lit like mine replace your bulb with an LED bulb from LEDautomotive.com cause it shies right over in that direction.
Night Shot:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy13.JPG

Clean up and enjoy!!!
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy11.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy12.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet//install12.JPG

-----------------------------------------
Part II

Here is how you can secure your tools and your spare tire for $5
Parts needed:

Hard foam block (Wal*Mart sells them for under $5)
Marker
X-acto knife
Optional: Drill with hole cutting bits (for spare lug nuts)



Make sure the foam fits in the trunk under the wood floor. If not, cut it down to size.
Lay everything out on top of the foam and figure where you want it. When you have it all in place, outline everything with the marker.
Remove everything from the foam.
Use the knife to cut along the lines you drew on the foam.
Put the knife in a slit you cut and turn it. It should take out the foam in chunks.
If you carry anything round (fuses, lug nuts, wheel lock key, etc) use a drill to drill out holes, a little smaller than the object, about 1/2 way down the foam.
When you have the foam with all the little channels for the tools, test fit everything. Make some adjustments as necessary.
When you are finished you will have this:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam1.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam3.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam2.JPG

To keep it in place put a sponge between the foam and the spare tire. It will all stay in place perfectly. Enjoy!

mkymonkey
09-10-2006, 01:54 AM
Like in the pic you want to get everything routed nicely. Spray carpet adhesive and trim as necessary to get the carpet into place over the piece we made that the amp is mounted on.
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy10.JPG

If you want the amp lit like mine replace your bulb with an LED bulb from LEDautomotive.com cause it shies right over in that direction.
Night Shot:
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy13.JPG

Clean up and enjoy!!!
http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy11.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/diy12.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet//install12.JPG

-----------------------------------------
Part II

Here is how you can secure your tools and your spare tire for $5
Parts needed:

Hard foam block (Wal*Mart sells them for under $5)
Marker
X-acto knife
Optional: Drill with hole cutting bits (for spare lug nuts)



Make sure the foam fits in the trunk under the wood floor. If not, cut it down to size.
Lay everything out on top of the foam and figure where you want it. When you have it all in place, outline everything with the marker.
Remove everything from the foam.
Use the knife to cut along the lines you drew on the foam.
Put the knife in a slit you cut and turn it. It should take out the foam in chunks.
If you carry anything round (fuses, lug nuts, wheel lock key, etc) use a drill to drill out holes, a little smaller than the object, about 1/2 way down the foam.
When you have the foam with all the little channels for the tools, test fit everything. Make some adjustments as necessary.
When you are finished you will have this:

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam1.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam3.JPG

http://premium1.uploadit.org/diskreet/DIY/trunk_foam2.JPG

To keep it in place put a sponge between the foam and the spare tire. It will all stay in place perfectly. Enjoy!

A18A
09-10-2006, 02:09 AM
i like that foam thingy idea, thats pretty clever :)

MessyHonda
09-10-2006, 08:25 AM
wow that is cool....i can still do it to my car since the wood is uncut.

RamThis
09-10-2006, 09:34 AM
i like that foam thingy idea, thats pretty clever :)

You can shadowbox your toolbox drawers too. We did that at Lockheed, all tools were controlled and shadowed, so that if one was missing, we could tell exactly which tool it was, and stop the assembly of the aircraft until it was found to make sure it was not FOD'ed.

Makes keeping up with your personal tools at home alot easier too. Easier way to do it is to find some thinner sheets, about an inch thick, cut all the way through one layer for your shadow, and glue it to a solid sheet, leaves nice clean bottoms to the shadow pockets.

nskforlife
09-10-2006, 02:26 PM
thats not a bad idea. tomorrow i'm going to get cardboard and start making rough dimensions for the trunk. i have a 4dr sedan if the sizes of the trunks are different than the hatches

nskforlife
09-11-2006, 04:09 PM
i got the cardboard cut, but its not cut using detail. mosquitoes are bad tonight , so i'm gonna have it done tomorrow.

i used that real thin cardboard that comes on forklift pallets. if i screw up on it i'm gonna use rosin paper, then transfer it to the thin pallet cardboard. i'm not gonna use regular cardboard cause it is typically hard to make a curve on cardboard without taking your precious time, and by that time i'd be eaten alive by mosquitoes. so ya.

sinisterfuzzy
09-11-2006, 07:25 PM
damn that looks so freakin' nice... really clean, i'm going to have to add that to my list of mods to do, i really like the foam idea, NOTHING IN thiS WORLD pisses me off then when i'm going around a corner and shit's rolling around... i have more then enough good reasons to hate this shit too... one i broke a bunch of mugs that were rolling around in the van, and i have dents from the inside of my trunk out from my sub box rolling around. so yeah, what ever i can do to get some cleanliness is good. and i really like this. :thumbup:

Civic Accord Honda
09-11-2006, 07:29 PM
the board that was in my car was full of mildue and mold grose so took it out and thew it away
the trunk to that civic looks sweet i think i will try that when i get some extar money

RamThis
09-11-2006, 08:06 PM
the board that was in my car was full of mildue and mold grose so took it out and thew it away
the trunk to that civic looks sweet i think i will try that when i get some extar money

Check your trunk seal, if it was that wet, something is leaking somewhere.....

Might even get someone in the car with the back seats down and the carpet removed, give them a flashlight, and hit the rear of the car from different angles with a pressure washer blast and watch for leaks.

Civic Accord Honda
09-11-2006, 10:26 PM
ya i know water is geting in there when i took the donut tire out it was full of rust and there is some light rust in the trunk pan but nothing magor no holes or anything .
but it is a new york car and then a alaska car and then a new jersy car and then a yosemite car so it has bean in alot of wet places

snoopyloopy
09-12-2006, 07:03 AM
oh, i love that idea. i've been meaning to get one out the jy but if i can make one this cheaply, i think i'll do it. mine got raped in the back part right in the middle so my trunk looks like a pile of junk.

sinisterfuzzy
09-12-2006, 12:14 PM
would that be pretty easy to take in and out because that stuff would be pretty heavy and deffinately not your friend on race nights...

HondaBoy
09-12-2006, 05:19 PM
ok, here's the trunk floor piece that i'm talking about. dunno if y'alls cars came with it but mine did and it works ok aside from that i have no plastic panels in my trunk and no carpet anymore since i just have my sub in there. later on i may think about making some panels and clean my trunk up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/HondaBoySi87/DSC04796.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v260/HondaBoySi87/DSC04797.jpg

RamThis
09-12-2006, 06:37 PM
That doesn't look stock, looks like a flourescent light cover from a suspension ceiling.......

mkymonkey
09-12-2006, 06:43 PM
ive actually seen many of those type of floors at the jy's. though mine was the gay cardboard one.

MessyHonda
09-12-2006, 08:10 PM
yeah my dx came with thoes cardboard one...i have to check wut my Lx-i came with.....it could be like a japanese/american thing

Pico
09-12-2006, 08:11 PM
My LXI is cardboard too

MessyHonda
09-12-2006, 08:25 PM
My LXI is cardboard too

let me go check now...then....

just went out...a cop was in the middle of my street?...weird...anyways ints carboard....i may be right about the japanese/american thing

sinisterfuzzy
09-13-2006, 09:06 AM
My LX features a warped piece of carbboard...

HondaBoy
09-13-2006, 07:02 PM
if it helps my car was a japanese imported one, not ohio built.

Gemini2003
09-19-2006, 09:34 AM
Yeah I had a peice of MDF going on in the back and it looked Hella Gehtto.. this guy did it right an I'll definitly going to be cleaning up my trunk like this aswell :-) I love having a shop :-)

BITESIZE
09-19-2006, 11:32 AM
Mine.....http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/379000-379999/379742_137_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/379000-379999/379742_138_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/379000-379999/379742_134_full.jpg

nskforlife
09-25-2006, 06:36 PM
thats Real NICE!!! But not as functional as i want my car to be. i want to seat 4 comfortably. lol

nskforlife
10-12-2006, 04:27 PM
k, i made a layout of the trunk board using rosin paper. i should have it in and functioning within a month.

nskforlife
11-18-2006, 05:36 PM
i'm still working on the trunk board, i used a dremel xps400 for making the initial cuts, and i'm using a da sander to make it line up with the car, i made the board about 4 inches bigger on each side and i'm gonna sand it down to fit,
a little piece of foreknowledge: the dremel takes Foooorrreeeevveeeerrrr to jigsaw through 3/4 mdf board. i would've went thinner but lowes only carries 3/4 mdf. and i'm gonna be working on da sanding down the wood tomorrow. i dont have a digital camera, but i'll try to get a friends to show the cuts and what i did... wish me luck.

jschatte
11-19-2006, 06:07 PM
i think it would be a better idea to use a jigsaw or a curcular saw to make the intial cuts (thats waht i used for mine) but if you dont have either of those, GIVE ER!

nskforlife
11-19-2006, 07:57 PM
lol ya, my dremel doesn't work anymore, it died on the last piece. pos, i'm gonna call dremel to see if they'll replace it since i know it came with a warranty, but ya, i got the 1st piece cut that lays in the back of the trunk. it fits mostly flush. i'm gonna add sound deadener to the bottom of it once i'm all finished so itll be flush and wont move one bit. but ya, jigsaw is on my x-mas list so i better get one!!!! haha i'll post pics once i get my pictures from my buddies camera.

jschatte
11-19-2006, 08:00 PM
haha guess the dremel got a little worn out :)
for the bottom of mine i just used some of this stuff that looks like weather stripping and is sticky (I think its called dum-dum or something)

nskforlife
11-19-2006, 08:06 PM
i'm getting a roll of raamat from raamaudio.com , it's sound deadener and since the main reason that i'm making the trunk board is for speakers, it fits the purpose. . lol i'm still working on the plans of what i want but i think i've got it finalized, i'm gonna have 1 jl 8w7 in the center of the trunk, mod the backseat armrest to when it folds down you can see the sub, and have 2 amps on each side, 1 4 channel amp pushing the oem speaker housings, and a 250:1 jl amp pushing the sub, i'm gonna try to hid the wires and everything too and add a fiberglass rack for the amps to be mounted too so i still havent came up with a good frim idea on how to do it, but i'm gonna do it, slowly but surely...

MessyHonda
11-19-2006, 08:44 PM
i'm getting a roll of raamat from raamaudio.com , it's sound deadener and since the main reason that i'm making the trunk board is for speakers, it fits the purpose. . lol i'm still working on the plans of what i want but i think i've got it finalized, i'm gonna have 1 jl 8w7 in the center of the trunk, mod the backseat armrest to when it folds down you can see the sub, and have 2 amps on each side, 1 4 channel amp pushing the oem speaker housings, and a 250:1 jl amp pushing the sub, i'm gonna try to hid the wires and everything too and add a fiberglass rack for the amps to be mounted too so i still havent came up with a good frim idea on how to do it, but i'm gonna do it, slowly but surely...

how much are you paying for the mat? im thinking of puting 2 10 inch kickers that i already have its like 300RMS...so nothing big.

nskforlife
11-20-2006, 05:12 AM
i think somewhere around 130 for a 50ft roll, so it's pretty decent :), i'm gonna probably be buying it here in probably a couple of weeks, so i'll pm you on pricing.

nskforlife
12-10-2006, 09:00 PM
k, so i got my trunk board installed. it took me 2 trys to get the cut right for the main piece. but its in there. i'll try to get pics tomorrow to show. next is exterior spar varnish to keep it waterproof, then raamat!!!!!

Cheeseburger
12-10-2006, 09:03 PM
raamat??? eh? whats that?

MessyHonda
12-10-2006, 09:08 PM
raamat??? eh? whats that?

its an alternative to dynomat...its like 1/2 the price with the same performance...i would put some on but i dont think a 10 inch sub will make my car rattle alot..lol

nskforlife
12-11-2006, 02:47 PM
lol ya, if i get the sub installed, it's gonna be an 8w7 lol, ya. i'm painting the boards at work, sooo. no pics today, but they'll prolly be posted up tomorrow! thx

MessyHonda
12-11-2006, 03:07 PM
lol ya, if i get the sub installed, it's gonna be an 8w7 lol, ya. i'm painting the boards at work, sooo. no pics today, but they'll prolly be posted up tomorrow! thx


you should be fine with 1 10 inch w3v3....they hit nice...

nskforlife
12-11-2006, 04:11 PM
i'm going with the 8w7 cause, 1. my goal is sQl, not really spl. i'd rather have my setup to where I think it sounds good, rather than everyone else on the road think it sounds like crap, if ya know what i mean/ :) but ya. i'm painting the board tonight and early tomorrow to get it waterproofed for the most part. i need to do just a little more sanding on some areas to make it fit just right. then next is the raamat and then the origional carpet. after that i should be ready to get my box made for the sub. and 2 amps.

MessyHonda
12-11-2006, 05:19 PM
i'm going with the 8w7 cause, 1. my goal is sQl, not really spl. i'd rather have my setup to where I think it sounds good, rather than everyone else on the road think it sounds like crap, if ya know what i mean/ :) but ya. i'm painting the board tonight and early tomorrow to get it waterproofed for the most part. i need to do just a little more sanding on some areas to make it fit just right. then next is the raamat and then the origional carpet. after that i should be ready to get my box made for the sub. and 2 amps.


ok cool its just that with the w7 you have to have an amp that handles low omh and still give clear sound...a jl amp would be a good match...

nskforlife
12-13-2006, 03:40 PM
rgr that, i'm getting the 250:1 amp for the 8w7, jl recommends it for the sub...
i do my research.

2ndGenGuy
12-13-2006, 09:42 PM
I did something similar in my trunk a few months ago. Cept my amps are hidden just above the spare tire.

http://image.boompa.com/images/users/2/2n/2ndgenguy/rides/cb5838701e24d881316689d646d515f1_140.jpg

Wish this pic was bigger, I'll have to find another one later. I also carpeted the sides of the trunk so it would look nice like the floor. Plus the box is carpeted to match.

nskforlife
12-14-2006, 10:02 PM
nice man. very nice. i've got the trunk board done, i have some final touch ups to do to it. it's at work getting painted. i'm putting 2 coats of exterior paint to keep it from getting weathered. then comes sounde deadener mat across each piece. make sure it stays in place. it should be super strong and super quiet. but the holidays are here and moneys tight across the board. i can't get into spending too much money right now. so i'm setting it up and waiting on the moment and money hits again.

CALM01
12-26-2006, 10:29 PM
Hey, i did a similar project in my boot like 2 years ago now. The purpose was the same as yours, for SQL. I notice that all the pics are of peoples boots that have been re-carpeted. I used a slightly simpler method that retains all the practicalities of a stock boot along with ensuring excellent SQL.

Here's a few things of note from my install.

The original carpet that continues down from covering the back seat can be used to cover the new base (i have JDM model, not sure of others).

MDF is very efficient on providing a solid base as well as excellent sound deadening. I used 8mm and guarantee that anything thicker is over kill and un-necessary weight. i'm running 400WRMS and have run higher on the same base with not even a hint of requiring anything thicker...i think that if your require thicker than 8mm MDF you'll have bigger fish to fry cause you'll probably rattle your car apart, not to mention go stone deaf ;)

Once you have a stencil of the boot base that you want then break it up into 4 different sections, from the same piece of MDF (this will ensure the best fit)

One section runs the lenght of the back seat and comes as far approx 10-15cm over the spare wheel towards the rear bar.

The next section is the largest and is a rectangle (except for some slight curvature where it touches the body of the car just below and to the right of the boot lock) Make this section wider than the wheel well itself so its sits up of its own accord. This section will allow you to have reasonable access to your spare in case you need it.

Then the other two sections simply go either side of the main section to fit the shape of the boot and ensure the entire base is covered.

Use a jigsaw to cut all the curves (and always cut smaller than you think, this way when you're finished it looks damn fine, and fits like a glove)

To 100% ensure a tight fit and no rattling (rattling being the anti-christ to SQL junkies such as myself) then also purchase some rubber stripping (i bought mine off a role at a hardware store, its meant to be for sealing or something, it has one sticky side and one not...its reasonably spongey and good bloody luck trying to rip it with bare hands) and attach it to the MDF where the MDF touhes the car itself. i also added some around where the biggest board touches the other boards so that if there was any shrinkage of the wood in the future (which there hasn't been, not exactly wanting any moisture in my boot with all that expensive audio gear in there) there would still be no rattling.

I then simply got some old sheets and stuffed them in around the spare wheel and placed an old piece of sponge over the nut that holds the spare wheel in place.

The rear peice should be more than big enough to hold your sub/s (i have an older 12" pioneer sub in a huge pioneer box, my girlfriends new 12" pioneer model would fit two where i fit my one) You can screw the sub with brackets if you like, but all i have is a big rubber sticky mat to hold the sub and amp on its lil custom stand i made in place, and believe me over the last couple of years i have more than my fair share of high speed cornering and not once have i had any significant, equipment damaging movement from either unit. This way you can access your spare at any time and due to the awesome depth of the boot you will still have some serious room to put things if need be. (although i only ever put soft items in and only when the back seat is full ;) the things we do ey??)

Once all the work is done pull the original carpet back over the top and no one will see all the hard work, but they will listen to your thumping clean bass and think you're a magician, for having such a clean sound.

This project from memory took around 3 hours from start to finish. i still have comments today on how damn clean my system sounds and although many others factors contribute, i think that this simple and practical project is certainly key.

Anyway...thats my 2 cents

jigga89SEi
12-27-2006, 08:51 AM
Here's mine... Don't know if you saw it.. But I thought Id add to the discussion,,,
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid220/pd5abe662a86dd5483a7d093794e64cb0/ebaf5378.jpg
Open

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid220/p3a1463010ad3597d8ed93dd7db391462/ebaf535c.jpg
Closed

Cheeseburger
12-27-2006, 10:01 AM
its an alternative to dynomat...its like 1/2 the price with the same performance...i would put some on but i dont think a 10 inch sub will make my car rattle alot..lol



ohhhhhh:welcome:

MessyHonda
12-27-2006, 06:24 PM
:stupid:

89lover
12-29-2006, 10:40 AM
i made a custom fitted 1 for my trunk and it workz peeeeeerrrfect!!!!!

nskforlife
01-10-2007, 03:21 PM
i made mine fit finally, lol takes like 10x longer with no garage and pos tools... anyways, i'm still working on getting it perfectly level with the surface since its 4 pieces. theres these plugs in the trunk that make the big piece stick up just a little bit, so i'm going to embed the wood somehow around the plugs. what would be the tool for the job to make a circle in the wood, yet not go all the way thru???

MessyHonda
01-10-2007, 03:45 PM
i made mine fit finally, lol takes like 10x longer with no garage and pos tools... anyways, i'm still working on getting it perfectly level with the surface since its 4 pieces. theres these plugs in the trunk that make the big piece stick up just a little bit, so i'm going to embed the wood somehow around the plugs. what would be the tool for the job to make a circle in the wood, yet not go all the way thru???

i say you cut thoes plastic thines off. insted of making the wood weak

nskforlife
01-13-2007, 11:36 AM
cutting the wood down 1/8 inch isn't gonna make the wood weak, i used 3/4 mdf board. it will outmuscle you messy..... oOOOOOOoooohhhh. lol

hotdoghogie
01-13-2007, 11:44 AM
man... this is why i love may hatch... a 10inch sub sounds 20x bigger in a hatch

MessyHonda
01-13-2007, 06:10 PM
cutting the wood down 1/8 inch isn't gonna make the wood weak, i used 3/4 mdf board. it will outmuscle you messy..... oOOOOOOoooohhhh. lol
:ugh2: