PDA

View Full Version : Delta Cam 260 grind



Jasonf860
10-10-2006, 07:49 AM
Just got a quote from Delta cam for the 260 grind. Price as of this morning:


The 260 would be the best grind for all around performance. The cost will be about $93.50
Scott

Just thought it's useful info for anyone looking to do the cam....

snoopyloopy
10-10-2006, 07:50 AM
shipped or plus shipping? if it's shipped, that's a wonderful deal. if it's plus shipping, that's a great deal.

bobafett
10-10-2006, 10:17 AM
the last couple times i ordered cams from delta it was 104 shipped. they will give you around $30 off if you send them a core cam or send your stock cam back. :) so it comes out to around 75 bucks shipped (minus YOUR shipping charges) after you send back a cam. really good people there and they are super fast!

snoopyloopy
10-10-2006, 10:46 AM
hmm...only ~$100 shipped. that's pretty good, even if you don't send your stock cam back. and so that means that they actually have some in stock?

Jasonf860
10-10-2006, 10:52 AM
Well, I'm seriously considering getting a cam done by them. I'm going to look at an LX-I coupe 5sp tonight about 50 miles from my house. I've been really conemplating doing any more than cosmetics and regular tune-up/maintenance on my LX just cause I can't stand the carb. It's too much of a pain when it's cold, and it can get really cold here sometimes. And on the plus side, I would have less "upgrading" to do to the brake system with an lx-i and they are just all around more powerful. I'd take a 5sp lxi over an automatic lx any day and I think most would too!

EX-ileAccord
10-10-2006, 11:16 AM
I really want a cam for mine too. can anyone tell me what kind of gains Im gonna see with one of these?

shepherd79
10-10-2006, 11:23 AM
i had delta 272 grind from them about 2 years ago. it was best upgrade i have ever made. 272 IMO is the best grind. it is more for the mid and top range. After 2-3 month i wasn't enough for me. so i sold it. now i have colt wild grind sitting in my closet to be put it.

bobafett
10-10-2006, 11:33 AM
yeah i wouldnt bother with a 260 cam.

i had a 272 for 3 years, and it maintained stock idle, and stock drivability. you lose a little low end, and make up for it nicely in the topend. especially if you have intake header and exhaust on there. :D

this and a header are my favorite two mods to date...

Jasonf860
10-10-2006, 12:05 PM
Well looks like I will be looking more into the 272 grind then. Have you all tried the Tri-flow grind?

EX-ileAccord
10-10-2006, 01:32 PM
Is the low end loss noticable? and what did it cost for the wild grind

bobafett
10-10-2006, 02:20 PM
well yeah its noticable. but its worth giving up in my opinion. it all depends how you drive the car.

if you are the kind of person that shifts at 3000-4000 rpm even when you are trying to have a little fun, then a cam is probably not the best mod for you. if you like to wrap the car out and rev it to 6000+ then you will really enjoy the powerband with a cam.

personally i can give up low end for a nice strong topend. other people (like my dad for example) dont truely use topend, and would rather keep power in the 3500-4500 range... in this case a 260 might be better...

with a 272 you dont start feeling 'the pull' until 3000-3500 rpm, but it just gets stronger until redline. :) the car doesnt taper off at 4500-5000 like it does with the stock cam.

i have a stock cam in my built motor and I HATE IT! lol tons of low end but it peters out when i really want/need the power...

LiTtLe xOx BitT
10-10-2006, 02:26 PM
i was quoted $72.50 for a 272, im going to order it when i rebuild the motor.

EX-ileAccord
10-10-2006, 02:26 PM
I wind mine up all the time. I love the red line lol I always have the rpms up so this might be a good mod for me, I just dont want to lose too much bottem end

bobafett
10-10-2006, 03:23 PM
its not too bad, and you don't notice it that much cause as the rpms increase it starts to pull harder, so it is less noticable that it wasnt pulling as hard before. it just makes for a gradually increasing power over the powerband. feels nice.

btw any delta grind should be the same price as any other delta grind, they don't charge more for a more extreme grind (unless perhaps you needed a custom grind - they talked to me about a 272/282 dual profile grind for my turbo setup. :))

Jasonf860
10-10-2006, 06:05 PM
This coming weekend I am gonna give it another go at the damn crank bolt. A reground cam is useless to me if i can't take the damn belt cover off to take off the timing belt! i had a damn 10 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and the damn thing still wouldn't budge! Anybody got any ideas on how to get this off????? It's way overdue for the belt change and I'd like to do the cam at the same time...

EX-ileAccord
10-11-2006, 06:34 AM
272 it is lol. anyone have the phone #?

gfrg88
10-11-2006, 07:23 AM
This coming weekend I am gonna give it another go at the damn crank bolt. A reground cam is useless to me if i can't take the damn belt cover off to take off the timing belt! i had a damn 10 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and the damn thing still wouldn't budge! Anybody got any ideas on how to get this off????? It's way overdue for the belt change and I'd like to do the cam at the same time...


is auto?? make sure its on neutral lol, same thing was happening to me and it was in gear :slap:

bobafett
10-11-2006, 07:34 AM
http://www.deltacam.com/

Toll Free: 1.800.562.5500
[email protected]

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 07:49 AM
272 it is lol. anyone have the phone #?
http://deltacam.com/
the phone # is 1.800.562.5500

EX-ileAccord
10-11-2006, 08:43 AM
Sweet. Thanks guys

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 11:32 AM
Well, just for shits and giggles I called Colt cam today. I talked with Jeff I think his name was for well over 1/2 an hour about the cams for our cars. he really is very knowledgable on the subjest of the A20a. He had me sold on the triflow all the way up to the price tag. Basically, I spoke to him about doing a tri-flow stage 2 with a little more lobe seperation so that it can be run in either a carbed or EFI model. His best price : $205 out the door and that doesn't include me sending my cam to them. Also said that they usually charge an extra $25 for changing the grind specs i.e. the lobe seperation but since I will be running my car in SCCA kart series locally, he is gonna semi-sponsor that and do the increased seperation free. That is as long as I run a "Colt Cams" sticker in my rear window. That is all well and good, and I'm more than sure I'd be happy with the cam based on his input, but it seems cost wise, and everything, I am better off buying the Delta grind. Even with all shipping aside, the 260 or 272 grind will be far less expensive than the Tri-flow we discussed and should still give me a considerable increase. I guess Delta it is.... 272 and I'm ordering it up tomorrow morning!

bobafett
10-11-2006, 12:23 PM
you won't be dissapointed. remember to set your valve lash when you put the cam in. .006" intake, .008" exhuast. and these are cold settings. :D and readjust them after a few days/weeks just to make sure they are still sitting where they should be!

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 03:36 PM
Ok so I lied.:devil: I ordered the cam today! They had a cam in stock so I elected for the exchange. I should have my new cam in within 5 days! Of course I have to wait to the weekend to do it, but Maybe if I am super lucky, I'll get it by Friday.... Doubtful but maybe. So if not, then the following weekend will be time enough for me to tear the car apart and change the cam, timing belt, and I am going to do the front main seal while I'm in there. I'm going to do my best to get my friend over with her digi-cam to take some pics for a front seal how-to since it's not included in the timing belt change how-to. Changing all these goodies, what other gaskets/seals would be a good idea to change while in in there... Camshaft seals, distributor seal? Also, I'd like some opinions on changing out the tensioner pully while I'm in there too. What do you guys think?

lostforawhile
10-11-2006, 04:19 PM
This coming weekend I am gonna give it another go at the damn crank bolt. A reground cam is useless to me if i can't take the damn belt cover off to take off the timing belt! i had a damn 10 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and the damn thing still wouldn't budge! Anybody got any ideas on how to get this off????? It's way overdue for the belt change and I'd like to do the cam at the same time...I took my rocker cover off and took the entire thing,cam and sprocket over to the automotive machine shop here,came off in ten seconds. they have tricks. also I can't remember but isn't it a left hand nut? were you tightning it?
k so I lied. I ordered the cam today! They had a cam in stock so I elected for the exchange. I should have my new cam in within 5 days! Of course I have to wait to the weekend to do it, but Maybe if I am super lucky, I'll get it by Friday.... Doubtful but maybe. So if not, then the following weekend will be time enough for me to tear the car apart and change the cam, timing belt, and I am going to do the front main seal while I'm in there. I'm going to do my best to get my friend over with her digi-cam to take some pics for a front seal how-to since it's not included in the timing belt change how-to. Changing all these goodies, what other gaskets/seals would be a good idea to change while in in there... Camshaft seals, distributor seal? Also, I'd like some opinions on changing out the tensioner pully while I'm in there too. What do you guys think?
__________________
89 Accord lx you can get the timing belt from nappa in a kit with a tensioner,always a good idea to change. also how old is your water pump? it's really easy to change while everythings apart. if you have ever considered a new oil pump,now is the time. cam seal,crank seal, probably a new valve cover seal while it's off.

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 04:39 PM
you can get the timing belt from nappa in a kit with a tensioner,always a good idea to change. also how old is your water pump? it's really easy to change while everythings apart. if you have ever considered a new oil pump,now is the time. cam seal,crank seal, probably a new valve cover seal while it's off.
Ok, I replaced the water pump this past Saturday, Also replaced the valve cover gasket a month ago when I adjusted the valves. Damn thig still leaks though. I already have the new timing belt sitting here waiting, But I'm contemplating the tensioner. I may change it, but on the same token, I can have it all apart in about 20 minutes if it starts making any noise. I do plan on changing the crank seal while I'm in there, and also that stupid hose on the backside of the oil pan that goes up to the engine. WTF is that for anyway? Oil pump huh? I didn't even think of that... Thanks! I think I'll definitely change the cam seals since it will all be out. And since I have never had the dizzy off, is it just an o-ring for a seal on that or is there actually a gasket?

lostforawhile
10-11-2006, 04:51 PM
Ok, I replaced the water pump this past Saturday, Also replaced the valve cover gasket a month ago when I adjusted the valves. Damn thig still leaks though. I already have the new timing belt sitting here waiting, But I'm contemplating the tensioner. I may change it, but on the same token, I can have it all apart in about 20 minutes if it starts making any noise. I do plan on changing the crank seal while I'm in there, and also that stupid hose on the backside of the oil pan that goes up to the engine. WTF is that for anyway? Oil pump huh? I didn't even think of that... Thanks! I think I'll definitely change the cam seals since it will all be out. And since I have never had the dizzy off, is it just an o-ring for a seal on that or is there actually a gasket?
did you put gasket sealer on the corners of the valve cover gasket? thats where it leaks. where it goes from flat into the bearing caps. on the cyl head itself,then set the vave cover on the sealer. don't overtighten it or it will leak also. the hose that goes from the pan up the back side of the engine is for your pcv system. it goes into a liquid vapor seperator on the back of the block,then the vapors are pulled up through the pcv valve into the intake. the dizzy seal is an o ring, there seem to be two different seals,because every time i order one,honda gives me the wrong one. they are cheap,order both. then you've got it. were you talking about your water pump leaking? if it is,run a bead of sealer in the o ring groove,put the o ring in it,smear some more on top of the ring,then stick it in place. it won't leak. sometimes gaskets don't like to seal well on old engines. :) good time to paint some of your engine parts too while they are out. http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55344

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 05:03 PM
Yeah, i checked out your purple stuff... looks great! i'm pretty adept at water pumps, I've changed about 30 or so an my cars and other peoples. i had a Mercury Tracer that used to eat them! I changed that damn thing every 4-6 months for 3 years! Thank god for warranties! I also painted some stuff while it was apart for the pump, and i would have done the timing belt then but I gave up on the crank bolt. I'm getting a better impact driver so there will be no issues this time! My old one in 20+ years old and was originally only a 250 foot lb model. It's probably more like 80 now. the one I'm getting is a 500 lb model so I am confident it will loosen the crank bolt no problem. When i did the valves I used some black RTV on the corners like you said, but it leaks all across the front above the plugs. This time around, I'm RTVing the whole damn thing! Thanks for the heads up on the dizzy seal. I will indeed order both, and that PCV hose, Mine leaks like crazy! Sounds like I have a problem there if it's only supposed to be vapor!

lostforawhile
10-11-2006, 05:11 PM
Yeah, i checked out your purple stuff... looks great! i'm pretty adept at water pumps, I've changed about 30 or so an my cars and other peoples. i had a Mercury Tracer that used to eat them! I changed that damn thing every 4-6 months for 3 years! Thank god for warranties! I also painted some stuff while it was apart for the pump, and i would have done the timing belt then but I gave up on the crank bolt. I'm getting a better impact driver so there will be no issues this time! My old one in 20+ years old and was originally only a 250 foot lb model. It's probably more like 80 now. the one I'm getting is a 500 lb model so I am confident it will loosen the crank bolt no problem. When i did the valves I used some black RTV on the corners like you said, but it leaks all across the front above the plugs. This time around, I'm RTVing the whole damn thing! Thanks for the heads up on the dizzy seal. I will indeed order both, and that PCV hose, Mine leaks like crazy! Sounds like I have a problem there if it's only supposed to be vapor!there will be liquid oil in that hose down near the pan. it seperates out right under the intake and the liquid oil runs back down the hose. thats why sometimes if you overfill the oil,it will smoke. the seperator gets overloaded and drops of liquid oil get sucked up through the pcv valve.

Jasonf860
10-11-2006, 05:16 PM
there will be liquid oil in that hose down near the pan. it seperates out right under the intake and the liquid oil runs back down the hose. thats why sometimes if you overfill the oil,it will smoke. the seperator gets overloaded and drops of liquid oil get sucked up through the pcv valve.
Ah, i see. I know the hose on mine is literalyas hard as a rock so i know the hose can't be sealing at all. I'm just gonna replace it and see what happens. Thanks for th tips though, Learned something new today!

Jasonf860
10-12-2006, 08:18 AM
I asked Scott at Delta about timing with the new cam and here's what he said,
Jason,
The cam will ship today 10/12/06 and you will want to run a little more advance with the modified cam.
Thanks again,
Scott

Just thought it was pertinent info for anyone with a cam or getting one!

HondaBoy
10-12-2006, 01:14 PM
on topic of cam replacement, is it necessary to repalce the rockers and springs? if i get a new cam, i want it to last. but mainly installation will determine that usually, depending on how well you have installed it and what not. so, i was thinking of going for the Delta 272 cam, but would i be happier with the colt? i want mid an top range power mainly. so anything over 3000 rpm is going to be where i want the power to come on.

bobafett
10-12-2006, 01:52 PM
you can inspect the rocker faces when you pull off the rocker assembly, if it doesn't show any scarring or weird wear marks, i would say you would be ok.

as for springs, it sure cant hurt to change out to some newer ones, but unless you have noticed float at high rpms you are probably ok, or if you plan on revving much higher. :)

if you want power from 3000+ a 272 will be a good choice. :)
for reference a 282 brings the power on around 4000. :D but wow does it pull!

HondaBoy
10-12-2006, 03:34 PM
would the 282 duration make for bad fuel mileage over the 272?

gfrg88
10-12-2006, 03:37 PM
i dont think fuel milage changes with these cams, mine did but it was because i loved how it felt revving to redline :D

bobafett
10-12-2006, 05:36 PM
i cant say for sure, cause i only ran that 282 for like 50 miles during my break in, but i would guess that they don't help mileage. i dont think my mileage changed much with the 272, when i had all my vacuum stuff hooked up i could still manage 37mpg freeway....

i have always assume that as a rule, the more aggressive the camshaft, the worse the mileage, but there are exceptions, like the tri-flow profiles which are supposed to help mileage slightly.

Jasonf860
10-20-2006, 02:18 PM
shipped or plus shipping? if it's shipped, that's a wonderful deal. if it's plus shipping, that's a great deal.
Got my cam in yesterday with my invoice. $83 and some change shipped! That is without a core! I have to contact them and see if they want my stock cam or what the deal is. I think they undercharged me. Scott sent me a t-shirt and a few " Delta Cam" stickers. Cool deal. And like Bobafett said, they are REALLY fast there!

MessyHonda
10-20-2006, 02:29 PM
Got my cam in yesterday with my invoice. $83 and some change shipped! That is without a core! I have to contact them and see if they want my stock cam or what the deal is. I think they undercharged me. Scott sent me a t-shirt and a few " Delta Cam" stickers. Cool deal. And like Bobafett said, they are REALLY fast there!

nice...i want one now...lol take pics of the install...i might change mie but im scraed i might screw up cuz its my DD and i cant afford to brake down.

HondaBoy
10-20-2006, 02:47 PM
^ y'all have the same avatar it looks like. lol. anyway, that price sounds good. i'm going to see about getting a cylinder head off another car and having a local shop machine it and whatnot for me. delta may be the way to go. but i want an agressive cam that i'm going to notice. well, tell us how your new cam feels when you put it in.

2oodoor
10-20-2006, 03:58 PM
This coming weekend I am gonna give it another go at the damn crank bolt. A reground cam is useless to me if i can't take the damn belt cover off to take off the timing belt! i had a damn 10 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and the damn thing still wouldn't budge! Anybody got any ideas on how to get this off????? It's way overdue for the belt change and I'd like to do the cam at the same time...
mine came off with a cordless half inch impact driver, 17mm socket, impact driver was one of those goodyear brands from pep boys, el cheapo but it worked great for that and busting off tires without draging out air hoses and crap. I would not put too powerfull of an impact wrench on it though, hellofa mess if you broke it.

DDRaptor
10-21-2006, 06:49 AM
Sweet. Paeco was like $250 thanks for sharing the info.

Jasonf860
10-21-2006, 07:12 AM
Well, I'm in progress and my friend with the digi cam is not here. When she gets here, i'll post pics of the remaining install, whatever is left anyway! I got the crank bolt out with some PB Blaster and a few grunts. No impact driver needed! YAY! I'm about ready to take the belt off and start the cam removal/install. Not bad for an hour of work! I only snapped off the A/C adjusting screw so far! LMAO! No biggie. Probably another 2-3 hours of work to go! I'll update when I can!

Jasonf860
10-21-2006, 08:04 AM
Ok, timing belt is off, rocker assembly and old cam are out, cleaning new cam now ......

Jasonf860
10-21-2006, 08:57 AM
Still no Digi cam! WTF? Oh well.. Cam is IN! Rockers are on and torqued, dizzy is in, timing belt is on and tensioned...

Jasonf860
10-21-2006, 01:58 PM
Ok, she's running! I had to mess w/timing a bit to get her to idle but she's running. Tomorrow I'll be messing with the carb and the timing a bit. It never really idled right so I'm gonna try and fix that.

bobafett
10-22-2006, 12:45 AM
nice!

i am sure u will love it, but post up your thoughts on the power gains/losses, so we can convince more people that cams are one of the best mods u can do for an accord!

Jasonf860
10-22-2006, 03:03 AM
nice!

I am sure u will love it, but post up your thoughts on the power gains/losses, so we can convince more people that cams are one of the best mods u can do for an accord!
I know my timing isn't exactly right at the moment. I ran out of adjustment w/the dizzy. So far, I have it advanced as far as it goes stock and that's still not enough. Makes me wonder if I am off by a tooth on my belt even though I turned the engine around 3 times and it always came back to TDC. Anyway, I broke in the cam and took it for a ride ... BIG difference in power! RPM's climb a lot faster and smoother! The low end loss is barely noticeable, in fact, I may even have more! I could never even chirp the tires before (AUTO) and now they chirp if I floor it off the line!
Today is tuning day. I'm taking off the dizzy and elongating the adjustment holes even more so I have more advance, re-adjusting the valve lash, and I am going to mess w/my carb and hopefully figure out the damn choke issue.. I'll post more after the tune....

MessyHonda
10-22-2006, 11:53 AM
nice jason...keep up the good work:thumbup:

Jasonf860
10-22-2006, 12:28 PM
nice jason...keep up the good work:thumbup:
Thanks! Got the valves adjusted... Man were they WAY off after the run in! I set them dead smack on .006 and .008 when I installed the cam. They were at .009 and .012 respectively! I adjusted them back down and things got better from there. I elongated the dizzy adjusting slots and got another 4-6 deg. of advance. I also worked on the carb a bit. I brought the idle up to normal range (It dropped a lot after the cam install), and figured out why my choke is not working! Not sure yet if there is vacuum to it or not, but there is some kind of vacuum choke unloader on the front passenger side of the carb. It's not working at all so my car is always on choke! No wonder why it runs like shit when it's cold! I hooked it up to a vacuum pump and brought it up to pressure, I was able to see the pressure drop rather quickly! That tells me the diaphram inside is no good! even if it's getting vacuum, it can't pull the choke open cause it leaks right by the damn thing! Anyway, the car is running sweet (at least when it's warm!) I could feel the dirt/dust in the oil when I slapped it all back together today so I also changed the oil today too. All that dirt was from it being so damn windy yesterday while the valve cover was off. i also was able to get my EFI valve cover painted. It's curing in the oven right now! next week when I do my "final' valve lash adjustment before winter, I will swap it on.
Hooray for getting all the work done I wanted to before winter!

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 04:12 AM
Ok.... Hmmm .... looking back at my work this weekend.... and how much advance I'm running...... I think I may be off a tooth on my timing belt . :uh:But what way am I off :confused:

bobafett
10-23-2006, 08:02 AM
I had a heck of a time getting the timing belt on the proper way. the car would seem to run ok, but I would have like 20 degrees of static advance lol, so i would be running like 32 degrees with the diaphram pulling more!!!

the trick that I found is this:

- get the flywheel to tdc and and the cam gear to tdc. u can leave them alone for a bit.
- make sure tensioner is loose
- pull the 'front' part of the belt onto the gear, you can probably only get it half way on like this.
- pull up as hard as you can and slide the back half of the belt on, using the tensioner to pull more slack out of the belt so you can slip it on.
- only turn the cam gear 3 teeth
- tighten the tensioner
- manually turn it over to make sure they are still in sync
-try it out.

the part i always screwed up was turning the engine over a couple times before i tightened the tensioner. i am not sure why this seems to be so critical. but it seems to make a big difference. :)

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 08:37 AM
I had a heck of a time getting the timing belt on the proper way. the car would seem to run ok, but I would have like 20 degrees of static advance lol, so i would be running like 32 degrees with the diaphram pulling more!!!

the trick that I found is this:

- get the flywheel to tdc and and the cam gear to tdc. u can leave them alone for a bit.
- make sure tensioner is loose
- pull the 'front' part of the belt onto the gear, you can probably only get it half way on like this.
- pull up as hard as you can and slide the back half of the belt on, using the tensioner to pull more slack out of the belt so you can slip it on.
- only turn the cam gear 3 teeth
- tighten the tensioner
- manually turn it over to make sure they are still in sync
-try it out.

the part i always screwed up was turning the engine over a couple times before i tightened the tensioner. i am not sure why this seems to be so critical. but it seems to make a big difference. :)
Well, i am going to verify tonight if I am infact out of sync by lining up the TDC mark in the timing hole and checking to se if the cam mark is good. If they are, then I guess I am dead on. If not, then my suspisions are correct..... I'll know by tonight. I wonder if I could slip the belt from the cam gear, and turn it so it lines up without taking it all back apart.... HMM

shepherd79
10-23-2006, 08:47 AM
i don't even know why you guys take the belt off the cam gear.
I always zip tie the belt to cam gear. Loosen up the tention belt and slide the gear of the cam. hold it in the air with some wires attached to the top of the hood. this way the bottom won't change.
when you put the new cam back on, the cam gear will have to go only in one direction. put everything back, tighten and adjust the valves.
the whole thing may take 20 minutes, adjusting the valves probably 30 minutes. I like to do them right from the start.

bobafett
10-23-2006, 08:53 AM
:) that would work too. my hood was off when I was working on mine haha...

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 09:04 AM
i don't even know why you guys take the belt off the cam gear.
I always zip tie the belt to cam gear. Loosen up the tention belt and slide the gear of the cam. hold it in the air with some wires attached to the top of the hood. this way the bottom won't change.
when you put the new cam back on, the cam gear will have to go only in one direction. put everything back, tighten and adjust the valves.
the whole thing may take 20 minutes, adjusting the valves probably 30 minutes. I like to do them right from the start.
I was due for a timing belt so I did both at the same time. I didn't get to do the front main though since no where had one in stock when it came time for my change. If I am off by a tooth or so, I might order a seal and take it all back apart.

shepherd79
10-23-2006, 10:47 AM
you don't have to take it all apart just to adjust the timing belt.
If you are tooth off, remove the plastic cam gear cover. put the engine into TDC. look at the flywheel mark. make sure it is line up with T mark. now go back and check the cam gear. top should be pointing to the top and two side notches should line up with cylinder head. if it doesn't line up. loosen the tention on the belt. slide the belt of the gear and rotate the crank pulley with a wrench. for about one tooth in opposide direction you want the cam gear to go. slide the belt back on and put everything back to TDC. that should fix it.
You should adjust the valves after a week of driving. I wait about 2-3 weeks.
If you are trying to advance ignition with distributor, and your vacuum advance diaphram doesn't hold the vacuum. You won't get correct reading on timing. i would say that every single distributor that i came across, couldn't hold the vacuum.
The other thing you may want to check the advance springs inside the distributor. If they are worn out, you won't be getting proper timing at the proper time.

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 11:23 AM
you don't have to take it all apart just to adjust the timing belt.
If you are tooth off, remove the plastic cam gear cover. put the engine into TDC. look at the flywheel mark. make sure it is line up with T mark. now go back and check the cam gear. top should be pointing to the top and two side notches should line up with cylinder head. if it doesn't line up. loosen the tention on the belt. slide the belt of the gear and rotate the crank pulley with a wrench. for about one tooth in opposide direction you want the cam gear to go. slide the belt back on and put everything back to TDC. that should fix it.
You should adjust the valves after a week of driving. I wait about 2-3 weeks.
If you are trying to advance ignition with distributor, and your vacuum advance diaphram doesn't hold the vacuum. You won't get correct reading on timing. i would say that every single distributor that i came across, couldn't hold the vacuum.
The other thing you may want to check the advance springs inside the distributor. If they are worn out, you won't be getting proper timing at the proper time.
This is basically what I'm gonna attempt tonight. I was gonna pull the valve cover off anyway to put on my efi one. I figured I've put almost 200 miles on it since Saturday night so it should be fine to adjust the valves now. As for my dizzy, when I had the vacuum pump and gage out to check my choke pull-off, I checked out the vacuum advance thingy too. It held fine. I left it for 1/2 hour and it bled down slightly. No big deal.

snoopyloopy
10-23-2006, 01:31 PM
hmm...maybe i'll pick me up a cam after all even though i'm getting a b20a presently. sounds like some good gains, especially if you can chirp the tires in a carbed auto.

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 01:57 PM
Well, it's official! I was off by 2 teeth on the cam gear. After consulting w/ the haynes manual, the chiltons manual, and the online manual, I figured out that the white mark with the T next to it is in fact TDC on the crank. Mine was lineed up w/the red mark and that is the timing mark. I am putting it back together now... basically just the valve cover and I'm done. Now to reset my timing and idle after all this stupidity! Guess what, I just got:Owned: By a honda timing belt! I'll post after all is said and done with how much better she runs.

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 04:12 PM
So I got the timing all set and adjusted down my idle again. Car runs soooo smooth now. I must say that when the power comes on, it REALLY comes on. She seems about normal in low-mid operation but anything around 4000+ and the engine just screams! You can honestly hear the difference! I won't say that the car is "fast" now, but I will say that it was the BEST $83 I ever spent on my car. I have a few more things to tune in... i gotta get that damn choke fixed so I stop loading up the plugs and then I will install new ones with a larger gap. I may actually advance the timing slightly more, I am just a hair over stock specs... We'll see. The cold is aproaching rapidly here so i think i am nearing the end of my modding for the winter.

bobafett
10-23-2006, 04:25 PM
yeah your car will like a bit of timing advance with the more agressive cam. :) sounds like your good to go now!

89l_x_i
10-23-2006, 05:00 PM
Other than the cam do you have any other mods?

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 05:09 PM
yeah your car will like a bit of timing advance with the more agressive cam. :) sounds like your good to go now!
Indeed it really does like the advance in timing. i feel i can go even farther but i wanted to be conservative for the first week or so, See how it runs ya know? i have some valve clacking so i know the valves need their adjustment... After that i am sure she'll really screem!

Jasonf860
10-23-2006, 05:10 PM
Other than the cam do you have any other mods?
There is a full list in my garage.... Check it out.