suggestions on N/A build

[EX-ileAccord]

I'm going to do a n/a build over the winter, as of right now I'm doind a rebuild with a 272 cam, b16 or b18 intake manifold, stiffer motor mounts, header, stiffer valve springs( lude springs work I think, correct me if im wrong), and I already have a full 2inch exaust and cai any suggestions on what else I can do?

[Legend_master]

I'm going to do a n/a build over the winter, as of right now I'm doind a rebuild with a 272 cam, b16 or b18 intake manifold, stiffer motor mounts, header, stiffer valve springs( lude springs work I think, correct me if im wrong), and I already have a full 2inch exaust and cai any suggestions on what else I can do?


YOu need to bump the compression on an NA build. You could have the head milled a little for a slight bump in comp, but your best bet would be higher compression pistons. You should also upgrade the TB when you get the b16-18 manifold.

[bobafett]

and personally i reccomend a 2.5" exhaust if, even if you are NA. :D

[rjudgey]

Depends on the quality of the exhaust, i presume your running a pacesetter header, if so makes no difference if you are 2" or bigger as the collector is only 2" best thing to do is to get them to cut it off and weld a 2.25" pipe onto that and then have a custom system put on with 2.25" pipe and mandrel bends if they can't do mandrel bends then go for 2.5" which will end up 2.25" as they bend the pipes. Might be possible to fit a pacesetter system which is 2.25" and then mod the down pipe to fit the system better.
I would go with Eagle rods and the forged pistons unless you are going to physically limit the revs on the engine to 7k rpm or if you use ARP bolts set the limit to 7.5k any higher for more than 30k miles your conrods will try to escap throught the block i know this as i have lots of holes in my engine!!! It aint' pretty!!!
Increasing CR ratio is very important but it's a combined effort of everything being done at the same time and then being properly tuned realistictly with stock Fuel system youronly going to get about 150bhp roughly maybe bit more maybe bit less so if your going for it properly with cam, increase CR ratio, headwork etc. you really need to ditch the PGMFI system and then go aftermarket or OBD1.

[EX-ileAccord]

I thought about the obd1 conversion, did any one finsh it yet?, and is it worth the hassel?

[MessyHonda]

I thought about the obd1 conversion, did any one finsh it yet?, and is it worth the hassel?

some ppl have done it...they have like a 18 page thread on it....time for you to check it out...lol....i would do it but im not sure if its smog legal in my gay ass state.

[EX-ileAccord]

theres no smog or emmisions where I live so I guess im goin for it
*sigh* /me reaches for the reading specticles

[A20A1]

2" is okay after the header and you can then up the diameter a 2.25" or 2.5" for the cat and any pipe after the cat.
If you don't run a cat then up the diameter where the cat would normally go. keep the 2" pipe as straight as possible though. if you can, put the flex pipe closer to the oil pan that way you have a longer uninterrupted straight section of 2" pipe before it exits in to the larger diameter pipe.

2" to keep the velocity up then the 2.25"-2.50" for the added flow. It wont be perfect cause you're not really tunning any lengths but you certainly don't need 2" all the way to the rear... where the header meets the cat should be long enough.

[guaynabo89]

some ppl have done it...they have like a 18 page thread on it.....

bwaaaaaaaahahahahahaha!

Actually theres two threads on it. One is the "other ecm options" thread and the other one is "project 4g distributor"

Ive completed the swap and it only feels like a good tune up. The good thing is that it opes the door for ecu tuning and cmplete stand alone efi systems.

A good n/a build will run you lots of cash. With good hp goal figure on good rods, pistons, and hardware for the block. bumping up the compression to about 11 to 1. port the head with maybe larger valves stiffer springs and a good cam. plus the tuning to go with it.

all that alone will probably run you upwards of about 3 grand maybe more depending how far you go.

[rjudgey]

I wouldn't bother with OBD1 or other stock Honda, just go with an aftermarket setup easier to install and ultimately better. You can do Megasquirt if your on a tight budget or if you have money to burn electromotive is one of the best available. Takes a bit of work to rig up all the sensors and the crank trigger disk but once it's done your set for life and then it's just a laptop to plug in and re-map each time. Or even a PDA will do it too.
I would spend the money on the Block first get good rods and pistons and bearings. Just do a basic Head re-build with minor headwork to clean up ports, match manifolds, which can be done by yourself if handy with a dremel, and then get a machine shop to do 3 angle or better valve seats and back cuts to the valve heads, with pistons just have them flat top with only 3 valve reliefs in each one with two obviously on the other side for the exhuast valves that are on the opposite sides, then have .5-1mm taken of the head that will raise the cR ratio up nice and high. With a basic cam like a 275 degree all round with 10mm lift or a Colt Stage 2 then your set.

[EX-ileAccord]

Do you have any info on this electromotive stuff?

[rjudgey]

http://www.directignition.com/

[guaynabo89]

I wouldn't bother with OBD1 or other stock Honda,

Actually the point of going to an obd1 system is basicly so you can reprogram the ecu's with programs like crome etc. Depending no your resources this can be had for the same or less than megasquirt and still have oem reliability.

[AccordEpicenter]

Actually the point of going to an obd1 system is basicly so you can reprogram the ecu's with programs like crome etc. Depending no your resources this can be had for the same or less than megasquirt and still have oem reliability.

I agree. IF you wanna make good power for fair money, you cant beat turbo over NA, NA builds are always more expensive for the same amount of power.

[bobafett]

mainly I just want computer controlled spark maps. :) and the only way to get that is an electronically controlled dizzy. whether its on obd1 swap with crome, or a fancy standalone, you still need a dizzy to be controlled by the computer and not by the vacuum. :D

[rjudgey]

With a standalone you won't have a dizzy as all the best ones are Crank fired which is the best setup all new cars have crank fired ignition setup, you won't ever need another cap or rotor ever and if your running really mad boost or high CR ratio it really helps with the accuracy of the timing letting you get the settings perfect to get the last 1 or 2 bhp out of the engine before it detonates and destroy's itself!!

[guaynabo89]

With a standalone you won't have a dizzy as all the best ones are Crank fired which is the best setup all new cars have crank fired ignition setup, you won't ever need another cap or rotor ever and if your running really mad boost or high CR ratio it really helps with the accuracy of the timing letting you get the settings perfect to get the last 1 or 2 bhp out of the engine before it detonates and destroy's itself!!


what systems are you talking about? While I agree that crank trigered and coil on plug is highly acurate, it by no way is cheap. Plus the extra fabrication on the picup for the wheel and coil on plug would be more than enough to turn some people away.

the porpouse of going obd1 is cheap tuneability. After his na buid i really doubt he'll have 1000+ to spend on aftermarket ecu's.Sadly money is what holds all of us back.

[rjudgey]

Megasquirt is crnak triggered and the kits are pretty cheap, all you need for the crank trigger is to weld a disk to the crank pulley and mount a sensor on to it, it's not that hard maybe a bit trickier is you have P/S, A/C fitted but still possible, on a B20A it's bit more tight as there's less space than on a A20 but it's still the best way forward and also get's rid of all the Honda sensors which cost lots more money compared to GM or Ford ones which Megasquirt uses instead. And from the sounds of things the guy doesn't look like he's doing things on a tight budget anyways with uprated rods forged pistons etc. Generally when someone wants to do a proper build there not not on a tight budget unless it's just to refeash a worn out engine.