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Site
08-09-2002, 10:02 AM
My DCOEs just came in! Won them on Ebay. They have some linkages included and an intake manifold from some Mazda. Man, they're dirty, and much bigger than I expected. Phydeaux, yours were used and now they're clean and shiny - what did you use to clean them? I have a rebuild kit on it's way form a guy in Italy - includes 2 float bolts and filters plus the gaskets and pinvalves. I am SO looking foward to having these on my car. Now comes the intake manifold fun!
A pic of them:
http://www.riverhillscc.com/lighthouse/DCOEs.jpg

Vanilla Sky
08-09-2002, 10:11 AM
dammit man, you into a good upgrade, eh? i've never seen them in action, but i'd say they make a huge diff over the stock carb

Derick

BTW, good find

shepherd79
08-09-2002, 10:26 AM
Lucky bastard.
well, you will have to update us on this project.

A20A1
08-09-2002, 12:45 PM
Hardcore!!! :D

CrVtecKid
08-09-2002, 01:58 PM
Are those just like individual throttle bodies? Sorry i don't know jack about carurated engines.

PhydeauX
08-09-2002, 08:55 PM
Mine aren't really clean and shiney. The only thing thats shiney on them are the air horns mainly because they are new. I cleaned them up with some 2+2 carb cleaner to get the grime off, but they are aluminum so you can polish them up to a mirror shine if you really want to. Looks like you have the cold start valves so you'r going to have to build a box around the carbs if your going to keep with the turbo.

andy

Site
08-09-2002, 11:21 PM
Eek. Looks like the cold start circuits are gonna be a hassle when it comes to starting up the car. This is ripped from http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm:

"Allow the float chambers to fill if you have an electric pump, this should take about 5-10 seconds, fully depress the accelerator rapidly four times, then on a light throttle, turn the engine over, if it does not start immediately, repeat the procedure three times. The engine should fire, but may need 'nursing' for a minute or two before it will idle, gentle prodding of the accelerator should keep it alive long enough for it to warm up. If the engine does not fire within three attempts, then try five or six pumps. If this does not work, depress the accelerator fully and hold it open while turning the engine over for 5 to 15 seconds, then close the accelerator and try again."

Bah, to have a twin carbed 3Gee is worth it!

Site
08-31-2002, 09:02 PM
I've found a machine shop that also specializes in aluminum welding about 45 mins away from me that's willing to do my intake manifold for the DCOEs. I'm going to give them the Mazda dual sidedraft manifold that came with the carbs and the stock A20A1 manifold - they'll chop, machine & join the two. I meet with a tech on Tuesday to talk about the project. These guys have quite an operation - a machine and welding shop specializing in aluminum with over 20 employees. He said a ballpark figure is $150. Not bad - can't buy a new sidedraft manifold for that, let alone a custom. Sweet.

Took one of the DCOEs completely apart tonight (by the way, if you're gonna mess with DCOEs or DHLAs, you must get Des Hammil's powertuning book). Cleaned all the parts - these carbs have had some real use, but they clean up well. They're built to last, it seems. I was concerned about breaking stuck parts while disassembling the carb, but the book I mentioned above guided me through the tough parts. Tomorrow I'll reassemble it using all new gaskets, needle/seat assemblies, replace the fuel filters.

I was a bit worried about the throttle plates not opening smoothly on this first one. They were gummed up and didn't snap back to the closed position well when I would move them manually. After a good cleaning they operate very well. The other carb is cleaner - the throttle plates open and close smoothly, so no worries there.

I'm so pumped about getting these things installed. Can you believe that performance shops charge $140+ per carb to clean and rebuild DCOEs? That's nuts. I think I may throw up a website and have my own DCOE rebuild service. I can easily underbid the quotes I got.

The conversion goes well, so far. No complaints yet, just fun!

1988starter
09-01-2002, 11:18 AM
Congrats man good luck

POS carb
09-01-2002, 12:16 PM
It's nice to see people doing REAL custom work!! :super: Go kill some tegs.

Site
09-19-2002, 06:23 AM
Thought I'd post some pics of progress on the 40 DCOEs conversion so far. The pics aren't the best quality - they're stills from an old single chip Sony DV cam:

Here's a DCOE taken apart and ready to be cleaned and rebuilt:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_01.jpg

Here's a top view of the carb with all the parts removed:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_02.jpg

A view of the throttle plates. I removed, cleaned and repacked the bearings:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_03.jpg

A pic of a cleaned and rebuilt DCOE:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_04.jpg

Man, this stuff is phat. It has tray inside to dip the parts:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_05.jpg

Site
09-19-2002, 06:23 AM
Stock throttle cable bracket screaming to be modified so it can open up on some real power :) :
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_06.jpg

Custom sidedraft fresh from the welding & machine shop:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_07.jpg

Hmmmm . . . this is gonna need some porting for sure:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_09.jpg

Another view of the manifold with a very familiar flange:
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_10.jpg

It begs me, "Give me sidedrafts, yo!":
http://www.rockthelighthouse.com/dcoe_conv/DCOE_CONV_11.jpg

Still to do:
Plug some lines.
Port the manifold.
Tap in the brake booster.
Mount the carbs to the manifold.
Run the fuel lines.
Hook up the throttle cable.
Pray.
Cuss.
Stuff I'm forgetting.
Get my car running again! I'm dying to try out my new tires and feel the diff the sidedrafts make!

PhydeauX
09-19-2002, 08:25 AM
I dunno if its just the way I'm looking at it, but it doesn't look like that manifold has the necessary tip in it.

It should be like this:

http://68.81.205.135:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_side.jpg

The carbs need to be parallel to the ground, or within 5° of it when they are mounted to the engine.

andy

Site
09-19-2002, 08:58 AM
I chose to go with a 10 deg tip instead of 15. Some reading and conversations with DCOE users has lead me to believe that the DCOEs are at optimum when they have a 5 deg upward tilt. One reason is that when the engine accelerates aggressively, it tilts back some. A slight tilt up assures that the DCOEs don't tilt below zero deg. One person (who has DCOEs mounted on her race cars and has written numerous articles about the carbs) told me that 5 degrees is best, anything beyond that is un-useable, anything below that to 0 deg is useable, negative tilt is un-useable. I decided to give the 5 degree tilt a try.

By the way, Phydeaux, thanks so much for thoroughly posting your progress when you did you manifold. Without your pics and comments, I don't think I could have gotten this made.

1989 DX R
09-19-2002, 10:54 AM
Wow, nice job! I'm thinking of doing this maybe next spring.

shepherd79
09-19-2002, 12:25 PM
shit that looks sweet, :)
man, i can't wait till my birthday, i am gonna ask my parents to buy me weber.

A20A1
09-19-2002, 05:25 PM
Lookin good. :D

Site
10-08-2002, 04:23 AM
I finallly put the DCOEs in last night. Installed the manifold with the carbs already attached. Ran the vacuum lines (Funstick - I tapped 3 runners for braking power and 1 runner for the PCV breather box coming from the bottom of the block - thanks for the advice!) Ran the fuel lines. Attached the throttle cable. Had my wife push the accelerator to the floor while I checked the throttle plates. Attached a return spring to the throttle linkage to ensure that the throttle plates close when I let off the accelerator. Adjusted the idle screws for an initial startup. Gave everything a "2nd over" to see if I was forgetting anything.

Then, I got in the car and proceeded with the "cold start" procedure as outlined in http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm (one of three writings that I have kept close to me throughout the conversion).
1. Fill carb bowls with fuel by turning on electric fuel pump. I did this by turning the ignition on and off 4 to 5 times.
2. Push all the way down on the accelerator and let off quickly 4 times.
3. Start the engine while mildly depressing the accelerator.
4. If that doesn't work, try it 2 more times.
5. If engine still doesn't start, push accelerator all the way down and turn the engine for 5-10 seconds.
6. Try it all again.

Well, after trying this for 20 mins the car wouldn't start. The battery was dying and I was losing hope. I took a break for a few mins, then went back out to the garage, went through steps 1-3 and . . .

It started!

Man, PhydeauX is right, these things have a MEAN growl and I move up and down the RPMs easily. I woke the kids up :D

I took it out for a drive after adjusting the idle. You can really feel it pull strongly when the throttle plates begin to open wide around 3500 RPMs. In fact, it has strong pull throughout my current RPM range. Now I need a new clutch . . . oh, and an aluminum flywheel, and a cam, and exhaust, and a 1st gen Integra tranny, and . . . LOL.

I am SO stoked!

Here's the total cost of my conversion:

$221.35 - 2 used DCOE's from Ebay. Came with a manifold (not for our cars, but I used parts of it for the custom manifold), 40mm airhorns, throttle linkages, softmounts, and a ton of other parts the guy didn't know what to do with - many of which I used.

$250 - Custom sidedrafts manifold made to my specs by 73rd Street Tool and Die in Cincinnati, OH.

$25 - DCOEs rebuild kit from a guy in Italy who lives across the street from a performance shop - btw, he collects Maseratis (nice hobby).

$10 - Cold Valve Blanking Plates from RaceTEP.com. Necessity if your DCOEs come with the cold start valves - they suck.

$70 - 2 used 3 inch K&N DCOE Air Cleaners from Todd Walrich at wolfcreekracing.com.

Total cost of DCOEs conversion: $576.35 and about 5 weeks of work. Worth every dime and minute!

I'll post some pics soon.


---
Key words to aid in search results:
weber dcoe DCOE dual carb carburetor conversion manifold custom intake
---

87accordlxi
10-08-2002, 04:26 AM
awesome! glad it worked out so well. :flash:

Site
10-08-2002, 04:26 AM
My thanks goes out to the following people for helping me make this project a success!

PhydeauX (3Geez)
Justin Cheatwood
Brian Waters
Funstick (3Geez)
Marc49 (3Geez)
A20A1 (3Geez)
accordSi (3Geez)
OldSchoolSwap (3Geez)
88TurboAccord (3Geez)
TeriAnn Wakeman from www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/
Todd Walrich from www.WolfCreekRacing.com
Ingemar Lampa from www.tassenet.net
Wayne from www.ChipWizards.co.uk
Paul Tegler from www.Teglerizer.com
Des Hammill
73rd Street Tool and Die (Cincinnati)
Everyone on 3Geez.com

PhydeauX
10-08-2002, 08:29 AM
Nice. Glad to hear you got it running. You only hooked up the pcv to one cylender and its not messing with your mixture at all? You really only needed to hook the brake booster up to one runner, it makes more then enough vacuume.

andy

Grant2k
10-08-2002, 08:44 AM
that's awsome that you got that done. i can't wait to see some pictures. so when do you want to come do mine?

1988starter
10-08-2002, 08:46 AM
That is awesome.

POS carb
10-08-2002, 09:02 AM
lol... "I'd like to thank God, my parents, my wife..." :lol

locknload68
10-08-2002, 11:06 AM
Glad to hear you got it working! We'll have to meet sometime since you're in Cinci and I'm in Dayton. Good luck with everything.

doug
10-08-2002, 11:34 AM
carb size venturi size
40 24-36mm
42 24-34mm
45 28-40mm
48 40-42mm
48/50SP 42-46mm
55SP 46-48mm

what carb size/venturi size are you working with?

Site
10-08-2002, 11:49 AM
PhydeauX wrote: "You only hooked up the pcv to one cylender and its not messing with your mixture at all?"
-Yeah, just one cylinder and it seems to be running fine. It's idling very smoothly. If I remember correctly, it was only tapped into one runner in the stock setup, too. I think it was tapped into the 3rd cylinder (counting from the cam gear). I could be wrong, though.

Phydeaux wrote: "You really only needed to hook the brake booster up to one runner, it makes more then enough vacuum."
-I know that most sidedraft manifolds have a brake booster tap in the 1st runner. But, I've also heard that the A20A doesn't have great vacuum. I talked to Brian Waters, a local Honda mechanic and a friend of mine, and he recommended the 3 runners for braking, 1 runner for PCV setup. Funstick also recommended tapping multiple runners for braking vacuum.

I just didnt want to take the chance of having to remove the manifold once it was installed - so I tapped them all. LOL.

"Tap them all, let the DCOEs sort it out." That's my motto :lol

Grant2K wrote: "that's awsome that you got that done. i can't wait to see some pictures. so when do you want to come do mine?"
-LOL. Man, you don't want me in your engine for a month! I went nutz and just started tearing stuff out. If it looked like a vacuum line - I yanked it. Power steering fluid and coolant were everywhere! LOL!

POS Carb wrote: lol... "I'd like to thank God, my parents, my wife..."
-Loser! :flip: LOL.

locknload68 wrote: "We'll have to meet sometime since you're in Cinci and I'm in Dayton."
-That would be cool. If anyone want to visit and check out the setup, just drop me a message and we'll hook up.

doug wrote: "what carb size/venturi size are you working with?"
-I have size 40 DCOEs with 30mm main venturis (chokes). I want to get 32 or 34mm chokes eventually. Basically, you pick the size choke you need for your engine type and then match the DCOE size with it. 40 DCOEs are a great size for power in our 2.0L single cam engines.

shepherd79
10-08-2002, 11:57 AM
nice,
hey how much would it cost me if "73rd Street Tool and Die (Cincinnati)" would make the intake for me?
thanks.

Site
10-08-2002, 12:09 PM
shepherd79 wrote: "hey how much would it cost me if "73rd Street Tool and Die (Cincinnati)" would make the intake for me?"
-I asked them that in case anyone from the board wanted a sidedrafts manifold. It would be around the same cost - maybe more. They gave me a price up front and it was a bit more work than they counted on. I paid $250 for mine. I gave them these parts along with some drawings and instructions:
1. stock intake manifold from A20A1
2. Mazda DCOEs manifold
3. Aluminum tubing

Basically, I supplied all the parts. They machined the manifolds, shaped the aluminum tubes and welded it all together to my specs. I think they'd do it again for $300 or less.

If you're serious about it, I can talk to them. Email me.

Sean
10-08-2002, 02:31 PM
good to hear. if you want to kow more about the teg tranny setup get in touch with andy or myself.

87accordlxi
10-08-2002, 02:44 PM
hey site, what did you end up doing with supporting the weight of the carbs?

A20A1
10-08-2002, 04:30 PM
I'd love to see some pics. :D

Site
10-08-2002, 04:38 PM
87accordlxi wrote: "hey site, what did you end up doing with supporting the weight of the carbs?"
-I remember talking with you about it at the meet. I was concerned about the weight of the carbs on the manifold. You agreed. So here's what I did . . . nothing! LOL. I talked to PhydeauX about it and his welder told him the welds were strong and not to sweat it. Eventually I'll add some support from the top. I have some ideas.

A20A1 wrote: "I'd love to see some pics."
-Tomorrow! Don't expect too much, though. I'm not much into "pretty," just functional. I can hear the talk now . . . "Hey, that one piece looks like he did it with a hacksaw. I think it would cut me if I touched it."

A20A1
10-08-2002, 04:46 PM
Originally posted by Site

-Tomorrow! Don't expect too much, though. I'm not much into "pretty," just functional. I can hear the talk now . . . "Hey, that one piece looks like he did it with a hacksaw. I think it would cut me if I touched it."

I don't mind, I'm all for function over form... :flash:

PhydeauX
10-08-2002, 07:52 PM
I made mine with a hacksaw (well sawzall) and a hammer, there is nothing wrong with that. You can call up Pierce Manifolds (www.piercemanifolds.com) and they can get you some pre cut DCOE flanges so you don't need to hack up another manifold. That'll run you about $80 or so, unless you can get a realy good deal on the manifold then thats the way to go.

andy

Sean
10-08-2002, 09:49 PM
hmmm me thinks its time for a indvidual runner efi intake with 4 TB's

PhydeauX
10-08-2002, 10:15 PM
http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBody2000_1.htm

A20A1
10-08-2002, 10:31 PM
they have EFI DCOES I think peirce manifolds have them

Site
10-09-2002, 04:45 AM
Pics are here:
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7328

Funstick, individual throttle bodies would be INCREDIBLE!

A20A1 - I've seen the Weber DCOEs EFI-style at PierceManifolds.com, too. Funstick mentioned someone who talked about making normal DCOEs into EFI with some work. Too cool.

MoonScryer
10-09-2002, 05:23 AM
*eyeballs Pierce and TWN's stuff*

OK, one question only, and a dumb one: Will control work on the current ECU? I doubt it, but I might as well ask. If I don't turbo, this is the direction I'm going. I've finally settled it out :D

Grant2k
10-09-2002, 06:58 AM
Originally posted by funstick
hmmm me thinks its time for a indvidual runner efi intake with 4 TB's

openloop motorsports makes those too. but i guess they aren't for an A20.

Sean
10-09-2002, 07:51 AM
i refuse to spend $1200 on something i can make out of aluminium pipe and a few peice of plate steel & aluminium.

PhydeauX
10-09-2002, 08:38 AM
Thats ok, the twm is twice that :p. I still have that one idea I mentioned to you before for quad tb's. I just need to find some wrecks to get throtte bodys from.

andy

A20A1
10-09-2002, 07:13 PM
Hmm what about the coolant lines that used to go the the stock manifold... did you just run a hose from one end to the other... I may have mentioned this a while back tho?
Anyways I think vibration is the main reason I would want to get a lower brace for the carbs.

PhydeauX
10-09-2002, 07:56 PM
Connect the hoses and its fine. I've been running mine with no lower brace for months with no problems.

andy

Sean
10-09-2002, 10:33 PM
andy i do like the dual tb 2bbl idea ?? can it be packeged ?? and stuffing ic pipping is going to be a pita LOL.

Site
10-20-2002, 10:53 AM
Okay, lemme just say this. I didn't realize what I had in my car until just right now. The DCOEs were giving a very noticeable power difference before, but after some adjustments just now - they're amazing!

I just advanced my timing an 1/8 of an inch, maybe less. It took care of the DCOEs backfiring (they were backfiring infrequently at idle). I also installed an Accel coil. I took it out for a drive and WOW! The acceleration is much STRONGER and FASTER from idle to 6000 rpm. At 6500, it pings mad. I'm thinking it could be any (or all) of three things:
1. Accel coil is only good to 6500
2. My chokes are 30mms and I'm leaning out up top (need 34mms)
3. I've advanced the timing a bit too much

I don't even know what the hell causes pinging, but I don't think it's #3 - I barely advanced it. I don't know what "vacuum advance" is either, so I guess I didn't touch it :lol

What causes pinging? Could it be the Accel coil or my leaning out in the high RPMs?

Feels like I'm in a race car. It actually pushes me into my seat some. If my wife weren't recovering from surgery and in need of attention, I wouldn't be typing this. I'd be driving that thing like a BAT OUTTA HELL! Kick arse.

I don't even have upgraded exhaust yet. Or headers. Or anything, really. All I've done to the 3G is DCOEs (PhydeauX I owe you steak! Call me when you're in Cincy.) and the freaking Accel coil. That's it!

Get you some DCOEs.

PhydeauX
10-20-2002, 11:29 AM
Time to get in that group buy yasu is talking about for cams ;).

andy

Site
10-20-2002, 11:32 AM
No kidding! I can't wait to add some more mods and see what this thing feels like. By the way, I turned back the advance a wee bit and hopefully that will take care of the pinging at 6500. I'd give it a run and see, but the kids are nappin', and everytime I start the car it wakes them up! LOL. You hit it on the head, PhydeauX, when you said the DCOEs sound like a vintage race car.

A20A1
10-20-2002, 11:51 AM
what octane do you use? and it could be your vacuum advance... try and hook it up to a single runner. or is that how you have it?

Site
10-20-2002, 11:56 AM
I'm running 91 octane. The gas is old, though, since my car has been sittin in the garage for like 5 weeks during the conversion. I don't have the vacuum advance hooked up. I see 2 little vacuum tubes coming off of the distributor - do I hook both up.

Just drove my car after having turned the advance halfway back to stock. It's not the same. My car likes advance. I want to give it more of what it likes.

Suggestions are welcome.

PhydeauX
10-20-2002, 12:03 PM
You need to find the spot where it still likes it and it doesn't ping. Its trial and error. Hook one of the lines on the advance into the power brake line before the one way valve. 91 you poor soul, we get 93 as standard high test around here, 94 if you want to buy sunoco's ultra.

andy

A20A1
10-20-2002, 02:05 PM
hook up vacuum line #2 the other one is #25, Some hook both together... if you were to connect a distrubutor that wasn't part of the engine and hook up a vacuum line to each port the #2 line would advance the distributor more. so I think that would be all you needed.

Sean
10-20-2002, 09:46 PM
also check the valve lash. the exhaust could be cuasing a bottle neck kepping to much heat in the chamber.this could be cuasing the pinging.also run the vacum advance with the timing set back to stock. it will improve the thottle reponse and you still get good power. youve just about duobled the amount of incoming airflow. so now the heat need to be effectivly removed. andys car pinged like crazy with loose lash and ive had a motor do it to. try checking lash if the valves are clicking at idle its a sure sign it needs to be done. also change the main jet if its lean. i would doubt highly that the engine isnt getting enough air in. you need exhuast to get the air out. i say its time for a header and a cat back to start with. the pacesetter system may not be the best quality but it will help a whole lot. oooooh also make sure the catalytic converter isnt clogged it will make the motor ping for sure. lots of heat will always make the motor ping. think about air in heat out. gotta get the heat out.

DarknessRS
10-20-2002, 10:45 PM
what does DCOE stand for?

Site
10-21-2002, 04:03 AM
From DarknessRS: "what does DCOE stand for?"
-Edoardo Weber developed his first carburetors in the 1920's. The prefix number on the DCOE "40DCOE" is the diameter of the throttle plate (the throttle bore) in mm; DC means "doppio corpo" (double throat); O means "orizzontale (horizontal); E means it is a die cast carburetor; and the number or number and letter suffix is the variation type (mine are both 40DCOE151). You want to be very sure that the DCOEs you purchase are matched pairs. DCOEs won't together correctly if they are different variations.

From Funstick: "also check the valve lash."
-I will. Haven't done that yet. They're not clicking at idle - only when i hit 6500 RPMs. Won't hurt to check them though.

Like you've all mentioned, I need to re-attach the vacuum advance. A20A1, I'll start off with #2, like you said. If that doesn't work, I'll connect both 2 & 25 together.

Funstick: "i say its time for a header and a cat back to start with."
-Yeah, exhaust is next in line on my project list. I wanna go 2.5 inch. I would do headers too, but as I've mentioned, I really want to try to turbo the DCOEs. Since putting that together will probably take several months, I should probably go ahead and get headers for now.

I'm also gonna try running 93 octane. I'm sure I can find a station that carries it here.

Vacuum advance, valve lash check and exhaust. Hopefully that will take care of the ping at 6500 rpms.

oldriceracer
10-21-2002, 04:22 AM
what does octane have to do with it, does the gas you use make ur car have better performance???

Sean
10-21-2002, 03:15 PM
hmmmm i wonder if the clicking at 6500 rpm might be valve float.doe the power fall off like crazy ??

Site
10-21-2002, 03:33 PM
"hmmmm i wonder if the clicking at 6500 rpm might be valve float.doe the power fall off like crazy ??"

I dunno - I was afraid to push it since it was clicking. I'll check tomorrow, though.

I know it was strong all the way up to it. Remember, I'm running a stock cam too.

89AccordHatch
10-21-2002, 06:55 PM
site...where did you get youe DCOE's?

Site
10-22-2002, 04:53 AM
Got mine along with a bunch of other goodies (manifold, throttle linkage, airhorns, more) all off of Ebay. I list where I got everything for the conversion along with prices I paid in this thread:
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7264

A20A1
11-10-2002, 08:19 PM
Anything new?

Grant2k
11-10-2002, 08:27 PM
it wasn't in this thread but saw this one in my email notification so i am gonna throw this out here.... there was talk of the wieght of the DCOEs being a concern somewhere. i was thinking one day, that when you switch to the side drafts, do you end up clearing some room hight wise? if so, would it be possible to use an upper strut brace, like the ones for the LX-i's that us carb guys can't normally buy, and make some bracket on it to support the carbs while getting the double bonus of a strut bar?

A20A1
11-10-2002, 08:34 PM
The strut bar should work with DCOES. but since the engine moves the the brace wont... you will have to use rubber hangers much like the ones used to hang mufflers, it may look ugly though. :(

Site
11-11-2002, 04:49 AM
LOL - fuel line came loose and I suspect that I drove 40 miles with it that way. I thought I was getting very bad fuel economy, even for the DCOEs. :lol

I am talking with an automotive engineering co. in California about making sidedraft manifolds for the 3rd Gen Accord engine. They seem interested - this could be very cool!

I still have yet to re-hook up the vacuum advance. Since I don't plan on taking my revs over 6000 rpm anytime soon, I'm in no rush.

I'm a bit concerned about the performance of the carbs during the winter. I may install some kind of solar powered mini-heater in the engine bay and see if that helps.

The carbs are still performing great! Over the winter, I may try to devise some kind of support for the intake manifold. I still have worries about the weight of the DCOEs.

Thanks for asking!

PhydeauX
11-11-2002, 12:16 PM
Don't worry about the weight. Unless they did a bad job on you manifold then you're fine. I've beat on, raced, driven from philly to maine and back (7.5hrs one way) mostly 80+ mph, etc with mine and not had one single problem.

andy

L3G10N
01-05-2004, 02:32 PM
someone should record the sound of these dual weber setup to make us ear this!

can't wait to put my dual 40dcom on my b20a!

ET2
01-18-2004, 06:42 PM
Hey site what size idle jets are you using I cant seem to find a happy medium for mine thanks