View Full Version : I ordered a remote start alarm for my 89 LX-i.!!! 2256M
I just bought an Ultra Start 2256M for my Accord (coupe), it’s made for manual transmission, so it shouldn’t be an issue. I was gonna get a Compustar remote start system, but honestly I just use my accord as my beater/winter car. I’ve done a few remote start installs (3 or 4 roughly), so I’d like to say that I know what I’m doing. I’ve done a few searches on here looking for the wiring diagram for our cars, and I can’t seem to find them; or at least I cannot find any wiring diagrams that match each other! For example I found one post where there were 2 wiring diagrams posted… one showed that our cars had 3 IGNITION WIRES, and the other only showed 1. Anybody have an actual (correct) wiring diagram for our cars? I guess I could go to my old job @ circuit city and ask them to print out a wire diagram sheet for me if no one has this.
Here’s a picture of what the alarm system appears to look like…
http://www.audiowarehouse.peachhost.com/ct_i2256m.JPG
I just ordered the alarm/remote start system yesterday. So I have no idea what to expect just yet.
If it gets in this week I’ll attempt to install it this weekend, and possibly take some pictures if you guys are interested.
MessyHonda
11-01-2006, 11:39 AM
how much did it run you?
$90 roughly, but it looks like you can get them a bit cheaper ($77+) if you look around.
shepherd79
11-01-2006, 11:43 AM
make sure you leave your car in neutral or it will be one spectacular run. :lol:
MessyHonda
11-01-2006, 11:47 AM
$90 roughly, but it looks like you can get them a bit cheaper ($77+) if you look around.
thats not bad i was planing on geting a 200 buck one that does the same thing...lol silly me...
Nice, im looking at an alarm for my next addition.
thats not bad i was planing on geting a 200 buck one that does the same thing...lol silly me...
well if you got the money and/or the need for a more “advanced” alarm, then that would be your best bet. For me this Accord is just my daily, but I occasionally use it to lug around parts for my MR2. I was originally looking for a remote start & keyless system, But then I found out that their alarm with remote start was only $30 more (than their basic remote start w/ keyless system & no alarm), so I jumped on it. Basically just because I sometimes leave things in the Accord that I would rather not get stolen. Not that the alarm will stop them from doing it, but it’ll at least help deter them away more than without an alarm.
make sure you leave your car in neutral or it will be one spectacular run. :lol:
Well this alarm is designed for manuals... so there is (or there SHOULD be) a sequence that you have to go through before getting out of your car.
Could be as simple as just pulling up your e-brake & activating the remote start to keep the car on until you get out shut the door.
Or
Something more involved like, pulling the ebrake, flipping a switch so many times, activating the remote start, and shutting the door.
in either of those examples, the car has to stay in neutral in order for the car to stay running when you get out.
Also if the car is entered at any time before activating the remote start, it will disengage the remote start, in case the person that entered the car threw the car in gear.
I’m not sure what sequence this alarm requires, but I can post what it is once I get it in.
Sweet, It's to be delivered on Friday!! wOOt!!! I'll keep you guys posted.
Cheeseburger
11-01-2006, 10:42 PM
make sure you leave your car in neutral or it will be one spectacular run. :lol:
ya for real lol... vrOOOm hahah
jonrichert
11-01-2006, 10:57 PM
nice, i've got a compustar 2-way pager alarm on my ride.
Cheeseburger
11-02-2006, 03:55 AM
im going to start to look for a new alarm, but im not to sure if i should get one with remote start. ive heard it mess up the car or something.
reanimator420
11-02-2006, 04:15 AM
remote start ftw, ive always wanted one. i think i am going to look around today for one. they are always nice in winter:)
nice, i've got a compustar 2-way pager alarm on my ride.
I was originally gonna get a “basic” (no 2-way) compustar remote start system alarm, but they were still $150. So I spent $90 bucks on this alarm instead. If it were for my MR2 I would’ve spent the extra money for a 2 way system.
im going to start to look for a new alarm, but im not to sure if i should get one with remote start. ive heard it mess up the car or something.
There are only 2 things that I can think of that can “mess” up your car, both consisting of improper installation (or setup).
-Your starter could eat itself away if the alarm is not setup up to release the starter once your car starts. Or I guess it could somehow fry the starter wires if installed incorrectly(or any wire for that matter)?
-Improper install may mess things up if it’s not installed properly, like no soldered connections, exposed connections or installer not using the proper equipment to test your car for the proper wires (aka multimeter & not a “test light”).
I’ve had a remote start alarm on my MR2 for a couple of years now without a problem so far.
remote start ftw, ive always wanted one. i think i am going to look around today for one. they are always nice in winter:)
Do It!!! :p
shepherd79
11-02-2006, 08:38 AM
i have it on my wife's civic. it is nice in winter or hot days.
89 Accord wiring
Constant (12v) (+)
COLOR: White (W/B) @ Ign Harness
Ignition(+)
COLOR: Black/Yellow Ign Harness
Accessory(+)
COLOR: Yellow/Blue @ Ign Harness
Starter(+)
COLOR: Black/White @ Ign Harness
Tach(-)
COLOR: Blue @ distributor (2pin plug )
Parking lights(+)
COLOR: Red/Black @ Kick Panel – Fuse box
Brake light(+)
COLOR: Green/White @ brake pedal
Door Trigger(-)
COLOR: Black/White @ Fuse Box
Trunk Trigger(-)
COLOR: Green/Black @ Under left side dash
Door lock(-)
COLOR: Green or Blue From DEI lock relay
Door Unlock(-)
COLOR: Green or Blue From DEI lock relay
Clutch bypass(?)
COLOR: N/A @ clutch pedal
Anyone know how are clutch switch works?
*Is it a just an connection breakers switch - requires 2 wires (or more I guess), when clutch is depressed the it makes a connection, when pedal is released it breaks the connection.
*Is it a ground switch? (doubting that it would be a positive switch…)
Oh yeah! one more thing... what's the easiest way to get to the E-Brake wire? I'm definately gonna need that for the remote start.
Okay, well let me start of by saying that the quality of this product is not nearly as good as some of the previous alarms I've installed (mostly DEI alarms), but I pretty much expected this! I'm not really worried, so long as it works!
Their installation instructions are pretty lame (and pretty generic, looks like they use the same instructions for their full line of systems), good thing I have a tad bit of experience under my belt.
The remote start activation sequence is quite simple
While the car is still running:
-pull the hand brake
-press the brake pedal 2 times
(alarm will confirm with 2 flashes/chirps & doors will unlock)
-Remove key (car will stay running)
-Exit the car & close the door(s) within 30 second
The system will disengage the remote start if a door
is opened at any time before remote starting. This can
be prevented if the car is remote started before opening
the door, then manually shutting off the car (via remote)
after the door(s) have been closed.
This particular system from this place only consists of 3 harnesses to wire, but only a few wires for me to hook up in the Accord:
Needed wires willl be in BOLD, unnecessary wires will be in ITALIC and optional wires will be left in PLAIN.
6 PIN HEAVY GAUGE HARNESS:
*Starter output (+)
*Heater/Accessory output (+)
*12 Volt Input (+)30A
*12 Volt Input (+)30A
*Selectable output (+)
(for second Starter, Ignition or Accessory)
14 PIN HARNESS
*Re-arm (-)250ma
*Trunk Release (-)250ma
*Dis-arm (-)250ma
*Ground While Running output (-)
*Siren output (+)250ma
*Parking Brake input (-)
*Door Pin input (+)
*Hood Pin Switch (-)
*Door Pin input (-)
*System Ground input (-)
*Brake light Switch input (+)
*Tach. Input (-)
*Diesel Wait-to-Start input (+ or -)
3 PIN HARNESS (LOCKS)
I'm installing aftermarket actuators, since the coupes didn't have the auto locks as an option. I will also be installing manual lock/unlock switches inside the car, for manual operation.
*Door Lock output (-)250ma
*12v output (+)250ma
*Door Unlock output (-)250ma
ANTENNA 4 PIN CONNECTOR
No need for wiring here :).
MessyHonda
11-04-2006, 12:30 AM
sucks...hope yo get it working. some of the best alarm installations is when the car is stripped and when you have all the wires in front of you
Door lock parts
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/th_IM003141.jpg (http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/IM003141.jpg)
2 Door lock Actuators
DEI 451M Micro Door Lock Relay Module
2 spring loaded buttons (for manual lock & unlock in the car!)
Alarm/Remote Start System
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/th_IM003140.jpg ( http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/IM003140.jpg)
http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/th_IM003138.jpg ( http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l138/heyzeus2003/IM003138.jpg)
Hope you guys dont mind me posting all of this here... Not only is it so that you guys can see what you guys get with this system, but it's to remind me of what I need in case I need to look over some of this stuff tomorrow while I'm installing...
Good night!
sucks...hope yo get it working. some of the best alarm installations is when the car is stripped and when you have all the wires in front of you
Yeah I'd have to agree with you on this... but this is going to be a basic install... the alarm feature is just a plus for me with this system. I'll figure out a place to mount the module and make things look semi neat under the dash.
I'll probably take some pics of some of the install... maybe!
HondaBoy
11-05-2006, 03:48 PM
wish they made it for carbed engines. would need something to pump the gas a bit to make it work. must be nice in the winter. here we dont need to warm up though.
russiankid
11-05-2006, 08:25 PM
wish they made it for carbed engines. would need something to pump the gas a bit to make it work. must be nice in the winter. here we dont need to warm up though.I do, i prefer to drive with the RPM's at 1500 rather then 2000.
I finally got the clutch bypassed (only bypassed through the alarm when remote starting, still need to press the clutch to start). Everything works fine for the most part... except that my accessories wont stay on? I tapped into the correct wire according to the Circuit City wiring diagram & the 12volt diagram... but it seems to only be an ignition wire. there is a white/red wire that is acting like an accessory wire (on in accessory, off while cranking, and on while the car is on). Does this seem right to you guys?
***
well it turns out that the white/red wire is my accessory wire (stereo and heater work with the RS now)... the yellow appears to be a another ignition wire though.
POS carb
12-04-2006, 04:07 PM
Hello,
The ignition switch has 3 basic output needs, Acc, Run, Start.
In the ignition switch, it is set up in a way like 2 separate ignition switches connected to the same key... one switch is fed by the white wire and the other switch is fed by the white/black wire
then the outputs are different. I had issues the first time I installed my alarm kill switch because I chose the wrong power...
I am at work right now but I have the diagram at home, PM me and I'll try and explain it for you... Make sure you use the black/yel wire (Run) to power the alarm because it is powered in the Run AND the Start position, there is an additional Run wire but it looses power when cranking the engine over (Start).
There is a tap in the fuse box for the parking lights that connects with a female speaker terminal. Also, I believe the black/white wire you were looking at in the dashboard is for door trigger is the one for the ignition key light, don't forget that is a timed ground that is only activated by the driver's door. I tapped into the Safety indicator wiring (gauge cluster) for door and trunk (-) and it is activated by all 4 doors.
I can explain this a lot better for you later :)
cubert
12-04-2006, 04:52 PM
ive had a remote start in all my cars...
it involved me walking out to my driveway and me starting the car..
MessyHonda
12-04-2006, 08:04 PM
ive had a remote start in all my cars...
it involved me walking out to my driveway and me starting the car..
lol ghetto remote start....i bet it cost you a shit load...lol
Hello,
The ignition switch has 3 basic output needs, Acc, Run, Start.
In the ignition switch, it is set up in a way like 2 separate ignition switches connected to the same key... one switch is fed by the white wire and the other switch is fed by the white/black wire
then the outputs are different. I had issues the first time I installed my alarm kill switch because I chose the wrong power...
I am at work right now but I have the diagram at home, PM me and I'll try and explain it for you...
Well the alarm/remote start has been in for a while. I used the wiring colors that I posted in post 15 (tested with multimeter), except for my accessory… I’m using the White/Red wires for my accessory because the Yellow wire kept testing as an Ignition (run) wire with my multimeter. I still connected the alarm accessory wire to the yellow wire because multiple sources verified on paper that the yellow wire was my accessory wire, it ended up blowing one of the fuses going to the alarm module. The yellow wire was also not letting my Accessories (radio, heater) come on like an accessory wire should (could be because the fuse blew), but the White/Red wire did turn on my accessories. BUT, recently my heater stopped working with the remote start, but my radio still stays on.
*I would definitely like to check out the wiring diagram that you have, to see what heck is going on under the dash… I’m starting to think that maybe our cars have a second accessory?
Make sure you use the black/yel wire (Run) to power the alarm because it is powered in the Run AND the Start position, there is an additional Run wire but it looses power when cranking the engine over (Start).
Okay this somewhat is confusing me… are you saying I should connect the alarms constant (12v) power wires to the black/yellow ignition(run) wire, and not to the white 12V constant wire? And, wouldn’t that additional run wire function as an accessory, and not as an Ignition(run) wire? In any case, if I were to connect the alarm to either of those Ignition(run) wires, wouldn’t that make the alarm inactive while the key is in the off position?
There is a tap in the fuse box for the parking lights that connects with a female speaker terminal.
My memory is kind of fuzzy hear, but I grabbed my parking light wire from somewhere in the kick-panel area… per the wire guide that I found.
Also, I believe the black/white wire you were looking at in the dashboard is for door trigger is the one for the ignition key light, don't forget that is a timed ground that is only activated by the driver's door. I tapped into the Safety indicator wiring (gauge cluster) for door and trunk (-) and it is activated by all 4 doors.
I can explain this a lot better for you later :)
I just ended up using the dome light wire, which is also (negative trigger) black/white wire and is found behind in the kick-panel under the carpet. It actually works great, because the dome light turns on whenever either of my doors is open. If I were to grab the door pin wires from behind the cluster, wouldn’t one have to diode isolate them, to prevent any feedback going to the either of the doors.
ive had a remote start in all my cars...
it involved me walking out to my driveway and me starting the car..
Personally, it was an $80 well spent for the alarm/remote start which is made for manual trans cars. I could have gotten a remote start alarm for considerably less... Actually! I had an extra 771xv viper remote start alarm that came with my donor car (for my MR2), which I could've used on the accord... but that did not have the manual trans safety feature built into it. So I sold that and got this alarm/remote start system. You can get a similar system for about $50, except it wont have the alarm built into it. It's a small price to pay for a bit of convenience and comfort during the the cold and hot (assuming your A/C works) seasons.
cubert
12-05-2006, 04:22 AM
Personally, it was an $80 well spent for the alarm/remote start which is made for manual trans cars. I could have gotten a remote start alarm for considerably less... Actually! I had an extra 771xv viper remote start alarm that came with my donor car (for my MR2), which I could've used on the accord... but that did not have the manual trans safety feature built into it. So I sold that and got this alarm/remote start system. You can get a similar system for about $50, except it wont have the alarm built into it. It's a small price to pay for a bit of convenience and comfort during the the cold and hot (assuming your A/C works) seasons.
:lol: i know..i was just messin around. I personally wouldnt get one, but if people want em thats cool....
Theres this one guy i work with though that has an f-250, and feels the need to start his truck up at least a half hour before he even gets in it, regardless of what the tempature is. I wanna shove his little pinhead up the tailpipe
POS carb
12-05-2006, 10:17 AM
Okay this somewhat is confusing me… are you saying I should connect the alarms constant (12v) power wires to the black/yellow ignition(run) wire, and not to the white 12V constant wire? And, wouldn’t that additional run wire function as an accessory, and not as an Ignition(run) wire? In any case, if I were to connect the alarm to either of those Ignition(run) wires, wouldn’t that make the alarm inactive while the key is in the off position?
No, I meant the Ignition/ON/Run wire is connected to the Black/Yel. For constant/battery+, tap into either the white or the white/black. Either will work, the power just comes from different fuses.
I had issues with my starter kill because the alarm brings a starter interrupt relay that can be wired one of two ways. I chose the complicated way which grounds the relay through the alarm brain (meaning if you find the brain and unplug it, the starter interrupt relay can't click when you try). However I chose the wrong Ignition/ON/Run wire and every time I would turn the key to start, the wire would lose power and the alarm would shut down, taking the relay signal too, so the starter relay wouldn't click. I moved to the black/yel wire (based on my schematic) and it works perfect, everything hides away with the stock wiring.
I just ended up using the dome light wire, which is also (negative trigger) black/white wire and is found behind in the kick-panel under the carpet. It actually works great, because the dome light turns on whenever either of my doors is open. If I were to grab the door pin wires from behind the cluster, wouldn’t one have to diode isolate them, to prevent any feedback going to the either of the doors.
There is a diode in each courtesy light before the signal reaches the cluster, thats how the indicator can still tell the difference of which door is open. The cluster uses these 4 signals to trip the 1 domelight ground output... which is where I tapped the alarm, your way works the same I guess, I thought you tapped a different black/white wire that grounds the ignition key light)
I was not able to access a pc last night but I should be able to today, I'll keep you posted with the diagrams.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.