PDA

View Full Version : HOW - To's needed on :



gr3k0sLaV
05-07-2002, 06:56 AM
Some suggestions for HoWTO's which I think are needed, which detail

1. How to remove/change the Camshaft
2. How to remove the front & rear bumpers
3. How to install meshes in the front bumper
4. A how to detailing everything needed to Turbo your accord, everything. Not just required parts, but everything from engine rebuilding, transmission stuff, axles, etc.

There's more, I just cant remember what they are...

oooh and in the faq, maybe
something detailing differences between
US, Europe and Australian versions of the accord.

ACCORD EX
05-07-2002, 07:44 AM
man pretty difficult subjects ! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:


MIKE

gr3k0sLaV
05-07-2002, 07:52 AM
Oh, :wtf:


I see :(

Well then, :wtf:


:pimp: Ill be around



They are difficult for me, especially the mechanically one.

Shit ive never even touched an engine. :stupid:

Bullfrog
05-07-2002, 08:34 AM
well you know at our old home over in But F*CKed EGYPT AF...ther was a very nice post on how to do mesh grille....but sa lavie`........i guess someone will post it again....




me
:stupid:
my car

DarknessRS
05-07-2002, 09:29 AM
I'm to lazy to write this all out so ill just post some diagrams
(tell me if the quality is too low and ill rescan it)

DarknessRS
05-07-2002, 09:30 AM
Rear bumper

DarknessRS
05-07-2002, 09:34 AM
I was going to post the camshaft page, but i forgot that you have a different engine :p

gr3k0sLaV
05-07-2002, 09:34 AM
Thanks for that, thats actually pretty helpful, as I want to remove my bumper soon so I can re adjust it.

That should go into the HOWTO section ASAP.

jteuton
05-08-2002, 08:12 PM
i don't know why i'm doing this but.....

1.) Park car in a place where it can rest for a while without being bothered (READ: This takes time and your going to need another ride for a while) Works better if you already have the new cam and don't have downtime.

2.) Pull Parking Brake. Jack up the car under the main sub frame. Put supports behind the wheels in the reinforced areas if you need more reassurance. I'm not responsible if the car falls on you and breaks your back.

3.) Once the front tires clear the ground stop jacking. (Unless your trying to build muscle tone.) Take the driver's side wheel off. Pop the plastic circle cutout out of the plastic shield around the pullies. This exposes the crank bolt.

4.) Pop the hood. Remove spark plug wires from the dist. cap. Label them if you have bad memory or have been drinking lately. Pull the Plug out of the bellhousing so you can view the timing marks.

5.)Remove anything connected to the valve cover and remember where it goes..take a picture if it helps. Now remove the ground strap and three bolts that secure the valve cover. Pop the valve cover off. (if stubborn ...pop the sides and top with a soft blow hammer but don't pry on it where it meets the head.)

6.)Now look at the dist. and mark where the #1 cyclinder tower is on the body of the dist. Go ahead and make the mark all the way down the head. Important so you can put it back and the timing be correct.

7.) Remove the upper cam cover...held on by two screws i believe.
Make note of where the word "top" appears on the cam gear. Now take a ratchet and i believe a 19 mm socket. Turn the pulley on the crank counterclockwise until the top on the cam gear lines up with the studs that you tighten the valve cover too.

8.) The engine should be at top dead center for piston one. But here are a few ways to check. The timing marking in the bellhousing should be on a white "t". The rotor on the dist. (its under the cap) should be pointing at the mark you made for the one plug, and finally the rockers (3) on piston 1 (closest to cam gear) should have free play because the intake and exhaust valves shouldn't be opened.

9.)Go ahead and remove the dist. completely. (make sure you mark it on the head before removal) There are two bolts and one nut that hold it to the head.

10.)Zip tie the cam gear to the belt really good and tight and remove the one bolt that holds the gear to the cam. Slide the gear of the shaft of the cam and be careful not to lose the woodruff key. It should be right on top and it's about the size of your fingernail. Pull off and lay gear out of way.

11.) Loosen all the lock nuts on the rocker arms. Losin the the flat bladed studs until none of the arms hold open any of the valves anymore. Now unbolt the bolts that hold the rocker arm assembly down onto the camshaft. Unscrew the bolts all the way but leave them in the holes to make sure assembly stays together when you lift it up.

12.) After all bolts are free lift assembly straight up and out. Cam should now be fully exposed and readily avavilable for changing out. Notice the notch on the shaft where the woodruff key went. Lay the new cam in the exact same way. And because you zip tied the gear in one place when you reinstall the key and gear to the camshaft timing will remain set where you started ....+/- one degree.

13.) Make sure new cam is covered in eninge assembly lube and put it back together like you took her apart.

14.) Valve adjustment is a MUST before you crank the car and you must adjust the valve for each cylinder to compensate for the additional lift or you will bend a valve when it hits a piston. (Double check your adjustments by turning the crank with your ratchet 2 revolutions to make sure nothing hits or binds. Set the valve adjustment on every piston while its at top dead center.

15.) Additional notes:.....make sure you tightened all the bolts in the right order per service manual and at right torque....Make sure dist is lined up with mark you made on the head of this will offset your timing too....thought you might just want to adjust with a gun afterwards and get it right on the money. Different cams like different timing and different valve adjustment.

16.) Run car for 30 minutes and change oil. Don't rev car high. Rev car between idle and 2500 rpms in a slow and continuos matter. DO NOT SHUT CAR OFF UNTIL 30 MINUTES IS UP. This is crucial for the life of the cam. After oil change run car on new oil 2 hours and change again...this time rev to 3500 rpm...Change oil yet again and be easy on the redline for 2000 miles...after this consider her broke in and give it hell. one more last note:...don't use synthetic..........peace..jteuton

ACCORD EX
05-09-2002, 01:06 AM
very nice one jteuton , really nice work 1 :super: :super:


MIKE

gr3k0sLaV
05-09-2002, 01:28 AM
Yer thanks for that, top work.

Hopefully it goes up in the how - to soon.

moon scryer gave a pretty decent run down on turbo'ing the
car aswell I just realised. I'd be cool though if Justin or whoever wrote a detailed article into turbo 'ing the car.

Just wondering, how would the HondaMatics stand up to been turbo'd? after a high stall converter is installed...

I'd say the trannie's would need to be strenghtened.

s0crates82
05-09-2002, 02:23 AM
hey bullfrog... careful about talking about BFE, there are a few guys on here that are actually from egypt... :)

carotman
05-09-2002, 05:43 AM
I set my break-in period time at 100 miles... :) and I revved up to 3000,

So far the engine is good. I will change the oil soon... about 1000 miles

It's just like a new engine you can drive it and just don't redline it too much in the beggining.

Bullfrog
05-09-2002, 07:33 AM
sorry to anyone that is from egypt.....its just a saying...nothing was meant by it:)



me
:stupid:
my car

3G Jester
05-17-2003, 12:12 PM
im from egypt

ACCORD EX
05-17-2003, 12:51 PM
really where from ! ?

MIKE

3G Jester
05-17-2003, 01:06 PM
no i was just kidding. i just wanted to be an ass. but i dont think its cool when people call things "jewish" or "gay" or "egyptian"..ect....

its not cool.

ACCORD EX
05-17-2003, 01:11 PM
:lol ! anyway i am not egyptian myself but i am looking for 3 gee owners around here ( living in egypt )

MIKE