Really need help! Please?!

[fotosoup]

Ok, so I have spent the last week researching on this forum as well as others and going over and over again the shop manual diagrams of the car system... but I still have no idea what is causing my problem! :wtf:

so, basically this is my issue... my throttle is being opened by something. and holds it at around 3,000rpm and wont go down... It does this intermittently... usually when i first start the car after it has been sitting overnight or while i am at work. sometimes i can give it a little gas and it drops back down...

1. Vaccum, nothing that controls throttle speed by vaccum appears to be malfunctioning (at least no the a/c thing, (dont have ac) or the high idle diaphram thing (the screw isn't pusing the throttle open))..
2. Sticking... nothing mechanically outside the carb is sticking.. soaked all the throttle body linkage aswell as the little arm on the opposite side in wd40, and everything moves freely
3. something must be opening my throttle, but what?


aside from that when it's not doing it it is idleing at 1250 cold and 750 warm! so :wtf: ....

I don't want to keep driving it this way because it is destroying my clutch (dropping the clutch from 3k all the way to and from work etc).. it's eating fuel like mad AND when i shut the car off I have to stall it, otherwise it will diesel for several minutes!

HELP!?

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

Ok, I'll try to help with this one. Dieseling means that either you are shutting down at high speed or the engine is running way too rich. You say you have checked the vacuum controls, but have you verified that your choke plate is coming to a complete vertical position once the engine is warm? If it is not, that means that your bi-metal spring is failing to open the choke all the way. If this happens, the idle control mechanism will also not function and remain at the 3000 rpm warm up setting. I'm quite positive that this is the problem. You can replace the spring (aka choke heater) with a new one. It will require drilling out the old rivets. I've replaced my rivets with nuts and bolts to facilitate service later. So in summary, check your choke plate. HTH

[fotosoup]

hmm, so in theory if I pushed the choke all the way open it should kick down to normal idle yes? (simple test to see if that is the case)

Also, what else other than that vaccume controlled diaphragm controls the idle speed? The throttle cable is slack, and I can't see anything else touching the throttle linkage that could possibly be opening the throttle.. what else can influence throttle/idle speed.. because I CAN see the throttle is opened, as if i had my foot on the gas holding it open.

[ghettogeddy]

throttle stop screw but im not sure if its adjustable i know mine is missing and wont hold an ideal after it being warmed up

[StressSolutions]

yeah, these intermittant carb problems suck, huh. I have more problems on the 20-40 mornings than any other time. Seems to help to have a fuller tank of gas, but that makes no sense, either. I've stuck a pen to hold the choke plate open so that the car will run to pick up the wife or whatever, but that doesn't cure the problem...it still runs fast. I'm thinking engine heater and maybe drilling those rivets to do the spring.

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

hmm, so in theory if I pushed the choke all the way open it should kick down to normal idle yes? (simple test to see if that is the case)
Also, what else other than that vaccume controlled diaphragm controls the idle speed? The throttle cable is slack, and I can't see anything else touching the throttle linkage that could possibly be opening the throttle.. what else can influence throttle/idle speed.. because I CAN see the throttle is opened, as if i had my foot on the gas holding it open.

The throttle is held open by a small cam above the throttle and below the choke linkage. It is difficult to see even with the airbox removed. You can try to open the choke plate and then blip the throttle just slightly. If it goes down, then you have a problem with the choke heater. I think the choke opening should do the trick. If you remove the airbox, you'll see some small springs at one end of the choke linkage. These control the rotation of the cam and choke. I believe moving them toward the firewall should open the choke and move the cam. Remember, the cam won't disengage without the throttle being opened slightly to relieve pressure on the cam.

[fotosoup]

thanks a lot 89 accordlx.. i will look into it tomorrow night! I think that sounds like it could be the problem, so I will get back to you tomorrow and see if that is the case!

Thanks again!

['89AccordLX(Rus)]

thanks a lot 89 accordlx.. i will look into it tomorrow night! I think that sounds like it could be the problem, so I will get back to you tomorrow and see if that is the case!
Thanks again!

Let me know if you need some pics. I have a spare carb lying around that I can snap some photos of.

[fotosoup]

that would help a lot, maybe you could point some stuff out on the pic to name a few things on the carb for me.. still iffy on the name of a few things (would sure help me asking questions so we get the lingo right!)