View Full Version : Carb Mods WORK IN PROGRESS
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/100_2112Small.jpg
much better...
88Accord-DX
11-24-2006, 12:35 AM
What is that, your engine hopefully. (keeps fingers crossed)
Civic Accord Honda
11-24-2006, 12:36 AM
yup you got rid of the vacum line :)
*Claps uncontrolably* what are we celebrating? Today being over? Oh noice! lol :)
lol i removed the black box :)
88Accord-DX
11-24-2006, 01:12 AM
*Claps uncontrolably* what are we celebrating? Today being over? Oh noice! lol :)
The day of celebration is when Overdosed gets his car running right. (think we should make it a holiday)
ps. let me know if the p.m. don't get answered.
ok :) thanks for the help btw :welcome: just maybe gotta advance the timming a little bit to get it to idle higher, but there is SOOO much more space without that vacuum crap, i should have done this a long time ago
88Accord-DX
11-24-2006, 01:23 AM
Good deal little man. Don't get out on the streets & get crazy now. We don't need to bail you out of jail for speeding & getting into a wreck for under-age crap.
88Accord-DX
11-24-2006, 01:23 AM
Dp
lol, i want to sell the car, not crash it :D
maybe i should go read the vacuum removal thingy now, so i can see what i done wong
ESDEEZ
11-24-2006, 02:23 AM
wtf u wanna sell it?
wtf u wanna sell it?
yeah, it's pretty much a problem on wheels
MessyHonda
11-24-2006, 08:52 PM
lol...do a real vac removal job...so it runs good....maybe you might get up to a20 speeds out of it..lol
lol its good enough, i wanna end up reading through stage 4 and doing it properly, other than that it idles like a dream, quite torqueless under 3000rpm, real good above 4000rom :)
MessyHonda
11-24-2006, 09:40 PM
lol its good enough, i wanna end up reading through stage 4 and doing it properly, other than that it idles like a dream, quite torqueless under 3000rpm, real good above 4000rom :)
sounds like my car but i dont have torque until i hit 2000 RPM till redline....3rd gear pulls are fucking sex....i got up to 90 in 3rd gear.
it seems to be sucking quite a bit of petrol =/ from my crappy calculations, i get a crappy 15mpg, so i still got a bit of work to do
A20A1
11-24-2006, 11:51 PM
open up the carb... decrease the air restrictions at the venturi to increase air and lessen the pull on the fuel to lean out the mixture. Not so easy to do as to say. You'll lose some responsiveness though.
add another waffer between the carb and throttle plates.
If the EFE screen isn't working punch it out. Otherwise leave it in to help atomize the fuel when cold.
open up the carb... decrease the air restrictions at the venturi to increase air and lessen the pull on the fuel to lean out the mixture. Not so easy to do as to say. You'll lose some responsiveness though.
add another waffer between the carb and throttle plates.
If the EFE screen isn't working punch it out. Otherwise leave it in to help atomize the fuel when cold.
:bow: :bow: you're my hero :welcome:
just done the finishing touches...
i pulled the carb off to get better access at the rest of it, found this:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/100_2387Small.jpg
so yeah i replaced that and all good :)
also removed every other un-used part, chizzled off that secondary diaphram and filed it down, nice and smooth now.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/empty.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/100_2398Small.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/100_2396Small.jpg
and i wonder why these screws are rusty =/
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/89accord/100_2383Small.jpg
oh yeah, the high end of the car is beautifull :) 4 - 7.5k so quick, but low end is a bbit slack, so might have to advance the timing a bit.
A20A1
02-20-2007, 01:44 AM
Good job.
I know I posted it somewhere but there was another mod on top of the Mechanical secondary that helped get rid of the last of the hesitation problems that can occur when you change to mechanical.
what were those hesitation problems?
i know my idle was very slack but that was cause of crappy ignition timing, which caused the carb to burst in flames (literall
A20A1
02-20-2007, 03:53 PM
Those plastic type vacuum caps tear sometimes or just pop off when there is enough pressure in the manifold... clamp the cap down, but also carry some spares to avoid driving around and ending up with a huge vacuum leak.
The rubber ones with slightly smaller diameter fit on snug, clamps will cause the rubber to split too.
ahhhhhhhh, yes i noticed how they just pop off when idling low and accelerating hard. we always left a good roll of tape in the car for when those things happen
mkymonkey
02-21-2007, 11:53 AM
wow OD youre growing up lol....real mods no more spackle shit for body work and no more coffee can exhaust tips
good work maing
hehe yeah, i remember those days lol
Civic Accord Honda
02-21-2007, 01:05 PM
wow OD youre growing up lol....real mods no more spackle shit for body work and no more coffee can exhaust tips
good work maing
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=567149&postcount=2 :P
lol i remember that, poor car :crying: what a long way i came :o
import racer
04-07-2007, 07:42 PM
I WAS WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER DIAGRAM of the black box removal.I WANT TO REMOVE MY VACUMN LINE AND WANT TO MAKE SURE I DON'T MISS ANYTHING.
first off, :welcome: :)
have you seen this thread yet? http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067
BenAthar
06-16-2007, 11:52 AM
Read the thread. It's worth it. I just finished my stage 1 vac removal. I am planning on going to at least the 3rd stage. I have other things to deal with first. I did drive it around some and it sounds better. I was having some other problems with the EGR and other emission valves and such, but now it idles much better. I don't have to worry about getting the timing right as much now, before I was having issues that maybe one of the EGR valves was going bad. Now I eliminated that problem and it idles much better. Now I just have to replace my throttle cable, seems to be sticking or the spring on the gas pedal or carb may be a little weak.
BenAthar
06-27-2007, 05:38 PM
mechanical secondary
I was wondering about how would you create the mechanical secondaries, other than the vacumn ones. I have already done stage 1 vac removal, but not sure what else I can get rid of as for all those white round valves(or vac valves of some sort). Either way, I am having some idle problems, but am planning on getting a new throttle cable and maybe fixing the fuel pump and screen. When it was running, the motor was warm enough then, but I am thinking of maybe it's the coolant is not enough to keep the carb warm. I have just replaced the water pump w/o problem and just changed out the heater core as well. I adjusted the coolant level. I am just having a hard time adjusting the idle. I can do it with the adjustment of the throttle cable, but not w/ the idle adjustment on the carb. I am at a loss, and am looking for a few new directions to look for. Any help would be helpful. I have been searching the forums, but to no avail just yet. I think that I might have to take the car into the shop so that I can drive it for a few weeks, until I move so I can ride my bike to work, once my office moves near to where I am going to live.
A20A1
04-26-2010, 08:32 PM
oh yeah, the high end of the car is beautifull :) 4 - 7.5k so quick, but low end is a bbit slack, so might have to advance the timing a bit.
The "slow/slow-air jet" is for Off idle to 1/4 throttle.
Keihin documents it as "Slow Mixture Jet" for our carb.
The Slow Mix jet is located next to the primary emulsion tube and is easily unscrewed from the carb, but barring a replacement I guess you'd have to drill it if you wanted it larger. I'm not sure if making it larger lets in more fuel or more air in our case, but keihin says that a larger jet on their other carbs will richen the mixture.
The "Primary and Secondary Air Correction Jet" are located in the top hat, although only the secondary is easily removable.
An increase in size would lean the mixture as engine speed is increased say to 3,000+ rpms, though not positive where that relates to in terms of throttle position.
The "Accelerator Pump Lever" can be bent to adjust the gap between the lever and the accelerator pump rod which will alter the timing of the pump shot.
Adding delay could solve problems of an overly rich stumble.
Try decreasing the gap between the accelerator pump tab and plunger or try increasing it. Don't get bend happy though, the tab could get weak and break. The other option would be to drill a hole and add a screw on top of the tab to adjust the gap like you would adjust valve lash.
Do adjust timing!
Other options are fuel pump and adjustable reg which do help throttle response.
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