View Full Version : The Journey 89 turbo'ed-----89T
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/9526/blackhonda010ic4.jpg
what do you guy's think would be the best way to go stand alone?
i have a holley commander950...
4g dist.
vacume to digital conversion from crane.
hall effect pickup.
magnetic pickup.
so far the crane conversion has the best price, easier to install.
let me know what you guy's think!:)
AccordEpicenter
12-04-2005, 09:00 AM
Hmm... i prolly woulda just gone OBD-1 honda instead of full standalone. So let me get this straight, you have a crane digital ignition right now and a holley commander 950? What is wrong with this setup and what are you trying to achieve... i honestly dont know much about it.
i already have the commander,from a previos turbo project whitch didn't need anything extra to control ignition timming.
i dont know much on the crank triggers either, but i need to convert over to digital or electronic controlled dist or trigger.
i am looking to find the best possible and most reliable way to control timming.
why would you go with obd-1 vs standalone? just currious.
my goal is probbably unreasonable so i wont answer that.
AccordEpicenter
12-04-2005, 10:15 AM
Price and driveability of going obd1 seems to be better than standalone, but with either youll get digital ignition with the distributor, but the most accurate ignitions are electronic distributorless crank trigger'd wasted spark type setups (with coilpacks instead of a distributor) which can be adapted to either setup i believe. Thats gonna take some time and money to setup. For me personally, obd1 with electronically controlled timing is more than adequate.
thank's for the info.
Afriend of mine said there was a write up "coil on plug" on honda-tech but for the life of me i couldn't find it. More searching i guess.
I would definately look at doing that.
I need to get a hand-full of other part's before i go standalone.
no time like the present to start planning.
AccordEpicenter
12-04-2005, 11:09 AM
coil on plug is real good too but ive never seen an aftermarket conversion to run it either with a stand alone or a honda ecu. Most new hondas are coil on plug too.
this is what i found so far on a dis system.
electromotive dis system http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/electro3a.htm
and still nothing on coil on plug.
Zufer
12-05-2005, 12:15 AM
one thought MEGASQUIRT
j/k:)
i have a standalone.
i am looking for the best way to control timming.
you know spark up a descussion.:rofl:
I know we are limmited on what we can do with our engines but I think there is more here not only for turbo guy's but the na guy's as well.
I was hopin someone would catch what i did with the link.
i dont need something to control timming..
i need the trigger.
"my goal is probbably unreasonable so i wont answer that."
400 or #2 on the list. the list does need to be updated btw....
here i did it for you.::rofl:
Accordtheory
12-05-2005, 08:08 PM
what about neptune?
..quite possibly what I'll end up with
Accordtheory
12-05-2005, 08:08 PM
what do you think, rtp vs s300?
Robs89LXi
12-05-2005, 08:47 PM
Why did you choose the Holley? Do you have any of this installed yet?
I have heard nothing but good things about neptune, with a good tuner you'r destined for good dyno numbers.
I went with holley becuase i got it fairly cheap. you know the money thing.
as for triggers i haven't decided yet.
i still need injector's, intake manifold, throttle body, vaccumme block, wide band ect.
before i install it.
military mase
12-06-2005, 08:40 AM
Even though Neptune is cheaper isn't it olso easier to tune than the AEM EMS. I'm still stuck on which is a good way to go for my turbo setup.
Accordtheory
12-06-2005, 12:58 PM
I don't understand..89turbo'ed, you want to have Separate controllers for fuel and ignition? And you're going to have intake air and coolant temp timing and fuel compensation with that? If not, all the 'accuracy' with a crank triggered system would be totally pointless. And what about knock control, closed loop fuel control, datalogging, etc, etc? I would adapt an obd-1 factory system, or get the aem ems, which still has to be adapted.
So then its 'ostrich'+cromePRO vs hondata s300vs neptune rtp vs aem ems. All real time programmable, and probably all almost as good, I don't know. Aem is really expensive, but supposedly you can use cbr coil on plug ignition with that. There is a writeup on H-T about that.
dont let the price fool you...
neptune is alote easier to tune than the AEM EMS, with more funtionability.
shoot a pm over to Servion on honda-tech. He has tuned both and is a athurized dealer of neptune.
here are some of his work..
http://www.serviontuning.com/tuned.php
look at the stock h22 #'s
I don't understand..89turbo'ed, you want to have Separate controllers for fuel and ignition?
no sir i just threw that one out there...
the commander will control timming with a trigger as well the fuel as you stated.
it has data logging real time programming, the whole nine yards...
i am fixin to send it in to get the pro software and wideband installed.
with the commander i can run closed loop, open loop, alpha-n, or speed density.
I'll look for the thread on the cbr thanks.
jigga89SEi
12-06-2005, 03:58 PM
SDS.. is my friend...
I haven't played with it to much.. But i know thats what i'm gonna use with my turbo set up...
RobT5580
12-06-2005, 05:37 PM
If you have money AEM is not a bad choice and they now have a functionaly OBD-0 available. I ran my turbo B20A with a OBD-1 AEM EMS and it was great for the most part. Just check around for competent tuners in your area cause i paid big bucks to have someone travel here to help me out. Im going to still aim for 350+ WHP cause a friend has a prelude B20A putting that down so i should be able to do that with ease consider the stuff i have once i get a new turbo.
If your on a budget neptune is said to be very good but remember its only as good as the tuner. Iv seen a lot of hackers so you might have a good system but a bad tuner will turn you away from any system if not done right. Good luck with your setup hopefully i can bring a better video next summer but for now im set on buying an 06 EVO MR for a daily driver and hopefully get the accord done cause iv dragged it out way to long granted the amount of money spent on it is a rediculous amount no matter how you look at it.
Accordtheory
12-06-2005, 06:18 PM
supposedly the neptune rtp can interface with your laptop wirelessly via bluetooth, qualifying it for pimp status in my book. I also don't like hondata just on principle, I don't like their support and I'm just a counter the status quo kind of guy. They were also behind the curve with their previous systems.
As far as tuning, personally, I would Never hire anyone to tune my car. Every Single time I have Ever hired Anyone to do Anything to my car, they have fucked it up. Seriously. Shit, I just paid Rywire for my b series conversion harness, and I had to redo about half of it to get the wires where they needed to be. To me, tuning is the final aspect to the educational process, once you have selected all of your components, built the engine, wiring, mounts, turbosystem, etc. Why do we do this, modify cars? (especially an old ass car like the 3g) To be express yourself, to learn, to compete, paying someone else and giving up an opportunity to learn just isn't the same.
Robs89LXi
12-06-2005, 06:35 PM
"To me, tuning is the final aspect to the educational process, once you have selected all of your components, built the engine, wiring, mounts, turbosystem, etc. Why do we do this, modify cars? (especially an old ass car like the 3g) To be express yourself, to learn, to compete, paying someone else and giving up an opportunity to learn just isn't the same."
LOL. Amen. I'm glad to see someone else who thinks the same.
w00tw00t111
12-06-2005, 07:09 PM
I agree with you AccordTheory but, the problem at least in the view that I see it is I personally don't have enough competence/confidence in myself to tune it and have it function and run correctly much less as best as it can. So I try to do everything I can but, when I come to something that I personally can't do I hire it done and try to arrange it to where I can come by and watch them work. I would love to learn how to tune a car but, I'm not sure how to. I know the "basic principles" but, I guess you could compare it to book smarts that you learn about a subject in college and then actually doing the job in the "real world". The book smarts might help you a little in your job but, you have to learn how it "really works" and that can contain some very very expensive lessons and if you don't have the money to counter the expenses you go out of buisness or lose your job.
Hopefully you can see the comparison I'm trying to draw. I just find it hard to get the "real world" experience needed to successfully tune your engine. Any guidence on that subject would be great but, for now that's my .02cents.
I agree with what you'r saying, but I am smart enough to know that I am not very good at tunning an ecu. So instead of guessing what i am doing I can learn from someone who tunes it for a living. I am a mechanical type person I can build or make almost anything. When it comes to something as technical as tunning a ecu, I guess you can say that i am not comfertible doing something that i dont know alot about.
thats just me.
RobT5580
12-06-2005, 07:35 PM
"To me, tuning is the final aspect to the educational process, once you have selected all of your components, built the engine, wiring, mounts, turbosystem, etc. Why do we do this, modify cars? (especially an old ass car like the 3g) To be express yourself, to learn, to compete, paying someone else and giving up an opportunity to learn just isn't the same."
LOL. Amen. I'm glad to see someone else who thinks the same.
I agree and i got the best feeling this summer taking my car to the honda-tech show in CT and just hanging around my hometown at some shops. People do a tripple take and ask "what yeah is that accord" and they're like holly crap thats a sleeper. This is one reason i never settled for any car and i honestly love the accord style and layout its almost flawless in my eyes. Iv driven many cars and for some reason id still take the accord over many other cars. As for tuning i dont feel any where near competent enough to do what has been done to my car already. The thing is when it comes to tuning and an engine i spent $15k+ its not worth blowing it up over something stupid. Granted iv had plenty of issues thus far but none tuning related that im aware of.
Robs89LXi
12-06-2005, 07:36 PM
Well, I also have the luxury of not having to use my 3G as my daily driver. It is a lot easier to experiment and take your time learning when you don't have to depend on your toy for daily transportation. Since I do though, then yes, I would much rather learn how whatever system I use works, than just blindly depending on someone else. That way, even if you get to a point where you will need help, at least you have a much better idea of what is going on. Long term, you are a lot better off as well, especially if you constantly update your car.
Robs89LXi
12-06-2005, 07:40 PM
Just a little tag on here too:
I would sure hope that everyone, and anyone who does go boost, or upgrade engine management, will share what they have done on this forum. Thanks.
AccordEpicenter
12-06-2005, 08:03 PM
Fuck hondata. I think that some SDS systems are pretty good, as are megasquirt etc... i dont know much about neptune though. I prefer to run open loop all the time (and i do, lol). If your good enough a tuner, running openloop all the time can actually increase your gas mileage out of boost and simplify tuning (at least i think so)
tell us how you really feel. :)
i took this right out of the book.
closed loop defines the engine operation where the fueling level is calculated and corrected by the ecu from the o2 sensor.when the o2 sensor emits a voltage signal above .45 volts due to a rich mixture ,the ECU reduces the fueling level by reducing the pulse width of the injector.
open loop defines the engine operation where the fueling level is calculated by the ECU with only the input signals from the tps, coolant, and/or air charge temp,and from the map sensor.
from that i would expect increased fuel milage in closed loop during normal driving, and open loop under lead-foot conditions.
i got a link from h-tech.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1344468
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1170475
Accordtheory
12-07-2005, 05:33 PM
Some of those systems even have an 'autotune' function, you can set the a/f value to what you want, and it will figure out the pulsewidth itself. (obviously with a wideband) I think neptune has that. I guess most of those setups don't tune the ignition though.. I know of one system that used a g sensor, presumably to alter ignition timing on the fly to determine maximum brake torque like a dyno, but I don't know about that anymore. Cybernation has some interesting things out there for the k20 also. The 'guardian'
Accordtheory
12-07-2005, 06:26 PM
Fuck hondata. I think that some SDS systems are pretty good, as are megasquirt etc... i dont know much about neptune though. I prefer to run open loop all the time (and i do, lol). If your good enough a tuner, running openloop all the time can actually increase your gas mileage out of boost and simplify tuning (at least i think so)
What's wrong with the s300? You just don't like the price tag?
The only reason why cars don't run in closed loop under full throttle is they don't come with a wideband o2. Some cars do now though. The most popular wideband sensor used by the aftermarket is a vw part, but you already know that..
Actually, as far as open loop all the time, I know why you said that, you just want to run at 15-15.5:1 under cruise instead of 14.7, with a little more timing. You can still do that in closed loop, you just have to set it to do that in your program with the wideband.
Now, does anyone know why running leaner than stoichiometric can give you better mpg? it's not an obvious, easy answer..
I would have to guess,that is where an engine makes the most power..
11- 12;1 range.
althogh I could be wrong...
I thought i would give it try...
AccordEpicenter
12-07-2005, 08:23 PM
ehh i think the hondata guys are snotty, and all that shyt is mad expensive... And yes that is why id like to run open loop all the time
Kabuki
12-08-2005, 09:28 AM
I'm telling you, guys... check out PGMFI.org. We can do anything we want with the stock Honda ECUs. You may need to use one from a Civic or Integra, but the wiring is nearly Identical. Crome Pro also has the Autotune feature, and works very well coupled with an Ostrich real-time programming/updating circuit, and a wide-band oxygen sensor meter. You can tune on a dyno, or on the street. And this stuff is all made by small companies and supported by a huge DIY community with tons of experience. Don't give your money to ZDyne, Hondata, AEM, or the like. They make plenty, and don't have the kind of support infrastructure they should.
Accordtheory
12-09-2005, 04:50 PM
I think the price goes like this: ostrich+ cromePro<neptune rtp<hondata s300<aem ems. I think for n/a, the ostrich+uberdata would be ok. I need to check up on the neptune setup though, I don't even know if it's out yet..I think it was supposed to be though..
Accordtheory
12-09-2005, 04:57 PM
hopefully get the accord done cause iv dragged it out way to long granted the amount of money spent on it is a rediculous amount no matter how you look at it.
You're not alone with that sentiment..shit, if I would have known how much I'd spend on this stupid car before I did anything, I would have just sold it..
96+ civic hatch: No soul, but no weight either, perfect turbo b series car.
military mase
12-10-2005, 11:48 AM
I've been talking to this other guy named Hugues here's his cardomain site>> He wrote in french it just so happens i know french. http://lowrider.cardomain.com/ride/771359/1 He is running Megasquirt and he gots his up and running. I'm tring to get him to come on the site. I know gf-r-g88 on here talked to him too. I'll talk to him some more to see how he likes it.
check this out.
a friend of mine just got neptuned.
he was rollin the blue box,dynoed with the blitz power meter(like the g-tech)
he had a previous best of 234hp
put the p28+neptune on a street tune and came up with 278hp on his power meter. thats 44 hp difference!
he didn't make any other changes to his car.
i cant wait for dyno #'s.
speaking of stand alone's...
F22 dizzy...
wire diagrams with and without internal coil?
even a shop drawing will work.
anyone have one?
(theres another new post on page 2)
I could imagine...
3 set's of tires a year.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTEGRA-B18C5-B16-SKUNK-2-CIVIC_W0QQitemZ8028997514QQcategoryZ36474QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem
plus a 70mm throttle body...
550 injectors, or shall i say screw it and go 1000cc injectors.
i am going stand alone so it would'nt be a problem either way.
Bglad420
01-15-2006, 12:22 AM
Go for it....Hey PM me I wanna ask you a few Q's about your Turbo set up, mainly your dizzy, and fuel management.
Accordtheory
01-15-2006, 11:30 AM
Why not just get the aebs? Probably just as good, like within 1hp, and about $150, instead of $230. The S2 is a 'direct bolt on', and smog legal, but not to the a20 anyway, so who cares.. But if you like the skunk2 better, go for it.
3G Jester
01-15-2006, 12:16 PM
no b series mannifold is a direct bolt on. they all need moddification.
if you wanna be that ballin and get the S2 intake manny--go for it. and as far as the carb legal thing.....yeah it may not be carb legal on the a20 but they dont know that. if forsome reason someone is looking under his hood, and htey see the sticker...chances are they will say alright. not deffinate but its a possibility.
AccordEpicenter
01-16-2006, 04:27 PM
aebs typhoon>skunk2 intake mani. Its cheaper too. Im thinking about getting a 65-70mm tb too, they are just damn expensive!
w00tw00t111
01-16-2006, 04:33 PM
Thanks for asking this 89turbo b/c I was wondering the same thing! :)
aebs typhoon>skunk2 intake mani. Its cheaper too. Im thinking about getting a 65-70mm tb too, they are just damn expensive!
why the aebs typhoon over the skunk2?
i figure why go in it half way when you can suprise the shit out of people when you open the hood of an old ass accord.
You for one should know the look, when you pull away!
it's just like anything else, you'r buying the name.
for those that think i am ballin; this is a hobby for me, It keep's me out of the bars, off drugs, gives me something to build (I do the fab work myself) and i would be damb'ed if i did'nt like to go fast!
you'r right the tb's arent cheap. I have 70mm from a 5.0 mustang that i'm going to try and fit. I need the intake first to see what modifications will need to be done, or if i need to make an adaptor plate.
either way i'll make it work.
Go for it....Hey PM me I wanna ask you a few Q's about your Turbo set up, mainly your dizzy, and fuel management.
pm'ed
Accordtheory
01-20-2006, 02:18 AM
no b series mannifold is a direct bolt on. they all need moddification.
I said "but not to the a20 anyway, so who cares". The aebs is not a direct bolt on to the engine it is meant for either, you still have to fuck with the vacuum lines, etc to make everything fit. The s2 fits like stock.
Accordtheory
01-20-2006, 02:26 AM
why the aebs typhoon over the skunk2?
I think the S2/oem type r/aebs manifolds are all pretty comparable, just like the victor x/bbk/revhard manifolds, or AIR/endyn/full race manifolds. The first category tries not to sacrifice mid range efficiency, the 2nd category does in favor of higher rpm power, and the 3rd category is just better engineering overall, to the tune of like 40whp over the victor x on a high boost application, with a fatter powerband too.
I would choose the aebs over the S2 because it I believe it has a larger plenum.
Accordtheory
01-20-2006, 02:27 AM
man, this site is all retarded right now..it just tried to multiply my post
Bglad420
01-20-2006, 07:54 AM
What about the venom intake??? How does that compare????
Deadhead
01-20-2006, 08:28 AM
Venom intakes are pretty sweet, but i'm sure those would need modification also. Or do they make them for the a20?
The only venom i've seen is on a 4g63 motor.
aerokid1987
01-20-2006, 12:56 PM
I'm gonna agree about the AEM cuz it is the same exact thing for half price. Who cares about opening the hood and seeing Skunk... I mean doesn't skunk shit stink anyway?? lol lol just kidding...:Owned:
w00tw00t111
01-20-2006, 07:14 PM
Yeah deadhead venom makes intakes for the b series engines but, they're $500 bucks. Quite a bit more but, to me it seems like they're engineered very well. They've got runners going into the square/rectangle plenum w/ velocity stacks on them. It seems like they did their homework or at least they did it for the engine that the part was intended for. As for accordtheory's post I've never heard of AIR/endyn/full race manifolds where do you get those minus the full race manifolds b/c I'm assuming you mean scratch/custom built mani's but what about the AIR and endyn where can you buy those and for that matter what are good online car part sources besides inlinefour.com.
Also, what about the plan jane stock ITR manifold? Do a little clean-up port matching would that flow very well?
Accordtheory
01-21-2006, 12:39 AM
endyn worked with advanced induction research on that carbon fiber manifold, which is awesome, (well over 1k$) but is no longer available. So now endyn is offering their own fabricated manifolds. The new manifold sold by full race (around 800$, I believe) looks to me like a copy of the AIR in aluminum. I don't know about the venom, but it looks like the GE, and I don't think much of those..but if it has an aerodynamically correct transition into the runners..whatever.
I can't really see myself spending more than about $250 on an intake manifold. I'll probably either end up with the aebs again or the victor x when I get my vtec head..
gfrg88
01-21-2006, 10:00 AM
the civic type r is the same as the integra type r right??
Accordtheory
01-21-2006, 05:30 PM
the civic type r is the same as the integra type r right??
I don't know, but I wouldn't bet on it..
Versanick
01-21-2006, 06:30 PM
Not exactly. Their manifolds probably will flow negligibly differently, though.
Get the BLOX. It flows with the best skunk2 has to offer. Both would be great for n/a.
Nothing will compare with Endyn's stuff, but who has that retarded kind of money? If I were rich, I'd just send the whole motor to Endyn and have them build it.
And definitely get some 4.6L and 5.0L TB's going. that's part of my project for this spring. Though I thought they were all 65mm. Both use .2-5V signal, just as Honda. "But, they wont' necessarily provide the same signal at say, half, as a honda one will, and everything will be thrown off"... If you're upgrading your TB by such a significant amount anyway, I hope you're doing something else to make sure you're running right anyway (i.e. SAFC), and I hope you find the performance benefit that you deserve for your work.
As far as vacuum, making a vacuum box is your best bet. You could buy them (expensive), or fab one. My friend is going to fab me one with 20 vacuum lines, so that I can plug all my vacuums into the vacuum box, and the vacuum blox will pull vacuum from a big tap in the BLOX.
I'm excited.
good luck with your project
gfrg88
01-21-2006, 07:13 PM
so my real question is will the civic type r IM need the same work as b18c5?? will it fit the a20 head?? cause im getting one from someone on here
i already have the ford setup... so with the stand alone i will have no voltage problems. thats with the ford tb and ford tps.
for vacume the only thing i can think of right now will be the 3 bar map sensor and master cylender.(spelling?)
but that's nothing.
what i am getting at is what ever i do it can be done.
i am also looking to adapt the ford eecIv dizzy on a honda but that will be in time.
buy it get the a20 gasket and match it up..if it does match up.
drill holes and port match.
bump...
anyone going standalone soon?
gfrg88
01-21-2006, 10:05 PM
so no one knows for sure if i just have to drill new holes or what??
what engine # is the type r civic? b18c1 b18c5????
if i knew i would post.
gfrg88
01-21-2006, 10:23 PM
not sure which one its from, its a b16 something i think :dunno:
Accordtheory
01-21-2006, 10:27 PM
Both use .2-5V signal, just as Honda. "But, they wont' necessarily provide the same signal at say, half, as a honda one will, and everything will be thrown off"...
Even if they did provide the same voltage vs throttle position, that wouldn't mean much, considering how much more air the larger tb would be flowing for that voltage output.
it should work.port matching and drilling like 2 new holes.
Accordtheory
01-21-2006, 10:32 PM
so no one knows for sure if i just have to drill new holes or what??
Of course someone knows..b16, type r, same thing. yes, you have to drill a few holes..and port match your head's intake ports to the b16/type r gasket. The a20 ports aren't as tall. Not that big of a deal, but will take most of a day to do the swap properly.
gfrg88
01-21-2006, 10:45 PM
well i wasnt sure if they were the same, so the si and the type r are basically the same then right?? im still learning lol
Accordtheory
01-22-2006, 01:53 PM
"basically", but the manifolds still might be slightly different. The heads might differ as far as chamber size/shape, "factory porting", undercut valve stems, and valve springs. Of course the b16 block, crank, rods and pistons are different, and the b16 block doesn't have a girdle either. I don't know if the ctr or itr heads are the same or have the b16 chambers or the gsr chambers. I want a gsr head for my engine.
military mase
01-23-2006, 10:18 AM
I'm going standalone but i won't make my decision untill 2 more weeks. I'm still talking to this tune in NC that is a Neptune tuner/Dealer I'm also looking into the trigger crank sys. too. Only bad thing is that he is 3 hours away but it's close enough though.
Hash_man_Se_i
01-23-2006, 11:22 AM
A friend of mine is using an Autronic standalone ECU in his car, and that system is awesome... things like launch control can also be hooked up.. Wicked system if any of you have yet to decide/
military mase
01-23-2006, 11:36 AM
Only bad thing about neptune is that there is not many tuners for it and you have to keep going back to the tuner and can't tune it yourself whichmakes you go back to the same tuner all the time.
Accordtheory
01-23-2006, 04:21 PM
neptune is Supposedly coming out with a real time system that you can learn to tune yourself. It is taking forever to come out, but looks like it be better than hondata's s300. I just downloaded the SManager for the s300, and am Not impressed with its lack of load points on the map axis for low boost levels. (like under 20 psi)
Bglad420
01-23-2006, 05:34 PM
Hey 89 Turboed, I'd be interested in your current setup when you get a new one, PM me and let me know!
military mase
01-23-2006, 06:35 PM
From the looks of it when i was talking to the tuner(P1auto) Neptune is steps above hondadata by far.
Hey 89 Turboed, I'd be interested in your current setup when you get a new one, PM me and let me know!
the only thing i woulden't need anymore is the btm.
Bglad420
01-28-2006, 05:36 PM
the only thing i woulden't need anymore is the btm.
What would you want for it, would it be complete (instructions)
yup! till i do it i'll wait on price.
so pm me with this subject so i dont forget.
Justin86
02-04-2006, 10:02 AM
I'm happy with chrome now. I'm looking into megasquirt to get rid of the dizzy, but you guys can have a $300 set up and still be more then happy with it.
i am sitting here lookin at a d16y8 dizzy and it is looking like a really good match for the old accord.
bolt holes look like there going to match up pretty good.
i need to do alittle grinding and move a water line but nothing extensive.
good deal justin.
Bglad420
02-04-2006, 10:28 PM
My buddy has an old non working d16 dizzy.....
i have a fresh one here, i am going to begin fitment today.
well it fit's. range of motion kinda sucks but with alittle cutting and welding she'll be as good as stock.
the other thing is that i am going to have to clock the cam key to match the a20 cam key.
I may be getting rid of the holley commander and doing the obd1 with neptune.
I am pricing everything now.
let's see if i remember how to do this!
apparently not.
reposting....
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6990/picture0040hj.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/5779/picture0266cv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3094/picture0457iy.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6916/picture0469zr.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7602/picture0493ub.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
t/3to4e stage 3 62-1
Hash_man_Se_i
07-01-2006, 09:40 AM
horrible failure, lol... none of it works.
gfrg88
07-01-2006, 09:56 AM
very nice!!! is that a civic rad your running?? what brand is its? and does it seem to cool off the engine enough or does it over heat???
keep up the good work, and post up some dyno numbers when your done with it :thumbup:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3084/picture0354bv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
bi-core koyo race rad.92-95 civic
it should keep it cool ,technically it is the same size as the oem rad being that the oem is a single core.
Hash_man_Se_i
07-01-2006, 10:18 AM
Looks good... kinda hard to see much from those pics cuz theyre so small. Is that a skunk2 intake mani?
Cheeseburger
07-01-2006, 10:20 AM
Bigger Pics!!!!
Versanick
07-01-2006, 10:22 AM
hawt
http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/4808/picture0047ug.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6317/picture0261zt.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/5697/picture0458rz.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/6565/picture0464qv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/8974/picture0497of.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
yea its a skunk.
AccordEpicenter
07-01-2006, 10:58 AM
how good does that 62-1 work? What boost level are you at again? When does it spool?
Hash_man_Se_i
07-01-2006, 11:11 AM
bigger pics are much better... pretty nice setup you have going on there.
Cheeseburger
07-01-2006, 11:21 AM
sweet mother of god!!! thats sweet!!!
thanks cheese. I'll get more picks as i progress.
the hybrid vs a straight t3, The differance is crazy!
the t-3 pulled hard from start to finnish at 12.5psi.
the hybrid was alittle laggie but when it came under full boost(@4500rpm) the car would straight come un-glue'd! the power differance was crazy.
I am looking for 4+ball's on the dyno. we'll see or blow it up tryin.
AccordEpicenter
07-03-2006, 06:12 AM
ok thats not too terrible, my .63 exhaust housing was fully boosted by around 4000 and blew the tires loose when it hit... Post your dyno sheets when you get them!!
EricW
07-03-2006, 10:26 AM
nice set up
i was hoping to be street tunning next weekend but i am having trouble with the dizzy.
either i get it figured out or ill have to go with an optical or a magnetic pickup crank trigger.
SQ is the SQUAD
07-05-2006, 12:10 PM
looking good
thanks
she 's comming along slowly. The machine shop should be done wih my distributer either today or monday.
once i get her running she'll get paint.
aaahhhhaaahahaha!
i got her running!
with alittle help from ford....
heres one for the r&d department.
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/1008/picture0511mz.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/332/picture0528xm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I didn't get any pic's of the ford tfi before it was machined..
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/6097/picture0539rp.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2393/picture0548lv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/9186/picture0560fm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/2741/picture0588dy.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9459/picture0594ie.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
gfrg88
07-08-2006, 01:47 PM
aaahhhhaaahahaha!
i got her running!
with alittle help from ford....
heres one for the r&d department.
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/1008/picture0511mz.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/332/picture0528xm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
I didn't get any pic's of the ford tfi before it was machined..
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/6097/picture0539rp.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2393/picture0548lv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/9186/picture0560fm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/2741/picture0588dy.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9459/picture0594ie.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
DUDE!!!! you fuking rock!!!! :rockon:
get us some more info on what you did there :thumbup:
EricW
07-08-2006, 04:42 PM
Looks great.
DUDE!!!! you fuking rock!!!! :rockon:
get us some more info on what you did there :thumbup:
well there isnt much to say on this mod except for it was easy and the price wasnt too bad.
i paid $125 for the machine work.
too tell you the truth i got frustrated with the honda dist..
the dist. would'nt talk to the commander.
soo i had a ford dist. sittin around it had plenty of meat on it and it looked like it would be a good match.
i went to burts machine and told them i needed the base of the ford to mirror the honda 2 days later it was a perfect match.
the old a20 fired up right off.
just think of the possibilities.....svo ecu swap. other options such as mass air and tunner software.
Cheeseburger
07-08-2006, 07:32 PM
I'm in love with your engine!
updated pic for you...
http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7532/picture0638qf.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Cheeseburger
07-08-2006, 07:41 PM
:) hotness, seeing your car is making me think of going turbo
heres another one.
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/918/picture0649rd.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Cheeseburger
07-08-2006, 07:49 PM
nice!
mkymonkey
07-08-2006, 08:11 PM
how do you have that lil radiator on there. and are you afraid of the support not being there because you cut that top part of the engine bay where the hood latches to?
A20A1
07-08-2006, 08:13 PM
So no DIY info on getting that dis to fit... what car is it from?
Is the clearance between the cam bearing and the distributor that tight that it doesn't need any screws to hold it in place?
the radiator is mounted on 3 points for now and the support isn't there because these are progressive pic's i have'nt modified and installed it yet.
by the way its a bolt on peice not a cut out peice.
a20 there is not alote to tell...this part of the project you need to take it to a machinest.
all you have to do is tell them to match the honda dist from the base out to the cam key.remove the key and mill the ford shaft to fit the key.
make sure they have the cap and rotor of both so they can clock the key correctly. pay close attention to the cam key it is slightly off center to only fit one way.
a few years ago i turbo'ed the first ford tempo with the 2.3 hsc ohv and made about 250 hp to the wheels and is still currntly the worlds fastest :LOL: . i then bought my accord and took alote of The part's i had and built a turbo accord. this dist is from a 86 ford tempo, but you can also use parts from a svo mustang, hsc mustang,thunderbird turbo coupe and a ranger.
i am not good at write up's so i hope this will do.
i forgot... bb chevy mount i had to drill a new hole behind chevy hole.
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/9064/picture0586jb.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
gfrg88
07-09-2006, 02:50 AM
so does it run???? what ecu are you using?? do you have build a conversion harness???
she's at the ideling stage of tunning, and I am still putting her back together.
I am waiting for servion to get back from las vegas to street tune then dyno tune.
i am using the holley commander 950 standalone and yea i had to make a harness for the altonator and starter wire.
I am guessing that what you are asking me is if i am using a ford ecu, no.
but it isn't that hard to pull a ecu and harness from a ford and adapt it to the honda.
it's just wires and sensors.
another progress pic....
http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/9026/picture0690jv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
gfrg88
07-09-2006, 05:52 PM
dude im loving your car more and more :D
what else do you have, as in any internal parts???
the short block is fully built. JE 10.5:1 pistons eagle H beam rods acl bearings and the rotating assembly is fully ballanced. Everything else is brand new,oil pump,water pump and altonator.
head work will be the next thing i get done.
snoopyloopy
07-09-2006, 08:47 PM
wow, 10.5:1 compression on a turbo set-up? that sounds like some good power is going to be produced right there.
gfrg88
07-09-2006, 10:44 PM
the short block is fully built. JE 10.5:1 pistons eagle H beam rods acl bearings and the rotating assembly is fully ballanced. Everything else is brand new,oil pump,water pump and altonator.
head work will be the next thing i get done.
holy shit dude, thats fuken awesome!!! so how much boost you planning on running?? what numbers are you looking for on the dyno?? :D
i should be able to hit 350-400 hp but we'll see...
as far as boost goes i'll do what it takes to get those #'s
Cheeseburger
07-10-2006, 09:56 AM
nice!
sorry for no up dates!
I have had alote of drama in my life lately so i havent tuned yet.
hopefully tommarrow servion and I will get to base tune and street tune the accord.
We are looking for dyno tunning in another week or two.
another summer is about gone.
I am still working the bugs out but i hope to be on the dyno real soon.
:SAD: well maybe next summer.
while street tunning something let loose....I cant tell where in the engine, so she'll have to be torn down again.
I guess I'll tear down the trans while the moter is out rebuild them both.
see you guy's down the road..
MessyHonda
08-24-2006, 08:06 PM
:sad: well maybe next summer.
while street tunning something let loose....I cant tell where in the engine, so she'll have to be torn down again.
I guess I'll tear down the trans while the moter is out rebuild them both.
see you guy's down the road..
that hella sucks....yeah you should of done a compression test to find out the condition of the motor....i dont think the stock engine can handle that much boast....how much were you running anyways?
It's no where near stock. the bottom end is fully built.
fully ballanced with eagle H beams, je pistons,ect.
as far as leakdown she was under 4% accross the board.
the thing is that we were tunning @ 8#'s on the street then next week we were going to dyno tune and raise the boost till we hit the 400hp mark.
It almost sounds like the oil pump exploded. who knows.
2drSE-i
08-25-2006, 05:08 AM
that sucks, but it makes you sound like a badass
"my car is so powerful parts of it explode" hahaha
I didnt mean for it to sound that way.
I havent been able to pull the motor appart yet but it seem's that the timing belt jumped a tooth.
i started the car and put the stethascope to it, the noise is comming from the the top of the motor on the #1 cyl.(on the head and exhaust runner)
i wounder if a valve is slaping the piston?...
do you guy's think that skipping a tooth would cause the valve to hit the piston?
2drSE-i
08-29-2006, 07:39 AM
its very possible, these are interference engines.
what's there to say.
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4383/piston004nn6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/4787/piston005lz3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
this is a good one
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/7531/piston006vi9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
the bad
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6559/piston007ff4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img55.imageshack.us/img55/6010/piston008lz1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/8030/piston009ct8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9970/piston010dc9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
the crank is also trash.
double check the guy in the machine shop!
one bolt was torqed to only 22 ft/lbs the other to 62 ft/lbs
Vanilla Sky
09-02-2006, 10:30 PM
what's to say, you say? i guess i'd have to say that there's a machine shop that owes you at least the labor to rebuild your motor, if not the parts as well.
Legend_master
09-02-2006, 10:44 PM
what's to say, you say? i guess i'd have to say that there's a machine shop that owes you at least the labor to rebuild your motor, if not the parts as well.
:werd: , how does the combustion chamber look?
what's to say, you say? i guess i'd have to say that there's a machine shop that owes you at least the labor to rebuild your motor, if not the parts as well.
pretty much it has been labeled as a racing engine so it's as is no warranty.
I will go talk to them on tesday, but i think it wont get me anywhere.
the block is undammaged, the head looks ok, but i'll have to smooth the edges where the piston hit it. Atleast till i can afford head work.
well guy's as i stated the machine shop wont admit to any wrong doing...
that's ok though i'll do it all myself this time.
i got a doner engine form the j/y had the crank micro pollished at a different shop. line boared all the rods to match, painted the block gloss black with clear coat. I begain assembly crank and rods are back in, now time to put the head and alt ect. in. I am waiting for a reply on a certain ramhorn manifold but if that falls through i will build a tunned manifold.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/1005/dsc00816kq8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/1200/dsc00814oo7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Legend_master
09-22-2006, 04:38 AM
Damn dude thats a badass setup, it looks liek you put alot of work into this motor. Good job and get some videos when it is running.
shepherd79
09-22-2006, 05:33 AM
can you take more pictures of the exhaust manifold and turbo. I want to see how it sits there.
Did you make your own manifold?
AccordEpicenter
09-22-2006, 12:06 PM
god that sucks. I would replace that rod as it looks like its been heated up some, might have drawn the temper out of it. So all it was was the number 1 rod bearing spun? It could have been worse... More pics!! What kind of slugs were those anyway?
they are JE's 10.5:1 compression pistons.
i'll tell you what sucks! every crevice and oil line was contaminated, I spent 8 hours just cleaning the junk out.
as far as pic's go i only have 1 more with the motor out.
I am puting it back in now,but i can get some with it hanging loose though.
imageshack is sucking ass right now so i cant even get the one up.
AccordEpicenter
09-22-2006, 12:33 PM
are you using main studs and what headgasket are you using? Im going for big boost on stock compression with big head/intake work...
shepherd79
09-22-2006, 05:23 PM
i just want to see how you did your exhaust manifold. I am collecting data for my own turbo manifold that i hope i will make it in about a year or so.
are you using main studs and what headgasket are you using? Im going for big boost on stock compression with big head/intake work...
for the time being i am only using new stock bolts and felpro head gaskets until it's fully tuned. I'd rather blow a head gasket then incinerate the pistons.
I am not going to run past 14#'s(well i'll try not to) till i get my spare head done and then i'll go copper w/arp's and 25-30#'s. Right now this head is my weakest link.
I am trying to go in stages if that makes any sense.
let me know what you find for good head parts....
shep...
start buying part's now....
the good stuff isn't cheap,and you'll actually spend alot on the little stuff.
I got some more pic's today well see if they will post.
I'll tell you straight up this manifold isn't my best work but it was done quick and cheap. $70 in part's and 3 hours time
sooner or later it will go on the for sale section after i build a fully tuned top mount.
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4964/dsc00813qz3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/9613/piston019mr6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/7704/piston021fq9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/8678/piston022yk1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/2927/piston026bt8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/3411/piston027xs4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6352/piston025jo8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
before anyone say's anything i am trying something different.
the t3/t4e 62-1 stage 3 went from a 63ar back to a 48ar turbine housing. I want to see what difference it will make in spool time. I also want to se if it will run out.
dam i'll have to go 1 size smaller next time! lol
MessyHonda
09-22-2006, 10:39 PM
^^^you got to love the A20A3T.....just hot^^^once you get it running i would love to see a video of that beast.
I have vids! if i can get them off my other computer....
I have one of me smokin a wrx by a car off the line..
if i remeber right she does a 1.7 60 ft.
i burned a disk... and nothing.
gfrg88
09-23-2006, 01:32 AM
I have vids! if i can get them off my other computer....
I have one of me smokin a wrx by a car off the line..
if i remeber right she does a 1.7 60 ft.
i burned a disk... and nothing.
was this at bandimere?? when are you going back out there?? im gonna hopefully be back there this wed night :D
shepherd79
09-23-2006, 05:44 AM
thanks for the pictures.
when you get ready to sell the manifold, let me know. I am interested.
I don't know about your but if you are saying that all it took you 3 hours and $70 worth of materials, you may want to tink about making them for extra money. I am sure you can sell them for $300-350 no problem.
How much would you charge to make one if i supply all the parts and pay for all the shipping?
BITESIZE
09-23-2006, 08:28 AM
I'd buy one for $200.
i wanna see the vid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
reanimator420
09-23-2006, 09:04 AM
id pay 200!! too and i also want to see the vid.
untill i find the time to srew with a dieing computer the vid wont be up soon.
as for manifolds....
i'll have to check on prices again... bends.
i'll have to order header flanges and t/3 flanges or what ever flange for the turbo you were going to use.
another question would be what wastegate flange if any?
if you all are interested.
the manifold on the pic is just something i threw together with bends and scrap steel.
if i was to sell and item like this it would have to look alittle more profesional
and would be more than $200.
I try not to do anything for under $40 an hour.
i'll start pricing everything tommarrow.
the maniflod on my car will be going up soon and i'll take 200+shipping.
as for orders i'll take 1 at a time when i deside to start production. consider it a waiting list. I will not ask for money till i am ready to ship.when i ship i prefer paypal, money order,western union.
damb it sounds like i am committing.
alote of it is how much time i have giving that i work 10-12 hour days in construction.
should i start a feeler thread?
gfrg88
09-24-2006, 07:23 PM
untill i find the time to srew with a dieing computer the vid wont be up soon.
as for manifolds....
i'll have to check on prices again... bends.
i'll have to order header flanges and t/3 flanges or what ever flange for the turbo you were going to use.
another question would be what wastegate flange if any?
if you all are interested.
the manifold on the pic is just something i threw together with bends and scrap steel.
if i was to sell and item like this it would have to look alittle more profesional
and would be more than $200.
I try not to do anything for under $40 an hour.
i'll start pricing everything tommarrow.
the maniflod on my car will be going up soon and i'll take 200+shipping.
as for orders i'll take 1 at a time when i deside to start production. consider it a waiting list. I will not ask for money till i am ready to ship.when i ship i prefer paypal, money order,western union.
damb it sounds like i am committing.
alote of it is how much time i have giving that i work 10-12 hour days in construction.
should i start a feeler thread?
i say you start a feeler thread. turbo manifolds would be awesome, maybe you can try some race headers for the carb guys, or the ones going for NA power. i would definately buy a turbo manifold :D
AccordEpicenter
09-25-2006, 09:18 AM
Im gonna have to see, i was thinking about using an SC61 but idk. How did the 62-1 spool? Im guessing .63 housing and stage 3 turbine? or maybe stage 5?
i noticed a large decrease in bottom end power with the .63 stage 3.
the car wasn't as violent as it was with the .48...
there was a noticeable increse on the top end but then you run out of rpm.
the powerband with the 62-1 was too narrow, unless you feel comfertible reving to 9 grand.
AccordEpicenter
09-26-2006, 04:24 PM
im gonna try a .63 stage 1 and see where it chokes the motor off (my guess is 350whp?) then ill try a stage 2 or 3. What rpm was the .63 stage 3 fully boosted by? Did you run that on the 60-1 and the 62-1? Im sure my (secret spec) compressor housing will flow over a 60-1
im gonna try a .63 stage 1 and see where it chokes the motor off (my guess is 350whp?) then ill try a stage 2 or 3. What rpm was the .63 stage 3 fully boosted by? Did you run that on the 60-1 and the 62-1? Im sure my (secret spec) compressor housing will flow over a 60-1
I would try a stage 2 unless you fab up a tuned manifold.
i may go ahead and keep the stage 3 but tune the manifold around 3500 rpm.
the 62-1 spooles at about 4000-4200 rpm.
isnt the t3/t04e 62-1 stage 3 rated at 700 hp?
my guess with the stage 1 it will run out at 400-425 at high boost.
one other thing about the 62-1...it comes alive past 14lbs.
manifolds....
i am looking around town for decently priced flanges, but if not i can make them.
AccordEpicenter
09-27-2006, 10:59 PM
Hmm i was thinking about using an SC61 precision turbo but the turbine sizes on them are HUGE. 4000-4200 isnt too bad, my .63 stage 1 was fully boosted by 4k ish. Im going for big power here, so 4000-4200 will work fine.
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/th_MOV00683.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/?action=view¤t=MOV00683.flv)
heres the video!
launch with street tires(pratice)
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/th_MOV00561.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/?action=view¤t=MOV00561.flv)
early morning run...
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/th_MOV00576.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k161/89turboaccord/?action=view¤t=MOV00576.flv)
these was before the upgrades
military mase
10-09-2006, 10:32 AM
nice vid... nice setup. I can't wait to get mt turbo put in as soon as i get back from the desert. That $h!t make me drool . My tuner is working on my dizzy while i'm gone but i'm going with the AEM EMS.
gfrg88
10-09-2006, 02:27 PM
that thing sounds fuking badass man!!!! get some better vids of the gauge cluster for us with good lighting. :thumbup:
MessyHonda
10-09-2006, 02:36 PM
YOur car is on Park.....lol...anyways nice vid...i like the practice run.
the vids could have been better but they'll do. my cam kinda sucks no zoom.
nice vid... nice setup. I can't wait to get mt turbo put in as soon as i get back from the desert. That $h!t make me drool . My tuner is working on my dizzy while i'm gone but i'm going with the AEM EMS.
first off you guys are doing a great job out there, keep up the good work.
thanks! it sure is addictive though..
are you doing a 4g dizzy?
let me know how the aem works out...
that thing sounds fuking badass man!!!! get some better vids of the gauge cluster for us with good lighting..
it does sound pretty cool, the 3" exhaust gave it a deeper tone.
i am glad that it doesn't sound like a typical coffee can honda.
i wish i had a better camera... i'll see what i can do though..
YOur car is on Park.....lol...anyways nice vid...i like the practice run.
I can pull the motor 2 times a year but I cant seem to switch the guage cluster...lol
that run wasnt too bad..traction was killing me.
gfrg88
10-10-2006, 07:10 AM
what was the time you ran in the one against the subaru??
I think it was like a 14.8 or a 14.9... at 4900 ft elev. correction factor of .9393
i couldent find the time slip..
military mase
10-10-2006, 07:53 AM
Yeah ,i'mdoing the 4g dizzy. my tuner is very electrially inclined. He does good work. Works mostly on Nissans thought but I'm gonna purchase the AEm EMS as soon as i get back. What kinda tires you running/psi. I know once you get up to a certain amount of whp traction sucks. That a FWD for yah. Are you dumping the clutch or feathering?
that vid was with street tires 20psi 205/17/45's
i was praticeing both ways..
the vid with the suby i was running drag radials at 18psi 205/50/14's
dumping the clutch with minimal slipage.
then i droped down to 12psi with no slippage.
update:
all right i have a couple of flanges getting water-jetted for an a20 header and garrett t/3 turbo 4 bolt and 5 bolt exhaust flanges. I am still looking for a good line on bends.
prices wont be posted yet.(Q.C.)
I am still waiting on the flanges,the guy doing them went to kans for a pinks episode.
but hopefully he'll get them done soon.
to start with i will build 1 log manifold to guage interest, and a tunned long tube manifold for me.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2/e41cq4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
i priced everything for this manifold and damb!! thats why they want $650 for them.... I am thinking i can do them alote cheaper depending on the time it takes to build one.. have to build 1 first then make a jig.
this manifold will have to have the following mods for it to work.
power steering pump removal.
ac pump removal and supporting parts.
civic half size radiator.
slim rad fan.
if you are interested in this manifold the removals and extra parts shouldnt be a problem for you.
as for the log manifold goes, i have seen all the pics faq page and you have seen mine.
where will be the best place for the exhaust flange?
keep in mind radiant heat from the turbo.....
I have not made a formal thread yet because of flange availibility...
If i like these flanges that are getting water jetted i will then order a bunch of them and get rolling.
all the pipe and bends will be made of sch 40 316 stainless steel.
please dont clutter this thread with sensless b/s please.
SQ is the SQUAD
10-29-2006, 09:06 AM
and you couldent get flanges from bmc race? thats where i got my flange for my new ram horn manifold. i am usening bends from ace stainless, the best prices i found. so far i am about $150 into supplies for the manifold.
newaccorddriver
10-29-2006, 09:34 AM
i had no idea how much supplies cost for making a manifold. so i guess i got a pretty decent deal on my manifold then.
what size of tubing are used for the runners usually?
hotdoghogie
10-29-2006, 09:41 AM
sick man... i bet that thing is crazy fast.... what kind of car is that TB off?
how much whp?
and you couldent get flanges from bmc race? thats where i got my flange for my new ram horn manifold. i am usening bends from ace stainless, the best prices i found. so far i am about $150 into supplies for the manifold.
I can get them there but i can get them cheeper here and w/out shipping.
post up them pic's when you are done...
i had no idea how much supplies cost for making a manifold. so i guess i got a pretty decent deal on my manifold then.
what size of tubing are used for the runners usually?
One step up from stock 1.5 inches...
sick man... i bet that thing is crazy fast.... what kind of car is that TB off?
how much whp?
It is pretty quick, havent had a chance to dyno due to problems...70mm off of a 5.0 mustang
gfrg88
10-29-2006, 03:05 PM
I can get them there but i can get them cheeper here and w/out shipping.
can you hook a brotha up??? pm me some info on where youre getting them made at since im out here too now :rockon: and maybe you can build me a manifold, or i can be your ginney(sp) pig :D
gfrg88
10-29-2006, 03:23 PM
I am still waiting on the flanges,the guy doing them went to kans for a pinks episode.
but hopefully he'll get them done soon.
to start with i will build 1 log manifold to guage interest, and a tunned long tube manifold for me.
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/2/e41cq4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
i priced everything for this manifold and damb!! thats why they want $650 for them.... I am thinking i can do them alote cheaper depending on the time it takes to build one.. have to build 1 first then make a jig.
this manifold will have to have the following mods for it to work.
power steering pump removal.
ac pump removal and supporting parts.
civic half size radiator.
slim rad fan.
if you are interested in this manifold the removals and extra parts shouldnt be a problem for you.
as for the log manifold goes, i have seen all the pics faq page and you have seen mine.
where will be the best place for the exhaust flange?
keep in mind radiant heat from the turbo.....
I have not made a formal thread yet because of flange availibility...
If i like these flanges that are getting water jetted i will then order a bunch of them and get rolling.
all the pipe and bends will be made of sch 40 316 stainless steel.
please dont clutter this thread with sensless b/s please.
is this for your car??? or are you gonna build one similar to this?!?
MessyHonda
10-29-2006, 03:51 PM
^^^that is if you used the header....i like his log mani....like you said you can be his ginney pig.
is this for your car??? or are you gonna build one similar to this?!?
that's what i am going to build for my car....
I was searching the net for ideas and i stummbled onto that one on ebay they wanted 650 for it..
If you were here in the springs i would use you for my ginney pig but seeing that i dont drive my car verry much in the winter i use her for for a guide....
ooh on the flange....in do time grasshopper.
messy you like the placement on my log?
MessyHonda
10-29-2006, 04:36 PM
messy you like the placement on my log?
yes i do 89turbo'ed
i asked for opinions and you are the first...
wprocomp
10-29-2006, 08:59 PM
paint the engine bay,other than that badass man good job
paint the engine bay,other than that badass man good job
right on... I'll add that to my list..
but i was talking turbo placement on a log manifold for the 3rd gen.
cool anyway.
newaccorddriver
10-30-2006, 05:08 PM
One step up from stock 1.5 inches...
so your using 1 5/8 inch piping?
no sir , i may have worded it improperly...lol
stock is slightly smaller than 1.5"....
all the pipe on the new turbo manifolds will be 1.5"
newaccorddriver
10-30-2006, 08:25 PM
no sir , i may have worded it improperly...lol
stock is slightly smaller than 1.5"....
all the pipe on the manifolds will be 1.5"
heh, i never knew stockers were 1.5
when you get flanges, sell me one of them, i wanna get rid of the current manifold i have now and make my own and see it explode
heh, i never knew stockers were 1.5
when you get flanges, sell me one of them, i wanna get rid of the current manifold i have now and make my own and see it explode
#103 has been edited....
no no their smaller...
I think i am going to have to bump up the order...lol
but ya no problem.
newaccorddriver
10-30-2006, 08:47 PM
what kinda material are they made out of? im not sure if mild steel would go good with stainless steel or anything like that. and i dont like the cast iron to steel manifold i have as those welds look piss poor at best
how much would a flange cost roughly?
(page 5 post 89)stainless steel pipe mild 3/8's or ss 3/8's flange.
price depends on how many i order....i will say the ss flange will be slightly more.
ya it is hard as fuk to weld cast to steel.,
well i guess this dubbed my build page so......
I tunned the old sleeper last night......
I am going to give you 2 sets of numbers..
#1 will be on a dyno dynamics dynamometer.
#2 will be corrected dyno jet numbers.
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/6581/november192006ie7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/3083/november1920062ci7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
this was tunned at 13.3 psi 49% injector duty cycle....
we could have pulled out more but it was getting late, the wives were calling...lol
check out the torque,its dam close to the max hp.
I would like to thank jeremy aka servion for the awsome tunning job, and adam aka thosemeddelingkids at revolutions tuning for the dyno time.... thanks guys....
MessyHonda
11-19-2006, 09:13 AM
wow man...nice numbers that is a real sleaper...lol so i guess an A-series engine is better than a h22 :thumbup:
Legend_master
11-19-2006, 09:23 AM
Nice numbers dude, the HP line is very smooth and I cant believe how much TQ you made. That is insane, becasue 2.0L b-series TQ numbers are always about 50 less then HP. Good build and do you plan on upping the boost anymore?
AccordEpicenter
11-19-2006, 09:44 AM
thats pretty much exactly what id guess my setup to be on the stock motor, you just have internals done right?
shepherd79
11-19-2006, 10:20 AM
what do you have for management?
I would like to know how they tunned it.
very nice numbers i like them a lot. good job.
bobafett
11-19-2006, 11:45 AM
awesome numbers man? shoot me an email (
[email protected]) with alllllll the details on your build and i will put up a web page for it. :)
Hash_man_Se_i
11-19-2006, 12:36 PM
Ummm.... Wow!! .... That power and torque curve is wicked. That thing must be awesome to drive, damn.
Keep up the good work!
has anyone thought about it?
we know that you can modify the ford dizzy to fit a a20..... I can vouch for that one...
now lets say you take the ecu, harness, and all the sensors from a 85-88 thunderbird turbo coupe and install them in to a accord.(88 uses maf sensor)
you'd be able to boost up to 20 lbs with out any extra tunning. no btm noting but the ecu.
course you'll still have to upgrade all the supporting mods for a turbo car.
the ford ecu also uses low impeadance peak and hold injectors.
there are tunning options such as the eecIV tunner.
Do you guy's think i am way off base here or is there something there..
edit: heres the eec tuner link. http://www.eec-tuner.com/products_choice.htm
heres another one this bad ass.. http://www.tweecer.com/CalEdit.htm
A20A1
11-24-2006, 11:54 PM
Cool the font they used in their logo "click here" is "Sofachrome"
same as our "3Geez".
anyways sound interesting.
First thing that comes to mind is firing order, but that can be reset via software or hardwiring via dizzy.
I know it can be done, just like any other given standalone and ECU hack. Didn't Sean use GM parts?
I think this is a hell of a lot more economical and straightforward then most setups though. Ford parts are hella cheap, especially from the JY. The MAF makes tuning a little easier. This might be one step forward from OBD1 conversion as well. ;)
yea sean used gm parts, the only differance is you can find the ford parts easier, and like you said alote cheaper.
firing order is easy to get around...all you have to do is switch plug wires around.
i was reading on turboford.org that they were doing DIS setup's also. If that is not a huge step in the right direction I dont know what is!
the mustang SVO has the same motor as the thunderbird.
Nice numbers dude, the HP line is very smooth and I cant believe how much TQ you made. That is insane, becasue 2.0L b-series TQ numbers are always about 50 less then HP. Good build and do you plan on upping the boost anymore?
i knew the torque #"S were going to be pritty high judging from the time slips i got earlier in the year. I was hoping for better hp #'s but i guess this will do.
I still need to simplify the ignition system, upgrade it were possible.pull the btm i think it is killing me on the upper end.(the reason for the drop off at 5800 rpm.)
as for boost yes after i build a tunned manifold, ignition mods,copper head gasket ,arp's,and possibly built head and custom turbo cam.
I am also looking into ways to reduce crank case and valve train pressure.
i know i can use the exhaust to pull vacume, or use a vacume pump but i am undecided.
If i get that figured out i will try to tune it to 18lbs and hope she holds up.
what do you have for management?
I would like to know how they tunned it.
very nice numbers i like them a lot. good job.
I am running the holley commander950 standalone with a modified ford distributer.
this dyno is totaly different from a standard dynojet. This dyno you can tune at 30 40 50 60 70 80 mph... basicly you set a speed at say 40mph and you can tune partial throttle, mid throttle, and full throttle.. the dyno wont let the wheel's travel any faster than what you set it at. also as you change mph you also move up or down in the rpm range. This thing is bad ass.
on a dynojet you make a pull stop and tune off a graph and hope you fixed an issue then make another run to see if you fixed it then tune it again if needed...and so on.
and thanks.
awesome numbers man? shoot me an email (
[email protected]) with alllllll the details on your build and i will put up a web page for it.
i'll get it to you soon.
I appreciate it.
Ummm.... Wow!! .... That power and torque curve is wicked. That thing must be awesome to drive, damn.
It's a handfull! Literally!
the tourque steer is crazy.
I think I'm more impressed with the torque curve than I am the peak HP. =)
That just shows how the A20's head flows though.
What is that, ~233ftlbs @ 4600RPM? Almost twice as much with an average amount of boost
yea i was hoping for at least 280 on hp,but those are the card's i got. not a bad deal though.
yup i need head work.
acctually the peak hp and peak tourque were almost exactly 10 off.
so that would mean 224 peak tourque.
that would explain the 1.7sec 60' times "torque".and a 14.2 at 85 mph verses 103-105 for the avarage low 14 sec run.
I just picked up a 4-g dizzy and thinking about trying neptune again.
looks like march 24 or 25 i'll be down getting some time slips.
hoping to pull low 13's to high 12's. If the tranny holds up.
gfrg88
03-12-2007, 03:10 PM
looks like march 24 or 25 i'll be down getting some time slips.
hoping to pull low 13's to high 12's. If the tranny holds up.
WERE?!?! i thought bandimere was openining up on april 29?!? GIVE ME SOME INFO!!! PM where youre going out to :rockon:
http://www.pueblomotorsportspark.com/pmidrag.htm
pueblo about 45min south of the springs.
sat is street tires and jr drag's.
sun is drag radial and slicks.
i am not sure which day i will be going yet.
bad news. i changed the oil in my trans yesterday, the oil came lookin a greenish lookin color. there was a bunch of metal flakes in the oil also.
this bad winter has killed me money wise so it will be awhile before i can get another trans.
so here is the question.
do i run it and run the risk of blowing it on the track?
or do i wait and get another and rebuild it?
mkymonkey
03-18-2007, 09:19 AM
wait
AccordEpicenter
03-18-2007, 09:49 AM
does it grind? Metal flakes are usually just syncro material, nothing fatal nessescerily. Just take 2 hands and put them on your inner cv joins and push them up and down, if they have alot of play in them your diff bearings are going out, but unless your diff bearings are going out or your tranny grinds, i would just leave the trans, its probably fine. My tranny was beat to shit and i only changed it because its missing an ear off the bottom case and there area about 12 stripped bolt holes on it (for real)
MessyHonda
03-18-2007, 10:17 AM
get a bad ass rebuild tranny...with carb gears
does it grind? Metal flakes are usually just syncro material, nothing fatal nessescerily. Just take 2 hands and put them on your inner cv joins and push them up and down, if they have alot of play in them your diff bearings are going out, but unless your diff bearings are going out or your tranny grinds, i would just leave the trans, its probably fine. My tranny was beat to shit and i only changed it because its missing an ear off the bottom case and there area about 12 stripped bolt holes on it (for real)
2nd gear is getting hard to get into on a hard pull. no real grinding but it wont go in sometimes. i'll check the diff tommarrow night, today is family day.
thanks for the advice.
get a bad ass rebuild tranny...with carb gears
i will admit that the trans is my weakness. so where would i need to go to get a bad ass rebuild?
i thought the teg swap was the way to go?
whitch trans is it any way. the d16zc or the b18a?
MessyHonda
03-18-2007, 12:11 PM
i will admit that the trans is weakness. so where would i need to go to get a bad ass rebuild?
i thought the teg swap was the way to go?
whitch trans is it any way. the d16zc or the b18a?
short gears are for NA cars. the carb gears are the longest gears so the turbo spools up and you dont run out of RPM.
and yeah the 1st gen teg gears fit our trans..but i would not recomend it...ive been in Openloops car with teg gears...you are doing like 60mph@3000rpm in 5th gear.
AccordEpicenter
03-18-2007, 01:32 PM
im gonna say teg gears are a no no on a boosted accord, they will be wayyy short. If youre na they might do the trick but in reality, any carb or fi accord trans should do the trick. A lude SI tranny might not be that bad either, because 3rd 4th and 5th are a little shorter. Right now im running a carbed trans, and it has slightly longer gears than my old lxi trans, so 1st gear/2nd gear are more useable.
EDIT: Sloppy shifter bushings can make it hard to find gears somtimes also
thanks guys! it looks like the carb'ed trans is the way to go.
any specific year or model?
Prelude Transmission on Accord (+gear ratio)
You can use the gen2 prelude (84-87) transmission on your Accord
It has a more performance oriented gear ratio (the higher the number, the shorter the gear)
However, if you use the transmission from a 1.8L engine, you will need to change the flyhweel, pressure plate and the clutch since they are smaller. If you're affraid about the clutch not being strong enough, replace it with a performance clutch and it will hold more than you need to. The 1.8L flywheel is also lighter.
'85 Lude (carb):
1- 3.181
2- 1.944
3- 1.250
4- 0.933
5- 0.757
FD 4.071 (86-87 carb FD is 3.875)
Si Lude:
1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.250
4- 0.937
5- 0.771
FD 4.066
88 LXi:
1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.208
4- 0.878
5- 0.694
FD 4.066 (including all autos)
carb manual FD is 3.866
Thanks to Night for this information.
when i swapped to a manual i used the 88 lxi trans because of this thread.
so what i am getting at is i need the 85 lude (carb)?
EricW
03-18-2007, 07:27 PM
The longest gears are in the 86-87 carbs (dx,lx) because the final drive is smaller.
AccordEpicenter
03-19-2007, 02:47 PM
86-89 carbed trans are all the same so far as i know... You dont want to use an 85 lude carb tranny it wont work
mikes87lude
05-27-2007, 09:58 AM
Hi 89turbo'ed I'm noob, I mean, new to the site. Just read the post, and it is very incouraging. I have an '87 lude si and am in the process of turbo charging. My head is P&P, intake is port matched, and I'm running MegaSquirt. The only issue I have is ignition timing control. I could go with a BTM, but if I can use MS to control the ignition I would like to. My question is, how good do you feel about the amount of timing control you get with the '86 Tempo dizzy? The mod seems simple enough, take both dizzys to a machine shop and tell them make this one like that one. If it is effective I may try it. After all it would be more simple than what I was going to atempt, which is setup the motor to run GM DIS ignition. Again props on the thread.
Mike
AccordEpicenter
05-28-2007, 05:36 AM
the GM DIS setup has also been done on an A20 but it required the use of a custom made crank trigger. Its probably the most accurate ignition ive seen yet for this motor but as long as you get rid of the stock vacuum advance dizzy when you go turbo and go to some kind computer controlled ignition you should be fine. Ive used the BTM and it does work but i would like to have more control over timing if i was gonna run more than like 12psi or so, its kind of a ballpark device
Hi 89turbo'ed I'm noob, I mean, new to the site. Just read the post, and it is very incouraging. I have an '87 lude si and am in the process of turbo charging. My head is P&P, intake is port matched, and I'm running MegaSquirt. The only issue I have is ignition timing control. I could go with a BTM, but if I can use MS to control the ignition I would like to. My question is, how good do you feel about the amount of timing control you get with the '86 Tempo dizzy? The mod seems simple enough, take both dizzys to a machine shop and tell them make this one like that one. If it is effective I may try it. After all it would be more simple than what I was going to atempt, which is setup the motor to run GM DIS ignition. Again props on the thread.
Mike
hey mike the ease of instillation on the ford eec-IV dizz is A+++++!
i messed around with a hand full of honda dizzy's and i have came to the conclusion that they are a pain in the ass.
i am not real familliar with the megasquirt management, but i can lead you in the right direction to use the ford dizzy with that management.
go to this site www.turboford.org (http://www.turboford.org) there are a bunch of people using megasquirt.
note the came key only goes one direction.........
good luck with you'r build.
ooh the amount of timing control excelent.
mikes87lude
05-28-2007, 11:02 AM
....Ive used the BTM and it does work but i would like to have more control over timing if i was gonna run more than like 12psi or so, its kind of a ballpark device.....
I plan on running 10 to 12 psi. I'll be using a small T3 (.42/.48) compressor which is only good for about 15 psi before it runs out of breath. The reason I don't want to use a BTM is because it is a "ballpark" form of control, not to menton the price tag that is attahced to it. Money wouldn't be an issue if it was dead on accurate. I just can't see spending the amount of money I have, and will, spend on this build just to have the motor blow and need to be rebuilt. All because of an inaccurate tune.
Can you point me to who has done a GM DIS mod?
mikes87lude
05-28-2007, 11:09 AM
...i messed around with a hand full of honda dizzy's and i have came to the conclusion that they are a pain in the ass....
i am not real familliar with the megasquirt management, but i can lead you in the right direction to use the ford dizzy with that management.
go to this site www.turboford.org (http://www.turboford.org) there are a bunch of people using megasquirt.
note the came key only goes one direction.........
good luck with you'r build.
ooh the amount of timing control excelent.
I've been reading about people trying to fit F22 dizzys, but that seems like a major bitch to accomplish. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. If the ford dizzy works as well as DIS or EDIS I may use it. Then people who know honda motors will be like WTF, like I was when I saw the pics you posted of yours. Nice work.
Mike
I've been reading about people trying to fit F22 dizzys, but that seems like a major bitch to accomplish. Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. If the ford dizzy works as well as DIS or EDIS I may use it. Then people who know honda motors will be like WTF, like I was when I saw the pics you posted of yours. Nice work.
Mike
i am looking into the dis ignition systems right now using a cam trigger.
may be in the near future i'll have part's list,or even sell kits.
i have spent alote of time and money, i hope someone can benifit from it.
mikes87lude
05-29-2007, 06:37 PM
i am looking into the dis ignition systems right now using a cam trigger.
may be in the near future i'll have part's list,or even sell kits.
i have spent alote of time and money, i hope someone can benifit from it.
Keep me posted. I like to benifit from other peoples experience whenever possable. If you go the cam trigger rought you might need to do a little research at the MS website. I believe I read there that you need to use two rings and triggers, because of the difference in RPM between the cam and crank. I could be wrong, but I belive that's what they said. Which is the reason I decided against putting the sensor on the cam instead of the crank.
it seems i have appropreated some new toy's! i'll try and get pic's tonight!!:devil:
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/8272/blackhonda012hn2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/7574/blackhonda013lw9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8027/blackhonda014hb8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/9832/blackhonda015be1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/1821/blackhonda018ro0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6967/blackhonda020vi4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/3750/blackhonda021hv1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5104/blackhonda022bq9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/5594/blackhonda023wp0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
ooh and cant for get this!
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/4725/blackhonda024bm7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
so what do you guys think?
it almost looks like a pro car in person minus the cheap paint job.
i need to find 2 more ls mesh wheel's to make a set. If any one has any hit me up.
wow those wheels are sexxxay!
MessyHonda
07-19-2007, 08:37 PM
yeah i like the mesh rims.
Civic Accord Honda
07-19-2007, 09:26 PM
IMO i liked the old rims beter lol but istill love the meshs lol and DAMN YOUR CAR IS SEXY!!!!
the mesh wheel's and tires are for the drag strip.(235/60/15)http://www.mandhtires.com/store.php
wrinkle wall ftw!
thanks guy's!
AccordEpicenter
07-20-2007, 05:09 PM
thumbs up on the wheel/tire combo. Ill have to check that out, for real. And mikes87lude, if youre running higher than 10-12psi boost in the long run, id highly reccomend upgrading to at least a t3 60/63, that 42/48 is a little on the small size for mid-high boost
thanks bro. i think i'll have to put in 20mm or 25mm spacer's on the wheels, and lift the car alittle bit to make sure that the tire wont hit the upper control arm when the tires expand.
the turbo i have on is the 62-1,but i changed the exhaust wheel and housing to a 48 for a quicker spool.
worse comes to worse i'll put the stage III wheel and 63ar housing back in.
the original 62-1 doesent get into it's efficiancy till 14.5psi, and it seem's the turbo isn't even breaking a sweat at 13.8psi with the 48ar housing and wheel.
with the combonation i am running right now i should be able to hit the 400-450 mark without exceeding 20-25psi. i guess the dyno will tell all.
On a off note. i still need to hit the j/y for a trans i might be able to pick you up a crank if you still need one.lmk
well alittle update ....
as you all know i was having tranny and clutch problems.
i picked up an aluminum flywheel, clutch net 6 puck with presure plate,and a pg lsd from mcfly.
bullard123 helped out with his old a20 tranny.
thanks guy's!
as of last night the clutch and flywheel are in and the tranny is tore down,and almost ready for the lsd.
after alittle cleanup tonight the lsd is going in and the tranny will be put back together.
next week i am going to try and get on the dyno and see the differance in tq/hp with the lighter flywheel and tune in the cam gear.
omfg! i am glad i put the power steering back in.
I got the clutch,flywheel, Phantom grip and trans installed yestrday . you wouldent belive the differance. the car doesnt sling you'r arm from side to side anymore . it pull's straight. It revs like 3 times faster then before and seems to put you in the seat even more than before.
the clutch has a violent engagement but it no longer slips under full boost. The other thing i noticed was it is harder to steer with the lsd.
i can post some pics if anyone is interested.
bullard123
08-27-2007, 04:49 AM
omfg! i am glad i put the power steering back in.
I got the clutch,flywheel, Phantom grip and trans installed yestrday . you wouldent belive the differance. the car doesnt sling you'r arm from side to side anymore . it pull's straight. It revs like 3 times faster then before and seems to put you in the seat even more than before.
the clutch has a violent engagement but it no longer slips under full boost. The other thing i noticed was it is harder to steer with the lsd.
i can post some pics if anyone is interested.
Cool man!! I'm glad everything worked out bettter this time.
i can post some pics if anyone is interested.
I'm interested!!!
MessyHonda
08-27-2007, 09:43 AM
omfg! i am glad i put the power steering back in.
I got the clutch,flywheel, Phantom grip and trans installed yestrday . you wouldent belive the differance. the car doesnt sling you'r arm from side to side anymore . it pull's straight. It revs like 3 times faster then before and seems to put you in the seat even more than before.
the clutch has a violent engagement but it no longer slips under full boost. The other thing i noticed was it is harder to steer with the lsd.
i can post some pics if anyone is interested.
i dont want pics i want videos!!!!!!
DDRaptor
08-27-2007, 10:20 AM
i dont want pics i want videos!!!!!!
:stupid: ditto
2oodoor
08-27-2007, 10:37 AM
Can you point me to who has done a GM DIS mod?
anybody know where to find some of this information for GM DIS for 4 cyl
bobafett
08-27-2007, 01:43 PM
search the forum for posts made by a user named 'sean' or 'funstick'
i dont want pics i want videos!!!!!!
i hope some pic's from the install will sufice for now. I am trying to get on the dyno this week to tune in the cam gear and see what kind of differance the lighter flywheel made and possibly turn up the boost alittle. i'll get you a video of that.
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/6813/lsdclutchinstall003is9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5605/lsdclutchinstall004bs0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7968/lsdclutchinstall006bs5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
give me a min. i got some more.
that steak was good!
those were pic's of he teardown
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/8341/lsdclutchinstall002am8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/4215/lsdclutchinstall005kx7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/6986/lsdclutchinstall006et4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/3374/lsdclutchinstall001fy7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/8820/lsdclutchinstall007rg2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
this is where it get's interesting.
this is what lsd looks like
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6166/lsdclutchinstall008di1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/5084/lsdclutchinstall009sr2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
i had to remove the clips with a vice to remove the springs and install the upgradded springs
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8369/lsdclutchinstall012qc0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/8136/lsdclutchinstall014jo5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
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