Replacing brake hard lines

[Sabz5150]

Tack another one onto the list of Sabz-o-issues...

Well, in an attempt to swap my brake lines to my new stainless ones, I wound up stripping one of the flare nuts on the brake hard lines. Fortunately I can still drive my car, as the line was never removed. Unfortunately... I have to replace the hard line.

The only one I did this on was the front driver's side. I'm just wondering if anyone has had to do this and how hard it will be to do (I expect it to be rather annoying). Are there any pointers you guys can hand out to help me with swapping brake lines. I used the proper flare nut wrench, it's just the damn thing was all rusty and stuck on there.

Should I go ahead and PB blaster the hell out of the other ones and hope for the best?

[carotman]

Is this on the front or rear of the car?

[shepherd79]

if you can get it out, you can replace the whole hard line. got to advance auto and they should be able to match it.
they come as straight, but if you can get small cheap brake line bender and bend it yourself.
the hard brake lines are cheap.

[Sabz5150]

Is this on the front or rear of the car?

Front.

[Vanilla Sky]

can't you cut the nut off, cut the old flare off, stick a new nut on, and reflare the existing hardline?

[Jasonf860]

:)
can't you cut the nut off, cut the old flare off, stick a new nut on, and reflare the existing hardline?
I've done quite a few hard-lines before. Usually the stock or existing hard-lines are hardened steel. Near impossible to flare using a hand flare tool. But there is a trick..... Ready? cut it off nice and square, deburr the line and make sure it's ready to flare. Slide the new nut on and get out your propane torch. Heat the end of the line that you want to flare till it is glowing red and then let it cool. This will soften the steel enough so you can flare it. I usually heat it once more and flare it while it is still warm. Then you can join it back with whatever you want. i'll tell you now, it's damn near impossible to get the new hard-line back in the same place as the factory did. Remember, theirs are pre-bent and done when the car is near bare with no engine or tranny.

[carotman]

If it's a front line, I would just replace it with a good junkyard unit or a new from the dealer. The passenger side is the easier to replace. The other front line isn't that hard too.

[Sabz5150]

If it's a front line, I would just replace it with a good junkyard unit or a new from the dealer. The passenger side is the easier to replace. The other front line isn't that hard too.

That means I had better not screw up the rear ones :)

[carotman]

The rear ones would be a pain to replace. They run INSIDE the vehicule. You basically need to remove the dashboard, seats and carpet to replace them. If you ever brake a rear line, it's easier to replace the broken section. The front ones do not deserve the hassle of flaring.

[alboy86]

i have a small leak with the middle one of the three in the front its the one that runs from the valve on the passenger side down alone the fire wall to the master cylinder its got a tink leak from the intake rubbing against it how is the best way of replaceing it do most auto parts places carry the lines

[alboy86]

the leak is so small you cant even see it unless you hit the brake then it shoots all over should i just unscrew the line from the valve then cut it off and flare it out and put a new one on

[MessyHonda]

i would replace it...and get a better intake. that wont rub

[2ndGenGuy]

There is a special wrench you can buy just for taking those nuts off of the lines. I think it's called a flare nut wrench or something, but I'm not 100% sure (yeah real helpful eh?).

Either way, pick one up thats the right size and it might still do the trick. I thought that I stripped the one out on my car doing new hoses, until my friend showed me that wrench. It grabs on to all six sides of the nut and might still get it off. It worked well enough for me that I could still tighten it down and get it loose again, using that wrench.

[alboy86]

im gunna pick up one of those flare nut wrenchs 10mm i think im gunna try to cut it and flare the end and replace that part of the line can you buy the whole line pre bent or do they come straight

[alboy86]

well changed my mind gunna do the whole thing doesnt look hard i think bending it and matching it wil be the hardest thing

[alboy86]

quick question does the parking brake go off a cable cause im jacking up the car and i took all the brake fluid out and im having trouble geting the dam flare nut off the master cylinder i have a 10mm flare nut wrench but it just spins ans strips the nut

[2ndGenGuy]

Yes the parking brake is cable driven.

Bummer about those master cylinder connections man, that's going to be interesting. They're very soft, so you have to really be careful and take your time. They can't take a lot of torque.

[alboy86]

well i got the fittings out had to saw off the line then take out the whole master cylinder now i got the new line i dont think im gunna make al those bends it was a pain to take out behind the engine and suggestions on how to bend the new line im gunna use some of the clips that hold it but not all of them