PDA

View Full Version : Manual Transmission shifting problem



Blaaz
11-28-2006, 11:05 AM
My '89 Accord w/5 speed manual won't shift with the engine running.
It was fine. I was driving it when I went to shift from 2nd to 3rd.
It came out of 2nd, but wouldn't go into 3rd. Coasted the car to a side
street. I disengaged the clutch and re-engaged it. Still the car would
not shift into any gear.

I turned off the engine and was able to put it into first gear. I stepped on the clutch, said a prayer, and started the car. It drove fine in first gear to get the car home. The car will shift into all gears with the engine off.
Probably way overdue for a clutch. 217,000 miles on the original clutch.
I just want to drive the car to the shop, but it is a long way to go in
first gear.

Any suggestions?
Thanks.

'89AccordLX(Rus)
11-28-2006, 11:16 AM
If you can start off in first gear and using the clutch, but are not able to change gears, you might just need to adjust the clutch cable. If it does not disengage the clutch completely, you won't be able to put the car into gear. There is an adjustment nut on the clutch actuator lever on the front of the transmission. You can access it from the top of the engine bay. Tighten up the cable and see if the issue is resolved. And you are correct, 217,000 miles is probably a good time to change the clutch. HTH

Blaaz
11-28-2006, 11:41 AM
If you can start off in first gear and using the clutch, but are not able to change gears, you might just need to adjust the clutch cable. If it does not disengage the clutch completely, you won't be able to put the car into gear. There is an adjustment nut on the clutch actuator lever on the front of the transmission. You can access it from the top of the engine bay. Tighten up the cable and see if the issue is resolved. And you are correct, 217,000 miles is probably a good time to change the clutch. HTH
I am familiar with the adjustment knob. Do you remember if I should turn
it clockwise or counter clockwise? I know one raises the grabbing point and the other lowers it, but never remember which is which.

POS carb
11-28-2006, 01:45 PM
The clutch is not disangaging. Check the cable slack setting.
This can also be caused by broken clutch parts or a flywheel bolt that came loose and is flying around in there.

Happened to me once, I had to drive all the way to the mechanic like that. Start the engine in 1st gear and power shift all the way (ex: when shifting from 1st to 2nd you need to do the shift before the motor slows too much and it only seems to work while the revs are coming down, so if it won't catch easily, rev it up once in neutral and try to slip it into 2nd as the RPMs drop.)

Blaaz
12-15-2006, 08:51 AM
Well, the car was towed to the shop and clutch replaced. I'm happy to have my car back.

I tried adjusting the cable. I didn't appear to work. So, before the flatbed arrived, I put it in reverse and started the car. The car jumped a little. I took the parking brake off and started it again. A little jump, then the car was fine. I backed out of the garage and put it up against the curb. Then I noticed that the car shifted fine. I drove is up and down the block - going first, second and third. I was going to cancel the tow, but since it was already on the way, figured I would err on the side of being conservative.

Thanks for all the help.

ghettogeddy
12-15-2006, 08:57 AM
were at in the east bay are u
i would have helpu do the clutch i just did my tranny last weekend

Blaaz
12-15-2006, 09:07 AM
I live in Union City. Saw another 3Geez with a site sticker around the corner a couple months ago.

I took the car to Precision Auto Repair in Pleasanton. Fantastic shop.

My front rotors are wearing out faster than the pads. I am thinking about upgrading the rotors and pads in the future. Need to study the forum for recommendations first.

MessyHonda
12-15-2006, 09:15 AM
I live in Union City. Saw another 3Geez with a site sticker around the corner a couple months ago.
I took the car to Precision Auto Repair in Pleasanton. Fantastic shop.
My front rotors are wearing out faster than the pads. I am thinking about upgrading the rotors and pads in the future. Need to study the forum for recommendations first.

that easy...like geddy said we can go help you....my front drilled and sloted disks with AEM pads(one of the best sets up for stock replacement) cost me like 200 bucks shipped.

here is a pic....they look better with the rims off..lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v650/Messybone/LX-i/DSCF2148Small.jpg

ghettogeddy
12-15-2006, 10:20 AM
lol i also aem pads with brembo oem replacements paid about 100 shipped for everything

MessyHonda
12-15-2006, 11:55 AM
lol i also aem pads with brembo oem replacements paid about 100 shipped for everything


that is cuz yours is the smaller rotor....but yeah i think you can get brembo for the lx-i for like 40 bucks each side....or ask picopop if he can get any.