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View Full Version : Solved one issue by replacing my 10v battery with a new 12v one, but now a new issue!



gsus
01-03-2007, 10:14 AM
For the last couple of weeks, my car would have trouble starting up after about 5-6 hours. I'd have a battery pack with jumper cables to start in the morning. So I took the battery to the AutoZone yesterday, and remove the battery from the car to get it tested, It tested low, at 10v (probably why the car wouldn't start after a while :p).

So I buy a new battery then and there. Go outside, install it, close the hood, and get in the car and go to start the car.... It cranks, 'starts', but immediately shuts off... I try to start it again, and I get the same thing... Third time is the charm because it starts right up. So I get home, park the car and make sure that the car still starts up after I shut it off... it does. So, this morning I'm already running late for work and I get in the car, confident that the car will start right up- NOPE! It did the same thing again, cranked and died twice, but started on the third try.

Something must be causing it to do this, I just don’t know what. Do you guys have any ideas?

russiankid
01-03-2007, 10:25 AM
This sounds like a fuel issue. My guess would be that your fuel pump is going bad.

gsus
01-03-2007, 10:30 AM
lol.... dammit this car is starting to turn in to my troublesome old 89 Accord... problem after problem, guess thats what I get for buying a $200 car. Is there a simple way of testing the fuel pump?

ghettogeddy
01-03-2007, 10:35 AM
So instead of jumping in and trying to start it on the first turn quick the key in turn it to the on position and let it sit there for five sec's then start it it should turn over on the first try if not youp fuel pump is going out or it might be time For new filters

gsus
01-03-2007, 10:49 AM
^^^ I'll try that when I get out of work. I replaced the fuel filter last year in March, how often do those need to be changed? Also, can auto part store fuel pumps be trusted, or is it something you want to get from the dealer?

russiankid
01-03-2007, 11:40 AM
When my brother had my car, he changed the fuel filters ever 15-20,000 miles. I believe there is no problem with auto part store fuel filters, but i like to use Fram fuel filters. They seem to work well, but not so much on the oil filters. Also what Ghettogeddy said is correct, if you have the key in the ON position for about 5 seconds, that pretty much starts up the fuel pump to put fuel into the engine.




P.S. You can buy your fuel filter from the dealer, but i don't see the point in that.

shepherd79
01-03-2007, 02:45 PM
aftermarket fuel pumps and filters work just fine.
I replace my fuel filter ones a year, but it is because i am too lazy to drop the tank and flush it out.

if you have vacuum pump, check the fuel pressure regulator. make sure it holds the vacuum.

MessyHonda
01-03-2007, 09:36 PM
yeah vac pump FTW...the fuel pump should have like 30psi

ahmad89
01-04-2007, 07:18 AM
i always prime my car before i start it, just turn it to the position right before you start the car wait till the peeping stops, i wait an extra 3 seconds then start it.

shepherd79
01-04-2007, 09:10 AM
i always prime my car before i start it, just turn it to the position right before you start the car wait till the peeping stops, i wait an extra 3 seconds then start it.

for the carb guys, you have to pump the gas pedal 2-3 times before you start the car. this will send gas for easy starting.

for EFI guys, all you have to do is turn it on, wait a few seconds for the pump to prime and start the car.

gsus
01-04-2007, 09:47 AM
I dont have a vacuum pump, to test it... i could probably borrow one from the mechanic shop next door. All that would be testing is the FPR right?

Also, i tried the 5 second thing... started right up :).

russiankid
01-04-2007, 12:03 PM
I dont have a vacuum pump, to test it... i could probably borrow one from the mechanic shop next door. All that would be testing is the FPR right?

Also, i tried the 5 second thing... started right up :).
If you did the 5-second thing and it started up then don't worry about the pump. This shows that you didn't prime the engine so it had no fuel to burn.

gsus
01-04-2007, 01:08 PM
:(... So what you are basically telling me is that I may have a problem elsewhere? Bad injectors? bad coil? bad fpr?

also, i forgot to mention that when the car was shutting off on my right after starting up... when the engine would shut off, so would all the electronics. Does that narrow down my problem any? and i say problem, because i used to be able to just hop in and start the car... and all of a sudden after changing the battery i get this :cry:

MessyHonda
01-04-2007, 08:16 PM
when was the last time you changed your sparkplugs...wires cap and rotor?

gsus
01-05-2007, 07:58 AM
when was the last time you changed your sparkplugs...wires cap and rotor?

I bought the battery that I replaced 2 years ago, the new one was bought just this week
I got new wires & NGK copper plugs on the 3rd of December.
I changed the Fuel Filter, Cap & Rotor last year around March.

Blkblurr
01-05-2007, 10:07 AM
Sounds like your ignition switch block is going bad. This is easy to change and does not cost much to do.

Tecknixia
01-08-2007, 07:38 PM
"also, i forgot to mention that when the car was shutting off on my right after starting up... when the engine would shut off, so would all the electronics. Does that narrow down my problem any?" ... "and all of a sudden after changing the battery i get this :cry: "

I would recheck your connections at the battery terminals... and clean them to get rid of any corrosion. If the wires that connect to the battery look at all corroded, I would replace them. A bad connection here would cause what you described. It's highly suspect especially since it was involved while replacing the battery, which is when the problem started.

gsus
01-10-2007, 09:54 AM
I would recheck your connections at the battery terminals... and clean them to get rid of any corrosion. If the wires that connect to the battery look at all corroded, I would replace them. A bad connection here would cause what you described. It's highly suspect especially since it was involved while replacing the battery, which is when the problem started.

hmmm... there was some corrosion on the negative post with the old battery. i cleaned off the battery as best as i could... but i didnt check the actual ground cable for corrosion. I guess i'll be checking that ASAP.

POS carb
01-10-2007, 10:21 AM
it could be the ignition switch, the fuel pump relay, or the pump. I think the cheapest way to test is to hook up a volt meter to the fuel pump and check the action. The relay is most likely at fault.

Tecknixia
01-15-2007, 04:12 PM
Are you still having the problem?

If the electronics are shutting off every time the car shuts off, then it's not the fuel pump or the main relay. It could be the ignition switch, but it seems weird that the problem only started when you changed the battery.

If the car wouldn't stay running at all, I could suspect a partially blown main fuse... which could allow cranking surges, but not a constant regular voltage. However, since the car does run sometimes, I'm doubtful about that being the problem.

I still wonder about the battery cables... and if you replace those, and still have the problem, then I would try ANOTHER battery just to be sure. I have heard of "new" batterys causing problems too. I remember one time I helped jump a lady's car, and it had top posts and side posts. Using one or the other made the difference of whether or not I could jump her car. Weird.