ARP Head Bolts

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

I was wondering what head bolts or studs are the guys with turbos using. Can you give me a link to where i can get them at? What are my choices?

[shepherd79]

they are ARP. I think they said they mached up to Mazda MX5 or something like that. call arp and tell them to mach up with mazda headbolts.

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

I think i read that 98-00 miata head studs work, but i want to be sure before i spend $100.

[azazel_18_2]

They are the 98-00 miata head bolts

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

It says head studs because they will hold up better under higher boost.

[shepherd79]

that is right, when you call ARP, they will send you head studs. they are better and stronger.

[MessyHonda]

yeah the miata ones match that is what bobafet is using

[cygnus x-1]

head studs (ARP 218-4703) - importperformanceparts.net - $89

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[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

head studs (ARP 218-4703) - importperformanceparts.net - $89

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Are those the miata ones?

[bobafett]

http://importperformanceparts.net/imports/arp_headstudsmazda.html

yes its the right ones (218-4703) for the 98-00 2.0L motor.

tighten them in 2 phases first around 45 lbs then to 65 ft lbs, IF you are using the ARP grease (which comes with the studs, there is enough grease for several head swaps...)

[cygnus x-1]

That little packet of ARP grease goes a long way. You will also need a 1/2" 12 point socket for the nuts. For some reason NONE of the auto parts stores in my area have 12 point sockets. Had to go to Home Despot.

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[bobafett]

and let me EMPHASIZE IN BOLD LETTERS:

make 100% damn sure that all of the holes in the block for the studs are 100% dry and clean. this took me a long long time cause my block already had water in it and i kept trying to dry the holes out by spraying compressed air into it, and it would hit the water jackets lol. my HG leaked because bolts werent torqued well enough because they cannot torque down water/oil in those holes.

my currently preferred method of drying/cleaning is taking a big box of q-tips and go to town. you install the studs with an allen wrench and you can really tell the difference when installing the stud into a properly cleaned/dried set of threads. when you get to the bottom YOU KNOW.... when you try to tighten on water you will be unsure if it is tight enough, and you will keep torquing, but it wont matter, as soon as the engine block heats up, the water makes its way of the threads, and low and behold, your studs are now not tight, which causes WATER LEAKS! ask me how i know lol.

[newaccorddriver]

like the topic says. im not used to seeing head studs on a car, so im not sure how i install them in the block.

[BITESIZE]

You uhhhhh......Screw them in. Then you thread on the nut, and you're done....never done this so I hope I'm right?

[newaccorddriver]

You uhhhhh......Screw them in. Then you thread on the nut, and you're done....never done this so I hope I'm right?


screw them in hand tight or what?

[newaccorddriver]

i hate to bring this thread back up, but i just picked up my ARP studs today, and i dont really get the instruction booklet. it says to screw the studs into the block hand tight only, is that all it takes to keep the stud in place?!

also, what is that little packet of grease used for? all the info might be whats needed to install the studs and such, but to me, the info is pretty vague

[bobafett]

well i did all of mine hand tight and then snugged them up with an allen wrench to make sure that there was nothing binding them (debris in the threads etc). if you snug them up this way, when you feel them touch the block, you will KNOW they are as far as they can go. if you feel them gradually get tighter and tighter, then you know there is moisture or something at the bottom of the hole, and you need to start over with cleaning them out.

its a really obvious feeling when they hit, and when they do, there is not point in tightening them anymore.

[cygnus x-1]

Yep, they're threaded only hand tight into the block. The tension created by torqueing the nuts down holds the studs in place.

The grease is for the nuts. It creates a consistent low friction surface so that the studs will have the correct tension on them when the nuts are torqued down. After the studs are threaded into the block, put some grease on the top end of the threads, the bottoms of the nuts, and both sides of the washers. Torque the nuts to 65ft-lbs and use the torque sequence specified by the factory service manual.

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