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SQ is the SQUAD
09-04-2002, 11:08 AM
i just put on my new headgasket and i am going to replace all the belts while i have them off. my first question which piston is the number one so i can move it to tdc. i cannot find my haynes manual. the pistons i call them 1-2-3-4 going from the distributor to the cam gear. pistons 1 and 4 move up and down together while 2 and 2 move down together. if i set the mark on the crank to tdc will the correct pistons automatically be correct? no, for setting the seat is all i gotta do is put the cam gear to the timing mark, any info will help, i already read the how to on the head gasket, it really dident help much

anchovies
09-04-2002, 11:15 AM
1 is on the pulley side
4 near distributor

SQ is the SQUAD
09-04-2002, 12:39 PM
so when i am aligning the crank pully to tdc, both pistons 1 and 4 should be tdc since they travel together? when i put the crank to tdc will pistons 4 and 1 automatically be at the top? or is it a possability that when the crank is on the tdc makr pistons 2 and 3 can be at the top

YK86
09-04-2002, 12:43 PM
When you align the mark on the flywheel/drive plate to TDC, your #1 piston (closest to the timing belt) will be up at the top along with #4. The "TOP" mark on the cam gear should be lined up with the valve cover bolt down post.

SQ is the SQUAD
09-04-2002, 02:20 PM
thanks,thats all i needed to know, well excpt whats the esiest way to get the harmonic balancer offthat 17mm bolt that turns the crank. how can i get that off without moving the crank, my tbelt os already offthe top of the head, maybe ill just put it back on and hold the cam gear while i turn the crank

AZmike
09-04-2002, 03:46 PM
The Haynes manual says to stick a sturdy screwdriver in the timing hole and wedge it into the ring gear. That didn't work for me very well, but my bolt (19 mm) was really stuck. What I did was put the tranny in 5th and had someone else step on the brakes. Once the transmission spools up a little you can pull as hard as you want. It's not the best for you transmission I'm sure, but I figured that a broken timing belt would be much worse. I had to use my legs and an 18in breaker bar, but I got it loose.

YK86
09-04-2002, 06:46 PM
I use a chain style strap wrench (about $15-$20) made by the same company that makes Vise-grips. I wrap it around the crank pulley to keep it from moving and use a long breaker bar with a pipe on the end and one of my impact sockets to break the bolt loose. I also spray a bit of WD40 an hour before I work on it.

SQ is the SQUAD
09-04-2002, 07:01 PM
ill try the traany thing tomarrow, i am gonna have to borrow a braker bar and an impact socket

SQ is the SQUAD
09-08-2002, 10:08 AM
still havent got that damn crank pulley off, any other suggestions?

rocky2
09-08-2002, 02:09 PM
To find tdc on the 3-g take out #1 plug: closest" to timing belt
insert finger in hole then turn engine in proper direction when you feel compression line up as YK86 says.

2 ways of stopping engine from free wheeling when attempting to loosen crank pully 17mm bolt.

1. On compression stroke say of #1 piston .....fill spark plug hole with motor oil and put spark plug back in. This will become a HYDRO_LOCK. Can't compress oil.
2. Insert rope down into spark plug hole allowing a small protion to pretrude now turn engine over until it locks...remove bolt.
2 1/2 bolt is a bitch to loosen GOD BLESS

doug
09-08-2002, 02:23 PM
rocky, how long does the rope need to be to get enough?..and..how the heck do you get the oil out of the cylinder?

rocky2
09-08-2002, 02:31 PM
Not much Doug, say put maybe 3-4 inchs into spark plug hole with some more hanging out

To remove oil :take plug out and just turn engine in oppiste direction just have a rag or something to catch it.


Them crank pully bolts are tough .......... heat works

rocky2
09-08-2002, 02:57 PM
USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN USING THIS METHOD!!!

Don't forget to remove the oil from cylinder or you could blow up engine. At least spin engine over with no plugs in it.

SQ is the SQUAD
09-09-2002, 08:48 AM
i got if off. when i went to set the timimnt i aligned the cam sprocket up mark with the valve cover bolt down screw. when i put the crank pully on timint there was a white mark on the pully and i aligned that with a grove that was under the crank pully, i am not sure what i am supposed to line up the bottom. i took off the oil pan so i can see that the #1 piston is u. when i look accross i can see the flywheel and there are 3 holes on the fly wheen and a slot on the bottom of it, are they supposed to help me set the timming?

YK86
09-09-2002, 10:15 AM
You took the oil pan off?? The cam sprocket "UP" mark needs to be lined up with the valve cover post and the T mark on the flywheel/drive plate needs to be aligned with the pointer (there is a small window at the front of the engine where the tranny and engine join right above the engine code).
The methods I learned to keep the crank from moving when removing the bolt is:
1)Jam a screwdriver somewhere (flywheel/torque converter ring gear) or a hole in the crank pulley. Don't use a screwdriver on the cam sprocket since the head and the sproket aren't that strong.
2)Take the flywheel/driveplate cover off underneath and use a strip of metal band with two holes in it and bolt one side to the driveplate/flywheel and the other to the tranny housing (usually where one of the bolts would have gone to hold the cover).
3)Use the chain style strap wrench I mentioned in one of my other posts (safest and easiest by far).

SQ is the SQUAD
09-09-2002, 11:10 AM
i think i got it, shepard helped me out, thanks alot every one.