Some "Carburated Intake" pics

[Grant2k]

ok, this is way overdue, but i too some pictures of how i made an "intake" for my carbed engine. I explained it somewhere else, but the pictures should be a good enough indication of what you have to do. It isn't very difficult to do, so here are some terrible pictures for anybody who wants them. email me if you have any other questions. [email protected]

http://www.boomspeed.com/grant2k/Jam006.jpg

http://www.boomspeed.com/grant2k/Jam007.jpg

[doug]

simple, yet probably more effective and less restrictive than a couple of the homemade carb tophats, I'm left wondering why I did not think of this. Thanks.

[staticpat]

i had one similar to that for about a week, there was more power than stock, but i still think your better of getting rid of the airbox altogether.

[doug]

does anyone know if the air mass that is entering the carb forms the shape of a vortex somewhat like a water mass going down a drain or is it more of a straight "over the edge and down" from all sides?

[Grant2k]

i would guess its like an "over the edge and down" style deal. the "vortex" style would be cool though. that tornado thing would do that.

[doug]

having started to think about it, I wonder if having a tophat that is just formed to the shape of the carb and has a tube for inlet air off to one side is more restrictive in that it only allows the air mass to flow from one side, whereas the larger airbox allows flow from all sides of the carb, it seems the tophat design would reduce vortex, if in fact there is vortex, and also lower pressure and density of air on the far side of the inlet tube. Not that it really matters in the case of the 3geez carb, but I was bored and started to daydream.

[doug]

daydreamng still further, it would seem to be best if one had the small tophat on the carb, to have it positioned so that the inlet tube is straight forward and not to one side since that would allow for max airflow into the secondary barrel.

[A20A1]

The top hat with a 2.5" intake pipe is best for bottom end becuase:
The adapter that sits on top of the carb acts as a plenum.
(A plenum is the area beneath the carb.)
and since the plenum is moved above the carb, the barrels on the carb now act as runners of an intake manifold.
(The runners take the air fuel mixture from the plenum and delivers it to each cylinder.... Independent runners like with DCOE conversions have no plenum.)
Also the inlet of the adapter plate now becomes a single barrel or throttle body. This is interesting because now you don't have 2 barrels acting independetly but 1 throttle body. Since the opening of the throttle plates are progressive it acts like you only have 1 throttle plate.
Kinda confusing as i think about the throttle plate theory... but I do know there is a distinction between just having a filter and a filter with an intake.

[Experimental_Honda]

hey thats what my 1st proto looked like! i have been fucking with my intake the past few weeks and came up with this plan to make 1 and still keep the pan(it might work better than making the rig like static pat's or mine), what you do is take out the pan, take out the filter flip the lid back over weld it on, then fill up the bolt holes on top of the lid of the pan, cut the little rectangle looking hose thing off and weld a round peace on to the pan, paint the pan with some ceramic paint, then slap a filter on the new round part. on my car(88 lx) there is a massive gap where you can see right under where the filter would be, so you could get some type of hose and route the filter down there so it would be sucking in the cold air from under your car. i was almost thinking about selling my dac and doing this. a few of the performance shops told me it my work alot better than what i ahve it just wont look as nice.

[Experimental_Honda]

the reason i think this my work better is becuse of how the carb sucks the air, when air enters the pan it goes around the inside in a circle so if you take out the filter and slap 1 on the end the air will sill move the same inside the pan but with less restriction because there is not filter in there. with the short ram rig im pretty sure the air comes in a diffrent way. from what i was told the short ram rig it sucks in a fair amount of air but it really does not make a diffrence as far as the comp knows its getting the same amount of air from the barrel that used to be there. the only cool part the custom short ram is that it looks nice.

[staticpat]

if your gonna go to the work to weld and stuff, id make a hoodscoop and ram air. the results would be well worth the effort.

[hondamanlxi]

how much to buy one of those....

[Site]

Originally posted by staticpat
if your gonna go to the work to weld and stuff, id make a hoodscoop and ram air. the results would be well worth the effort.

A20A1's hood scoop w/ ram air is SO tight. Check it here:
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3925

[Experimental_Honda]

yeah thats in the works to......

[A20A1]

Yes the computer contols some of the vacuum signals, but any vacuum signals from the control box and the carb itself controll the carbs fuel delivery, so when the carb takes in more air the jet's can normaly can give out more fuel, but only up to it's maximum flow capability.

Drill the jets if you find the mixture is too lean, and polish the barrels all the way down but not touching the bore around the throttle plates itself.

Toss the emissions controls, the float bowl vent, and both idle controllers, then run a mechanical secondary. (use the throttle stop screw to adjust idle)
toss the choke.
Adjust or remove the air jet controller.
upgrade the vaccum lines for the powervalve and vacuum advance line for the distributor.
advance the timing
if you can add a fuel return line and increase the fuel pressure with a FPR then you'll be able to feel the real power of the modified keihin with mechanical secondary.

:D

[Grant2k]

so you're talking about using the stock carb, right?

[A20A1]

Yes, I basicly described my racing modification for the stcok carb.


The power of the keihin with the FPR is amazing... problem is when i used it without the fuel return line the fuel cuts off. I'm not sure why but I think the FPR uses restriction the raise the PSI and then closes the valve completely and never reopens at WOT or the excess PSI between the float and the regulator jams the float valve shut, or maybe the fuel pump shuts just shuts off because of the pressure.

Either way, I'm sure a returnline is all we need to keep the fuel flowing right.

[A20A1]

Every test run at tracks resulted in the car dying just before the 1/8 mile marker. I'v tried every PSI above 3.5 all the way to 5.0. The higher the pressure the quicker the fuel cuts off.
The best psi setting was 4.0, it pulled the hardest off the line.
If you've ever watched a domestics hood raise up in the air when launching... you'd be surprised what an automatic front wheel drive can do when flooring it in D3.

[dXsquared]

what happens when you remove the whole thang?
i havent had a FRYING PAN for the whole time ive drove the car. is that better for performance or should there be some sort of funnel thang?
Travis

[tightwhitelx]

im lost what is the frying pan?
and will the filter on the carb really improve the performance?
i am getting a weber soon so i wanted to know