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View Full Version : How many Weber carbs can we use?



88Accord-DX
02-01-2007, 08:36 PM
I've searched through many threads on webers & haven't seen any answer. Yeah, 32/36 - 38, DCOE, Holley #5200 & such. My question is, can you use different weber carbs like 32/36 DGAV-33B1, or even DGEV, DFEV for that matter? I'm looking into getting a weber some day & would like to know how many options there are. I'm not sure if the electric choke off a DGAV can be switched to manual like the DGV 5A carb. I appreciate GOOD advice, not some post whoring B.S.

MessyHonda
02-01-2007, 10:08 PM
from wut i read from a guy over at prelude power he has a 38/38 and say its the best carb for a built a20

hondaman1986
02-02-2007, 12:14 AM
ok so im ignorant in holley carbs so what kind of carb is the holley 5200?

2bbl 4bb and how many cfm?

2ndGenGuy
02-02-2007, 08:42 AM
Dude you can use any of those carbs. Any DGV or DGS carb shares a common mounting flange. I'm sure there are others that do as well. So long as they have that same base flange, you can buy the adapter plate and bolt it right on.

Most of the parts are interchangeable between carbs. I'm pretty sure the chokes on any of the DGV series are interchangeable. Of course there are hundreds of variations of each carb. Some are built for different car manufacturers, some are upgraded and revised over the current year. Thing is they've been making carbs forever, and so there are revisions and changes. The one thing they should share is that mounting flange.

They even have some crazy new carb out that's like a 36/36 or something that you can use as well. It's supposed to have the economy of the DGV 32/36 and perform as well as the DGS 38. But it shares many of the components of the other carbs.

As far as the performance sidedrafts and other downdraft carbs, you're going to have to fab somethign to make them work. Many people do the DCOE sidedrafts because they go with inline engines so well. They pretty much bolt onto the side of the engine.

This page should pretty much explain what I mean.

http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dcoepictures.htm

Anyways, hope that was somewhat informative. I suggest picking up a Weber book off of Amazon. There's books on performance tuning, economy tuning, and just general how the carbs work. They tell all of the different types of carbs and explain the background quite well.

They seem very complicated and daunting at first, but once you get the hang of them, I don't think they're so bad. I've yet to rebuild one, but I'm looking forward to it.

hondaman1986
02-03-2007, 02:11 PM
so is the holley 5200 basicly the webber 32/36?

88Accord-DX
02-03-2007, 07:50 PM
Yeah, Holley #5200 is the 32/36. It was a version under license from Weber for Holley to manufacture it.

Guess I will look into hooking up a manual choke on DGAV or similar carb. Thanks 2GenGuy for the input. I was thinking they were just udated version of the same carb.

A20A1
02-03-2007, 09:18 PM
Here is some info on the 5200
http://www.surpluselectron.com/aaron/holley.htm

Holley apparently rates it around 280 CFM


The DGV DGEV DGES lables after the 32/36 or 38 are mostly variations on the type of choke setup, otherwise the carb is the same.

lostforawhile
02-03-2007, 09:25 PM
from wut i read from a guy over at prelude power he has a 38/38 and say its the best carb for a built a20
yea I'm looking forward to getting mine done, these su carbs are the same as a 38/38. but the SUs flow better then a fixed venturi carb. I wouldn't go more then a set of DCOE webbers. I have a pattern that pierce manifolds sent me and you'll have to make your own manifold with a tube to each barrel, they aren't spaced right to bolt right to the engine.

A20A1
02-03-2007, 11:03 PM
Any updates on the SU conversion?

I've been gone a while

I was thinking of the 38 but in a dual configuration.
it would mount something like this, minus the float bowl facing the valve cover.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3884
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3880

MessyHonda
02-03-2007, 11:41 PM
^^that looks hot mike...

lostforawhile
02-04-2007, 07:51 AM
Any updates on the SU conversion?

I've been gone a while

I was thinking of the 38 but in a dual configuration.
it would mount something like this, minus the float bowl facing the valve cover.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3884
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3880yea I got the air cleaners built,I'm going to try and get the manifold welded up tomorrow. it's just a matter of money right now. it's gonna cost over 200 to have the roller throttle shafts put in by z therapy. plus the cost of the rebuild kits. I think for now I'm going to work on getting everything fitted then save up the money and have the two carbs swapped out by them on exchange. it'll be cheaper in the long run and they are experts on these carbs. I could do it my self but they do everything,even use replated linkages,their patented roller throttle shafts,match the two carbs perfectly to each other etc. I won't lose any money because the core on these is over 200 bucks,and I still got the manifold out of the deal. when everything is fitted I send these two carbs off for an exchange,get two ones back in perfect condition and bolt them on. makes a lot of sense to me. these are from a 72 datsun 510 sss 1600 by the way,the way SU carbs work the same carb will work for a number of different engines and displacments with little tuning needed. The person I talked to at Z therapy said they run 2200 cc datsun race motors with this same carb setup all the time with no problems. if I want to go up a little all I have to do is change the metering rod and jet. the carbs are the same as a 38/38 downdraft,but they flow a lot more air due to their design.
here is the air cleaner thread,I still have to taper the velocity stacks inside of the air cleaner. never mind,I put both threads on the post above

lostforawhile
02-04-2007, 08:07 AM
here are the two main links to the carb project I'm working on,has anyone ever thought of haveing a specific carb project section in R&D? I've seen some neat projects so far and it would be nice to be able to browse through them in one place. us carb guys ae the old schoolers. BWHAHAHAHA!
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57972
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56803

88Accord-DX
02-19-2007, 08:47 PM
I was looking around on ebay & seen these two 32/36 carbs on a TR-6. This would be cool on an Accord. (pic might not stay on here for a length of time)

http://i19.ebayimg.com/07/i/000/83/7e/7f7f_12.JPG

A20A1
02-19-2007, 09:03 PM
I saved the image just in case... I'll try to find more TR dual manifolds on google or something.

http://www.paltech1.com/

Vanilla Sky
02-19-2007, 10:07 PM
i'll be building a DCOE manifold sometime soon. i just need a welder and i'm good to go. i have the DCOEs and just about everything i need to tune them. i don't really wanna replace a good working carb, though.

A20A1
02-19-2007, 11:01 PM
Use what I'm using
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37554&page=2

weld it with a simple torch
:)

hondaman1986
03-03-2007, 01:58 PM
...

2oodoor
03-03-2007, 02:09 PM
Any updates on the SU conversion?

I've been gone a while

I was thinking of the 38 but in a dual configuration.
it would mount something like this, minus the float bowl facing the valve cover.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3884
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3880
hey A20A1 that is so hot, you rock with those intakes:welcome:

There are alot of carbs you CAN use!?

hondaman1986
03-03-2007, 02:09 PM
so if i was going to use the holley 5200 on the stock mani could i use a civic to weber adapter plate or what adapter would i use to make it fit?:huh: :huh:

2oodoor
03-03-2007, 05:50 PM
so if i was going to use the holley 5200 on the stock mani could i use a civic to weber adapter plate or what adapter would i use to make it fit?:huh: :huh:
civic to adapter plate, HUH is right!
Use Redline Weber Honda A20 Accord adapter plate, allows you to use weber style carb on same manifold as factory carb. Adapter kit is around fifty bucks, then you will need to fab a linkage, unless you also buy the Rline Weber linkage kit, then you still have a puzzle to put together cause it is kind of universal.,

hondaman1986
03-03-2007, 06:30 PM
well the reson i asked is because im trying to get the parts from my local schucks store rather tha order the because i have some friends that work there and will give me a discount on anything i buy so can someone post a pic of our carbs base plate with mesurements so i can see what is close to ours i have the tools to make it fit so i just need it close in order to work.


this is from a civic( i think it was a cvcc engine) is it close to our cars plates?
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9610/accordcarbplatetg8.th.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=accordcarbplatetg8.jpg)


and this is a 20r from a toyota
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/6713/20rbaseplatepo6.th.png (http://img162.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20rbaseplatepo6.png)

A20A1
03-03-2007, 06:43 PM
I don't see Shucks carring a weber kit... Jegs might. Nopi might.

I bought the plate for $50... pretty cheap.

We have a REDLINE store here that sells weber parts and also stocks parts much like a NAPA does.

You may have to special order it but special order the correct part... the civic doesn't look like a match to me.

hondaman1986
03-03-2007, 06:45 PM
no shucks doesnt carry redline but they carry trans-dapt

ive also heard that a rochester adapter will fit our cars is it true or was i getting pulled along?

A20A1
03-03-2007, 07:03 PM
What? nothing but the kit fits without modification... only the weber adapter plate that is made for the accord will fit without mods.

You can try different adapters or even weld and redrill and tap the manifold to use a weber and not need any adapter plates...
even then you still need a 0.50 - 0.75" spacer to run the weber/holley... or the throttle linkage will rub against the manifold and thats why you can't run the weber/holley directly on the manifold.
it requires work on your part.


The adapter is high enough so that the linkages don't hit the manifold... it's $50 for two plates.



.
.
.



Rochester?

I'm putting a Q-Jet on my manifold... but look at my manifold.



http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/DSCN2776s.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/6667.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/rq001.jpg

this is the stock manifold with weber adapter

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/Dsc00031.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/DSCF0021.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/adapterplate_2l.jpg

2oodoor
03-03-2007, 07:09 PM
kewl

Vanilla Sky
03-03-2007, 07:31 PM
Mike, do you still have a weber adapter laying around? Preferrably an unmodded one.

A20A1
03-03-2007, 07:34 PM
I sold or gave it away... someone has it... and a free weber carb I think :) hehe.

cygnus x-1
03-03-2007, 07:40 PM
Roo, which Weber is that? The throttle is on the opposite side from the DGV types. Here's mine: (38/38)


http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/Weber_38-38.jpg


C|

A20A1
03-03-2007, 07:47 PM
Roo, which Weber is that? The throttle is on the opposite side from the DGV types. Here's mine: (38/38)
C|


you can always turn the weber around...

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/carb_linkage_21.jpg

2oodoor
03-03-2007, 08:03 PM
sure doesnt look like yours cygnus, you have some geary looking sec. linkage.
It was a kit for a Mazdatruck, it runs good most of the time, :)
Im learning a bit about picture posting, I really need some real camera pic, all mine are cell phone. I need to show a better view of where actual cable connection to linkage.lol

hondaman1986
03-03-2007, 08:20 PM
so would a rochester adapter fit our mani's cause i was told they do?

cygnus x-1
03-04-2007, 08:44 AM
you can always turn the weber around...

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b351/Wendy_girl/carb_linkage_21.jpg



But then the cable would have to come from the rear not the front. Well maybe there are different versions of throttle configurations then.

Mine has a geared secondary because it's synchronous instead of progressive. Both throttle plates open at the same time.

As for a rochester, I'm sure one could be made to fit but I'm pretty sure there is no adapter that would fit without at least some modification.

C|

hondaman1986
03-04-2007, 11:40 AM
yea and i have no problem with modding a plate so thanks for the imput all:)

88Accord-DX
03-27-2008, 07:03 PM
I finally got a 32/36 DGEV Weber, rebuild kit, adapter plate, linkage kit. It looks like the rebuild kit don't come with much. (no instructions, just a break down) Guess my rebuild will be basically a "cleaning job" for it. Anyway, nice little weekend project doing that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuildkit.jpg

2ndGenGuy
03-27-2008, 07:17 PM
Yeah I thought the same thing when I rebuilt my 5200. Thought it was going to be all complicated and have a million little parts. It's basically a cleaning and resealing. :)

2oodoor
03-28-2008, 03:17 PM
this is a VERY simple carb to overhaul, but you must make sure it is VERY clean, I have one Im building now too. I really want something else so I may sell it after it is done and tested.
ddude2uc I do hope you will post your jet and emulsion tube sizes in the carb tech sticky, even if they may not be what you keep in there.. it will help all of us know what has been used with what mods on the engine. There are dozens of combinations that can be used with those.
As for dual DGV type carbs, progressive, I don't thing that is a good way to go, the 38/38 maybe yes but not the 5200/ 32/36 style. The jury is still out on that IMO, Im looking at other 4 cyl forums for ideas. It would be extremley hard to sychronize those.
The Holley 2300 series looks like it would be an interesting carb to look into, as you can get the cool new metering blocks same as the four barrel. I would even consider a four barrel, only because of the high cost of DCOE's.

88Accord-DX
03-29-2008, 05:41 PM
This carb is labeled as DGAV, looks like someone put electric choke on it.

This carb looks to have stock components on all the jets & emulsion tubes. Got it broke down, should have it together by tomm. Overall, it seems pretty easy to rebuild, much easier than rebuilding the OEM Keihin carb.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuilding.jpg

2oodoor
03-29-2008, 06:24 PM
all of those brass jets and tubes have numbers stamped on them, you may want to jot those down. They also most likely are different numbers on the left and right (primary, secondary) so you don't want to mix them up even though the look exactly the same practically.

88Accord-DX
03-29-2008, 11:12 PM
I took note of the numbers. The primary & secondary idle & corrector jets have different numbers. I did notice the rebuild kit came with a bigger needle valve. The old one was stamped 200 while the kit came with 250, guess it lets more fuel in the bowl under heavy acceleration.
I went ahead and knocked this rebuild out tonight. It has new accelerator pump diaphragm. Just need to install the new linkage.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuild2.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuild1.jpg

2oodoor
04-05-2008, 12:57 PM
How does she run ddude2uc
I went over this thead again, and the weber I have is a DFEV, that is why it mounts backwards than everybody else's.
The one I just got recently is a DGV.
After reading some other forums and seeing how this thing works I am convinced that a regulator should be used even with the 32/36, even though weber says you don't have to.

88Accord-DX
04-05-2008, 09:50 PM
I don't have it on there yet roodoo2, been waiting on my slow ass father-in-law to sand blast my pacesetter header. I want to get my exhaust on there first, then put the weber on last. Also, I been busy working on other people's cars on the weekends & studying up for my next ASE test coming up in May. I've been driving my truck & the Accord is parked for now, hopefully I'll get my exhaust & weber put on before June. I'll pop some pics when it happens. :)

2oodoor
04-06-2008, 04:57 AM
I was looking at some info about plugging off the hi speed enrichment from the power valve. Apparently it makes tuning with AFM immpossible because it randomly dumps fuel in the mixture. There seems to be a more accurate means of rejetting by doing this, with very positive results.

oscwrestler
04-30-2008, 09:14 AM
ok so after eading this i'm assuming that doing a webber swap is quite the pain in the ass. i'm really new to cars so should i take this on with my daily driver?

2oodoor
04-30-2008, 01:42 PM
ok so after eading this i'm assuming that doing a webber swap is quite the pain in the ass. i'm really new to cars so should i take this on with my daily driver?

sure is easier than monkeying around with that oem carb, if you are going to keep the car a while I highly recommend the swap. It is really easy especially with the extra tips on this forum.

turabaka
04-30-2008, 05:53 PM
It's really easy. It took me awhile to do it, because I took the intake manifold off, and ported it. The power difference is unbelievable. Plus there's a nice noise to go with it.

oscwrestler
05-02-2008, 08:36 AM
is there a way to do the swap without an adapter? i'm really low on cash and i dont want to end up with a carb i'll never use.

2oodoor
05-02-2008, 08:47 AM
truth is , you do not need to do all the stuff you see everyone here doing , port matching blah blah, you can approach it from an OEM best choice replacement standpoint. When all these Asian carbs (Datsun, Toyota, Mazda, etc ) started giving trouble back in the late 80's, Holley and Weber both offered replacment options which was this Weber 32/36 esssentially. So that beiing said, if you are keeping this car, and you need to be getting good MPG, you can not go wrong with investing in the Weber swap. It is pretty simple and comes in a kit form with all you need to make it go. The things you see here on the forum are for tweaking, tuning, and car lovers... The initial Honda kit is a direct bolt up, turn key, plug and play ordeal.

turabaka
05-02-2008, 08:54 AM
you could do it without the adapter, but you'd have to fill in the old holes, and drill and tap new ones. It's easier to just get the adapter. As for the port matching. You don't have to do it, but if you get a 38/38 you should probably do it anyway to make both ports the same size.

oscwrestler
05-02-2008, 09:15 AM
can you do that with self tapping screws? a lot of the stuff im doing is gonna have to be super ghetto but reliable

oscwrestler
05-02-2008, 09:57 AM
and i have an auto. i saw somewhere that you need to do some modding to make them work with an auto.

2oodoor
05-02-2008, 10:06 AM
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64539
your thread?
this one too?
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64533
for automatics, if you have the TV cable at the pedal instead of the carb you are ok other than adjusting the cable to fit the thottle opening. If you have TV cable at the carb, you need to add a place to connect it to the weber kit, I recommend gettting the cable and hardware out of a car that has it at the gas pedal from the junkyard.

oscwrestler
05-02-2008, 06:34 PM
so what does the tv cable look like? or will i just know if there's 2 cables from my pedal? and yes both mine.

2oodoor
05-02-2008, 06:43 PM
so what does the tv cable look like? or will i just know if there's 2 cables from my pedal? and yes both mine.
oh, like this >>>
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1209782448.jpg

oscwrestler
05-02-2008, 06:52 PM
uh.... not exactly what i was after lol

2oodoor
05-03-2008, 03:33 PM
Just kidding man, try looking in How to section, for a breifing on these cables. Then go to the carb tech section and look for auto transmission cable threads. After that you will understand anything I may have to say to assist you .
:rockon:

Hazwan
05-03-2008, 05:25 PM
lol @ cable pic