chipped crank pulley...

[newaccorddriver]

well, as im having alot of trouble getting elijahs old crank pulley off the motor, i think i might be using my old one. the problem with my old one is that its chipped on the outter portion on the front of the crank pulley. i dont have AC, so i dont think ill be shredding any belts any time soon, but does anyone know if its still useable?

im planning on having it modified, and possibly running it around 7.5k rpm, and thats the last thing i want falling apart

[MessyHonda]

same thing happen to me...when i was doing my headgasket...i had to go to the junkyard and 15 bucks later i had a junkyard one

[88Accord-DX]

Spinning them kind of RPMs, a chipped crank pulley can cause premature rod & main bearing wear. Find another crank pulley, that one is trash.

[Jasonf860]

Mine has been chipped sine 130k miles, since the timing belt was first done in the car. It now has 217k miles and no adverse effects.

[newaccorddriver]

Spinning them kind of RPMs, a chipped crank pulley can cause premature rod & main bearing wear. Find another crank pulley, that one is trash.


i should also say, im getting the entire bottom end balanced after i modify the crank pulley with a trigger wheel. is it still trashed?

[MessyHonda]

yeah get another one...they are not that hard to find. i think even i have an extra one

[newaccorddriver]

can someone really give me a good reason as of now that i said i was going to balance the entire bottom end after mods are done? rather then saying just replace it cause its cheap or easy to get, can someone actually give me a reason to replace it rather then just go on about replacing it endlessly?

[MessyHonda]

get a custom underdrive one yo...or get it blanaced or lighten

[Ichiban]

can someone really give me a good reason as of now that i said i was going to balance the entire bottom end after mods are done? rather then saying just replace it cause its cheap or easy to get, can someone actually give me a reason to replace it rather then just go on about replacing it endlessly?

No.

Unless it has a huge chunk broken out of it, or its gonna crack, I wouldn't bother. However, if it were my engine, with a fresh rebuild, I would, but that's because I don't like broken shit on something brand new. Otherwise, don't.

[newaccorddriver]

No.
Unless it has a huge chunk broken out of it, or its gonna crack, I wouldn't bother. However, if it were my engine, with a fresh rebuild, I would, but that's because I don't like broken shit on something brand new. Otherwise, don't.

its such a small chip that i consider it insignificant. the chip is about 1 inch long in the shape of a cresent, and the depth it goes down is only until it hits the ribbs(although the ribs are still in tact). wether its cracked or not is a different story. i too, dont like broken shit on my car, but i cant seem to get my other crank pulley off.

[2ndGenGuy]

1 oz of missing material can send an object spinning at thousands of RPMs go WAY out of balance. Think about when that 1oz wheel weight falls off of your car. A wheel weighs upwards of 20lbs, and 1oz can throw it off. All that vibration is felt through the whole vehicle.

A crank pulley weighs a lot less and spins a lot faster than a wheel. So I guess that is just food for thought.

[Ichiban]

its such a small chip that i consider it insignificant. the chip is about 1 inch long in the shape of a cresent, and the depth it goes down is only until it hits the ribbs(although the ribs are still in tact). wether its cracked or not is a different story. i too, dont like broken shit on my car, but i cant seem to get my other crank pulley off.

Have you tried a little heat?

[2ndGenGuy]

700lb-ft of impact gun should get it right off. Or 949.07 Newton Meters, as you metric folk might say.

[POS carb]

put the car in park or 1st gear.
You should be able to get the bolt out with a regular Sears breaker bar
Try to tighten the bolt a tiny bit before trying to remove it, this will help break the rust loose and prevent the bolt head from stripping.
if you chipped the edges of the pulley it should not cut belts but if it is a big enough hole and the RPMs are really high it will cause a slight inbalance
I found an OEM pulley on ebay brand new pretty cheap, I'd recommend you check into replacing it if you intend on racing

[Ichiban]

If you want to lock the engine with the transmission, and you have an auto, you're SOL. Park is simply neutral (driveline disengaged) with the parking pawls engaged on the output shaft. Otherwise, you'd not be able to idle in park. With an auto, put it in 5th gear. If you are in first, you will be able to move the car with a breaker bar on the pulley, by putting the tranny in 5th you are increasing the mechanical disadvantage, and helping the "holding effect" of the tranny. With the auto, you could jam a cylinder by feeding thin rope into the spark plug hole, and gently bringing the piston up on the compression stroke, so both valves are closed.

[88Accord-DX]

I just an impact. Some other tricks are to have someone hold the flywheel with a thick heavy duty flat-head screwdriver, with lots of downward leverage against it.
OR- Take the cover off the lower bellhousing & jam something in there to keep it from moving.

Some other thing I was thinking, was taking the drive wheel off, with a long pry bar, have someone wedge it between two studs to keep it from moving, then you use a 1/2" breaker bar with socket on crank bolt.

[newaccorddriver]

just so everybody knows, this engine was out of the car a long time ago. i just took the flywheel/clutch off. i think im gonna stick the flywheel bolts back on, and stick a long pry bar through them and through the timing hole on the engine and hope it doesnt turn. from there it should be smooth sailing. i tried an impact at first, but the impact was garbage to start with and literally smoked itself to death(thank got it has 2 years warranty left on it)

[88Accord-DX]

Also, you can get one of them small propane torches at Lowe's or Home Depot & heat the end of the crank bolt. That help some with your method too.

[POS carb]

1st gear is actually better for locking the engine.
if you turn the wheel over one revolution, you will have turned the motor over more times in 1st gear than in 5th, therefore more work is required to spin the engine by the wheels in 1st vs 5th. This is why "engine braking" is more violent in 1st gear than 4th or 5th.

The parking prawl holds enough to be able to unlock the pulley bolt (at least on mine it was).
Impact drills (even the electric ones) help a lot.
On the 5speed I could lock the flywheel against the engine block by passing a 10mm bolt through one of the holes on the outer edges. When you rotate the engine the bolt head will hit the block and lock the engine.

[Ichiban]

1st gear is actually better for locking the engine.
if you turn the wheel over one revolution, you will have turned the motor over more times in 1st gear than in 5th, therefore more work is required to spin the engine by the wheels in 1st vs 5th. This is why "engine braking" is more violent in 1st gear than 4th or 5th.
The parking prawl holds enough to be able to unlock the pulley bolt (at least on mine it was).
Impact drills (even the electric ones) help a lot.
On the 5speed I could lock the flywheel against the engine block by passing a 10mm bolt through one of the holes on the outer edges. When you rotate the engine the bolt head will hit the block and lock the engine.

Wrong.

The engine exerts the least amount of effort to move the car when in first gear. When was the last time you started moving in 5th gear? Since you are trying to turn the engine, by placing it in 5th gear you increase the amount of effort required to move the car. This can be proven using several formulas, or with common sense involving how a transmission with more than one ratio functions. Engine braking is more effective in low gears because the mechanical advantage of the gearing works in the engines favor, just as it does when starting or pulling a hill. If you are still unclear on this I can post up the math. It's what I do in school.

Secondly, how the hell does the parking pawl even remotely involve the turning of the engine? Go start an automatic car in neutral and then shift into park. Does the engine stop? No. Does the parking pawl affect crankshaft rotation? Obviously no.