ECT Sensor

[ProfileTrader]

I did a search but I need additional info. My Engine check light came on, so I checked the ECU and it blinked 6 times. In the other thread it mentioned possibly poor wiring. I checked and it seemed good. It also mentioned a rubber boot but the two sensors I see on the thermostatic housing are green and yellow.

A few questions:

1. Am I looking at the correct sensors and is the correct one green or yellow.
2. Also can you drive a while or do you need to get this repaired immediately.
3. Anything I need to know in changing the sesors - do they just thread out (unscrew).
4. Is there anything to reset.
5. And since I am not great a rewires - do they sell the connectors so you don't need to rewire.

Thanks in advance

[Zwolfe]

I had this problem.

Looking directly at your thermostat housing, it's the sensor on the right. I forget the color. But it should be the one on the right.

It is more or less a plug. Yes, it threads in and out. No, you do not need to do any wiring. The wire that goes on top pops off and on. I'd suggest using needle nose pliers or something to get it off and on easier, otherwise do whatever you can.

I have access to a parts car, so I took the ECT sensor plug out of it and replaced my faulty ECT sensor with the one from the parts car.

You can drive the car forever with the faulty ECT sensor but I would not.

Mine resulted in the car having a very rough idle. The engine at stop lights, the RPM would be so low you could swear the engine was going to die but it wouldn't completely.

The faulty ECT sensor looked okay. I even cleaned it and made it look brand new with a motorized metal wire brush. The one I replaced it with looked like it was in worse condition, but it functioned properly while the okay looking one was bad.

I suppose you could have faulty wiring, but unless you have mice running around in the engine bay I wouldn't suspect it.

YMMV

[race12001]

yea i have the same problem and did the search and couldnt find no info but mine doesnt allow my cooling fans to come on so it overheats i got to get it fixed

[bobafett]

its a pita to check, and you risk damaging the wires further. but on my car both sensors up on the thermostat had broken wires, but they were AT the boot. you could tug on the wires a bit to see if there is a break and if u end up with the end of a wire in your hand you will obviously need to fix that.

i rewired my sensors, and just used spade connectors to connect them directly to the sensor. in this case they are switched at a certain temperature, so the polarity doesnt appear to matter. :)

its easy enough to replace the sensor and see if that helps, but 100% of the junkyard accords i have seen with the plugs existing have had broken wires exactly like mine. i have wanted to score a set of plugs in good condition so i could avoid the spade connector route. but in the end i am satisfied, cause I know i have a really good connection now. :)

[ProfileTrader]

So if I understand correctly the wires disconnect from the housng sensor top like the linked picture below - The reason I ask is the sensor itself seperates (male & female) with the wires attached.

Please conifrm for me that the sensor I need is number 10 and do I need number 11 from the link below.


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=2DR+LXI&catcgry4=5MT&catcgry5=ALTERNATOR+BRACKET&vinsrch=yes

Thanks

[Zwolfe]

Yes, what you want is unit 10, TW Sensor.

This problem gave me headaches because when you diagnose Code 6, the manual states it is the ECT (engine coolant temp.) sensor, while when you look at the diagrams, it is displayed as the TW Sensor.

It actually took me a couple weeks to pin point WTF I was supposed to do then it dawned on me that Honda actually fucked up the references and ECT and TW are one and the same.

I replaced the unit to the left of the TW sensor originally because I was positive that was the culprit, and because of Honda not matching the diagram with the code reference sheet I tried to fix the wrong damn thing.

After I noticed it didn't help a damn I replaced the left plug with what I took out and replaced the plug to the right (TW sensor / ECT / whatever Honda wants to call it) which is what I should had done to begin with and presto, fixed.

The wires run into unit 11, the TW Sensor cap that sits ontop of unit 10, TW Sensor. Unless you pull and yank without care the wires should not be damaged. That's why I suggested needle nose pliers or some other tool.

Appearingly there are people who only have problems with the wires, but my ECT/TW sensor was obviously damaged internally because a replacement fixed it.

After you're done yank the ECU fuse from the main fuse box from under the hood and wait a sec and replace it to clear the stored code and you should be good to go.

All of this assuming the wires are indeed o.k.

edit: race12001, while I had this problem I never had an issue with overheating. Even in the summer no problem. You most likely have a stuck closed thermostat. (along w/ Code 6)

[ProfileTrader]

Well I finally replaced the sensor and pulled the ECU fuse (it is shared with the clock) and started the car - The ECU is still blinking 6 times.

Should I pull thr fuse while the car is running?

I checked the wires and they seem to be okay. When ckecking them what should I be looking for to give me a clue as to whether they are bad.

Thanks again