PDA

View Full Version : Problem!!!! WTF



87preludeA20A3
02-22-2007, 09:55 AM
Ok so well i went out to my car today and it wouldn't run right. My car is a 1987 prelude A20a3 that i have put a turbo on. The turbo is a td04 mitsubishi, i have an MSD 255lph fuel pump 450cc DSM injectors an MSD 6al ignition box and a blaster 2 coil. Also i have an SAFC 2 and an adjustable fuel pressure reg.., and an AEM wideband air/fuel gauge. The problem i noticed was that when i drove the car it sputtered and ran llike crap, the air/fuel was at 10.0. I tried driving it like this to no avail, i also noticed that after about an hour of fucking with the car i had black smoke coming from my tailpipe and that i had lost about half a tank of gas...I don't have any clue what could have gone wrong because the car ran great just like normal the day before(yesterday). WTF help me if you can i hope that's enough info. Let me know if i need to clarify anything else..

bobafett
02-22-2007, 10:08 AM
what is your fuel pressure at? what is your timing at? and what are your SAFC settings?

guaynabo89
02-22-2007, 07:37 PM
I say start with the simple thigns first.
Look at your spark plugs cap rotor plug wires check for vacuum leaks or just anythign in the engine bay out of place.

Did your battery die and maybe you lost the settings n the afc. IS the vac line to your map and fpr sensor good. All the sensors and parts working properly/

Dont brake your head start simple. Plugs will tell the tale.

shepherd79
02-23-2007, 05:51 AM
yah, start with plugs and go from there. make sure you do the compression test.

87preludeA20A3
02-23-2007, 11:30 AM
Well fuel pressure is at 25 psi (didn't change), timing seems to be the same as it was... and the safc settings are all the same i didn't even mess with it, i even reset it to the second data source and mapped it out again just incase the first setting was messed up or something. I'll do a compression check right now.

Bglad420
02-23-2007, 12:34 PM
........

EricW
02-23-2007, 05:23 PM
Hey dude wheres my speed sensor? I opened a claim with paypal.

I think you could have sent that to him in a PM or in the for sale thread where you bought it.



Why are you running the fuel pressure so low? It should be around 37-39. some one correct me if I'm wrong.

If you used a lot of gas then it sounds like there may be a problem with the injectors mainly the wiring to the injectors. Like they are constantly staying open. Or the ecu is getting a bad signal and telling the injectors to stay open longer/more often than they should. I would cover the simple bases first that the other guys have said.

shepherd79
02-23-2007, 05:40 PM
you are right 25 psi is not good. you need to run at least 32psi.
did you lower it to compensate for too much fuel? use setting on SAFC to control the amount the fuel.

PS. conver to OBD1 and you can dial in the duty cycles of your injectors. a lot better to control the fuel flow.

bobafett
02-23-2007, 05:58 PM
yeah you can only pull 50% fuel with safc though... might not be enough to get the 450's to idle properly... but still I agree, super scary to be running less than 30psi of fuel pressure. :)

87preludeA20A3
02-23-2007, 07:06 PM
It always ran fine on that and that is how i left it(refering to the low FP). How could the wiring to the injectors go bad all of a sudden. But that sounds logical about the injectors staying open. My AFC settings never changed, they are at 50% at low and high throttle almost all the wat across(to about 4500 rpm).... I found a good vaccum leak today but it didn't fix the problem. I also diconnected the map sesor and put a mightvac on it and pumped it to 15 in. and the car ran great. So i think it is just a vaccum problem but where? Fuck this sucks. I'm getting like 10 miles to the gallon now.. I was getting 24.

PearlDrummer00
02-23-2007, 10:51 PM
i saw you mentioned that your air/fuel ratio was at 10....well i heard for a typical turbo charged 2.0 liter you want that ratio to be around 12.5...i think stock is about 14.7 so 12.5 is rich enough to cool pistons and valves and such but not to rich to cause problems....This might help but i dont kno...i just started researching turbo ideas lately

EricW
02-23-2007, 11:11 PM
Actually running rich will make you run hotter not cooler. When i put my FPR with a cheap gauge on and set the gauge to ~37psi the EGT(exhaust gas temperature) was higher then when i set it to 37psi on my electric autometer fuel pressure gauge. I could tell the car was running rich also from the smell of the exhaust the way i had it set with the gauge on the FPR.

bobafett
02-24-2007, 12:47 AM
too rich will make your egts go high, and so will too lean. :( from what i understand anyway...

shepherd79
02-24-2007, 06:12 AM
It always ran fine on that and that is how i left it(refering to the low FP). How could the wiring to the injectors go bad all of a sudden. But that sounds logical about the injectors staying open. My AFC settings never changed, they are at 50% at low and high throttle almost all the wat across(to about 4500 rpm).... I found a good vaccum leak today but it didn't fix the problem. I also diconnected the map sesor and put a mightvac on it and pumped it to 15 in. and the car ran great. So i think it is just a vaccum problem but where? Fuck this sucks. I'm getting like 10 miles to the gallon now.. I was getting 24.
i am assuming you still have black box. open the box and see if there are any problems inside.

87preludeA20A3
02-24-2007, 11:20 AM
Yes i do have my black box. .What could i visually look for???

87preludeA20A3
02-24-2007, 11:22 AM
Oh and just to note, i don't know if this matters a whole lot but i matters. The car backfired a good lean backfire on the way home from driving it that day, but it didn't seem to do anything at the time as far as drivability.

89T
02-24-2007, 05:53 PM
plugs and compression test. how did they look?
once more put in the btm.

trust me from experince i burned a hole in a piston the size of a quarter,the stupidest mistake i ever made.
instead of buying a $300 part i had to buy a $300 part and $1200 for the engine rebuild.

that reminds me where is you'r timing set at?

SQ is the SQUAD
02-26-2007, 07:32 AM
id say do an odb1 conversion and run crome

87preludeA20A3
02-26-2007, 03:38 PM
I changed my Map today and that did nothing, i also remembered that i got an overheated O2 code several times running on the freeway and so i'll check that to see if that is any good. I also may check the water temp sensor because that may have gone bad for some reason who knows...??????

87preludeA20A3
02-27-2007, 08:41 PM
Hey guys don't give up on me here, i don't want to hear OBD1 because that is not the issue here. Any ideas on any sensors that went bad and how i check them??????????????????????????????????

thegreatdane
03-02-2007, 06:27 AM
Is your map sensor and TPS sensor functioning correctly?

AccordEpicenter
03-03-2007, 06:07 PM
check to see that your map sensor is functioning and that the wiring is still good and the vac lines are still hooked up to it. The way you can check this is go to monitor the map signal in the safc, if you see it changing when the car is running then its probably ok, but if it stays the same its probably your problem

89T
03-03-2007, 10:25 PM
compression test/leak down?
bad o2 would put you in limp mode thus dumping fuel.
bad ct sensor will do the same.
leaky/bad injector will do the same.
bad fpr.
bad wiring.
if you have an fmu get rid of it. use the stock fpr or get a 1:1 fpr.
if you don't start giving feed back on our segestions how can we help.

AccordEpicenter
03-04-2007, 09:13 AM
bad wiring.
if you have an fmu get rid of it. use the stock fpr or get a 1:1 fpr.
if you don't start giving feed back on our segestions how can we help.

absolutely

87preludeA20A3
03-05-2007, 01:38 PM
Soory i haven't been online in a few days. But i fixed the problem the other day and i am pissed at myself. It was a short in the RPM signal wire to the SAFC. I went to start it the other day and the whole car just died and the fuel pump and SAFC didn't work at all at that point. So i was like fuck!!! So i opened the hood and checked the fuses and i blew the regulator fuse(10amp). So i put a new one in and the car started but ran like crap still so i messed with some wires under my dash that go to the MSD 6 AL box and the car died again. I found that my RPM signal wire was loose so i reconnected that and the car started again and started to run good again. I also bumped my fuel pressure up to 40psi and that maked the car run more towards rich than lean, more in the neborhood of 14:1. So yeah that sucks that it was that simple but that was the problem....

89T
03-05-2007, 03:10 PM
nothing can replace soldier.

bobafett
03-05-2007, 03:58 PM
14:1 is your idle AFR or WOT?

87preludeA20A3
03-06-2007, 12:05 AM
my idle is at like 16:1. On the freeway it is around 14:1.. WOT gets down to 10:1 around 5000 rpm. I still haven't dyno tuned yet.

bobafett
03-06-2007, 06:08 PM
cool cool... i need to get my car tuned out too. :) good luck with the tuning, and congrats on geting it fixed up!

AccordEpicenter
03-07-2007, 11:48 AM
cuz yea man that is way rich at wot. What is your ignition retard?

87preludeA20A3
03-07-2007, 02:00 PM
I'm running stock as far as ignition timing... I have a BTM but have yet to wire it up.. If i did that that would probably help greatly. But as long as i'm not flooring it everywhere i'm good right.

AccordEpicenter
03-07-2007, 02:48 PM
on turbo a20s you really need to be conservative with the ignition timing, so id say most definintly you absolutely need to hook up the btm and start pulling out some timing or youre gonna blow it unless youre running straight 110 octane leaded race gas. How much boost are you running now? Id say you should get at least .7 degree retard per psi of boost for a stock motor and pump gas. Colder plugs are a must also.

89T
03-11-2007, 08:21 AM
retard you'r timing about 3-4 deg. till you put the btm in.