Query About Stage-One Vac Removal

[bushbean]

Hi,

I'm looking to do the stage-One vacuum removal, and have a question about the removal of the charcoal cannister. If it is removed, won't fumes from the fuel tank come out even when the engine is shut off, thereby having a constant smell of gasoline around the car?

Thanks. More question to come.

[A18A]

i was told to cap it, or you could do this:

http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4551
This is to have vapor venting from the gas tank via the firewall line... to the air box... the filter is added to allow air to be sucked in along with the fuel vapor, that way you don't get straight vapor which may cause you to run a tad rich.

[bushbean]

I see the picture, but what keeps the vapor from venting all the time?

If you cap the vapor line, won't there be excessive pressure in the fuel tank?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm really new at this mysterious art of carburetion.

[shepherd79]

our cars need pressure in fuel tank.
you can connect to air box and it will be OK.
I didn't do anything about it, i never connected to anything and the car never smelled like gasoline.

[A20A1]

Me either I've left the port uncapped and there was no smell, I only capped it and hooked it up with a filter to at least have something to direct the fumes where it could be used.

The fuel vapor will have an easier time going to the carb air box then it will have leaking out that small air filter.

Also it's not like there is a big pressure difference that will cause the gas vapor to be pushed or sucked out of the filter and into your engine bay.

[bushbean]

Another query: if I do a stage One vac removal, how much worse will the MPG be?

I know gasoline is cheap right now, but the oil mafia is ready to price grouge consumer as soon as they find another excuse.

[2oodoor]

Another query: if I do a stage One vac removal, how much worse will the MPG be?

I know gasoline is cheap right now, but the oil mafia is ready to price grouge consumer as soon as they find another excuse.
Your mileage should improve overall because potential drivability issues from malfunctioning components will no longer exist.
I left my vent tube open, no fumes either
Some like to have it functional, following the theory that the tank fumes will enrichen mixture occasionally.

[bushbean]

I used to have an antique Civic that had hard-to-start problem right after filling up the gas tank and that would want to stall out when the car is pulling out of the gas station. I suspected the charcoal canister was malfunctioning by allowing the increase pressure of filling up the gas tank to force fumes into the carburetor. Do yall have any difficulties starting after filling up with gas?

[A20A1]

no, and yes too much fumes will stall the car but thats why the small air filter is there. It decreses the suction on the vent and allows air to get sucked in as well as fumes so it's not a big glod of just fumes... air and vapor will have to share the space inside the tube and that dillutes the mix.

It's not like there will be a lot of vapor all the time, Plus vapor is easier to burn, but yeah it will richen the mix.

[bushbean]

Another query: after you guys do the stage-3, since you don't have the choke anymore, how much trouble do yall have starting the car in cold weather?

[A18A]

my car used to stall quite a bit, when i started it, i had to assist the accelerator for about a minute or 2 before she would idle on her own properly. once it warmed up it ran awesome :)

[A20A1]

Yeah warm up will be an issue... may want to rig a manual choke.

You can also keep the "Pre Heater hose" if you use the stock air cleaner and the air bleed valves. The pre heater will help a lot in cold weather.

[bushbean]

I'm actually more concern about the car not starting. My pop's Accord wouldn't start at all when the temperature outside is below freezing because the choke on his car was stuck open. He said he had to remove the air box and cover the barrel of the carburetor with his hand, in order to start. I agree a manual choke is a good idea.

[shepherd79]

i don't see why the car won't start. i had no choke on my accord and it was below freezing andmy car started right up without a problem.
you may have to rebuild the carb to make sure all the seals and gaskets are good.

[2oodoor]

I'm actually more concern about the car not starting. My pop's Accord wouldn't start at all when the temperature outside is below freezing because the choke on his car was stuck open. He said he had to remove the air box and cover the barrel of the carburetor with his hand, in order to start. I agree a manual choke is a good idea.
when I was running without choke on oem carb I pumped the gas about five times, crank, no start, pump the gas again about three or four times, it fired up and I had to kinda keep pumping it about quarter pedel four or five times to get it to run then it idled good enough to go inside the house, when I came out five minutes later she was good to go.

[bushbean]

...

[bushbean]

Another query:

There are three vacuum ports on the back of the carb that I can't get to easily, and left it alone. The Stage-One Removal Instruction does not say anything about these three ports. However, Stage-Three does say to plug them. Do I need to plug 'em for Stage-One?

P.s. I have done everything for Stage-One except the three ports described above, and the engine seems to idle and drive fine. However, I do get a whiff of gas odor when I pull the car into the garage. I did not recall smelling this before the vac removal.

[A20A1]

Stage 1 keeps letters A B & C connected to the carburetor... those ports are the air jet controller ports.

You should have labled hoses and where they connect to the carb beore you removed them so you know what goes where.

[bushbean]

Stage 1 keeps letters A B & C connected to the carburetor... those ports are the air jet controller ports.

You should have labled hoses and where they connect to the carb beore you removed them so you know what goes where.

No, the three ports that I'm talking about is below the ones for A, B, and C. The three ports below are beneath the idle stop screw, and I can't get my hand down into 'em. Stage-Three says to plug these, but I didn't touch 'em.

[A20A1]

do you have a picture... or copy and past the link to the pic that has the ports you are talking about.

if they are in these pics
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?p=458470&postcount=3

then follow the "KEY" the red ARROWS you plug with vacuum caps, and for the Orange and yellow EXCLAMATIONS you follow the instrictions.

anything not labled is probably not a vacuum line but a coolant line on the carb, do not confuse the two.

.
.

[bushbean]

If you look at that link, you'll see a picture of the back of the carbie for stages 2, 3, and 4. In this picture, you'll see two vacuum ports with red arrows. These ports are slightly below the idle stop screw (big black knob). For stage 2, 3, and 4, the guide shows red arrows, which means to plug 'em. However, for stage 1, the guide does not show any picture of the back of the carbie, and does not say whether to plug these two ports or not.

So, do these two ports need to be plugged for Stage One?

[A20A1]

yes
I was pretty sure that stage 1 says to plug any unused vacuum port... I may have forgotten to write that in though.

[bushbean]

yes
I was pretty sure that stage 1 says to plug any unused vacuum port...

Oh, I forgot about that instruction. I should've known to plug up everything not mentioned. I'll plug 'em and let yall know how it runs.

[bushbean]

Success! I plugged the ports at issue, and the car seems to run better. There's like extra h.p., and I don't smell the strong whiff of gas odor whenever I get out of my car. I don't know what those vacuum ports do, but plugging 'em sure made a difference. I'm pretty happy with stage-one vac removal, but I don't think I have any need to venture into further stages. Thanks yall!