Wierd ignition switch problem

[johnwc723]

Well I was driving today and all of a sudden my car dies. I thought maybe it was out of gas or something but it turns out there is a weird problem with the ignition switch:

The ignition switches on Accords have Position I, II, and III, III is start and II is everything on/car running after started. I played around with it a little bit and discovered that my car will only run (like its supposed to in position II) if the key is a little bit before position II or a little bit after it.

If I try to run the car in position II (like you are supposed to) electrical in the car cuts out and it won't run.

Anyone ever had an experience with this before? It's very strange, my car will run "almost in position II" but I'm very worried it will click into position II when I hit a bump and then my car will die (at a bad time).

[Blkblurr]

I had the same problem in my SE-i. Just replaced the contact block and the prbblem went away. It's quite common. I haven't seen you on here in a while. Welcome back!

[LX-incredible]

Wow, the price went up on these, $5 cheaper from honda: http://www.thehondapartsstore.com/herson/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1988&catcgry3=2DR+LXI&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=STEERING+WHEEL+SWITCH&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no
Free shipping with this one: http://catalog.drivewire.com/drivewire/baseline/wizard-newest.jsp?partner=drivewire&year=1989&make=HO&model=ACC-LXI4-001&category=All&part=Ignition+Switch

[w261w261]

A couple of years ago my ignition switch got weird and I got a new one from Honda. Before I had it installed, I took it to a locksmith, and he changed the tumblers so that my original key worked in the new lock. Only cost $25, and well worth it to not have to mess with a separate key. He also filed off the number on the lock, so that there would be no confusion down the line as to the correct key.

[LX-incredible]

A couple of years ago my ignition switch got weird and I got a new one from Honda. Before I had it installed, I took it to a locksmith, and he changed the tumblers so that my original key worked in the new lock. Only cost $25, and well worth it to not have to mess with a separate key. He also filed off the number on the lock, so that there would be no confusion down the line as to the correct key.
The actual ignition switch attaches to the back to the lock cylinder with 2 screws. You shouldn't have to replace the lock cylinder unless the key is becoming difficult to turn.

[w261w261]

<The actual ignition switch attaches to the back to the lock cylinder with 2 screws. You shouldn't have to replace the lock cylinder unless the key is becoming difficult to turn>

That was my problem, I was worried that one day I wouldn't be able to get the key to move. It was intermittent but I figured it could only get worse.

[LX-incredible]

<The actual ignition switch attaches to the back to the lock cylinder with 2 screws. You shouldn't have to replace the lock cylinder unless the key is becoming difficult to turn>
That was my problem, I was worried that one day I wouldn't be able to get the key to move. It was intermittent but I figured it could only get worse.
Probably a good call, they never get better.

[johnwc723]

Thanks for the welcome back Blkblurr, it has been awhile been busy with school and stuff and sadly my Accord has become more of a point A to B car.

Cool, I was hoping that was the problem, I took a look at the maintenance manual and saw the key assembly split into two parts and the contact block is definitely the cheapest of the two! As for now until I can get a new one it looks like I'm going to be hoping it doesn't pop out of the "working" position while I'm driving!

[2ndGenGuy]

My 2g had the same problem. Replaced the ignition switch and fixed the problem.

[johnwc723]

If anyone else has this problem in the future DON'T BUY A NEW ONE, I took it out and took it apart (it was very easy it just has little tabs that snap off on the sides) and I cleaned out the interior (with rubbing alcohol + qtips) that just consists of a bunch of metal contacts and I noticed that some of the contacts had black marks on them. I sanded down each of the contacts a bit till the marks and pits were gone, put some more grease in it, put it all back together and now it works just like new!

Two words of advice though, make sure to unplug your battery before taking out the switch, I fried one of those "hardcore" fuses in the engine box compartment because the solder points on the back of the switch aren't covered up and it touched ground on the steering wheel column. Also make sure you sand the contacts enough, I don't even think it would be possible to take too much off (within reason) because the whole thing is spring loaded to ensure contact.

Hope this helps someone and saves them from spending $50! Thanks for the help everyone else.

[mboardman]

Ive got what I think is a related issue - my key sometimes wont turn all the way to the off position, after shutting the car off, and allow me pull the key out. Ive also noticed the steering wheel must be in the centered position (wheels straight) for the key to release. The auto trans wont shift out of park either when this happens.

Is this an ignition switch issue? Or a shift interlock issue?

And just how much are the ignition switches anyway? I saw one link that quoted close to $200 for the assembly, but a post in this thread indicated only $50?

Either way, the key can be difficult to get out, but I have NOT experienced the car shutting off while driving. not yet at least. I also never have a problem starting the car - the key turns fine clockwise, no difficulty. Just removing the key is the problem.

[MessyHonda]

for mine the problem was the lil white switch behind were you put the key that was like 60 bucks from honda but it works fine...i notice the contracts get bad after i took the old one apart