Need help with suspension and cv clicks

[conozo]

So, recently i've been wanting to get my 3gee running perfectly. It was never in bad shape, i just want to get all the kinks out and i need help with a few things.

1)A little over a year ago i got new suspension.
H&R 1.5" lowering springs
-Front 265 lbs
-Rear 170 lbs
Bilstein H.D. (revalved)
-Compression 100
-Rebound 300

This suspension has worked well but its way to stiff. Short girls in my back seat have hit their heads on the roof. Its just way to bumpy when on roads. I was looking for a stiffer than stock suspension that felt more like jetta with sport suspension not a indy racecar. My question for you is what should i do to get a more comfortable ride. I want to keep my springs if possible, but i am willing to get regular bilstein shocks, but i thought that regular bilstein shocks were too loose thats why i got them revalved.


2) I just recently replace my cv halfshafts on both sides (88DX Auto). The parts came from advance auto. One of the boots on my driverside shaft was ripped open and it had been clicking since they were replaced the last time 60,000 miles ago. I wanted to get rid of the clicking, so i replaced both of them. The clicking is still there and here are my symptoms.
-first of all they only click when i make left turns after i replaced them
-if i am at a complete stop with my wheels straight ahead, and accelerate then turn left while accelerating they wont click
-if i am at a complete stop with my wheels turned to the left at any amount, and accelerate with the wheels turned they will click
-when they do click it doesnt have to be a complete turn either

thanks in advance

[skycam_313]

im not sure what it is....... but if you decide to sell your bilsteins.......:deal:

:D

[ghettogeddy]

try a set of tokicos mine seem to work great and its not to stiff and not to bumpy

[w261w261]

First, I should say that I have an SE-i, so your results may differ.

The original spring rates for the rear were 117 lb/in. You have gone up to 170lbs, so revalving the Bilsteins was probably the best thing to do. However, you are now paying the price. I have the Eibach 1" drop, which in the rear are actually softer than stock at about 100 lb/in. Although I have revalved Bilsteins at 340/110 on the front, on the rear I have the stock Bilsteins at 195/46. The car rides fine, with no bouncing or what you have.

I would think you would need to go to a softer spring and shock.

[shepherd79]

the only strut that would be some what be able to control stiffer springs are tokico struts. they are 10% stiffer than stock struts and it should give you a little smoother ride.
I say keep the front Bilstein and get tokico for the rear. rear is lighter and needs a lot less Compression/rebound to control.

[HondaBoy]

i was told to go with some tokico GR-2's for a somewhat soft ride used with the H&R springs, that is what i'm planning on going with. as for the cv axles, they may just be poorly remanufactured. i've had to replace mine a few times already because they apparently didnt match the cv joints internal parts correctly, i didnt take them apart to verify that but thats probably right. thats what sucks about remanufactured parts, they arent always perfect in their specs.

[w261w261]

I've pretty much given up on remanufactured parts from anyone except Honda. Honda parts cost somewhat more, but you know what you're getting. Finding out that a cheapo reman part is bad after it fails, is a pain and expensive for labor too. I just bought a Cardone distributor, and had to bring it back and fight with them over the refund. What a hassle.

I have bought a couple of Honda remanufactured half-shafts. They're still going strong after about 80,000 on one and not quite the same on the other.

[MessyHonda]

i have 1.5 inch neuspeed drop springs(same specs as H&Rs) with tokicos blues...my car does not bounce it feels solid......i say its your rims also....switch over to stellies for a day and you will notice a diference....

[87LXiR]

My guess would be that its still your cv joints. If you replace them i would say go with remanufactured honda. Im not sure how much they are but im sure theyre worth the price. I know cash can most times be an issue as is the case with me most of the time but its better to do it right the first time. I replaced mine with autozones premium ones and those things suck ass, ive already replaced them once cuz of their lifetime warranty and now i need them again :rant: .
Anyways about your springs i was considering getting those and running them with tokicos, would you say its the shocks themslves that are too stiff or the springs, just curious.

[Rockcord]

I have the same clicking problem EXACTLY, and I havent decided what to do, I do know that its the CV, but I am really broke and havent had time / $ to do it myself yet... so GL to you, I hope all gets fixed

[HondaBoy]

the only way i buy from auto parts stores is if the part has a lifetime warranty. lucky for me just about everything i have put on my car does.

[shepherd79]

if you pay a little more and get premium product with more warranty it will pay off later.

[forrest89sei]

Yeah I had the clicking problem, and replaced both of mine with BRAND NEW, No Reman Cardone CV Shafts.

They've been good so far and have a great warranty

[Oldblueaccord]

I agree so far I have the new cardone shaft and its running good. I do notice thats it vibrates alot less as well.

As far as the rear springs is that short girls or fat girls? Its possible maybe with 2 people in the back and the lowering being more than 1.5" that your bottoming out the suspension.



wp

[MessyHonda]

As far as the rear springs is that short girls or fat girls? Its possible maybe with 2 people in the back and the lowering being more than 1.5" that your bottoming out the suspension.
wp


:burn:

[conozo]

ok it looks like ill go to the Honda dealership to buy new cv axles

and with the suspension i feel that its my struts that are too stiff causing the bumpy ride. Its not bottoming out or anything like that, it just doesnt give at all with any bump on the road. Originally i had this suspension on regular 13" steelies but when i got the wheels it didnt make the ride more bumpy by much. They are 16" wheels anyways. Does anyone else have tokicos with H&R springs, if so how does it ride? Again im looking for a ride similar to a car with factory sport suspension.

[conozo]

I went to the dealership today and asked how much the cv axles are. They want $255 each and majestic wants $300 each. Im not going to pay that for remanufactured parts.

I have been noticing that the prices for parts at the honda dealorship have risen dramatically in the past year and a half. I really think they are trying to raise the prices so much that they force us to buy new cars.

As for the struts i think im going to get tokico blues and sell my revalved bilsteins. That will be sometime in the summer and ill let you guys have first dibs on my bilsteins.

[w261w261]

I went to the dealership today and asked how much the cv axles are. They want $255 each and majestic wants $300 each. Im not going to pay that for remanufactured parts.

Whoa Hoss! $300 for an axle from Majestic? I don't think so. They sell em for $116 plus refundable core deposit.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/remanparts.jsp?catcgry4=DRIVESHAFTS&catcgry5=86-89%20ACCORD%204%20DOOR%205MT

[conozo]

whats going on, ive been going to a different majestic parts website!?

check here, it says $317 each
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1988&catcgry3=4DR+DX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=DRIVESHAFT

i cant get the core value back anyways, since i dont have the original honda axles anymore. They just told me i have to have to return honda parts to get money back.

[MessyHonda]

go to napa for my dx i got them like 49 bucks a piece and for my dx like 89 for both.....its only the part....i did have to pay the 160 bucks for core on the dx...and the lx-i i didnt since the guy knows me now

[w261w261]

[QUOTE=conozo]whats going on, ive been going to a different majestic parts website!?

check here, it says $317 each
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1988&catcgry3=4DR+DX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=DRIVESHAFT /QUOTE]

I think that's brand new stuff. Go to the "remanufactured" section on the home page, or the link I put in my last message.

[87lxiaccord]

i've got tokicos with stupid ebay springs but the ride is pretty smooth not too rough and not bouncy. If you want to trade...:deal:

[conozo]

So i just finished these two problems with my car last night.

I replaced my rear revalved bilsteins with Tokico blues and left the front as they are (revalved billsteins)

Then i replaced my advanceauto axles with honda remanufactured axles and everything is better now.

The car rides sooo much smoother, its definately the ride i want. Very responsive, bumpier than stock, but smooth enough not to hit your head on the ceiling when sitting in the back.

And with the new honda axles i dont hear any clicking anymore, now i can do a complete turn without that horrible clicking sound. Also my steering is more smooth and easier.

[LX-incredible]

It really makes a difference with quality parts. Cardone axles suck and their "new" axles are actually just remans without a core charge. I got one of these for the driver's side, it was about two weeks and it started making noise again. EMPI axles are new, made with excellent quality, and under $100. GKN axles are also good, but can be pricey.

[Kelvin]

ok it looks like ill go to the Honda dealership to buy new cv axles

and with the suspension i feel that its my struts that are too stiff causing the bumpy ride. Its not bottoming out or anything like that, it just doesnt give at all with any bump on the road. Originally i had this suspension on regular 13" steelies but when i got the wheels it didnt make the ride more bumpy by much. They are 16" wheels anyways. Does anyone else have tokicos with H&R springs, if so how does it ride? Again im looking for a ride similar to a car with factory sport suspension.

The 'no giving' part of the suspension= your springs are way too stiff. Struts don't ever give, they just control the speed at which the springs give.

[86AccordLxi]

lol @ h&r springs being too stiff. Those are the softest lowering springs you can get. Rear rates are maybe 20% stiffer than stock, iirc (of note, ride quality is mostly determined by how stiff the rear is).

You have a lot lower profile tires with 13, which means less sidewall and compliance, which contributes to the rougher ride. Not much you can do about it, short of putting your stock springs back on.

Alex

[Oldblueaccord]

Well I still think it was your suspension bottoming out.Not trying to beat a dead horse or anything. The HR springs don’t sound to much stiffer than the numbers I have for our cars.

TRW Coil Spring Front
Part Number: CC248 86-89 Accord/88-89 Prelude
INSIDE DIA.= 2.5 in.:
BAR DIA.= 0.5 in.:
FREE HEIGHT= 12.88 in.:
SPRING RATE= 278.5 Lbs./In.:
LOAD= 524 Lbs.:
LOAD HEIGHT= 11 in.:
END 1= SQUARE:
END 2= TANGENT

TRW Coil Spring REAR
Part Number: CC221 86-89
INSIDE DIA.= 3.062 in.:
BAR DIA.= 0.485 in.:
FREE HEIGHT= 13.27 in.:
SPRING RATE= 170 Lbs./In.:
LOAD= 387 Lbs.:
LOAD HEIGHT= 11 in.:
END 1= SQUARE:
END 2= TANGENTI

The strut numbers say we have about 4 inch travel in the front and 6 in the rear stock so and lowering is going to cut into that then weight added to the rear.

88 Lxi accord frnt Strut
Item#: NS 71829 (NAPA
Body Length:11.000"
Compressed Length:11.125"
Extended length:15.250"
Travel Length:4.125"
Rod Nut #:Included in parts pack
Parts Pack(s) #:P906

Item#: RR 201227 Rear Strut NAPA
Attributes:
Body Length:15.375"
Compressed Length:15.500"
Extended length:22.125"
Travel Length:6.625"
Upper Mtg. Nut Number:Included in parts pack
Parts Pack(s) #:P878

Still doesn’t explain why the Blues are working and the revalved Bilsteins don’t. But im wondering more if there possibly blown.

Wp

[Kelvin]

lol @ h&r springs being too stiff. Those are the softest lowering springs you can get. Rear rates are maybe 20% stiffer than stock, iirc (of note, ride quality is mostly determined by how stiff the rear is).

You have a lot lower profile tires with 13, which means less sidewall and compliance, which contributes to the rougher ride. Not much you can do about it, short of putting your stock springs back on.

Alex

I thought NEUSPEEED springs were the softest available, at least according to the FAQ.

[Kelvin]

It really makes a difference with quality parts. Cardone axles suck and their "new" axles are actually just remans without a core charge. I got one of these for the driver's side, it was about two weeks and it started making noise again. EMPI axles are new, made with excellent quality, and under $100. GKN axles are also good, but can be pricey.

Where's a good place to buy these EMPI axles? I need new ones, and I'd like to get something of high quality WITH a long warranty, preferably lifetime.

[LX-incredible]

Where's a good place to buy these EMPI axles?
http://www.drivewire.com

[MessyHonda]

I thought NEUSPEEED springs were the softest available, at least according to the FAQ.



they have the same spring rate....i have nuespeed and the ride is good. not too bumpy but nice and tight in the corners.