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View Full Version : cutting time off of my 1/4 mile



BASS_racer
03-21-2007, 08:44 AM
alright so here's the deal, i want to know what kind of time i would run after i finish all my planned mods for this year...

currently i have:
2.25 exhaust with arospeed muffler
weapon-r short ram
pacesetter short shifter


planning on:
S&S header
magnaflow hi-flow cat
msd ignition
coil blaster
8.5 mm wires
copper plugs

and finally a 50 shot of NX


how much time off of stock could i take off with and without the nitrous?

MessyHonda
03-21-2007, 08:45 AM
16sec

mkymonkey
03-21-2007, 09:09 AM
pffft youre wrong jesse


16.1secs

MessyHonda
03-21-2007, 09:15 AM
pffft youre wrong jesse


16.1secs


yeah just kick out your fatty friends and it will set it back to 16...duh Adrian.

teck
03-21-2007, 10:01 AM
you two stealing someones thread again

87lxiaccord
03-21-2007, 10:38 AM
maybe a 15.5

BASS_racer
03-21-2007, 11:36 AM
yeah just kick out your fatty friends and it will set it back to 16...duh Adrian.
i dont have any friends...
but honestly i'm a lighweight guy...


hmm i was looking for a little better than a 16 but its what i expected...what more would i have to do to get running in the 15's consistently...even high 15's

AccordEpicenter
03-21-2007, 04:06 PM
weight reduction, and cam at least to get into 15s. I was running high 15s with minor mods and big weight reduction but i also was a good driver

snoopyloopy
03-21-2007, 04:34 PM
since you said you're a light guy, if you're a good driver, you could possibly swing a mid-low 15 with slicks. but yeah, definitely in the 15 second range.

LiTtLe xOx BitT
03-21-2007, 04:38 PM
You will need a camshaft and gear to complete your bolt-ons and head work wouldnt hurt either and you might want to look into a CAI not a short ram. Other then that lower the car for better aerodynamics and do a bunch of weight reduction like take out the A/C, cruise control, P/S, remove backseat, spare tire, carbon hood ECT. Your car stock probably ran like a 17.5 so to take 2 full seconds off will be a little bit of work. Be careful with nitrious, its not as safe as the movies make it look, you can really damage your motor pretty easy. How many miles do you have on your motor? And try starting off on a smaller shot like a 35 and run that for a while before bumping it up. Honestly though with the money you will spend on the mods your listing and the mods you still need, plus the cost having to refill the nitrious bottle it will be more cost effective to go turbo IMO and you will beable to see 14's in the 1/4 mile.
Cam gear- $150
Camshaft- 100
Nitrious kit- $500 plus Bottle refill- $40 each time
S&S header- $350
CAI- $50
Headwork- $300
MSD ignition- $250
Blaster coil- $40
And the price for all of this doesnt include installation prices and they are rough estimates. You probably have to have your motor rebuilt to safely run nitrious and all of you upgrades and thats like a $350 kit. You definatly have to upgrade your clutch and pressure plate and probably get a lightweight flywheel which is like another $300-$500. Even if you spent all that money for bolt-ons which is a little over 2k, maybe a little under if you find good prices and you will only be putting down like 15.0-15.5. If you spend a little more you can do a turbo and be able to 14's or even 13's if done right. Trust me I spent a lot of money on bolt-ons and the power isnt enough, i raced cars with half the modifications i have and they were tough to beat. I think the average amount of horsepower for only bolt-ons and head work for our cars is like 150hp and thats not a lot for a car that weighs 2700lbs plus driver. A 2300lb civic hatch with 120hp will probably be a challange. But all of that is just my opinion from experience. If you want something respectable at the street races or the track then go turbo, if you just want to mess around and race other stock or slightly modded cars the do bolt-ons.

89l_x_i
03-21-2007, 04:52 PM
With your current mods probably low 17s and everything else minus nitrous high 16s. Its gonna be tought and take a lot of work and money to get your car into the 15s na. Look at all the work openloop did to their car and it was running mid 15s.

MessyHonda
03-21-2007, 05:16 PM
With your current mods probably low 17s and everything else minus nitrous high 16s. Its gonna be tought and take a lot of work and money to get your car into the 15s na. Look at all the work openloop did to their car and it was running mid 15s.


well they have not taken it to the track since they did all the work....he was guessing he could get into mid 15s....but i think its a 14 sec car....cuz he said it pulls harder than a GSR

AccordEpicenter
03-21-2007, 07:09 PM
i believe a high 14 sec car

ChaseR
03-21-2007, 08:36 PM
Bass Racer, Dude the best time I am getting at this alitude here in El Paso is 15.5, Cobalt SS and SRT's are in the 15.0 - 15.4 range. Just a FYI...... Stock Civic Si at Sea Level is capable of 14.2, SS and SRT dip into the 13's down there. I guess a benchmark for you, living at nearly 5000 feet means 88% air density.. And Beleive Me I feel it when we have to go run up Mckelligon Canyon up by Beaumont..

Oh and Heres a "timeslip" of a Si doing just that, http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/member.php?do=vehicledetails&userid=8564

Plus the track out at Desert Demonz Sucks, Will I see you out there Friday night?

89l_x_i
03-21-2007, 09:43 PM
^^^^^^^^^^^hes right youll run mid to high 17s on that set up and youll definetly need nitrous to get into the 16s and about openloops car, they got a ton of time and money into that car. For anyone to come close to those numbers it will cost them even more money. Of course its gonna feel like it pulls more than a gsr, its got more torque. Plus feeling like it pulls more and actually pulling more are two totally different things.

2drSE-i
03-22-2007, 05:31 AM
ya butt dyno is not very accurate, especially with our torquey low end beasts

BASS_racer
03-22-2007, 06:34 AM
You will need a camshaft and gear to complete your bolt-ons and head work wouldnt hurt either and you might want to look into a CAI not a short ram. Other then that lower the car for better aerodynamics and do a bunch of weight reduction like take out the A/C, cruise control, P/S, remove backseat, spare tire, carbon hood ECT. Your car stock probably ran like a 17.5 so to take 2 full seconds off will be a little bit of work. Be careful with nitrious, its not as safe as the movies make it look, you can really damage your motor pretty easy. How many miles do you have on your motor? And try starting off on a smaller shot like a 35 and run that for a while before bumping it up. Honestly though with the money you will spend on the mods your listing and the mods you still need, plus the cost having to refill the nitrious bottle it will be more cost effective to go turbo IMO and you will beable to see 14's in the 1/4 mile.
Cam gear- $150
Camshaft- 100
Nitrious kit- $500 plus Bottle refill- $40 each time
S&S header- $350
CAI- $50
Headwork- $300
MSD ignition- $250
Blaster coil- $40
And the price for all of this doesnt include installation prices and they are rough estimates. You probably have to have your motor rebuilt to safely run nitrious and all of you upgrades and thats like a $350 kit. You definatly have to upgrade your clutch and pressure plate and probably get a lightweight flywheel which is like another $300-$500. Even if you spent all that money for bolt-ons which is a little over 2k, maybe a little under if you find good prices and you will only be putting down like 15.0-15.5. If you spend a little more you can do a turbo and be able to 14's or even 13's if done right. Trust me I spent a lot of money on bolt-ons and the power isnt enough, i raced cars with half the modifications i have and they were tough to beat. I think the average amount of horsepower for only bolt-ons and head work for our cars is like 150hp and thats not a lot for a car that weighs 2700lbs plus driver. A 2300lb civic hatch with 120hp will probably be a challange. But all of that is just my opinion from experience. If you want something respectable at the street races or the track then go turbo, if you just want to mess around and race other stock or slightly modded cars the do bolt-ons.

yeah, i was adding it all up and i'm gonna need a lot of $$...the problem is i don't have the knowledge or experience to do a turbo and the car is my daily driver, so bolt-on mods seem like the only option at the moment...

and yeah the only reason i'm considering nitrous is that i only have about 5K miles after my engine rebuild so i'm pretty it could handle a pretty good amount of nitrous right now don't worry i'm not a F&F fanboy or anything like that...my clutch is also new...i'm not looking for a huge amount of power but i figured it'd be pretty fun to be running in the 15's in my 3g

thanks for your help though



...and no street racing for me

BASS_racer
03-22-2007, 06:40 AM
Bass Racer, Dude the best time I am getting at this alitude here in El Paso is 15.5, Cobalt SS and SRT's are in the 15.0 - 15.4 range. Just a FYI...... Stock Civic Si at Sea Level is capable of 14.2, SS and SRT dip into the 13's down there. I guess a benchmark for you, living at nearly 5000 feet means 88% air density.. And Beleive Me I feel it when we have to go run up Mckelligon Canyon up by Beaumont..
Oh and Heres a "timeslip" of a Si doing just that, http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/member.php?do=vehicledetails&userid=8564
Plus the track out at Desert Demonz Sucks, Will I see you out there Friday night?


yeah, i have plenty of experience with desert demonz and i hate it, but at least its a place to go out and race

but yeah when i mean 16's and 15's...that's already adjusted with el paso...so when someone says i could run a 16, i'm already thinking 17

...maybe i'll go out there on friday night...i work but hopefully i'll be able to get out early....

MessyHonda
03-22-2007, 07:50 AM
^^^^^^^^^^^hes right youll run mid to high 17s on that set up and youll definetly need nitrous to get into the 16s and about openloops car, they got a ton of time and money into that car. For anyone to come close to those numbers it will cost them even more money. Of course its gonna feel like it pulls more than a gsr, its got more torque. Plus feeling like it pulls more and actually pulling more are two totally different things.
:welcome: ive seen and been in the car.......he had drag radial tires and he still had a bit of traction lost.....it was funny cuz we passed an older guy in a 240 and he just started looking at us.

i think mike knows what he is talking about cuz he said he had a GSR engine in his civic hatchback and it was too wild for the streets so he just put a LS vtec in it

LiTtLe xOx BitT
03-22-2007, 08:38 AM
yeah, i was adding it all up and i'm gonna need a lot of $$...the problem is i don't have the knowledge or experience to do a turbo and the car is my daily driver, so bolt-on mods seem like the only option at the moment...
and yeah the only reason i'm considering nitrous is that i only have about 5K miles after my engine rebuild so i'm pretty it could handle a pretty good amount of nitrous right now don't worry i'm not a F&F fanboy or anything like that...my clutch is also new...i'm not looking for a huge amount of power but i figured it'd be pretty fun to be running in the 15's in my 3g
thanks for your help though
...and no street racing for me
You can do all bolt-ons and have some fun in it, im having fun in mine i just want more. You should start off with a CAI and header since you already have the exhaust. Then get an ADJ cam gear. Then go to the junkyard and pull a head off of the lowest mileage car you find, buy a camshaft and give it to a machine shop to port, 3-angle valve job and install the camshaft. Then just put it on, its pretty easy it shows you how in the repair manual. With those mods, nitrious and lowering the car and as much weight reduction as possible you will have a lot of fun.

BASS_racer
03-22-2007, 09:24 AM
You can do all bolt-ons and have some fun in it, im having fun in mine i just want more. You should start off with a CAI and header since you already have the exhaust. Then get an ADJ cam gear. Then go to the junkyard and pull a head off of the lowest mileage car you find, buy a camshaft and give it to a machine shop to port, 3-angle valve job and install the camshaft. Then just put it on, its pretty easy it shows you how in the repair manual. With those mods, nitrious and lowering the car and as much weight reduction as possible you will have a lot of fun.

how much would all that head work cost me?

$300, $500, more?

rjudgey
03-22-2007, 10:43 AM
Lots if done properly. Best bet is to start off with bolt ons and put the car on a diet loosing weight is the fastest mod you can make!!

89l_x_i
03-22-2007, 03:53 PM
The only way your car is seeing 15s in el paso is with all those mods, intake, header, exhaust, cam, cam gear, b intake, tb, pnp, gutted and 100 shot or a very good turbo set up. Look at the 1/4 mile threads. Hardly anyone hits 15's na http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20141

AccordEpicenter
03-22-2007, 04:00 PM
nobody has weight reduction. My car weighed a little over 2300lb pre turbo

LiTtLe xOx BitT
03-22-2007, 04:48 PM
how much would all that head work cost me?
$300, $500, more?
Two places quoted me around $325 and that included installing the camshaft because it needs to come out anyway so all they are really doing is replacing the old one with the new one.

ChaseR
03-22-2007, 05:43 PM
how much would all that head work cost me?
$300, $500, more?

Well man If you head out to Desert Demonz Friday look For Me, I will be there and I am usually parked Next to a 4dr Si a Blue and somtimes the white Si Shows up...