A simple question....I hope

[Blazin]

Hello all, first off, awsome forum's. Found a crap load of info already.
Just bought my first Honda, 1987 4 door Accord Ex-I,(I think) just a beater now, not sure weather I want to spend to much gettin er done, kinda a rust bucket but still pullin strong. 1200$ canuk buks
My question, is the Ex-I the same as the Lx-I ? Cus im having trouble finding parts for it.
If not where can I get aftermarket parts for it in B.C. Canada
Thanks in advance.

[mkymonkey]

lol good luck finding any aftermarket parts. and yes the exi is the canadian version of the lxi. the only aftermarket parts that you will find for your car are universal stuff. like an msd coil, a generic honda short ram intake, msd wires some ngk spark plugs and the list goes on on universal shit. but stuff made for your accord....not so much.

use the search feature up top to look for what you want to inquire about. so like if youre looking for a cold air intake type in "cai" on the search and go from there. same goes for exhause and other stuff like lowering springs

good luck maing

[Blazin]

Wow thanks for the quick response.
Thats about all im lookin for, nothing special, tried to search for (exi) and so on but couldnt find anthing so I thought I'd ask,
Thanks for clearing that up, :) Cheers Mk

[Pico]

:welcome: to the forum
Like Mky said you'll have to adapt some performance parts to the car if you want to add non-stock related parts.
There's very little aftermarket support for our cars :(
Search and you'll find alot that you can do

[MessyHonda]

:welcome:

most people here drive these cars because they are cheap to maintain. it kinda sucks that most of the northern cars have rust problems. but if you want performance you can get a header/intake(custom)/exhuast and a cam....il sure give you a kick in the pants comprared to stock....but other wise these cars give out ok performance for the value

[Blazin]

Ya no sh1t, but compaired to the 89 Dodge caravan cargo my friends nicknamed "THE ABDUCTOR" this little ol honda's quite impressive, been having a blast all weekend long, dont wana spend 2 much on it cus it is so old and rusty but after i get my stereo and sub in, a CAI and headers is definitly on my to do list.
Just talking to a friend of mine he took his 88 accord to 750,000 km's befor it kicked, thats awsome.

Thanks for the welcome all, lookin forward to using this forum to the fullest, and if any of you guys get a chance to come up to beautifull British Columbia, look me up for some of the best dam pot in the world.

[snoopyloopy]

yeah, these aren't bad cars. they can be made to be reasonably quick-feeling (thanks to that a20 torque!). but be sure to keep us updated.

[Crazybird]

are u sure its car theft capital... im pretty sure its Winnipeg for that and murder capital aswell

[Blazin]

are u sure its car theft capital... im pretty sure its Winnipeg for that and murder capital aswell
Nahh dude, check this out
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surrey,_British_Columbia
"With numerous easy access and exit routes, Surrey, once branded the car theft capital of North America."

http://www.baitcar.com
http://www.baitcar.com/video/oncoming
Some of Surrey's finest lol check out the vid's of the fcuked up dude on meth. its a zoo down here i tell ya, a zoo.

but i think u guys got the murder cap of Canada lol and u can keep that.

[1ajs]

were car theft capital of canada but not murder captial that belongs to regina

http://www.winnipeg.ca/crimestat/city.stm

[BITESIZE]

Welcome, and remember to drink lots of beer while working on your 3gee!

[MessyHonda]

Welcome, and remember to drink lots of beer while working on your 3gee!



no thanks....i would rather drive it than work on it. our cars liked to get driven not just stay in a garage

[w261w261]

Hi, and welcome to the site. Here's my suggestion: you should forget about ALL the performance stuff, except maybe a CD player that works, and first concentrate on getting the car together so it won't let you down on the road. When that's done, worry about a CAI or whatever. Hit the safety stuff first, then the reliability stuff.

Safety:
1. First and foremost...how are the ball joints? Use the search to read up on how to check them. A ball joint popping out while you're driving can cause a nasty wreck.
2. Tires: if they're bald or have dry rot or a ply separation, get rid of them and buy some new ones, expecially on the front. Our cars are sensitive about front wheel things, so get two tires that are matched.
3. Front bushings: the radius rod ("strut rod") bushings get a lot of stress. They're not expensive or hard to replace, and they keep things from banging around. If you're getting knocking noises when you go over bumps, that could be what it is. There are other bushings too on the sway bar(s) and various pivots.

Reliability:
1. Cooling hoses, check em out for being cracked or spongy. They should be replaced every couple of years. Don't overlook the little hoses that snake around by the thermostat. They will leak just like the big ones, but you'll have more time to get home.
2. Flush coolant. If it's rusty, then it's definitely time. Do a search and learn how to bleed the cooling system, it's easy.
3. Learn how to find the coolant level in the bottle. The overflow bottle is located in a hard-to-see spot down by the battery. Over the years, the inside gets coated with schmutz so it's hard to see how much is in there. You don't want to avoid checking it, as your next warning might be a good overheat with the accompanying warpage of the cylinder head - bye bye. It's not a big job to take out the battery, the battery tray, and then remove the bottle and clean it up so you can see what's going on. Fluids are SO important to keep monitored on old cars. If the bottle is now totally opaque, you can remove the tube and cap going into it and put in a dipstick. Anything you can do to avoid overheating.
4. If you change your own oil, you can also check out the CV boots while you're down there. Clicking on turns means that a CV joint is saying goodbye, and the usual reason they fail is the rubber boot breaks, allowing road sand to get into the joint.

That's a start. Also, there is a lot, and I mean a LOT, of aftermarket OEM replacement junk out there. Honda brand stuff is expensive, but you know it's quality. Valve cover gaskets for instance. I once had a mechanic have to drop the tranny 3 times total because he used a cheap rear main engine seal instead of spending another 5 bucks for a Honda brand piece.

This site is really great, and will be a big asset to you, in whichever way you go with the car. LEARN TO USE THE SEARCH FUCNTION. It will pay off big time for you. The guys (and a couple of women) are great.

Good luck.

[russiankid]

Hi, and welcome to the site. Here's my suggestion: you should forget about ALL the performance stuff, except maybe a CD player that works, and first concentrate on getting the car together so it won't let you down on the road. When that's done, worry about a CAI or whatever. Hit the safety stuff first, then the reliability stuff.
Safety:
1. First and foremost...how are the ball joints? Use the search to read up on how to check them. A ball joint popping out while you're driving can cause a nasty wreck.
2. Tires: if they're bald or have dry rot or a ply separation, get rid of them and buy some new ones, expecially on the front. Our cars are sensitive about front wheel things, so get two tires that are matched.
3. Front bushings: the radius rod ("strut rod") bushings get a lot of stress. They're not expensive or hard to replace, and they keep things from banging around. If you're getting knocking noises when you go over bumps, that could be what it is. There are other bushings too on the sway bar(s) and various pivots.
Reliability:
1. Cooling hoses, check em out for being cracked or spongy. They should be replaced every couple of years. Don't overlook the little hoses that snake around by the thermostat. They will leak just like the big ones, but you'll have more time to get home.
2. Flush coolant. If it's rusty, then it's definitely time. Do a search and learn how to bleed the cooling system, it's easy.
3. Learn how to find the coolant level in the bottle. The overflow bottle is located in a hard-to-see spot down by the battery. Over the years, the inside gets coated with schmutz so it's hard to see how much is in there. You don't want to avoid checking it, as your next warning might be a good overheat with the accompanying warpage of the cylinder head - bye bye. It's not a big job to take out the battery, the battery tray, and then remove the bottle and clean it up so you can see what's going on. Fluids are SO important to keep monitored on old cars. If the bottle is now totally opaque, you can remove the tube and cap going into it and put in a dipstick. Anything you can do to avoid overheating.
4. If you change your own oil, you can also check out the CV boots while you're down there. Clicking on turns means that a CV joint is saying goodbye, and the usual reason they fail is the rubber boot breaks, allowing road sand to get into the joint.
That's a start. Also, there is a lot, and I mean a LOT, of aftermarket OEM replacement junk out there. Honda brand stuff is expensive, but you know it's quality. Valve cover gaskets for instance. I once had a mechanic have to drop the tranny 3 times total because he used a cheap rear main engine seal instead of spending another 5 bucks for a Honda brand piece.
This site is really great, and will be a big asset to you, in whichever way you go with the car. LEARN TO USE THE SEARCH FUCNTION. It will pay off big time for you. The guys (and a couple of women) are great.
Good luck.
Great right up:thumbup:. To add to this, be aware that on old cars, bolts tend to be stuck or rusted. Using any type of penetrating lube will help. Good thing to do is to use the correct size socket or wrenches, that will prevent stripping the bolts which will lead to complications on getting them or it out.

[tuxdreamerx]

look me up for some of the best dam pot in the world.

Pot :wave: :flash: I want some lol

[1ajs]

Great right up:thumbup:. To add to this, be aware that on old cars, bolts tend to be stuck or rusted. Using any type of penetrating lube will help. Good thing to do is to use the correct size socket or wrenches, that will prevent stripping the bolts which will lead to complications on getting them or it out.
when you take bolts of rember to greas the threads befor you put them back on prevents them from seazing and makes life esayer down the road. just don't greas the lug nutz

so go to canadian tire and pic up one of thoughs containers of greese with the brush in it and put it on the shelf in the tool shed/garadge. get a set of metric renches and sockets you can just leave in the trunk

[ghettogeddy]

Pot :wave: :flash: I want some lol
ain't nothing finer then northern cali bud lol and i dont even smoke lol

[Blazin]

Thanks for the write up and my new check list w261 :cheers: m8 guys like you keep these fourms rockin :thumbup:
Deffinitly gona keep this puppy a long time, I've kinda fallen in luv with her over the last week, a ton of room for a big boy, and its gona get all the t.l.c I can giveer, withought the gf gettin 2 jelouse.
She deffinitly needs alot of lube like any good woman that's gona treat you well....:violin:
The fourm is a wicked tool and have been searching and reading till my eyes hurt. Nothing better to do at work lol.
Hats off to you guys alot of usefull info. about 11 pages every search I do lol.
Ya but getto, we dont go to jail for a dime bag.

[ghettogeddy]

nor do my boys lol hell the cops wont mess with us for under a zip