Help?!?!?!

[PearlDrummer00]

So i finished my 5 speed swap and it starts up smoothly, but when i let out the clutch theres a grinding noise....take note i am in nuetral. So we tried starting it what the CLUTCH IN while in gear and it wants to hop foward. So since the clutch was in does that mean its not disengageing all the way?....Also it couldnt be a tranny poblem could it or else it would make that noise all the time right? I need some advice QUICK!!!

[Pico]

not sure, but you did make sure everything is tight, the disc is installed correctly, the release bearing is being held on firm by the clips.
How tight/loose is your cable adjusted? what oil did you use?
I'm not sure what to tell you I'm just throwing out these questions thinking about what we did when I did my swap

[PearlDrummer00]

Im pretty sure everything is installed right...I tried tighten the cable..didnt do much. But what i dont understand is since the Clutch is IN and it not disengageing is the problem....why would it make a high pitch grinding noise. btw H30w oil

[Pico]

if it's not disengaging your cable may be binding up. How much up and down play do you have on the arm on the trans. where the cable is attached?

[BITESIZE]

Something is wrong with your clutch. It shouldn't hop forward with the clutch pushed in right? Something is wrong with your cable probably. It's probably something stupid and not hard to fix.

[shepherd79]

start with cable.
does the noice gets louder as you rev it? you may have loose flywheel bolts.

[PearlDrummer00]

No with the clutch all the way in there is NO noise at all and i can rev it as much as i want. And the Clutch arm has ZERO play at all and is really hard to push up imatating me pushing it in with my foot. I was also told the clutch plate can be put on backwards (even tho i thought i did it right) Could this explanation hold ??

[ghettogeddy]

No with the clutch all the way in there is NO noise at all and i can rev it as much as i want. And the Clutch arm has ZERO play at all and is really hard to push up imatating me pushing it in with my foot. I was also told the clutch plate can be put on backwards (even tho i thought i did it right) Could this explanation hold ??
clkutch plate would be a bitch to put in backwards does the car drive at all

[russiankid]

Did you tighten the pressure plate correctly? Did you torque down the flywheel correctly?

[PearlDrummer00]

Well no it cant drive at al because i cant let out the clutch an inch without it screaming like a cheapo chainsaw....
and im pretty sure everything was bolten down correctly...i had my friend do that for me cuz he was more familier with it

[ghettogeddy]

could be the tranny

[PearlDrummer00]

if it was the tranny wouldnt it make that noise wether the clutch was in or out? If it was the tranny what would make the clutch NOT disengage.

[ghettogeddy]

ya the tranny is only moving when u take the clutch out if u put it in neutral does it grind

[russiankid]

Something has to be up with your release arm/bearing.

[ghettogeddy]

did u change the release baring or maybe u out it in backwards

[russiankid]

did u change the release baring or maybe u out it in backwards
My brother helped me change mine when i did my clutch. I don't think you can install it backwards. I hope he replaced the spring too. If he didn't maybe it could have popped.

[PearlDrummer00]

i didnt kno you could put it in backwards can you?

[ghettogeddy]

i think u can if i had my old one id try it on my spare tranny if u havent figured this out by the 30 i should have my 3rd 5speed laying around so i can test it

[PearlDrummer00]

well i replaced the bearing with a new but it took it out cuz of what looked like shitty engineering...so i put the throw out bearing that CAME with the tranny back in cuz it seemed to fit better and have less play. Is there suppose to be any play at all? I dont kno but Im just getting everything put back together and if the noise still persists then its gotta be somthing up with the tranny because the clutch assembly was dead on. So i guess we'll see

[russiankid]

well i replaced the bearing with a new but it took it out cuz of what looked like shitty engineering...so i put the throw out bearing that CAME with the tranny back in cuz it seemed to fit better and have less play. Is there suppose to be any play at all? I dont kno but Im just getting everything put back together and if the noise still persists then its gotta be somthing up with the tranny because the clutch assembly was dead on. So i guess we'll see
There should be no play in the bearing.

[PearlDrummer00]

well i meant play between It and the shaft. But So i got eerything back together. Still Grinds but i noticded this time it was different. Then i realized my clutch cable was all the LOOSE. So i tighten it... The grind soon fades away to nuthing so i took it out for a drive. The clutch slips like a mother. And i heard if the clutch cable is To tight it WILL slip. So my Question is....would the length of the clutch cable affect tention in anyway, even tho you can tighten the LOOSER cable just as tight as the one that might be shorter.....cuz from where my clutch cable lies by the throttle cable, it goes all the way by where the hood might shut before "U-ing" off towards the fire wall. So this might be my only explanation left. But Still.....What can be GRINDING??!

[PearlDrummer00]

I GOT IT!?!?!?! I did a search on pilot bushings and came up with someone who was haveing the same problem as me....Turns out the end of the main shaft on the tranny was bigger on 88 and 89 models then the 86 and 87 models. Mines an 88 but my trannys from an 86 lude. I found out that to make up for the smaller main shaft and the 86-87 trannys there was a pilot bushing put in. So I Buddy Fuct myself not putting a pilot bushing at the end of my crank to make up for the small shaft of the tranny. DAMN!!!!!

[russiankid]

Well sounds like you resolved your problem. On the clutch note, make sure you adjust the clutch free play properly. In the shop manual, look into the clutch adjustment.

[2oodoor]

I GOT IT!?!?!?! I did a search on pilot bushings and came up with someone who was haveing the same problem as me....Turns out the end of the main shaft on the tranny was bigger on 88 and 89 models then the 86 and 87 models. Mines an 88 but my trannys from an 86 lude. I found out that to make up for the smaller main shaft and the 86-87 trannys there was a pilot bushing put in. So I Buddy Fuct myself not putting a pilot bushing at the end of my crank to make up for the small shaft of the tranny. DAMN!!!!!
having those facts would have made it better when you posted the thread in the first place, otherwise people dont know what your working with to give help.
Hopefully you did not damage input shaft or bearings in the tranny.
don't worry, this kinda stuff happens all the time even with pros

[PearlDrummer00]

Wait a minute i just remember when i rebuilt the motor i put a crank shaft from an 87 prelude int it. So that means the means me buy a [pilot bushing wouldnt do any good being how the input shaft and crank should be the same. I called a tranny shop and they said my problem could throwout bearing, (which is good) pilot bushing (which im thinking isnt gonna work now....) Or my main shaft bearing in the tranny. What are some your guys's opoinons on the main shaft bearing being faulty. Would that be affected by tension on the clutch cable (since when i tighten it the grind goes away..)

[2oodoor]

You always use a pilot bushing with a manual transmission, it goes in in the end of the engine crank and the tip of the input shaft of tranny should fit snug into it. If the P bushing is too small you will not be able to get the transmission to fit right and it is possilbe the clutch assy could be off the splined part of the input shaft enabling you to get the bell housing to go flush with the block.
I thought you had the problem resolved so we're still not up yet right?
When I first read this thread I thought, the clutch disc is in backwards which would have about the same symptom as what I just described above cause the disc is binding at the edge of the splines / and the other thing I thought was the throw out bearing is not sliding freely on the input shaft housing or the T out bearing itself is locked up or on the wrong side of the fork.
Any way you go you need to take it back out and see wtf is going on.

You never ran this transmission before right, so there is a chance the input shaft is bent, broke, bearing bad etc. , I know that aint good news, start eliminating stuff it could be !!!:nervous: :nervous: :nervous:

[PearlDrummer00]

Yea i plan to spend another 4 hours today and take iot out for the third time.....Im gonna check to see if the input shaft is fit sung in the end of the crank. But even if that was the problem i dont see who tension on the clutch cable could cause that grind noise....I wish someone can hear it, its pretty extreme haha. But before i put the tranny in the first time i checked to see if the shaft was bent or damaged and from the naked it didnt look like it. I spun the shaft and it didnt wobble or anything. I guess im gonna have to take it to a tranny shop and have them tear apart if i cant find anything else.

[2oodoor]

yea if you dont see anything really scraped bad in there on the clutch parts (hence the noise) then it may be the trans. With the kind of noise your describing your bound to see some material scraped off somewhere.
Say does your starter sound right?

[PearlDrummer00]

Yea the starter sounds normal. I just called a tranny shop and they charge 129 JUST for an inspection. Do you think if the main bearning is fuct it will be expensive to replace?

[2oodoor]

Yea the starter sounds normal. I just called a tranny shop and they charge 129 JUST for an inspection. Do you think if the main bearning is fuct it will be expensive to replace?
yes if its 129 just to inspect it

You can get a JY tranny for that, with at least a one time good or not guarantee.

reason I asked about the starter was to see if there was a flywheel issue. You may want to check on the board to see if you may have to use prelude flywheel maybe for that tranny.

[MessyHonda]

Yea the starter sounds normal. I just called a tranny shop and they charge 129 JUST for an inspection. Do you think if the main bearning is fuct it will be expensive to replace?



i think ammco gives out free tranny inspections....but i would call them up first

[PearlDrummer00]

Thats Who i called ammco transmissions hahaha But i also used a flywheel from a prelude to.....its pretty much prelude everything on the bottom end. But yea aamco charges 129. But if i can get a j/y tranny that price i might wanna do that. But i think junkyards around here are ridiculas in pricing

[PearlDrummer00]

well i figured it out. I bought new bolts for the pressure plate to flywheel. The bolts were all the way tight but there was still a 16th of an inch gap between the flywheel and pressure plate. I thgouth nuthing of until i took it out yester for the third time and saw scaring on the pressure plate and inside the bellhousing sorta where the start sits. So i bought shorter bolts ta daaa!!!
It works....waht a stupid but simple mistake. So theres another 5 speed conversion under the "how to's" Belt. What was funny though was when i pulled out of the drive way a little down the road my car all of a sudden started sound like a WRX and i had alot of vibration. So im like WTF!?! But i check under the hood and i had a spark plug wire un hooked. HAHAHA

[2oodoor]

great!
that is how it goes sometimes

WRX.. I dont know much about those but it seems like I heard a few at the redlight that sound like they are skipping, or maybe like a 70's VW bus needing a valve job. So they are supposed to sound that way huh...:huh:

[PearlDrummer00]

yea but i love it lol....Whats wierd now is that when ever the motor is disengaged ( clutch in, or in nuetral ) WHILE ROLLING the speed of the motor wants to increase. It increases about 1000 rpms....And it will only come back down to idle when i come to a COMPLETE stop.....I mean complete lol.So Roodoo2 Got any ideas?

[2oodoor]

yea but i love it lol....Whats wierd now is that when ever the motor is disengaged ( clutch in, or in nuetral ) WHILE ROLLING the speed of the motor wants to increase. It increases about 1000 rpms....And it will only come back down to idle when i come to a COMPLETE stop.....I mean complete lol.So Roodoo2 Got any ideas?
Speed Sensor?

[PearlDrummer00]

i thought so but what about it lol. I'd liek to kno what wrong then automatically assume. But your right could be

[2oodoor]

assumption....
say you did not tie wrap your clutch cable to the throttle cable anywhere did you?
try disconnecting your battery cable and reconnecting too.

[PearlDrummer00]

well i guess not hahaha cuzx i have kno idea what your talking about lol. Whats tie wraping a clutch cable to the throttle cable? How do i do it?

[PearlDrummer00]

well i just remembered when my car was an automatic i would put it in nuetral and my car would do the same thing. Rev up a little and only come back down to idle when i come to a complete stop.......so its gotta be csomething that has to do with the motor being disengaged from the tranny. I thought the speed sensor would have somehting to do with it but i was told otherwise and that the speed snsor would have nuthing to do with it.

[2oodoor]

Sometimes people tidy up things by using tie wraps, you know those electical plastic things you loop around wires and cables etc. I was going to say you dont want to tie those cables together anywhere. Both of them move a slight little when used and the throttle cable can be sensative to movement.
So to break it down, if you had the cables tied to each other somewhere every time you pushed in the clutch the throttle cable would move a little bit enough to change rpm.

[PearlDrummer00]

oh no then my cables are acutlley away from eachother. But like i said its gotta have something to do with the the motor disengageing from the tranny. Ive even took apart my throttle body to check things out....BUT....I remember when i was rebuilding my motor....When i the Auto tranny came out we broke the speed sensor...to replace it we took the one out of the manual and put it in...It fit. But then when i put everything back together I think it started acting up so maybe the speed snensor could be bad cuz we put the manual one back on the manual when i sawpped trannys

[LX-incredible]

Did you change out the auto ecu with the manual one? I have heard that the auto one ups the idle according to the speed. The VSS signal is pulled from the speedometer on our cars, so swaping the speed sensor on the tranny should not make a difference, as long as the speedo is working properly.

[2oodoor]

well the ecu system does signal the IAC to maintain air entering the mixture even after you have let off the pedal. this reduces emmisions by letting air mix with unburned fuel still in the CC and exhaust. It also keep the car from backfiring every time you let off the gas.
Since you say it was doing it already before I would 'guess' IAC is the area to look into. The question then is , how well is the system working. Cleaning the IAC not be wasted effort anyway

[PearlDrummer00]

Now what exactly is the IAC

[PearlDrummer00]

It sounds like its something on the intake manifold or something...care to clarify? Im up for anything:)

[PearlDrummer00]

It sounds like its something on the intake manifold or something...care to clarify? Im up for anything:)

[PearlDrummer00]

Well i checked out what i thought was the IAC. And it looked decent. lol i dont kno i cleaned it anyway and i didnt fix my damn rev problem. Im running out of ideas

[2oodoor]

Well i checked out what i thought was the IAC. And it looked decent. lol i dont kno i cleaned it anyway and i didnt fix my damn rev problem. Im running out of ideas
Have you looked at the online factory manual available here? this will help you identify components. There is a fast idle control and then an idle air contol.

[LX-incredible]

This is what the IACV looks like:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3982/iacvtc3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
If it is only increasing idle at speed, the valve is not faulty. The auto ECUs will increase idle according to speed.

[PearlDrummer00]

I dont think it has much to do with the ECU cuz SOMETHING is putting my motor "under load" and only stops when my car stops rolling. Today i was in gear and i noticed that if i let out the gas it doesnt do that usaul lunge foward as it it does in most cars with a lighter fly wheel. therefore the motor IS underload...but jus a little. Enough to keep my car going. So then i put the clutch in and the rpms started to increase?! Its like im constantly giving it gas just a little bit....but im not. And sometimes my car doesnt even act like this. I tried noticing to see if its only when im at Operating temp. or not. It varies between. I could be wrong about the ecu thing but i jus dont understand how the ecu could be telling the car.."ok rev up and only stop when the car stops rolling"

[Pico]

is the ecu showing any codes

[frantik]

every time i try to view page three of this thread it takes me to page 2 :wtf:

edit: now it works :huh:

[PearlDrummer00]

yea same here man! haha but the ecu threw a code just yesterday. But two things. The code was thrown when the car wasnt reving up or anything. So it was normal. And when i got out of the car and checked what code was being thrown. It never came back on.

[PearlDrummer00]

and my ECU has been known to throw codes very late for some reason. ive had problems last for months until a code was thrown. Just like this.

[bullard123]

Sorry I'm late getting in on this thread but I noticed that you said that you put in Hw30 oil?? Whats that hydraulic fluid?? If so than that could be your problem. Our trannnys take 10w30 motor oil.

[PearlDrummer00]

no its just a heavier weight oil. And acutlly the tranny problem is fixed. Whats being discussed now SHOULD be in another thread but i didnt bother starting a new one. But i could still use some help. Read the most recent replys

[LX-incredible]

I dont think it has much to do with the ECU cuz SOMETHING is putting my motor "under load" and only stops when my car stops rolling. Today i was in gear and i noticed that if i let out the gas it doesnt do that usaul lunge foward as it it does in most cars with a lighter fly wheel. therefore the motor IS underload...but jus a little. Enough to keep my car going. So then i put the clutch in and the rpms started to increase?! Its like im constantly giving it gas just a little bit....but im not. And sometimes my car doesnt even act like this. I tried noticing to see if its only when im at Operating temp. or not. It varies between. I could be wrong about the ecu thing but i jus dont understand how the ecu could be telling the car.."ok rev up and only stop when the car stops rolling"
While it was auto, did you ever try shifting it into neutral while rolling to a light? It is quite normal for an auto ecu to up the idle to around 1200 or so while coasting. They were designed for the car to be in gear when in motion, so when you are at speed and in neutral it still ups the idle as if it was in gear. Some kind of fail-safe if the gear selector switch were to malfunction. Now if you were idling at 2 or 3k, I'd say that there was a problem somewhere else.

[PearlDrummer00]

well that makes a little sence. The auto BEFORE did rev up just like it does now when im rolling to a stop. And i cant tell how much my rpms are going up cuz my tach is fuct for some reason lol. But i think i might try putting in a ecu from another 5 speed then. Its all i got right now.

[2oodoor]

you should fix that tach now that you have a 5 speed.
Sometimes fixing something else can lead you to the cause of another problem. Did you ever have the cluster out checking the speedometer?

[PearlDrummer00]

yea acutlley ive taken it the cluster out a few times but this one time i take it stops working. If that cable isnt in all the way could that effect my tach? I didnt really think so. I thought something might just be wrong with my wireing harness or something cuz when i put the 5 speed cluster in i thought the rpms gaugewas gonna start working. But it didnt.

[2oodoor]

I didnt say the speedo had anything to do with it I just asked to remind you ,the cluster was taken out, thus if the problem is new, logic points to look at the most recent thing done in the same area.
I dont get anything out of trying to help you : the things I say are based on the information you give : If I am wrong I am the first to admit it if necessary : Im just trying to assist you remotely which is difficult

[LX-incredible]

yea acutlley ive taken it the cluster out a few times but this one time i take it stops working. If that cable isnt in all the way could that effect my tach? I didnt really think so. I thought something might just be wrong with my wireing harness or something cuz when i put the 5 speed cluster in i thought the rpms gaugewas gonna start working. But it didnt.
The connector on the driver's side of the cluster powers the tach. Make sure that the connection is clean and none of the connecting strips are worn through. If that checks out, check the screws that connect the tach to the printed circuit, there is 3, I believe. The blue wire on the coil that doesn't go to the dizzy goes to your tach, check that.

[LX-incredible]

Hey, when you put the 5-speed cluster in did your fuel gauge work? I have tried 2 different ones and both pin to F, the auto one works fine.

[PearlDrummer00]

yea mine works fine....and thanks for the tach tip.....im gonna check that out soon. Right now im fizing an oil pan gasket leak