Should I replace the oil pan gasket?

[bushbean]

The oil pan is quite greasy, and there is always a few puddles of oil everywhere the car is parked. I think the culprit is the oil pan gasket. How difficult is replacing the oil pan gasket on the 3Geez? I remember on my other car, a BMW, the mechanic had to disconnect the motor mount and lift the engine off of the car before the oil pan can be removed. I hope the 3Geez does not require such drastic measure because I need to replace this gasket myself.

Also, the rings and piston on this engine is probably worn out, and there is probably a lot of blow-by going into the crankcase. If this theory is correct and if I replace the oil pan gasket, will the blow-by ruin the new gasket?

I don't have time nor the money to fix the rings and piston, but I really like to stop the oil leak because it's really making a mess of the driveway.

[2oodoor]

Bushbean don't freak out quite yet on the motor, :)
There is a special shaped o-ring under the oil filter base housing that is bad about leaking. Also there is a small square box shaped oil breather that has about a 1" OD hose that one end goes into a tube on the oil pan, other end of the box houses the pvc tube that the pvc vavle fits in... right about in the same area beside the oil filter. Both of those items are frequentley mistaken for oil pan gasket leaks. I would no doubt replace the o ring and check the connections of the box before pulling the oil pan off. If it is the oil filter mounting base, gasket it will drip right on the exhaust and smell all the time.
As long as your pvc hardware is in good shape you shouldnt be blowing out gaskets from blow by, as well.

I will warn you though these things are tough to get to unless you have the intake manifold off. You can still service them from underneath though.

[bushbean]

Roodoo2, the 1" hose you are talking about has already been replaced recently. That helped a lot, but there is still some oil. I'll definitely replace the o-ring on the oil filter base before tackling the oil pan.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13se00_a05.gif

:gun:

[2oodoor]

Roodoo2, the 1" hose you are talking about has already been replaced recently. That helped a lot, but there is still some oil. I'll definitely replace the o-ring on the oil filter base before tackling the oil pan.
let me add some clarification... the oil filter base is held on by three 10mm small bolts. You remove the oil filter then you can see the base which the oil filter attaches to. It could be called oil filter adapter. O- ring is available aftermarket but only in gasket sets as far as I know, you can get it separately at Honda Dealer. You may check though with your part store they may have it individually.

If it does come around that you have to do the oil pan, it is not nearly as big a deal as most cars.

[mushroom_toy]

^ Except I would add that you need not overtighten the oil pan once the gasket is in. I have put 2 on, they have leaked, a Honda mechanic has put 2 oem ones on my car and they leaked. Took him 3 tries to get it right. I don't know if it's just my car, but the oil pan gasket is a picky picky item

[bushbean]

Now, I'm most definitely sure that the leak is mostly due to oil filter base. Therefore, I bought the O-ring gasket last night. However, removing the base from the bottom seems almost impossible because the alternator is in the way and the engine is tilted forward. I think I should get at it from the top, which means the intake manifold has to come off. How difficult is removing the intake manifold? Is there anything I need to know before doing that? Will I have to buy a new gasket for the manifold?


let me add some clarification... the oil filter base is held on by three 10mm small bolts. You remove the oil filter then you can see the base which the oil filter attaches to. It could be called oil filter adapter. O- ring is available aftermarket but only in gasket sets as far as I know, you can get it separately at Honda Dealer. You may check though with your part store they may have it individually.
If it does come around that you have to do the oil pan, it is not nearly as big a deal as most cars.

[MessyHonda]

i would say do it from the bottom. you dont really want to take off the intake manifold since the carb and all the vac lines are hooked up to it.

il be doing my oil pan within a week.

[cygnus x-1]

Yes, the intake would need a new gasket. That sounds more painful than doing it from the bottom though. Socket extensions and flex joints will probably be helpful.

C|

[bushbean]

The problem with doing it from the bottom is that I cannot see the base plate. I think I'll remove the alternator and use a mirror to see.

[2oodoor]

your better off doing it from the bottom, you have the angle on it. Use 1/4 inch socket set and gearwrenchs.
Most people leave the intake on the head when removing the head, that should tell you how hard it is to get the intake off only.
You could maybe take off the black oil breather box off under there first to make room to access it from the passenger side.

[bushbean]

After a couple of hours, the O-ring behind the oil filter base has been replaced. Unfortunately, I still see oil drips under the oil pan. Since that 1" hose has already been replaced, the only culprit left is the oil pan gasket.

[88Accord-DX]

The only good O ring behind the oil filter base I found to work is a OEM one from the Honda dealer.... A good way to see where oil is leaking, is spray some Brakleen around any suspected points, blow compressed air & dry it off real good. Start the car up, jump under it with a flashlight & check out what is going on.

[russiankid]

The only good O ring behind the oil filter base I found to work is a OEM one from the Honda dealer.... A good way to see where oil is leaking, is spray some Brakleen around any suspected points, blow compressed air & dry it off real good. Start the car up, jump under it with a flashlight & check out what is going on.
Just don't stick your hands near the belts/pulley.

[bushbean]

Yep, I used a "genuine Honda" o-ring because it was only six bux. I don't even think Mc Parts sell these because they have odd shape--like three o-ring fused into one.

By the way, the leak is very slow now. Nevertheless, there is still a small puddle on the garage floor every morning.

[AccordEpicenter]

use only a genuine honda oil pan gasket if you replace it, plus tighten it down from the center of the block out in both directions, not from the outside in etc

[nutmeg_runner]

Any tips on removing the oil pan? I have the header pipe and cross beam off. There is one fastener near the transmission rearward that is hard to reach. Any suggestions on how to reach it? Is there anything else I need to remove to be able to get the oil pan out? Any special sealant for the corners? I have some RTV silicone. Thanks.

[Vanilla Sky]

Biggest thing I have to say is USE A TORQUE WRENCH! If you don't, you'll have to do it over and over again until you're lucky enough to get the torque dead on without the torque wrench.

RTV only in the corners by the crankshaft.


I didn't read the full thread, but you have to remove your transmission crossmember, driver's side axle, and torque converter/flywheel cover.

[russiankid]

Biggest thing I have to say is USE A TORQUE WRENCH! If you don't, you'll have to do it over and over again until you're lucky enough to get the torque dead on without the torque wrench.

RTV only in the corners by the crankshaft.


I didn't read the full thread, but you have to remove your transmission crossmember, driver's side axle, and torque converter/flywheel cover.
You do not have to remove the axle. It just makes positioning the oil pan harder but it can be done with the axle still there.

[88Accord-DX]

If you have any problems reaching bolts, then you probably need a swivel. Rubber oil pan gaskets will leak if you use any kind of RTV silicone on it. The best thing for the home mechanic to hold the gasket in place is to put the oil pan gasket on the oil pan & tie it down with some twisty ties in the middle & on the 4 corners. After you start the bolts, snip them off. Then tighten down from the inside out on both sides. If you don't have a torque wrench, looking from underneath. Once the gasket starts to begin to push past the pan to the edge, your good. Torque wrench is the way to go though.

[Oldblueaccord]

What ddude2uc said. I used sewing thread in the bolts holes myself.

How is the oil plug looking ? That alum. washer on the plug might need changing. I do it everytime or else the plug will leak.

Make sure they used new clamps on the big hose underneath. The original Honda clapmps are a one shot deal usually. I changed mine out on the car and it made a big differance on oil leaks back there.

Also dont rule out the pwr steering lines/clamps under there as well.

wp

[nutmeg_runner]

Thanks for the tips. I was able to reach all the fasteners with a 1/4" drive and bending the manual transmission cover a little. I started a new thread about the next challenge. I did not remove the drive axle, it really was not in the way although I can see how it would make it easier if I had. DDude2UC what type of sealant do you recommend using at the crankshaft corners (assuming the genuine Honda gasket is rubber)?

[Oldblueaccord]

I actually bought the Honda bond thats recommended but some blue permatex or non hardning black would work as well.

Try your best to make sure the oil pan is nice and straight as well. Its only tin and it warps pretty easy. You might need to tap it out on the rails to get it straight.

Clean the oil pump screen and the pan as well inside in case there's any metal junk/acorns floating around in there.

wp

[nutmeg_runner]

Thanks. I just went to Permatex's website. Their product for this application is Ultra rubber gasket sealant and dressing. It clearly states on their website but not on the product itself that RTV Silicone should not be used on rubber gaskets!

[BenAthar]

I am having the same problem with my car leaking oil. From what I read it seems to be a problem with either the oil filter or the pan. So far from what I've notice is that it could be the oil filter like everyone have said. I will try that and maybe the next oil change see about the oil pan having a leak or it could be from somewhere else. I would like to rebuild my motor, but having a hard time in finding a good rebuild kit for it. I would like to rebuild it and bring it up to speed so to speak for it.

[bushbean]

After a couple of hours, the O-ring behind the oil filter base has been replaced. Unfortunately, I still see oil drips under the oil pan. Since that 1" hose has already been replaced, the only culprit left is the oil pan gasket.

Would you guys believe if I tell you the leakage is primarily due to the transmission drain plug? I tightened that plug last week, and I haven't seen oil on the drive way no more. The oil pan is still greasy, but not nearly as bad as before.

[AccordEpicenter]

it could be, and it also could be an axle seal. I had one leak on my car and it was always leaking a little. The difference between the engine oil is the tranny oil is clean/clear, engine oil is darker.

[bushbean]

Well, I'm satisfy now. As long as there is no oil on the driveway and garage floor, that's all I care about. I don't care if the oil pan is greasy, although that would make repairs a dirtier affair. I'm glad I don't have to replace the oil pan gasket because it seems to be a very difficult job to do right.

[MessyHonda]

Well, I'm satisfy now. As long as there is no oil on the driveway and garage floor, that's all I care about. I don't care if the oil pan is greasy, although that would make repairs a dirtier affair. I'm glad I don't have to replace the oil pan gasket because it seems to be a very difficult job to do right.



yeah what i did is clean it with some parts clean all around and verified if the leak was coming from the top of the engine like valve cover or dizzy area. but its my oil pan that leaks

[VTEC_Inside]

If you have any problems reaching bolts, then you probably need a swivel. Rubber oil pan gaskets will leak if you use any kind of RTV silicone on it. The best thing for the home mechanic to hold the gasket in place is to put the oil pan gasket on the oil pan & tie it down with some twisty ties in the middle & on the 4 corners. After you start the bolts, snip them off. Then tighten down from the inside out on both sides. If you don't have a torque wrench, looking from underneath. Once the gasket starts to begin to push past the pan to the edge, your good. Torque wrench is the way to go though.

Bumping a bit of an older thread here but when I did my oil pan I used high temp sealant on both sides of the existing rubber gasket (after cleaning it thoroughly).

I had done the job with a NEW gasket, but split the sob on that attempt.

After cleaning the old gasket I put a very thin (just enough to see it was there in most cases) coat of high-temp sealant on the gasket and stuck it to the block first because it kept getting pulled off the pan as I maneuvered it into place. I also put a thin coat around the pan edge.

I just barely hand tightened all the bolts and have had ZERO leaks from the gasket to this day some year and a bit later.

[2oodoor]

I use permatex product called Hi-tack , if not that then weatherstrip glue to hold the gasket in place when working with it.
Silicone rtv based sealers are used to fill surface irregularities when using flat gaskets or as a stand alone gasket maker. If you try to use it on shaped gaskets it will have a tendancy to push the gasket out of its way when you snug down on it.

[88Accord-DX]

Bumping a bit of an older thread here but when I did my oil pan I used high temp sealant on both sides of the existing rubber gasket (after cleaning it thoroughly).

I had done the job with a NEW gasket, but split the sob on that attempt.

After cleaning the old gasket I put a very thin (just enough to see it was there in most cases) coat of high-temp sealant on the gasket and stuck it to the block first because it kept getting pulled off the pan as I maneuvered it into place. I also put a thin coat around the pan edge.

I just barely hand tightened all the bolts and have had ZERO leaks from the gasket to this day some year and a bit later.

Sounds like you got lucky on that quick fix. You must have split the gasket by over-torquing in the first attempt. Working in the field, I only use silicone on core based gaskets when no other replacement is available at the time. Some of the anaerobic silicone works good in them kind of cases. All in all, RTV isn't a good thing with rubber in my book.

roodoo2- I seen cars come back with leaks from someone using RTV because they used at as a stand alone gasket. Mainly on a transmission. (real slow leak from sitting overnight)