Weekend Tune up recomendations

[Blazin]

Hey all sooo much information thought I'd just ask away.....
Going to be doing my first Honda tune up and was wondering what Product recomendations you all have, I know everone has there own opinion on what works best in there car so I just wanted to get as much feed back as posible (without starting a war).... so thanks in addvance...
Things I'll be doing this weekend....
1)Oil change...Castrol syntec or Qaker state hi millage, its got 265.xxx klm's heard of alot of problems with older cars and syntec.
2)Oil filter....fram i guess
3)Sparky plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor/Coil...any brand ok? or accell for wires? msd for coil? and ngk for plugs?
4)Fuel filter...everyone's talking about 2 filters in carb'd cars, but in FI is there also 2? and fram I guess on these as well?

Anything else that im forgetting let me know please.
Puff Puff Pass........:rockon:

[russiankid]

1. Don't use Quaker, i use Mobile 10w30 5000 and have no problems. Castrol, Royal Purple, brands like those are good.
2. Oil filter, use either Purolator, Mobile, Bosch
3. NGK plugs, cap and rotor do not matter as far as i can tell, wires not sure.
4. If you have a carb, you have two. One near the fuel tank, its like a cylinder shape. The other one is near the carb. Follow the read fuel line, and you will see a cylinder shaped filter.

[Blazin]

I have fuel injection and am not sure if I have 1 or 2, could anyone clarify. I know im lazy but im stuck at work :thumbdn:

[russiankid]

I have fuel injection and am not sure if I have 1 or 2, could anyone clarify. I know im lazy but im stuck at work :thumbdn:
Fuel injected only has one primary filter.

[gp02a0083]

its located on the firewall towards the middle/ passenger side

[88accordSF]

1)Oil change...Castrol syntec or Qaker state hi millage, its got 265.xxx klm's heard of alot of problems with older cars and syntec.
2)Oil filter....fram i guess
3)Sparky plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor/Coil...any brand ok? or accell for wires? msd for coil? and ngk for plugs?
4)Fuel filter...everyone's talking about 2 filters in carb'd cars, but in FI is there also 2? and fram I guess on these as well?
Anything else that im forgetting let me know please.
Puff Puff Pass........:rockon:

Definitely DO NOT USE Quaker State or Pennzoil. Those are literally "fake" oils and do not possess the scientific properties needed to properly lubricate maintain your engine.

I would suggest Mobil 1 Full Synthetic, 10w-30, 10w-40, or 20w-50 (use only 20w-50 if you're in Las Vegas or other extremely hot climate).

A Napa Gold Oil Filter is one of your two best bets for oil filtration. It is the equivalent of an AMSOil Wix Filter (other other best bet!), which has a very stringent micron count (good stuff for your engine) while keeping oil flow capacity high. If at all possible, always use Napa stuff instead of Fram / Autolite. This also goes for the fuel filters, cap, and rotor as well... get Napa stuff such as brass-terminals within the cap and rotor for highest spark output, much better than Niem"crap" silver terminals that are OEM sold at Kragens).

For coil, grab an MSD Blaster 2 or SS.

Castrol is an OK oil, but Mobil 1 is lab-proven to be a very reliable, highly tolerable, and well-lubricating fluid. I use it in my track race cars all the time.

[88accordSF]

Royal Purple... brands like those are good.


I disagree. Royal Purple is specifically engineering for less than 500 miles of use. It's TBN count drops dramatically after that, which is one scientific component to oil that you DON'T want to lose.

Royal Purple is absolutely perfect, and possibly the best, for race track stuff, but that's because Royal Purple company bases the use of its product on the fact racers religiously change their oil before each track day, sometimes even in the middle of a session if the engine overheats from lead-foot-itis.

Its purpose is geared toward very limited used, and in that scenario, functions great. But for a daily driver, its not a great option, whereas Mobil 1 or Valvoline Full Synthetic are great oils.

[Blazin]

Thanks for the fuel filter clarification, and Napa brand.
I probably woulda goten realy pissed off lookin for the second 1 at the back lol but thats what weed's 4

[88accordSF]

the only con about napa is the price tends to float above the generic auto parts store...

[ghettogeddy]

one thing u guys are missing if he goes full synthetic his motor is gona leak like a mofo he has high mileage

[Blazin]

one thing u guys are missing if he goes full synthetic his motor is gona leak like a mofo he has high mileage

Ya thats what I was worried about and have read when searching for info.
so you recomend staying away from synthetic then?

[88accordSF]

one thing u guys are missing if he goes full synthetic his motor is gona leak like a mofo he has high mileage

in my humble opinion, in almost all cases of modern cars, i don't think that would apply.

for the synthetic to make an engine leak, the engine would need to have been designed for a oil of 1960-1970s standards, where the gaskets were engineered to be leak proof under a much larger individual oil unit (on the smallest oil unit measurable... probably an individual molecule). modern engines (last 25 years) have been redesigned on a higher refinement in engine oil properties, resulting in a smaller oil unit. by putting the newly designed synthetic oil in an old car, with the new oil possibly 1/10th of the molecular size of old-school Castrol GTX design, then the motor could possibly leak using 1960's style gaskets and sealants, which were designed only to stop leaks for a grainular-like oil molecule 10 times the size of the new synthetic oil, so it would leak.

however, since our motors use modern graphite gaskets, etc., i believe our engines will not be subseptible to the "synthetic will make it leak", even when it's a high mileage motor. the composition of modern oils, sythetic or dino based, is not drastically different, unless when compared to 40 year old oil. yes, sythetic oil is thinner, but i think that would affect heat dissappation and thermal transfer properties more severely than the sealing ability of the engine

if you find a leak sprouted up at the same time you changed your oil, i'd bet it's statistically more probable that it was a leak waiting to happen rather than due to the synthetic oil itself....

and, in terms of experience... i've owned 21 vehicles. i run sythetic in all of em, except for when breaking in a motor (mainly rings and cam). never had a leak spring from switching to synthetic in any motor yet.

[MessyHonda]

i put on castrol synthetic blend on my car and it leaked from every hole posibile....i say stick to the regular stuff and just make sure to change it out every 3000 miles

[AccordEpicenter]

finally the herb come around

[Blazin]

shweet ride epicenter, dam fine. :bong:

[jschatte]

yeah just stick with what oil you had in before, most likely 5w30 or 10w30
stay away from synthetic becasue i almost garantee your car has never had it before. and as long as the oil has the little certified badge thing on the back, it's good enough.