what kinda springs

[smufguy]

Why kinda lowering (2 - 2.5") lowering springs are good? as in long lasting.

[Mike89Accordcom]

Get Eibach for quality, but if you want real low then get Sprint Performance suspension. They offer 2" and 2.25". I have owned both. I have sprint now, just because I wanted it lower. But Eibach is great, they just don't offer springs real low for our cars.

[markmdz89hatch]

...as a student of the "Jim's school of suspension"...
progress springs, they're rated at a 2"drop, and have one of the best (hardest) spring rates. Only thing is, you need a good set of struts to compliment the springs. That's really the only way that you'll get a real appreciation for what the springs will do for you.

or go B&G's like what i did. Similar if not identical spring rate, and they're spec'd at a 1.6" drop, but by the looks of it...
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5210
...that's WAY more then 1.6", it's more like 2.3~.4". Rides like it's on rails though. Keep in mind that the pics were taken right after installation, the springs still had to settle. Now that they're settled, it's almost a 1/4" lower then the pic.

[2Fast_Fiero]

LOL, Isn't this suposed to be in SUSPENSION?

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Originally posted by MSIAccord_LXi
LOL, Isn't this suposed to be in SUSPENSION?

Yes it is:rant:

[smufguy]

sorry about that jim and all others. i was in a hurry that i forgot to post it in the suspension section. can any moderator please move it? sorry about the trouble. I am such a dumfuck. :(

i dont wanna spend 300 bucks on my springs. i dont have that much money now. I can spend from 150 to 200 bucks for all 4s. that is all 4s. Thanks. I dont want THE BEST ones, I want ones for daily commuting ones, not showr-car style.

[Neuspeed87lx]

if cash is tight ....get sprint...you can get them for like 100 bucks and i have them and like them alot

[89cordlx]

I am getting suspension techniques off nopionline.com

[smufguy]

how much is a decent one? and camber kit, i need a camber kit both front and back right??? thanks. and someone move this whole thread please.

[Jims 86LXI HB]

I can't move this thread, or else I'd move it the moment I saw it and not cry about it.:rolleyes:

You'll want to upgrade your struts no matter what spring (or coilover) you throw on the car. For the drop your looking for you can go sprints (jballin is selling a set in the market place. Find out what it would cost to buy them NEW from nopi including shipping and make him an offer off that price if you want to). Here's a direct link to nopi to price the sprints, they cost $137 at nopi
http://www.nopionline.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=dsppartdetail&vmakeid=140&vmodelid=010&vcatyear=1987&vnopinum=591%2B0808&vTitle=1987%20HONDA%20Accord%20Suspension%20Spring %20-%20Performance/Lowering

You could also go with the progress group 2" drop springs they sell for $129 at www.optauto.com or you can save a few bucks and get the Suspension Techniques speed tech 2" drop spirings from nopi for $97

For struts I recommend Koni's. If money is really tight you can get away with running tokico's in the rear instead of koni's in the rear.
The Koni's will sell for $216 from www.tirerack.com or www.shox.com You can get rear tokico's for around $110
Read this my first post, 2nd paragraph in this thread
http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5700

If you don't feel like installing 2nd gen prelude arms and washers in the front to take care of your front camber you can get the eibach front camber kit's at tirerack for $50each (right+left='s $100) here's the direct link (also show's the Koni's btw)
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Accord+LX+Hatchback&autoYear=1986&brand=all&x=48&y=7

As far as rear camber goes, I have a equal number of people that say you won't need to correct it as I do have people that will say you do need to correct it. If you find that you do indeed need to correct your rear camber you can use the eibach kit's from tirerack for $142 or use the generic kit's that nopi sells for $60

If you have any questions feel free to ask them

[anchovies]

try this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1856951643

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Originally posted by anchovies
try this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1856951643

Damn only one day left for bidding, better jump on that.
sprints for $49, heck yeah! And no one has bid on them either.

[markmdz89hatch]

ok, well, here's my .02 on the rear camber if you drop the car. I, along with Jim, have seen a major discrepancy between wether or not a rear camber kit is neccessary when you drop your car.

So, the bottom line is that the camber/toe is alligned, and the suspension components (control arms, trailing arms, knuckles, etc.) have been made and designed specifically for the ride height that your car comes with from factory. As soon as you deviate, even in the slightest, from stock height, you begin to change how your suspension holds the wheel/tire. There are factors that are, however, taken into consideration when designing the suspension. Factors such as, springs and dampers (shocks) aging thus providing a slightly altered suspension movement compared to new. Also the aging and ever so slight "settling" of other joints/components, and even going so far as to the ever so slight difference in overall tire diameter due to diff. manufacturers and tread wear. Therefore, Honda has so graciously provided the allowance for very slight adjustments to be made to correct/compensate for these factors. Hence the ability to correct for the toe/camber once a vehicle is lowered.

I recently (after slamming the piss out of my car) went to a local TownFairTire, and carried on a conversation with the "suspension guy" at the place for around 15 mins. discussing the needs for corrections. He put my car up on the lift, showed me where all of the adjustments are made on the stock suspension, and also gave me a computer generated print out of the camber/toe readings from my car. The results were kind of upsetting. In fact, although there was no visible toe/camber problems, and although the camber was suprisingly WAY off in front and back, what was most effected was the TOE in/out on the rear.

Holy shit, sorry guys, I just realized that I've typed a small novel here. Sorry about that.

I'm out!

[smufguy]

hey jim. thanks a lot man and mark too, but dude mark, not be an asshole, but i was asking about where to get them and not why. i know why i need the camber, thats why i asked for em. So anways, jim. IF i put 2nd gen lude upper control arms (do i need lower control arms too?) would my camber be right? so i dont need any expensive camber kit for the front? i dont know which year is the 2nd generation prelude is. can u tell me the years for the 2nd gen ludes? there are 4 preludes in the junk yard i go to, and i wanna know if they are the 2nd gen. For the rear, to be safe and not fuck up my car, is there anyway i use something other than the camber kit to get my camber right?

I am gonna install tokiko on all 4s from this dude in the market place, I wish i could be able to buy ground control since they seem to have the ups in everything. well anyways, i heard that sprint springs are fuckers. IS that true or someone is just bs-ing? Thanks guys. and hopefully some moderator would move this and thanks for the input jim and mark, again. :)

[89accord.sei]

I have intrax with 1.75" drop i like em

[markmdz89hatch]

smuf, I hear you... I think that you'll be happy with your choice, but down the road, when you get a few extra $$, i'd spring for the Koni's up front. Don't worry, I don't think you're being an asshole, and I was'nt trying to come across as one either. Sorry if I did. I was just posting a follow up on what Jim was saying about the camber for the rear. Just chalk me in as another one that thinks a camber correction kit is suggested for the rear also.

Not sure about the 2nd gen. lude years, but if you stop at the yard, and look inside the wheel well at the control arm, you should see that it is actaully a 2 piece arm, with either 1 or 2 adjustment bolts on it. If you see that, then you're looking at a 2nd gen lude. Hope that helps...