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dalinxz
05-04-2007, 10:52 AM
Hey do you guys know what page it is on the manual or if anyone has any advice on the difficulty and time it would take to change the inner tie rods? It's not under the Steering or Suspension section only the removal of the rack and pinion is. and nothing comes up on 3geez!

AZmike
05-04-2007, 12:01 PM
1 Mark and remove outer tie rod end
2 Remove steering rack boot
3 bend lock washer off inner tie rod flats
This step may be difficult with the rack installed in the car. The only time I've done with was a rack that had already been removed.

4. using wrench on flats on inner tie rod unscrew from rack

dalinxz
05-04-2007, 06:46 PM
I can do anything on this car but this seems so confusing. How much work would this be tto say compared to a lower ball joint?

Oldblueaccord
05-04-2007, 07:51 PM
It basically unscrews. Problem being may be tight fit getting a wrench in there to unscrew it.

wp

88Accord-DX
05-08-2007, 09:25 PM
A huge crowfoot the right size will work, but you'll need a inner tie rod removal tool. As mentioned, remove the outer tie rod end & boot. It has a nut on one side to tighten down on the inner tie rod end while you turn the other end with a 3/8 ratchet. (it slides over the inner tie rod)
Napa sells the inner tie rod removal tool for around $37.

http://i14.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/9d/eb/c345_1_b.JPG

dalinxz
05-15-2007, 12:29 AM
omg this must have been the hardest thing to do on the accord for the first time, I think next time will be much easier but I hope there isn't a next time!!!

Basically I ended up removing the entire rack in the end, and apparantley my rack is perfect but one of the inner tie rods was being unthreaded so for all of you who think your rack is bad check that first, because the teeth are quite rigid. In any case when I put it back in turns out the lines to and from the speed sensor were corroded, so I took one of the lines from the parts car and used a brake line and bent it in a shape to replace another. Do any of you know where to get a hold of the real hoses. In any case it was a long job but all is well now :-)

Thanks guys for the help the shop manual helped a ton too!!!

jlros75
05-15-2007, 02:57 AM
I have a parts car with those hoses in good condition. :naughty:
If you want it send me a p.m. because its going to the scrapper thursday.

g.frost
07-12-2007, 07:18 PM
I'm hoping someone can help me out here: I just finished replacing front upper control arms and now all my suspension is in good shape except now I noticed a bit of noise and play in the left inner tie rod joint.
It's not real bad but, can't just ignore it either....

Well, no way am I going to remove the rack for this but a search on how to R&R the inner tie rod turns up few and varied range of difficulty and if there is a need for special tools (inner tie rod removal tool, claw foot wrench...)

Also wondering if maybe the joint is ok but has become loosened where it is threaded into the rack?

So, first I'm thinking to just pull back the boot and inspect the joint without removing anything. Rack the steering full over to get access and just pull off the boot to see if the joint is bad or has just come unthreaded, loose.

Does this sound like a reasonable plan? The car has 145K miles and the outer tie rod joint is still good, never been replaced. Seems strange to me that the inner would go bad before even the outer.

Assuming I do need to replace, drivers side only, has anyone done this with rack on the car, with/without special tools?

Thanks for any help on this one.

g.frost
07-13-2007, 08:12 AM
Update: I can feel the condition of the inner tie rod joint right thru the boot and it is fine. It seems to be the rack itself that has the play/noise. Looking at the service manual I'm wondering if the "Rack Guide Adjustment" on page 18-23 might solve the problem. This has never been adjusted on my car. Anyone done this? Is the special lock nut wrench required to do this or can some other 40mm wrench be substituted? Is this the cause of a "clunck" when rocking the steering wheel back and forth?
Thanks for any help on this.......

BITESIZE
07-13-2007, 08:17 AM
That inner tie rod is easy to replace. It's on there tight but easy once it's off.

cygnus x-1
07-13-2007, 10:02 AM
Update: I can feel the condition of the inner tie rod joint right thru the boot and it is fine. It seems to be the rack itself that has the play/noise. Looking at the service manual I'm wondering if the "Rack Guide Adjustment" on page 18-23 might solve the problem. This has never been adjusted on my car. Anyone done this? Is the special lock nut wrench required to do this or can some other 40mm wrench be substituted? Is this the cause of a "clunck" when rocking the steering wheel back and forth?
Thanks for any help on this.......

Possibly. Try adjusting it and see what happens. When I de-powered my rack I completely dis/re-assembled it and didn't use any special tools. Just a standard adjustable wrench. Are you getting sideways play or is it in/out play?

I do get some clunking in the rack though because the gear teeth have some lash in them and there is no hydraulic assist. With assisted steering you wouldn't notice it.

C|

88Accord-DX
07-13-2007, 09:22 PM
The inner tie rod can be remove with a cresent wrench if in the right position, or the right wrench in that matter. I have special tools for such applications without pulling the rack. ( matter of how the job is looked at or taken on) :)

Blkblurr
07-14-2007, 05:11 AM
the rack guide sets the pressure of the pinion gear to the rack. it controls the backlash of these to componets. If you adjust it make sure you don't get it too tight. Just enough to remove the backlash. If it gets too tight it will fail over time and you will then get alot of backlash and eventual rack failure.