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ahmad89
05-05-2007, 09:01 AM
Well yesterday after i came home from school i had to go back to meet my mom to get her to sign an early dismissal form, on the way back i noticed my temp gauge was creeping up to H, i was in the middle lane and there was heavy traffic because the stoplights on this road suck. I was stuck sitting there and it reached H by the time i started going, i was hoping it would go back down from getting airflow but it stayed up. I tried to turn into a parking lot but this retard wouldnt let me in the lane. Took me 5 min. to get in the lane, the gauge was on H for about 8min or so. When i finally got in and stopped at a parking lot, i popped the hood and all i hear is a loud hissing, the hose that leads from the radiator cap to the overflow tank was shaking and i heard the tank bubbling. I let the car cool down for awhile and tried to open the cap, i have a cap that has a lever to release the pressure before opening, when i opened it a little bit coolant, almost scalding hot coolant started spraying out everywhere. I was kicking myself for not waiting longer. I refilled with coolant and water and made it home without the gauge going past halfway.
What would cause my car to overheat like this? Im thinking its from my thermostat im going to turn it to where the pin points up and my thermostat housing is only held by 1 bolt but i havn't had a problem with the really small gap at the top.
CLIFF NOTES: Car overheated on the way home, coolant sprayed everywhere from my stupid mistake, refilled and made it home ok.

MessyHonda
05-05-2007, 09:09 AM
oh man that sucks. sounds like your thermostat is not working. also next time that happen turn on the heater and set it on blast. and just open your windows cuz you are going to cook.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 09:19 AM
My heater doesnt work remember. I will check out my thermostat today but i need coolant i barely have any left in my trunk.

88accordSF
05-05-2007, 10:07 AM
replace the thermostat. very cheap, like under $15

check that the fan is turning on and off... which PROBABLY wouldn't cause the temp to ping the H of the temp gauge. if the fan wasn't working, it would be likely for the temp to stay around 2/3rds up if the fan wasn't working, rather than 1/3 up like normal....

a top temp reading more points toward a faulty thermostat not opening up, and therefore not circulating coolant, causing your overheating condition

if you replace your thermostat, run the car OK for a while, and find oil in your coolant, you may have to replace your head gasket also... those sometimes get wrecked when you drive an engine way too hot (coolant pressure is so great it starts seeping thru the gasket to the oil passages, and also vice versa)

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 10:35 AM
This is a new thermostat, im sure its not working properly cause its not being held in all the way or something cause theres a small gap on the part that connects to the thermostat housing, which is being held by one bolt. Im ordering another one from vanilla. I need to get coolant before i check the thermostat.

Pico
05-05-2007, 10:59 AM
did you bleed the cooling system after you replaced the thermostat?

russiankid
05-05-2007, 11:06 AM
did you bleed the cooling system after you replaced the thermostat?
x2

LX-incredible
05-05-2007, 11:21 AM
So does the car only heat up when stopped? If so it sounds more like a fan not coming on. If not, my money would be on the thermostat. The pin on the thermostat should point up and the spring end should face the engine.
Also possible but not probable is a water pump, I have pulled a few that had the fins corroded off. With all this overheating, check your oil cap after the car sits overnight. Condensation inside the cap could mean a bad head gasket.

ghettogeddy
05-05-2007, 11:24 AM
This is a new thermostat, im sure its not working properly cause its not being held in all the way or something cause theres a small gap on the part that connects to the thermostat housing, which is being held by one bolt. Im ordering another one from vanilla. I need to get coolant before i check the thermostat.
so ur buying a used thermostat and also there souldent be any gap what so ever in between the housings

LX-incredible
05-05-2007, 11:26 AM
I think he is just buying the housing used.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 11:41 AM
im buying the housing like LX said i have a new thermostat and gasket installed i will drain the coolant and check the thermostat can someone show me a pic that has the pin pointing up? i cant picture this and would help a lot to get a much better idea. Also shouldnt the fan be running when your in gear and stopped? When my car overheated and after i refilled it, i put in D4 and pulled the handbrake to stop it and i looked at the fan and it wasnt spinning. I want to change both fans cause only one is working the bigger one. Looks real simple to change them.

LX-incredible
05-05-2007, 12:16 PM
Here you go, sorry for the quality.

Gasket on thermostat:
http://img451.imageshack.us/img451/4002/gasketinstalledtb2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Thermostat installed:
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4954/inhousingkr8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 12:24 PM
oh that pin, thx for the pics man i know what yall mean now. Today when i flush it ima fix that. Really appreciate the help everyone. Ima go drain my radiator now and fix this before it rains or gets dark.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 01:36 PM
i fixed the pin its pointing up now, i drained the radiator and poured water and let it run through. I bought a radiator flush liquid, tomorrow im going to flush it and refill and go from there.

russiankid
05-05-2007, 01:47 PM
Make sure you bleed it a few times.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 02:13 PM
bleed? by unscrewing the cockscrew? im going to run water through it first then put the flush in.

russiankid
05-05-2007, 02:18 PM
bleed? by unscrewing the cockscrew? im going to run water through it first then put the flush in.
There is a nut on the thermostat housing with the hole in the middle of it. You unscrew that and wait until a steady street of coolant comes out, then close it. Let the car run for a good 20 minutes, then do it again. I repeated this about 3-5 times until all the air was out of the system.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 02:30 PM
There is a nut on the thermostat housing with the hole in the middle of it. You unscrew that and wait until a steady street of coolant comes out, then close it. Let the car run for a good 20 minutes, then do it again. I repeated this about 3-5 times until all the air was out of the system.
ok i'll look into it.

88accordSF
05-05-2007, 02:42 PM
its important to bleed the coolant lines after a thermostat install, because if there is an air bubble in your system, the thermostat wont necessarily work, because there may not be any part of the thermo unit contacting the coolant liquid, and therefore the valve to flow coolant won't open. and/or the fan relay won't be switched on automatically because the coolant still technically isn't flowing, according to the basic honda relay "brain"

also sounds like a defunct fan, possibly you have 2 problems together that are cooling related. easiest thing to do is get those 2 problems solved (assuming you have a good head gasket with no leaks) then move onto possible electrical relay diagnosis if the problem persists... electrical is a pain in the ass, even for the most experienced mechanic. when it comes to electrical problems, i just start replacing relays and units with fresh new off the shelf stuff. trying to fix old electrical units can drive any mechanic up the wall.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 03:06 PM
k can yall show me pics cause i dont have the manual right now im going to get it tonight, also pics would help a lot.

Pico
05-05-2007, 04:17 PM
I dont have a picture but your fan relays are in the fuse box located in the engine compartment on the right side fender.
Your fan switch/sensor is located on the bottom of the radiator right next to the lower hose

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 04:18 PM
i'll check out the fuses and see if theres an discoloration.

Oldblueaccord
05-05-2007, 04:44 PM
I think this has been asked but are your fan/fans running? They should once the temp gets about half way or so. But really my car never gets hot enuff for the fans to come on so something is wrong like blown headgasket or bad water pump.

If it does over heat again always refill it with the engine running so the cold and hot water mix and dont shock and blow the head gasket.

wp

88accordSF
05-05-2007, 05:25 PM
I think this has been asked but are your fan/fans running? They should once the temp gets about half way or so. But really my car never gets hot enuff for the fans to come on so something is wrong like blown headgasket or bad water pump.
If it does over heat again always refill it with the engine running so the cold and hot water mix and dont shock and blow the head gasket.
wp
might i suggest checking the coolant cold. make sure its to the brim of the radiator filler neck, to about an 1/8 inch under where the rubber seal of the radiator cap sits when installed
the fans should engage, period. turn on your car, let it sit where its parked, and wait till the fans turn on. if they don't ever turn on after reaching operating temp, there's a fan problem.

russiankid
05-05-2007, 05:29 PM
might i suggest checking the coolant cold. make sure its to the brim of the radiator filler neck, to about an 1/8 inch under where the rubber seal of the radiator cap sits when installed
the fans should engage, period. turn on your car, let it sit where its parked, and wait till the fans turn on. if they don't ever turn on after reaching operating temp, there's a fan problem.
Also when you turn your a/c on, both fans should click on.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 05:53 PM
ok tomorrow after i refill my radiator and bleed it for air, i will check to see if the fans work properly. I was told that my smaller a/c fan was bad. I will check tomorrow i just hope my car doesnt shut off when i turn the a/c on, dam idle boost not working.

russiankid
05-05-2007, 06:11 PM
Have some one hold the rpm's up.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 06:12 PM
Have some one hold the rpm's up.
why

Pico
05-05-2007, 06:13 PM
so the car doesnt die

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 06:19 PM
Oh for when i turn on the a/c lol yea i'll do that.

Oldblueaccord
05-05-2007, 08:23 PM
You can pull the AC 10 A blue fuse under the dash the fans will still come on but the compressor won't. You might have to run it that way until you get it to quit over heating.

Another tip in a pinch if its over heating in traffic is shut it off for about 60 seconds and restart it and come up to 2k rpms for another 30 secs. It gives the water in the block time to heat sink a little and the radiator a little time to disapaite as well. I fight with my Scout over heating at times so I learn all the tricks. You can coast hills too out of gear that helps.

wp

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 09:12 PM
You can pull the AC 10 A blue fuse under the dash the fans will still come on but the compressor won't. You might have to run it that way until you get it to quit over heating.
Another tip in a pinch if its over heating in traffic is shut it off for about 60 seconds and restart it and come up to 2k rpms for another 30 secs. It gives the water in the block time to heat sink a little and the radiator a little time to disapaite as well. I fight with my Scout over heating at times so I learn all the tricks. You can coast hills too out of gear that helps.
wp
I will try out the fuse thing will it turn on both fans or just one?

Oldblueaccord
05-05-2007, 10:20 PM
It will force both on at any temp. as far as I know. Need the AC button on might need the fan switch on the as well I 'm forgetting at this time.

wp

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 10:21 PM
ok i'll check it out tomorrow and see what happens.

88Accord-DX
05-05-2007, 10:27 PM
That thermosensor on the bottom of the radiator is big problem for the fan not kicking on too. There are some relays & fuses to look at it the circuit. Simple test for the fan is to hook up to 12v sorce & see if it runs. I know it's not good to do, but I pull out my thermostat during the summer & put it back in during the winter. It takes my car a little longer to warm up, but I'm cool with it.
Another thing with a 20 year old car, is the radiator will have rust in it & not have the flow rate it should have. With running the engine so hot for so long, you might want to change out the head gasket on it. Aluminum heads will warp easy & make problems worse when that happens. Make sure you radiator cap is good too. If it don't seal good, it will let air in the system & cause overheating. Coolant system pressure tester is a good tool to find out what is going on with overheating problems.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 10:52 PM
That thermosensor on the bottom of the radiator is big problem for the fan not kicking on too. There are some relays & fuses to look at it the circuit. Simple test for the fan is to hook up to 12v sorce & see if it runs. I know it's not good to do, but I pull out my thermostat during the summer & put it back in during the winter. It takes my car a little longer to warm up, but I'm cool with it.
Another thing with a 20 year old car, is the radiator will have rust in it & not have the flow rate it should have. With running the engine so hot for so long, you might want to change out the head gasket on it. Aluminum heads will warp easy & make problems worse when that happens. Make sure you radiator cap is good too. If it don't seal good, it will let air in the system & cause overheating. Coolant system pressure tester is a good tool to find out what is going on with overheating problems.
the radiator is roughly 4 or 5 months old, thermostat is a couple weeks old at most and i bought a new radiator cap a few days after i got the car in december. The fans i want to change but never got around to them.

dlr1989
05-05-2007, 10:59 PM
A couple of additional thoughts. Water pump? Not likely your problem but possible. And a good professional cooling system flush by a good radiator shop. They will be able to do a far better job of flushing the cooling system than we can hope to do in our home garages. I just had mine done a few weeks ago and it even made a difference in how the car idled. One of the better $150 I have spent on my Accord.

ahmad89
05-05-2007, 11:25 PM
my bro told me at honda they have a deal where they flush your radiator, tranny fluid and your brake fluid and refill them i think for $150. The water cant be it i got a new one at honda early this year.

dlr1989
05-05-2007, 11:34 PM
I suppose that it depends on the dealer, but most of them are just going to hook it up to a machine and flush just the radiator. Probably will not get the engine itself very well flushed and the heater core not at all. Thats why I recommend a good radiator shop. They are likely to be more through. On the other hand the $150 radiator, tranny and brake fluid flushs and refills does not sound all that bad, I have spent nearly that much on having domesic pickup (1992 GMC, 2001 Dodge) transmissions flushed.

my bro told me at honda they have a deal where they flush your radiator, tranny fluid and your brake fluid and refill them i think for $150. The water cant be it i got a new one at honda early this year.

ahmad89
05-06-2007, 12:51 AM
i dont wanna go to the dealer to me thats a last resort.

88accordSF
05-06-2007, 08:03 AM
I suppose that it depends on the dealer, but most of them are just going to hook it up to a machine and flush just the radiator. Probably will not get the engine itself very well flushed and the heater core not at all. Thats why I recommend a good radiator shop. They are likely to be more through. On the other hand the $150 radiator, tranny and brake fluid flushs and refills does not sound all that bad, I have spent nearly that much on having domesic pickup (1992 GMC, 2001 Dodge) transmissions flushed.

that's just way too much money! at least, for me it is...

Prestone 100% radiator coolant: $20 for a couple jugs
6 quarts of B&M Full Synthetic Trickshift ATF fluid: $30
Valvoline Synthetic DOT4/5 brake fluid: $15 for a couple bottles

a) the radiator shop or dealer would NOT use synthetic tranny fluid... B&M Synthetic is far superior to any ATF. drain 3 quarts, refill, run car for about 5 minutes while on the jack stands... shifting from R to D4 a few times... then drain again and refill another 3 quarts. that will get your transmission about 75% full of new synthetic ATF

b) grab a friend to help you pump the brakes while you bleed the brake fluid valves on each wheel corner

c) learning how to flush your own fluids: priceless

had to make that lame joke :)

ahmad89
05-06-2007, 12:30 PM
Well another problem came, the hose that leads to the head or the block has a pin size hole in it near the head, coolant sprays out or squirts out, its not that much but if driven more than 5 or 10min it will overheat.

Pico
05-06-2007, 12:31 PM
Well another problem came, the hose that leads to the head or the block has a pin size hole in it near the head, coolant sprays out or squirts out, its not that much but if driven more than 5 or 10min it will overheat. Any idea on what adhesive i could temporarily? I saw at autozone this high temp. black sealant or adhesive.
you're asking for trouble if you're going to try and seal it, just replace the hose it cant be that much for one

russiankid
05-06-2007, 01:05 PM
Well another problem came, the hose that leads to the head or the block has a pin size hole in it near the head, coolant sprays out or squirts out, its not that much but if driven more than 5 or 10min it will overheat.
The hose has a hole?

dlr1989
05-06-2007, 03:57 PM
I agree with your post under normal circumstances. I am way to cheap to pay someone to do something I can do myself. While I completely agree that one needs to learn how to flush the fluids in our vehicles, I've been doing it a long time. Sometimes a situation gets to the point where the experience a professional brings to a problem is worth every penny it costs. For each of us there is a point where the cost of having the job done by a professional costs less than the cost of the frustration from fighting an ongoing problem.

Oh and by the way I agree that your joke was indeed lame, maybe it should be flushed too. I hate to continue this but I can't resist. :) Maybe this entire discussion of flushing should just be flushed.
that's just way too much money! at least, for me it is...

Prestone 100% radiator coolant: $20 for a couple jugs
6 quarts of B&M Full Synthetic Trickshift ATF fluid: $30
Valvoline Synthetic DOT4/5 brake fluid: $15 for a couple bottles

a) the radiator shop or dealer would NOT use synthetic tranny fluid... B&M Synthetic is far superior to any ATF. drain 3 quarts, refill, run car for about 5 minutes while on the jack stands... shifting from R to D4 a few times... then drain again and refill another 3 quarts. that will get your transmission about 75% full of new synthetic ATF

b) grab a friend to help you pump the brakes while you bleed the brake fluid valves on each wheel corner

c) learning how to flush your own fluids: priceless

had to make that lame joke :)

ahmad89
05-06-2007, 05:09 PM
lol dlr, me and my bro sealed it with 2 tapes of wrap n seal and wrapped it twice with duck tape, dont worry its only temporary until we change the hose. Just got back from driving around for 15min or so and it stayed in the middle the whole time. Tomorrow will be my daily driving test. I have like3 or 4 gal of coolant in the trunk incase, 3 gal. of diluted coolant, no water needed, and 2 gal of distilled water. Im prepared for a coolant leak, just hope i dont have to use any.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 06:14 AM
Well so far so god, i made it to school and the temp gauge didnt even think about to going passed halfway. I checked my oil, radiator, and the tape we put on the hole, they all seem fine i topped off the radiator a lil bit. Hopefully changing the hose this weekend or sometime this week.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 11:24 AM
well more problems might be the same hose or something but need your help once again. I came home from school, when i turned off the car and got out i heard a hissing sound and sound of some liquid dripping on ground, i look under and it looked like coolant. popped the hood and looked around saw something dripping from the left side of the airbox or carb. I look and smell, its coolant. Is it the same hose? me and my bro are going to take off the air box after the car cools down and find it.

jlros75
05-07-2007, 01:59 PM
well more problems might be the same hose or something but need your help once again.

I bet its the same hose because you havent fix it, just go to autozone or the dealer and get your radiator hose it will cost around 20 to 30 bucks, because if you keep driving your car like that you'll end up with a blown head gasket or cooked valve seals, oil pan gasket, crank seal, cam seal.........
Ask me how do I know. :sad2:
Also if I were you I'll replace heater hoses at the same time, if not remember that those will start failing soon, again ask me how do I know.
You can buy generic coolant hose at autozone but get the goodyear brand the other hose (no brand name) is garbage.

Let us know how it turns out for you and good luck with the fix.

Oldblueaccord
05-07-2007, 02:34 PM
You can drive it with the cap loose so it doesn't build up pressure if you get stuck. Keep it on there so the fluid wont spill out.

Sounds like the leaks are whats causing you to over heat.


wp

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 02:54 PM
i do have leaks and there are two hoses, i found the second leak under the carb and its the hose that goes from the side of the thermostat, standing from the passenger side its on the left of the thermostat hose, its almost impossible to reach the other end of the hose. Im not going to drive the car anymore and wait to get it fixed.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 04:29 PM
Anyone have an ideas on how i could change the hoses myself? I found out that the hose that i found leaking today is the bypass inlet hose. Like i said in the above post, goes from the side of the thermostat to the back of the carb.

Vanilla Sky
05-07-2007, 05:30 PM
Man, just get under there and swap it out. It's a tight fit, but I've done it before.

88accordSF
05-07-2007, 05:40 PM
Man, just get under there and swap it out. It's a tight fit, but I've done it before.

amen brutha!

seriously. its this easy: whatever's fucked up, replace. every hose you have with a hole, replace.

jack up your front end, put jack stands under the sides.

drain your coolant: 1 bolt off. wait for coolant drain. same 1 bolt back on.

if there are hose clamps on any hose, use either a screwdriver or 6mm socket to loosen the clamps. then twist the hose a bit while you pull it off. right before you put the new hose on, run some water through it to make it easy to slip on. then tighten the clamps back on. fill the radiator.

you're done.

just do it!

jlros75
05-07-2007, 07:22 PM
Looks like everybody is getting tired because your not doing your homework. Ok! here is what you'll need to do.
First: Lift the car, you can put it on ramps or jackstands, because to get to the bypass valve you'll have to do it from under the car.

Second: Drain your coolant or you'll end up having a good antifreeze bath.

If you need to change your oil this will be the best time because without the oil filter you will have more space to work under the car.

Third: have a 10mm socket and some extensions, the bypass valve is exactly in the center under the carburator, for the clamps you need nose plyers or something like that, those hoses are easy because are little tiny ones and the clamps are whimpy.

Like I said before this will be the best time to replace every hose that runs coolant in it' because very soon others will start to fail, because they are old and with the high temperatures in this last days they won't hold for long.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 07:48 PM
yall its not that easy, the jack i have will only lift the car for 2 or 3 notches on the stands and its hard to see under there with all the gunk and grime. I just talked to my bro and he thinks we should at least try to tape it up with wrap and seal then cover it with duck tape until we can get a hose or take it to a shop. I want to personally do myself or with my bro cause i like fixing things and working on cars. The reason why im asking here first is cause the spot where it leaks seems dam near impossible to reach with a plier and take off the hose, its not the clamps that you unscrew with a screwdriver you have to clamp it closed with a plier or something then keep it closed and take off the hose. Im going to buy 2 hoses and try to replace them. Could yall help me with the length or i can just go to autozone and tell them the name of the hose and my car and they would have it?

jlros75
05-07-2007, 07:49 PM
Those little hoses are shaped ones so you have to get them from the dealer (as far as I know)
That same valve fail on my car, I had a big overheating problem driving from Utah to Colorado because a faulty coolant switch sensor on a 100 Farenhait weather, my car overheated so bad I had to stop every 15 minutes and let the car cool for 10 minutes and so on because I was in the middle of nowhere I had to do that for 2 hours.
After that the coolant bypass valve broke in half and the car overheated again, long history short, soon after every other hose in my car started to fail and I end up replacing all the hoses and was done with it and never had any heat related problem but the damaged was already done because my valve seals started leaking, oil pan gasket had to be replaced, valve cover gasket, distribuitor gasket and some other gaskets, at that time I didn't know anything about cars and it cost me a lot so learn from others mistakes and fix it right and avoid costly damages. If you need help send me a p.m. I have the hoses and the valve in my hand if you're interested.

jlros75
05-07-2007, 08:11 PM
Dont drive the car fix it right, those band aids you wanna put will fail the same day and you'll make your problem worse.
Your best bet will be to buy a ramp set, like 28 bucks at pepboys, autozone, advance auto or wherever is closer to you, with those you don't have to worry about the car crushing you while under it.
You have to stick your hand deep into the car to get to those clamps, long nose plyer will do the trick.
It will help to remove the carburator lid to help you see better, thats how I did it, only need 10 mm socket.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 08:24 PM
Update: just searched the manual with the help of vanilla sky, i found that theres a way to reach the end of the hose that i cant reach by removing the air box and this bracket that holds something down but once i take off the air box i could get to it a lot better. Anyone know if this is actually true or do i have to remove more things? Page in manual is 11-20 page 143/835, heres a pic from the manual for what im talking about.
http://i19.tinypic.com/67ssvba.jpg
The black arrow is the bracket im talking about removing, when i looked and saw the coolant squirting from the hose, i saw the hose under the bracket. I am going to change the hoses the patches are just temporary, i do not have the time at the moment and the car will not be driven because of the leak. I will change them this weekend. I will update and let yall know how it goes. Til then i will keep looking at the hoses and find better ways to get to them.

jlros75
05-07-2007, 08:32 PM
Yes you have to remove those 2 10mm nuts, remove the carburator cover and the carburator screen (2 more 10mm nuts) you'll have to remove a couple vacum hoses just remember where those go to. After 5 minutes you will have that cover off and you will be able to get to those hoses easier.

ahmad89
05-07-2007, 08:37 PM
Yes you have to remove those 2 10mm nuts, remove the carburator cover and the carburator screen (2 more 10mm nuts) you'll have to remove a couple vacum hoses just remember where those go to. After 5 minutes you will have that cover off and you will be able to get to those hoses easier.
Good earlier i took off the screen and lifted up the airbox with the hoses still on but it was enough to look around. I will get into it this weekend and tomorrow i will post pics on here to show yall where the hoses are. Thank you all for your help i will post the pics tomorrow around 5 or 6ish.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 06:14 AM
I im inclass and im excited and want to start getting into it right now. I know i ask a lot of questions and at times i ask easy and dumb questions before i realize i know the answer or i found it. I wanna apologize for that and sometimes i just get so frustrated i just dont wanna do anything and ask yall which is stupid on my part, i'll try my best to not do that again. Thank you.

LX-incredible
05-08-2007, 08:40 AM
I im inclass and im excited and want to start getting into it right now. I know i ask a lot of questions and at times i ask easy and dumb questions before i realize i know the answer or i found it. I wanna apologize for that and sometimes i just get so frustrated i just dont wanna do anything and ask yall which is stupid on my part, i'll try my best to not do that again. Thank you.
If you don't want to do anything stupid, replace all those hoses. I replaced everything but one to the heater core because it looked fine. A week and a half later it developed a half inch hole that emptied 80% of the coolant on the parking lot. Temporary fixes are ok while you are waiting for parts to come in. Replacing one or two bad hoses when the others are subject to the same conditions and made with the same material does not make sense. Your cooling system is not the place to skimp on. With all the coolant that you seem to be going through, you will probably save with new hoses.

Oldblueaccord
05-08-2007, 08:52 AM
Well you'll get it you just have to jump into it sometimes. I'm pretty sure in a pinch you can just bypass thoose hoses. I think that plate just heats the carb up during warm up. You can use a bolt in the hoes and some clamps if you cant get at the hoses in the mean time.

I was young once no money and one car to get around in and hour to fix something before work etc. My mommie and daddy didn't buy me a new car when I turned 16 and I sure didnt no much about cars when I was young. Questions are good you'll get it figured it out.


wp

LX-incredible
05-08-2007, 09:18 AM
Here are some part numbers for the hoses, I think that is all of them.

Heater Hoses:
79720-SE0-000 HOSE, WATER INLET $25.71
79725-SE0-000 HOSE, WATER OUTLET $25.71
In my LXi I was able to use the 5/8 bulk hose that they sell at the hardware store, it ran me like $6. Yours may be different.

79721-SE0-000 HOSE, WATER VALVE $6.42

Radiator Hoses
19502-PH1-020 HOSE, WATER (LOWER) $13.50
19501-PH1-J00 HOSE, WATER (UPPER) $18.04

Other hoses
19508-PH1-000 HOSE, BYPASS OUTLET $4.44
19509-PH2-010 HOSE B $6.38 $6.38
19507-PH2-000 HOSE A $5.07 $5.07
19504-PH1-000 HOSE, BYPASS INLET $9.49

You should use new screw-type clamps on all hoses. Hoses that don't take any radical bends can be replaced with the cheaper bulk hose, of the correct size.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 10:43 AM
Im going to change the hoses this weekend and im not driving the car at all, the patches are only for temporary fixes period. Throughout this week i will be in the process of removing the air box, the bracket, and marking the vacuum lines. I will post pics today like i said around 5 or 6.

mike10562004
05-08-2007, 01:11 PM
ok same shit happened to me heres what you do and IT ONLY COSTED ME $4.95

1. check the top radiator hose ifs its very hot to the tuch then you know you have circulation which means your thermostat is fine next drain all the coolent from your engine

2.take a water hose and shove it in the bottom hose and spray for abotu 5mins this is called back flushing your system this cleans out all the shit in your heater core which is probly stoped up

3. go to the nearest autoparts store and but an item called k&n engine block sealer $4.95 WELL WOTH IT X10 saved my butt next rinse out ur radiator with clean watter and mix the sealer with 3cups of HOT watter from your sink and mix it up then connect all the hoses and pour it in the radiator (now this stuff looks like pure rust but ir the matalic substance in it that seals it now take the garden hose(water hose and finish fealing ur radiator up then with the cap off of your radiator crank the car and let it idle for an min and finish feeling the radiator up with cold watter then put the radiator cap back on let it idle for about 10-20mins then go out and rev it up and take it for a short spin continute this untill you have anywhere in the range of 250-500miles on the odomoter. once you have reatched this let the engine cool over night and drain all the solution from your radiator and pour clean water in it with the engine off to rinse it out. then put the drain plug back in and Pour clean coolent into it and valah problem solved!

worked like a charm
saved my butt and engine my heater core was broken and also i was leaking coolent into my engine block producing an sh@# load of white smoke! thanks and if u have any ? pm me
-mike

russiankid
05-08-2007, 01:13 PM
Im going to change the hoses this weekend and im not driving the car at all, the patches are only for temporary fixes period. Throughout this week i will be in the process of removing the air box, the bracket, and marking the vacuum lines. I will post pics today like i said around 5 or 6.
What bracket?

LX-incredible
05-08-2007, 01:20 PM
ok same shit happened to me heres what you do and IT ONLY COSTED ME $4.95
1. check the top radiator hose ifs its very hot to the tuch then you know you have circulation which means your thermostat is fine next drain all the coolent from your engine
2.take a water hose and shove it in the bottom hose and spray for abotu 5mins this is called back flushing your system this cleans out all the shit in your heater core which is probly stoped up
3. go to the nearest autoparts store and but an item called k&n engine block sealer $4.95 WELL WOTH IT X10 saved my butt next rinse out ur radiator with clean watter and mix the sealer with 3cups of HOT watter from your sink and mix it up then connect all the hoses and pour it in the radiator (now this stuff looks like pure rust but ir the matalic substance in it that seals it now take the garden hose(water hose and finish fealing ur radiator up then with the cap off of your radiator crank the car and let it idle for an min and finish feeling the radiator up with cold watter then put the radiator cap back on let it idle for about 10-20mins then go out and rev it up and take it for a short spin continute this untill you have anywhere in the range of 250-500miles on the odomoter. once you have reatched this let the engine cool over night and drain all the solution from your radiator and pour clean water in it with the engine off to rinse it out. then put the drain plug back in and Pour clean coolent into it and valah problem solved!
worked like a charm
saved my butt and engine my heater core was broken and also i was leaking coolent into my engine block producing an sh@# load of white smoke! thanks and if u have any ? pm me
-mike
That is a "last chance" fix. It will not repair leaking hoses.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 03:41 PM
That is a "last chance" fix. It will not repair leaking hoses.
like he said i have leaking hose that sounds more like a head gasket repair thing. I need to fix my heater core cause my heat is not working at all, where are the pipes or hoses for the heater? and how can i check to see if they are clogged or to see if my heater core is working? When i set it to heat and slide it to the red, theres no heat what so ever it only lets air from outside in but when its cold outside it blows cold air, like its on vent.

russiankid
05-08-2007, 03:42 PM
like he said i have leaking hose that sounds more like a head gasket repair thing. I need to fix my heater core cause my heat is not working at all, where are the pipes or hoses for the heater? and how can i check to see if they are clogged or to see if my heater core is working? When i set it to heat and slide it to the red, theres no heat what so ever it only lets air from outside in but when its cold outside it blows cold air, like its on vent.
There is a valve near the firewall, check if its working. It has a cable attached to it.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 03:43 PM
This is the only pic i could get, the other hose that has the leak will have to wait until i remove the air box. This is the hose i patched with the wrap and seal then duck tape.
http://i19.tinypic.com/6chugrt.jpg Once again i will replace the hose and the car is in a non running state right now.

jlros75
05-08-2007, 04:36 PM
The name for that hose is: bypass outlet hose, its cheap from the dealer like $6, go to HondaAutomotiveParts.com and look under carb water pump, your leak is hose # 14; you may as well replace hose 13 and 15. you'll have to remove all that vacumm crap to get there.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 04:44 PM
The name for that hose is: bypass outlet hose, its cheap from the dealer like $6, go to HondaAutomotiveParts.com and look under carb water pump, your leak is hose # 14; you may as well replace hose 13 and 15. you'll have to remove all that vacumm crap to get there.
well i dont wanna order the parts online cause i need them this weekend to replace them. Then i just need the bypass inlet and outlet hoses, can i only get them at honda or can i get them at autozone?

jlros75
05-08-2007, 05:02 PM
I dont think autozone carries those hoses, it will be better to get them from the dealer, like 25 for all 3.

russiankid
05-08-2007, 05:12 PM
well i dont wanna order the parts online cause i need them this weekend to replace them. Then i just need the bypass inlet and outlet hoses, can i only get them at honda or can i get them at autozone?
You can get over night.

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 05:33 PM
You can get over night.
It cost $80 for overnight, $50 for 2 days, i think driving like 5 miles to the honda dealer and buying the parts for about 20 bucks would be cheaper.

russiankid
05-08-2007, 05:35 PM
It cost $80 for overnight, $50 for 2 days, i think driving like 5 miles to the honda dealer and buying the parts for about 20 bucks would be cheaper.
Except most likely they will not have the part instock:violin:

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 05:47 PM
need your help guys which one should i get or is the right one. http://www.autozone.com/N,16300590//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

russiankid
05-08-2007, 05:49 PM
Which hoses are you going to replace?

ahmad89
05-08-2007, 05:51 PM
Which hoses are you going to replace?
The bypass inlet and outlet.

LX-incredible
05-08-2007, 09:34 PM
I need to fix my heater core cause my heat is not working at all, where are the pipes or hoses for the heater? and how can i check to see if they are clogged or to see if my heater core is working? When i set it to heat and slide it to the red, theres no heat what so ever it only lets air from outside in but when its cold outside it blows cold air, like its on vent. The heater valve is more or less in the center of the firewall, in the engine bay. The hoses for it run from the water pipes under the thermostat.

When my buddy had the car, the selector lever would not move to hot. So, of course, we forced it over and heard something break. After I got the car, I decided to fix it. I bought a new water valve and installed it, still no heat. The valve's cable, under the radio, had come off of it's peg. I put it back on and tried to move the selector, it would only move 1/4 of the way over to hot. The arm on the water valve was hitting the hose clamp. After rotating the clamp the heat worked.

What I am saying is that a hose clamp positioned incorrectly after an repair caused the valve not to open. My forcing the selector caused the other end to come off it's peg, which allowed movement, making me think that the valve was clogged. Check that the selector is moving the arm on the valve. If not, check what I mentioned, it takes a lot to clog the valve and it's hoses.

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 06:12 AM
The heater valve is more or less in the center of the firewall, in the engine bay. The hoses for it run from the water pipes under the thermostat.
When my buddy had the car, the selector lever would not move to hot. So, of course, we forced it over and heard something break. After I got the car, I decided to fix it. I bought a new water valve and installed it, still no heat. The valve's cable, under the radio, had come off of it's peg. I put it back on and tried to move the selector, it would only move 1/4 of the way over to hot. The arm on the water valve was hitting the hose clamp. After rotating the clamp the heat worked.
What I am saying is that a hose clamp positioned incorrectly after an repair caused the valve not to open. My forcing the selector caused the other end to come off it's peg, which allowed movement, making me think that the valve was clogged. Check that the selector is moving the arm on the valve. If not, check what I mentioned, it takes a lot to clog the valve and it's hoses.
Where is this clamp you speak of? lol or what section in the manual is it?

LX-incredible
05-09-2007, 08:31 AM
On the heater valve.

LX-incredible
05-09-2007, 09:05 AM
I have circled the part of the valve where the problem hose clamp is. You can't see the hose clamp at that angle but it is just like the other one. Notice the clamp on the other side. If the one that I am speaking of were to be turned that way, the valve's lever would come in contact with it.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2207/68453145kw0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Make sure that all of the cable ends are on their pegs and the cable sheaths in their clamps.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6092/20925121hn7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Or if you have lever controls:
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3303/89280699dd2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 12:08 PM
I have circled the part of the valve where the problem hose clamp is. You can't see the hose clamp at that angle but it is just like the other one. Notice the clamp on the other side. If the one that I am speaking of were to be turned that way, the valve's lever would come in contact with it.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/2207/68453145kw0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Make sure that all of the cable ends are on their pegs and the cable sheaths in their clamps.
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/6092/20925121hn7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Or if you have lever controls:
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3303/89280699dd2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Thx a lot man i'll look into it when i remove all the stuff.

LX-incredible
05-09-2007, 12:37 PM
Thx a lot man i'll look into it when i remove all the stuff.
You shouldn't need to remove anything in the interior, although removing the glove box will make it a little easier. It's quite uncomfortable, but you should be able to see everything. Like I said, it is more or less under the radio and to the right.

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 01:19 PM
You shouldn't need to remove anything in the interior, although removing the glove box will make it a little easier. It's quite uncomfortable, but you should be able to see everything. Like I said, it is more or less under the radio and to the right.
Oh that cable i know what your talking about mine is still in that pinhole thing, i'll look again and check for anything loose.

Oldblueaccord
05-09-2007, 01:34 PM
Good pictures.

Thats the hose that goto the heater core inside your car. The hoses go thru your firewall so you will be able to see it under the hood pretty easy.


wp

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 01:56 PM
Good pictures.
Thats the hose that goto the heater core inside your car. The hoses go thru your firewall so you will be able to see it under the hood pretty easy.
wp
K so i check the hose for cracks or what?

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 03:10 PM
UPDATE!!!
Took off the air box and 2 bolts that holds the metal vacuum tubing but it still wont move far enough to let me reach the hose and take it off.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4626.jpg
In this pic (Shown below) the hose is right under that metal part without a bolt in it.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4627.jpg
In this pic (Show below) is the hose that has the leak, its the end of the hose that is fine the other end that has the hole is in the pic above, to make sure yall know which one its the one that you clearly see in the middle of the pic almost thats connected to the side of the thermostat housing.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4628.jpg

P.S. oldblueaccord want me to take a pic of the firewall cause i couldnt figure out which hose leads to the heater core, theres like 3 hoses.

Oldblueaccord
05-09-2007, 05:54 PM
its the ones under neath the motor mount (dog bone) in your first picture. The slider(hot/ cold) that was mention with the cable you can see on one of the hoses. The other is just the return hose. The slider lets the water run to the heater core .

Another question does you dash lights for your heat and AC come on at all any position?

If they dont that 10 amp fuse may be blown under the dash. It wont let the vents come on so you will have alotta blowing noise but air won't come out anywhere but the defroster.


wp

ahmad89
05-09-2007, 08:02 PM
air blows in any position just when im trying to get hot or warm air it wont blow any hot air just the same temp air from outside. i'll take pics tomorrow of the firewall so you can pinpoint it for me and what fuse? can you tell me the name?

LX-incredible
05-10-2007, 01:05 PM
UPDATE!!!
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4626.jpg
It's not a fuse. That cable in the center, to the right of the of the motor mount, under that unplugged hose, that comes out of the firewall, goes down to the water valve. Follow the cable down and make sure that the selector, inside the car, moves the lever on the valve.

ahmad89
05-10-2007, 05:37 PM
It's not a fuse. That cable in the center, to the right of the of the motor mount, under that unplugged hose, that comes out of the firewall, goes down to the water valve. Follow the cable down and make sure that the selector, inside the car, moves the lever on the valve.
Could you put a big red or black arrow on the pic just to make sure i understand correctly.

russiankid
05-10-2007, 05:41 PM
Could you put a big red or black arrow on the pic just to make sure i understand correctly.
There is a cable coming out of the firewall near the hoses that go into the firewall. Very hard to miss.

ahmad89
05-10-2007, 06:46 PM
There is a cable coming out of the firewall near the hoses that go into the firewall. Very hard to miss.
I'll look when im marking the vacuum lines tomorrow, if it doesnt rain again.

LX-incredible
05-10-2007, 07:02 PM
This is the firewall:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6238/49430589sn9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the center:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/3098/25965938fq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the motor mount:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5906/32046239kf4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the heater valve cable:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2420/17710638iq3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Any questions?

ahmad89
05-10-2007, 07:55 PM
This is the firewall:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6238/49430589sn9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the center:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/3098/25965938fq1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the motor mount:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5906/32046239kf4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This is the heater valve cable:
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2420/17710638iq3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Any questions?
lol i just needed the last pic, i knew the rest im not that stupid with cars.

ahmad89
05-11-2007, 06:39 AM
Well today hopefuly it doesnt rain again, ima get to work on the car as soon as i get home from the vet.

ahmad89
05-11-2007, 04:45 PM
update, I just need the hose so i can replace it, i followed that cable but it didnt have a lever thing like in the manual pic it was like clamped onto the hose but everything was tight and secure.

ahmad89
05-11-2007, 10:30 PM
I know where it is, it was right in front of me lol.

Oldblueaccord
05-12-2007, 12:55 PM
Just make sure the valve moves back and forth. Thats what turns the water on/off for heat.

As far as the leak I think you could use generic hose from anyparts store thats the right size (3/8 maybe) it just wont be formed like the factory. That plate looks like it just warmd the carb some is all. Not needed in warmer climates. Cold carb more power!


wp

ahmad89
05-12-2007, 01:59 PM
Just make sure the valve moves back and forth. Thats what turns the water on/off for heat.
As far as the leak I think you could use generic hose from anyparts store thats the right size (3/8 maybe) it just wont be formed like the factory. That plate looks like it just warmd the carb some is all. Not needed in warmer climates. Cold carb more power!
wp
Im going to take a pic of where the cable leads to tomorrow since my bro has the camera with him and wont be back until 11:30.

ahmad89
05-12-2007, 06:41 PM
Update: i got both hoses out now just to get replacement hoses.

ahmad89
05-12-2007, 09:36 PM
I need your help, i looked up on autozone and im not sure if these hoses are the right ones, can yall help me? thanks. In case link doesnt work properly 1989 honda accord DX bypass inlet and outlet hose.
http://www.autozone.com/N,16300590/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 02:28 PM
People need your help!!! smoke is coming from under and going up and around the distributor, its not thick smoke its really thin and looks like something fried or isnt connected fully.What could it be? Also i had my car running for at least 5 min. before i drove it around for another 5min. The temp gauge didnt move passed C. Could my temp sensor be fried or something?

russiankid
05-13-2007, 02:36 PM
Be careful, and go look under. Check for leaks. Bleed the system then see if the temp gauge works.

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 03:37 PM
Be careful, and go look under. Check for leaks. Bleed the system then see if the temp gauge works.
I was going to do that but it started raining, when it was smoking i was looking under and everywhere the smoke was coming from but didnt see any leaks. Should i open the dizzy cap and see if anything is black or looks out of the ordinary?

russiankid
05-13-2007, 03:50 PM
I was going to do that but it started raining, when it was smoking i was looking under and everywhere the smoke was coming from but didnt see any leaks. Should i open the dizzy cap and see if anything is black or looks out of the ordinary?
I doubt something happened there because it happened after you messed with the hoses.

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 04:45 PM
Heres the first vid its hard to see the smoke cause of the camera but its coming from around the thermostat housing and in between the dizzy and housing.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/th_PICT4654.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/?action=view&current=PICT4654.flv)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/th_PICT4655.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/?action=view&current=PICT4655.flv)
Heres to oldblueaccord i had my mom slide the lever to red and heres what happened.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/th_PICT4653.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/?action=view&current=PICT4653.flv)

Vanilla Sky
05-13-2007, 04:51 PM
What does the oil smell like? Is it sweet, or does it smell like oil? My guess is a weeping thermostat gasket.

Pico
05-13-2007, 04:51 PM
are you sure thats its not just leftover coolant burning off the engine?
Did you make sure that all the hose clamps are tight or did you reuse the original spring clamps if you did replace them with screw style clamps, one of the hose may not me tightened enough.
On your heater lever it looks like the cable isnt attached to the lever. I may just may not be able to see it but thats what it looks like in the video

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 05:01 PM
It doesnt smell like oil it smells kinda like coolant, the lever is attached its hard to see in the vid, and i used new screw belt clamps and i tightend them as much as i could but my hands were in an awkward position. Later i'll re-tighten them and see if they are tight. I wanna open the thermostat housing and see whats goin on but i dont wanna spill all that coolant in the engine again. I bled the system for air and the temp gauge still wont move and the car was running for 10min at least. How long should spilled coolant smoke like that? Russiankid told me my timing is off cause the is idling rough, ima look into doing that asap but my dad is overseas now and were trying to not spend that much money so when i get a job it would be easier to fix this car until i get a newer one.

Pico
05-13-2007, 05:04 PM
silly question. did you maybe disconnect the wire going to the temp. sender, this could be why your gauge isnt moving.

russiankid
05-13-2007, 05:06 PM
Make sure you don't over tighten the clamps, then the hose can split from the pressure.

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 05:06 PM
silly question. did you maybe disconnect the wire going to the temp. sender, this could be why your gauge isnt moving.
where is it located?The manual sucks it seems like its by the firewall but its hard to tell.

Pico
05-13-2007, 05:24 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/picopop/Misc/temp.jpg

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 06:02 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v337/picopop/Misc/temp.jpg
yea thats what i was talking about im other engine where is that at?

Pico
05-13-2007, 06:04 PM
I know on my 89 its on the part that the thermostat cover bolts on to, I dont know if it's different on a carbed engine but It should be in the samespot

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 06:14 PM
I know on my 89 its on the part that the thermostat cover bolts on to, I dont know if it's different on a carbed engine but It should be in the samespot
Ima go and check to see if theres something in that spot.

russiankid
05-13-2007, 06:19 PM
I know on my 89 its on the part that the thermostat cover bolts on to, I dont know if it's different on a carbed engine but It should be in the samespot
I think the carb'd one is on the intake. Or at least under it.

ahmad89
05-13-2007, 06:44 PM
I think the carb'd one is on the intake. Or at least under it.
Yea its not on the thermostat housing its behind the carb, is it like a clip with two wires or something you unscrew?

ahmad89
05-14-2007, 06:13 AM
I drove the car to school today and it seemed fine but the temp gauge didnt move at all its still below C and i feel that my timing is really off cause when im in gear and stopped, its a rough idle and when i look at the rpms the needle is moving up and down a lil bit. To make sure this is caused by my timing right? Also how do you unplug the temp gauge sending unit? those clips are hard to take off.

LX-incredible
05-14-2007, 10:41 AM
Yea its not on the thermostat housing its behind the carb, is it like a clip with two wires or something you unscrew?
Single wire, no clip, rubber boot.

jlros75
05-15-2007, 03:07 AM
If your rpms are fluctuating, thats a vacuum problem (not timing) check all your vacuum hoses and replace any cracked or worn hose, one by one or you'll be sorry. The temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold (passenger side) there is a coolant hose for the manifold and right next to it on the inside is the sender unit (little tiny one) at the back of the carburator and under it. Its the second pic on the manual from the earlier post.

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 03:33 AM
If your rpms are fluctuating, thats a vacuum problem (not timing) check all your vacuum hoses and replace any cracked or worn hose, one by one or you'll be sorry. The temperature sending unit is located on the intake manifold (passenger side) there is a coolant hose for the manifold and right next to it on the inside is the sender unit (little tiny one) at the back of the carburator and under it. Its the second pic on the manual from the earlier post.
Thx today after school ima take off the air box and look for any messed up vacuum lines and then find the sending unit. will update as usual.

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 06:19 AM
This morning after i started my car it was reving high at 2k rpm cause the engine was cold so i blipped the gas to lower the rpms and it kept going down until it shut off. I started it and it stayed on, when i let it warm up a bit for awhile, i shifted in gear and it was reving at like 2-300 rpms and i had to press the gas pedal and it kept it alive, so when i was reversed out of my driveway, i kinda floored it just revved it at like 4k rpm or so and that usualy gets the car running normal and it worked. I heard this weird sound though it kinda sounds like air rushing by a partly opened plastic tube or something, it only happens when im going. Im not going to drive the car anymore until i get this fixed, im sure its because of those two vacuum lines or whatever breaking apart. Im going to duck tape them together again that should hold really well until i replace them. Today after school when the car cools down ima remove the airbox and get to work on that and look for the temp sending unit.
Sorry for a long paragraph heres cliff notes.
CLIFFS:
Car shut off after started, restarted idled fine.
When shifted to reverse car reving at 200-300rpms had to press the gas kinda hard to keep it alive.
Weird air flow sound like wind hitting a partly opened plastic tube.
After school removing airbox, fixing the problems and wont drive the car until then.

zwolf
05-15-2007, 07:48 AM
Idle whacked: One of the vacuum hoses came loose. You may have left one unattached when you put your air breather box back on. one of the vacuum fittings down by the bypass valve could be cracked where it connects to the metal pipe, on the underside where you cannot see it unless you slide it off and check each one.. Not timing. That air noise it what you hear if you pull off vacuum hoses to the B switch solenoid or to the leakage solenoid circuit and you run the carb in off-idle mode (just above idle RPM and slowly accelerating) That wicked-assed hose diagram for the fuel system in chapter 12 of the PDF file you got your carb diagram out of....that chapter will show all the vacuum lines.

You got no temp gage reading because the signal is not coming from the temperature sender. Its a little sensor mounted in the housing where the water outlet from the thermostat goes. It just has one flat spade terminal connector on it, with a round black rubber boot over it. A broken wire will do it. An air-bound cooling system will do it. No voltage to the temp sesor circuit will do it. You should see 0 to 5.5 vdc on that connector. The sensor is just a RTD resistor element, reads about 140 ohms when hot, and the wire going back to the instrument cluster is blue/yellow at the white plug to the instrument cluster. You can jumper the wire with another wire if you think the wire is bad.

You should get the cooling system professionally backflushed and de-scaled by a good radiator shop. They will completely remove scale deposits, blockage in the heater core, and blockage in the radiator. They will fix all the little leaks, they will use the right hose clamps, they will find the pin-hole leaks that come out as steam, the ones you cannot find. Totally worth it. Not a joke at all. You will be shocked at how smooth the engine gets after you de-scale it and the head starts running cool again.

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 11:20 AM
The air noise i was talking about was my window being crooked and there was a small gap at the top left of the window where air came in or out whatever and made that sound. Im going to take off the air box and check for cracks, unattached hoses, and try to find the temp gauge sender. Zwolf my temp gauge sender is on the back of the manifold i dont have an A20 engine, im other according to the manual. Im waiting for the car to cool down which will take about 2 or 3 hours cause its about 90 degrees or higher here in houston.

Vanilla Sky
05-15-2007, 01:59 PM
You have an A20, the manual was referring to the A20A3 specifically. The repair manual covers A1, A2, and A3 engines. The first two are carbed. You have the A20A1.

When I get home, I'll take a picture of the sender.

Do you still need the dizzy and thermostat housing?

russiankid
05-15-2007, 02:35 PM
All 3gen Accords had/have an A20. Just the fuel injected is marked as A20A3 or A4 and carbed is A20A1 or A2. Some models in Europe had an A18. It is like the A20 but smaller.

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 02:41 PM
You have an A20, the manual was referring to the A20A3 specifically. The repair manual covers A1, A2, and A3 engines. The first two are carbed. You have the A20A1.

When I get home, I'll take a picture of the sender.

Do you still need the dizzy and thermostat housing?
stupid me lol, yea i still need those but sorry im taking so long to get the cash just right now since my dad is overseas were kinda having trouble getting some things sorted out but can you just like store them somewhere until i can pay for them man? thanks

UPDATE:
I found where the unit was, i found that i broke this cap thing and i saw where it capped onto, so i tried to unscrew the part it caps onto to duck tape it together or something and saw coolant spill out. I looked at the end of it and it was just flat, so i quickly put it back in and i realized thats the sender. Heres pics of the capped part
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4660.jpg
Heres the sender which is very hard to see i tried to light it up with a flashlight but barely helped.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4659.jpg
Would duck taping the cap back on make it work again or would i need a new one?

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 03:11 PM
i need answers quick its getting dark soon and i have to put it back together.

Vanilla Sky
05-15-2007, 04:31 PM
No, you HAVE to replace that. There's no way around it. Let me check my yard before it gets dark to see if I have a spare.

I do NOT have a spare. That's "Thermovalve A."

ahmad89
05-15-2007, 04:37 PM
No, you HAVE to replace that. There's no way around it. Let me check my yard before it gets dark to see if I have a spare.
Ok thx man.