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A20A1
10-19-2006, 11:53 AM
http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html

Nice install page, just apply some things they did to our car.

Even shows crank trigger mod

carotman
10-19-2006, 01:07 PM
I was thinking about using MS on my hatch. However, the stock EFI setup isn't that bad.

If I was to use MS, I would use coilpacks instead of a distributor.

shepherd79
10-19-2006, 01:19 PM
i would have to agree with carotman, coilpacks would work a lot better.
i am sure you can still use stock efi distributor for TDC and cylinder position sensors.

Honda_Quaalude86
10-28-2006, 07:08 PM
i was considering a stand alone fuel managment.. but i think im going to go with an apexi air/fuel controler.. easier i think.. piggy back the stock ecu..whats the reson for not using the vacume advance dizzy with mega squirt?

89T
10-28-2006, 08:24 PM
i was considering a stand alone fuel managment.. but i think im going to go with an apexi air/fuel controler.. easier i think.. piggy back the stock ecu..whats the reson for not using the vacume advance dizzy with mega squirt?

timming control.

Honda_Quaalude86
10-28-2006, 11:13 PM
to retard the timming using a managment system? to prevent detonation? so when it needs to be reatarted it does it by its self? i think i understand..

89T
10-29-2006, 06:41 AM
to retard the timming using a managment system? to prevent detonation? so when it needs to be reatarted it does it by its self? i think i understand..

that would be the senario in a turbo application...

the afc will only control fuel, and limmit you on injector size and capable hp.
For the price of a safc and a btm you can get a fuel/spark management system and have 100% control over everything.

newaccorddriver
10-29-2006, 07:28 AM
that would be the senario in a turbo application...
the afc will only control fuel, and limmit you on injector size and capable hp.
For the price of a safc and a btm you can get a fuel/spark management system and have 100% control over everything.


safc/BTM will give you control of everything, but they have their limits. thats why im going megasquirt instead. it might take longer to setup, but ive got the time and patience for it.

the problem with BTM is it will retard the timing by a set amount per pound of boost, so theres not so much fine tuning about it. and ive never used an safc before, but im guessing its the same thing with fuel and trims it every 100 rpm or so which isnt too fine

89T
10-29-2006, 08:03 AM
safc/BTM will give you control of everything, but they have their limits. thats why im going megasquirt instead. it might take longer to setup, but ive got the time and patience for it.
the problem with BTM is it will retard the timing by a set amount per pound of boost, so theres not so much fine tuning about it. and ive never used an safc before, but im guessing its the same thing with fuel and trims it every 100 rpm or so which isnt too fine

The most hp gain i have ever heard of using a safc/btm is 200, and the biggest injector would be dsm 440's.
as far as safc settings they are user defineable at 500 rpm increments,witch is decent.. I agree that it would be nicer to fine tune to 250 rpm increments.

I am running the commander 950 on my accord and it is definable to 1 rpm increments.
It is tunned at 250 rpm increments at low rpm and 500 rpm at higher rpm.

i initionally used the safc/btm set up and acctually found it easier for the laymen to use and tune effictively..
I acctually had good gains using it, but it was time to step up..

I have heard that the megasquirt was good but i have not done much research on it.

newaccorddriver
10-29-2006, 08:28 AM
I have heard that the megasquirt was good but i have not done much research on it.


im taking on the big challenge of exploiting megasquirt to its full potential next spring hopefully. if it proves successful, then hopefully others will follow...

'A20A3'
05-05-2007, 06:34 PM
Will this work for the turbo setup? Opinions?

ghettogeddy
05-05-2007, 06:41 PM
http://www.megasquirt.info/

EricW
05-05-2007, 08:12 PM
I believe you will still have to change the distributor or run some other form of ignition control.

newaccorddriver
05-05-2007, 11:18 PM
I believe you will still have to change the distributor or run some other form of ignition control.


nope, we got what we need for ignition control. just search that website

'A20A3'
05-06-2007, 08:23 AM
damn that stuf looks real complicated...might just get a SAFC like i was originally thinking...the tunability with the megasquirt seems to be pretty extensive though. has anyone ever used megasquirt on a 3G before?

EricW
05-06-2007, 02:42 PM
nope, we got what we need for ignition control. just search that website

I just skimed it real quick, I didn't really get into any of the details.

newaccorddriver
05-06-2007, 08:24 PM
I just skimed it real quick, I didn't really get into any of the details.


simply put, we need a reluctor and a variable reluctor sensor. our distributors have that built into it. the ONLY thing we need to do is disable our vacuum advance which just means pulling those 2 vacuum lines off of it

PearlDrummer00
05-07-2007, 08:42 AM
I talked to a megasquirt dealer a few weeks ago and told him about my setup that i want. He said he can sell us ASSEMBLED (so you dont have to put it together, thus eliminating the complicated part...) anyway an assembled unit for fuel control for $320....and setup for ignition control for only $30 more. plus a wiring hardness for your laptop and your looking at about $380 or so. He also did some research on our dizzy and said we do INFACT have everything for ignition control. I told him i wanna run about 12 to 15 psi daily and he megasquirt is prefect for a more cheap/realible source for tuning. Plus you get to do it yourself which i personally think is badass. I suggest this route to ALL!!!!

cygnus x-1
05-07-2007, 10:26 PM
Was just looking over the MS ignition control page, and it's really pretty simple. The MS can fire the coil directly so all it needs is the signal from the reluctor in the distributor to get base timing. For maximum tuneability though you would want to disable the normal vacuum AND the mechanical advance, since MS can do both. For vacuum advance you just disconnect the vacuum. For mechanical advance you could modify the weights or just replace them with some spacers or something.
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newaccorddriver
05-07-2007, 11:47 PM
we actually have mechanical advance? i thought all our stuff was vacuum based? i kinda need to know how to disable it now then.. unless i can tune around the mechanical advance as well

MessyHonda
05-08-2007, 07:32 AM
we actually have mechanical advance? i thought all our stuff was vacuum based? i kinda need to know how to disable it now then.. unless i can tune around the mechanical advance as well



thats when the OBD1 comes in.....its all electronic

cygnus x-1
05-08-2007, 10:33 AM
There is vacuum advance AND mechanical advance. Mechanical advance uses little weights that swing out and advance the reluctor as RPM increases. Basically you could just cut the weights down so they won't swing out.

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newaccorddriver
05-08-2007, 10:51 AM
so its centrifugal advance as well as vacuum advance? would i be able to weld the sensor down so it doesnt advance itself? ive taken apart a distributor already and noticed that its only the sensor that actually moves

cygnus x-1
05-08-2007, 05:19 PM
First I should mention, I'm talking about the Tec distributor here. I've never taken a Hitachi apart. Look at this pdf, section 26-6 (page 500):

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/SvcMan/62SB002.pdf

The vacuum advance moves the stator, which is right below the pickup coil. The centrifugal advance is farther underneath. The governor weights push on the rotor shaft and it turns the reluctor in relation to the main shaft. There are lots of ways you could lock it down; hack up the weights, weld stuff together, whatever works.

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newaccorddriver
05-10-2007, 09:52 AM
does anyone have a guide on how to take apart a distributor? i kinda need one so i can see if its got centrifugal advance built into it

LX-incredible
05-10-2007, 12:09 PM
What kind of distributor? Our distributors have mechanical advance.

2ndGenGuy
05-10-2007, 12:50 PM
I think mechanical and centrifugal both describe the way our distributors work. Since I'm pretty sure it's the same thing.

EricW
05-10-2007, 07:22 PM
When i took apart the one i dissected to mount my OBD1 distributor to it was pretty easy. I removed the cam key, then there are three screws that you will see from the bottom(one on each leg down inside the hole). That will only give you access to the sensors though.

To remove the advance mechanism. From the top you should see a cap in the center of the shaft, remove it. Remove the two springs that you see inside of the distributor. Then there should be a screw under it take it out, this will allow you to remove the top half of the shaft, it should slide straight up easily, since it is supposed to move to advance the timing. That will leave you with the bottom half of the advance under it, there is nothing else under this piece other than the bearing along with a triangle shaped plate that is screwed down to secure the bearing to the top half of the distributor.

To remove the entire shaft you will have to pull the small pieces mounted to the shaft off that the sensors pic up the signal from. One of them(the one with only four points) has a pin in it to secure it, that you just need to push out with a small screw driver and a few light taps from a hammer. I can't remember how the other(the round one with multiple points) is secured. There was also a pin running through the shaft with a piece that slide down the shaft from the key end. I believe there was a C clip in there somewhere also but i don't remember everything.

That's all I've got with out taking apart my good one with less than 10k on it, that i don't need any more, or seeing pics of the bottom end.

LX-incredible
05-10-2007, 07:41 PM
I believe there was a C clip in there somewhere also but i don't remember everything.
One for the vacuum advance. On the later tec dizzys there was one for each advance weight.

To get to the mechanical advance on a tec, you will need to remove the ignitor, the reluctor, the pick up coil, and the advance plate.

newaccorddriver
05-11-2007, 09:44 AM
thanks for all the info guys. i talked to my machinist yesterday, and he told me that i can only have mechanical OR vacuum advance, not both as its not possible. now that i have gained some knowledge on this topic, i can actually go about dealing with megasquirts ignition setup.


ive asked this question on the megasquirt forum already, but nobody seemed to really know if it would work or not, but here goes. if i were to somehow lock the vacuum advance shaft and prevent the plate from moving at all, would that be a good way of removing ALL advance for my ignition setup?

A20A1
05-12-2007, 12:41 AM
Have you seen this thread I posted it a while back, may help a little.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53918

BTW we do have Centrifugal advance and vacuum as well.

newaccorddriver
05-12-2007, 08:10 AM
Have you seen this thread I posted it a while back, may help a little.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53918

BTW we do have Centrifugal advance and vacuum as well.

thanks for the link man. i never expected to see a thread like this

newaccorddriver
05-12-2007, 08:12 AM
There was a post about how to lock the weights, it's in the turbo forum or this forum I think.

I'm not sure if it was completely locked either, I think I remember it being locked partially but allowed some restricted movement.


when i get everything apart, im going to see how everything goes together, and from there, ill probably remove the weights and probably somehow lock the shafts together

newaccorddriver
05-16-2007, 01:37 AM
Balance the dizzy afterwards, you don't want to destroy the distributor cause the shaft wobbles.

is such a thing possible?(to balance it i mean)

A20A1
05-16-2007, 11:24 AM
I remember seeing it done on the net somewhere, they remove the shaft from the dizzy body, but keep everything else attatched to the shaft and balance it that way.

mikes87lude
05-24-2007, 02:52 PM
damn that stuf looks real complicated...might just get a SAFC like i was originally thinking...the tunability with the megasquirt seems to be pretty extensive though. has anyone ever used megasquirt on a 3G before?

I have a 2g lude si. I assembled my MS myself, wasnt too hard, if you can solder well. The lude runs great, and tuning isnt too hard with a laptop. The MS forums have lots of "nice" people there to help you out with tuning. As far as ignition I'd like to use a GM DIS unit. If only I could find a spot for that damn reluctor ring and crank sensor. :)

Estimated Prophet
05-24-2007, 02:53 PM
So is MS an alternative to the OBD-1 conversion?

mikes87lude
05-24-2007, 02:59 PM
So is MS an alternative to the OBD-1 conversion?
It's a stand alone unit like the AEM one. Completely programable. Next thing i'm buying is the wideband controller, but it is OK without it. For $80 I like the fine tuning of a wideband.

newaccorddriver
05-24-2007, 11:45 PM
As far as ignition I'd like to use a GM DIS unit. If only I could find a spot for that damn reluctor ring and crank sensor. :)


im going to try the HEI method and see how that goes. as far as my options goes, ive got my 36-1 wheel on, so technically, im ford EDIS ready.

the main reason why im trying HEI is because it uses a distributor. the engine compartment looks out of place with COP, coil packs, or other things when the distributors not in use

mikes87lude
05-25-2007, 05:20 AM
....ive got my 36-1 wheel on....

.....the engine compartment looks out of place with COP, coil packs, or other things when the distributors not in use.....

Where did you mount the ring and sensor?

Just remove the dizzy and plug the hole.

newaccorddriver
05-25-2007, 09:19 AM
Where did you mount the ring and sensor?
Just remove the dizzy and plug the hole.


i mounted it on the crank pulley. ill post pictures of my entire build including that soon when my engine in is the car.

as far as removing the distributor and plugging up the hole goes, its easier said then done

mikes87lude
05-25-2007, 09:27 AM
i mounted it on the crank pulley. ill post pictures of my entire build including that soon when my engine in is the car.

How did you mount the sensor? Did you make a bracket?


as far as removing the distributor and plugging up the hole goes, its easier said then done

Where there is a will there is a way.

newaccorddriver
05-25-2007, 09:45 AM
How did you mount the sensor? Did you make a bracket?



i didnt mount the sensor yet, but it is insanely easy to mount a sensor and position it properly once you get the wheel mounted on. as you can see from the picture below, there are several ways i can attach it on. ill probably be attaching it from the old ac mounting point though if i were to use EDIS

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/newaccorddriver/IM000733.jpg

mikes87lude
05-25-2007, 09:53 AM
Why use the ring if not using EDIS of GM DIS?

B16 intake?

newaccorddriver
05-25-2007, 11:09 AM
Why use the ring if not using EDIS of GM DIS?
B16 intake?


ya, its a B16 intake with a B18 throttle body.

the original plan was to use EDIS for ignition. i really couldnt care less about what my engine bay looks like if it performed like i wanted. i kinda strayed from my original plans when i talked to a guy running a shop for megasquirt. he told me that my distributor has everything i need to use the HEI setup, and it will be less of a hassle to setup despite having a vacuum distributor. i can still go EDIS, but im going for HEI, but if that doesnt turn out too well, then ill be going EDIS

A20A1
05-25-2007, 11:40 AM
Did you stip the protective coating off the pullies? or are they painted again?

mikes87lude
05-25-2007, 02:29 PM
I'd like to do the GM DIS but if the HEI works for you and gives you ignition timing control through Mega Tune let me know. I might go that rought myself.

How difficult was the B16 intake mod? The post makes it sound simple, but it's always nice to hear from someone who has done it .

newaccorddriver
05-25-2007, 10:47 PM
I'd like to do the GM DIS but if the HEI works for you and gives you ignition timing control through Mega Tune let me know. I might go that rought myself.
How difficult was the B16 intake mod? The post makes it sound simple, but it's always nice to hear from someone who has done it .

with the B16 intake manifold, it was a royal pain in the ass to fit. i guess i made it harder on myself to lend my friend my tools cause i had to bring the manifold to his place, and drill/cut the flange. i had a spare head, so i tryed fitting it on, but it didnt work cause the bolt holes were drilled at an angle. with a little bit more grinding of the holes with a small bit, it fit perfectly to the head. the ONLY bolt i couldnt torque down was the one in the top middle, which was impossible to get at anyways, holefully every other bolt will prevent it from sealing.

once i get everything setup, ill let people know how good it is. i got robbed of my weekend, so i cant dissect the distributor i have to remove the weights anymore... ill get to it next weekend probably.

newaccorddriver
05-25-2007, 10:50 PM
Did you stip the protective coating off the pullies? or are they painted again?


i wasnt aware that it came with a protective coating of any sort. the machine shop that worked on my motor bead blasted the crank pulley along with a few mounts on the engine, and they came out that color. thats the natural color of it apparently compared to the dull copper like color it was before

mikes87lude
05-26-2007, 05:12 PM
.....so i tryed fitting it on, but it didnt work cause the bolt holes were drilled at an angle....

A drill press would definately be a plus.


....once i get everything setup, ill let people know how good it is....

Don't tell me how good it is. Give me pros as well as cons. I hear the B16 intake gives a little more top end HP at the expense of some low end torque. I'd like to know how true this is, especially if someone else is doing all the dirty work. :)


....i got robbed of my weekend, so i cant dissect the distributor i have to remove the weights anymore....

That sucks. Who was the culprit, what done stole yur week end?

What is the purpose for removing the slings from your dizzy?

newaccorddriver
05-26-2007, 10:43 PM
Don't tell me how good it is. Give me pros as well as cons. I hear the B16 intake gives a little more top end HP at the expense of some low end torque. I'd like to know how true this is, especially if someone else is doing all the dirty work. :)
That sucks. Who was the culprit, what done stole yur week end?
What is the purpose for removing the slings from your dizzy?


comparing the HEI to the GM DIS or ford EDIS, i think the best part of the HEI is that it uses the sensors that are already on our cars. it requires very little work to actually get it to work, and no fabrication work. i havent researched the gm DIS or ford EDIS, but i believe they both use a wasted spark system, so the voltage on each of those sparks is split in half whereas with the HEI, you get one powerful spark each time.

the main reason why im going HEI is because its cosmetically 'in place'. the only thing i have to do is remove the weights, and lock the shafts together which is alot easier then modifying my car with a crank trigger which both the GM DIS and ford EDIS needs. i know ive got my crank pulley modded for EDIS already, and its easier to setup, but i wanna do HEI to 'inspire' people to do the same thing. its easier to get people to take apart their distributor then to take out their crank pulley, order a trigger wheel, and to have it machined on and welded.

as far as the B16 intake manifold goes, it gives you a better top end at the expense of the low end. for what im using this car for, its not a problem. although i havent actually ran the motor yet, i think its a little exaggerated. when we speed up in traffic, its our feet that control how fast we accelerate. when it comes to the drag strip, our feet are planted to the floor anyways, so we could use the better top end anyways.


i got robbed of my weekend because we 'needed' a sunday shift which i believe is totally BS. my foreman is on a temporary power trip since nobody really wanted to work on the weekend, so he dragged 5 of us into his office and tore us up new assholes. what he failed to realize is that ive been working for a different department for the past week or so, so obviously there was no work for me or anybody that helped me to do

mikes87lude
05-27-2007, 06:11 AM
.......the best part of the HEI is that it uses the sensors that are already on our cars, it requires very little work to actually get it to work, and no fabrication work...

....the main reason why im going HEI is because its cosmetically 'in place'.....

So, if you set up our dizzy to look as moch as possable as a HEI dizzy it should work. As far as the internal parts are concerned?


... i havent researched the gm DIS or ford EDIS, but i believe they both use a wasted spark system......

Correct.


....but i wanna do HEI to 'inspire' people to do the same thing.....

You make a stron argument for HEI. It would be much more simple to slightly modify an existing dizzy, and wire up an HEI module. MS instruction manual even tells you how to wire it up.


....i got robbed of my weekend because we 'needed' a sunday shift which i believe is totally BS...there was no work for me or anybody that helped me to do

Sucks to loose a sunday, but overtime is always good when payday comes around.

cygnus x-1
05-28-2007, 08:52 PM
I've decided to take the plunge into FI so I've been thinking about how to do the ignition. Using the stock distributor plus an HEI module seems like a good idea but one thing is bothering me. I'm not sure that the rotor is wide enough to allow for enough advance without actually advancing the rotor itself. The mechanical part of the advance actually changes the position of the rotor with respect to the cam. If the mechanical advance is disabled the rotor will then be fixed relative to the cam and I'm not sure the rotor will be lined up with each plug terminal soon enough to get the full advance at higher RPMs.
I was curious about the newer electronic distributors so today I went and pulled one from a '90 Integra. As I expected the rotor is much wider than on A20 distributors. So I wonder, has anyone actually tried using an A20 distributor with MS?

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newaccorddriver
05-29-2007, 01:40 AM
im not fully aware of how the timing advance/retard works on a car, so i shouldnt get into this too much and lead people the wrong way. my arguement would be how much actual advance we truly need on a car that goes upto around 8000rpm realistically. our rotors might not be that wide, but i think its a fare amount of space and possibly advance we can get from it. we can also set our base timing on megasquirt as well, so that adds a bunch of advance already.


i guess whoever gets to it first, will be the first to try it out/suceed

worst comes to worst, we can probably salvage the TDC or cylinder sensor on our distributors and somehow run EDIS or GM DIS on it.

cygnus x-1
05-29-2007, 10:15 AM
What I'm trying to say is that by locking the mechanical advance part of the distributor down, you limit the amount of advance that the distributor can handle because the rotor has not yet gotten close enough to the terminal to allow the spark to the plug wire. Regardless of the timing of the coil firing, the rotor has to line up with each terminal at the right time to get the spark energy to the plugs at the right time. I'm concerned that the amount of usable advance will be severely limited compared to stock.



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newaccorddriver
05-29-2007, 10:21 AM
have you tried fitting the integra rotor onto the accord distributor?

cygnus x-1
05-29-2007, 01:54 PM
have you tried fitting the integra rotor onto the accord distributor?

No, but that very thought occurred to me later on. From what I remember of the integra rotor is larger in diameter so I'm betting it wouldn't fit. But you're on the right track. Another possibility is to lock out the mechanical advance such that the rotor is already advanced somewhat to begin with. In a sense you fix some amount of static advance so that you don't need as much adjustable range. This could also be done just by rotating the whole distributor as well.

Does anyone know what the spark duration time is for A20 ignitions?

EDIT: First I said "dwell" but what I actually meant was "spark duration".

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newaccorddriver
05-29-2007, 11:39 PM
No, but that very thought occurred to me later on. From what I remember of the integra rotor is larger in diameter so I'm betting it wouldn't fit. But you're on the right track. Another possibility is to lock out the mechanical advance such that the rotor is already advanced somewhat to begin with. In a sense you fix some amount of static advance so that you don't need as much adjustable range. This could also be done just by rotating the whole distributor as well.

Does anyone know what the spark duration time is for A20 ignitions?

EDIT: First I said "dwell" but what I actually meant was "spark duration".

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the beauty of MS is that with the HEI module, you gotta set the base timing, and you need to set it at a certain degree, but from there, i believe you can also set the offset to advance it even more. the only concern with that is that it might be advanced a bit too much at certain points of the map. if we have a base advance of 10 on a stock setting, and we make it 20 degrees instead, there are some parts of the map that might be getting too much advance.

im going to the junkyard on friday, ill see if they have any integra distributors to test fit and compare

cygnus x-1
05-30-2007, 05:19 PM
I measured the rotor on my spare A20 distributor, and it equates to about 35 degrees of rotation. So this means that the rotor is lined up with each terminal for 35 degrees of rotation. So there will be at the very most 35 degrees of timing adjustment for MS to play with. At high RPMs it could be even less because of the time required for spark duration and how fast the rotor passes by the terminal. If the coil fires too late the rotor may have mostly passed by the terminal already and the full spark energy won't be conducted to the plugs. Now I'm not sure how much advance range we really need, so it might not be as big a deal as I'm thinking.

As for other rotors, as long as they fit the shaft and everything lines up ok they could be used. Wouldn't have to be an Integra rotor either, anthing would work.

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cygnus x-1
06-02-2007, 09:37 PM
I journeyed out to the boneyard today to grab some fuel lines (stupid Ford fuel pump uses these fittings that seem to cost a fortune) and to check out distributors. The 4g Accords and the 90 Integra appear to use the same distributor. I checked out the rotor and it's not compatible with the A20 distributors. I also test fit a 4g Accord dristributor to an A20. It fits but it's really tight because the 4g distributors are huge.
Then I discovered something interesting. 3g fuel injected Preludes also use electronic advance, and the distributors are the same size as the A20 distributors. They have 3 mounting ears and they don't quite line up with the A20 mounting holes but they're pretty close. So I bought one to play with. Now I just need to order the MS.

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cygnus x-1
07-16-2007, 11:33 AM
Just a quickie update. I'm nearly finished with the MS conversion. I decided to give up on distributors in general and went with the FORD crank triggered EDIS setup. I'll post more when I get home from work.

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cygnus x-1
07-17-2007, 10:48 AM
To back track a bit, I messed around with the 3g Prelude distributor and decided that it's really no better than any of the other distributors as far as modification for electronic control is concerned. It's setup for direct electronic control but you still have to deal with mounting it.

So in the end you will have to do some modifications, whether it be to the distributor or to the crank pulley. So I decided that the EDIS system is really the best solution despite the higher level of modification difficulty. I have a lathe though so it really wasn't that bad. I also don't have AC or PS so that made it even easier.

I have a thread over on PP with more info and pictures:

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268263

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MessyHonda
07-17-2007, 11:42 AM
did you mess with a 4th gen accord dizzy also?

cygnus x-1
07-20-2007, 10:34 AM
I played around some with a couple F22 distributors at the junkyard. The problem with those is that they are huge and clearance with the thermostat housing is an issue. It could be done but would be very tight. If you really wanted to stick with a distributor I think a 3g Prelude one would be easier since its the same size as the 3g Accord ones. And 3g 'ludes are still somewhat common.

For the trouble though I still think EDIS is the way to go. I just got the car running last night and let me say, the capability of the Megasquirt with EDIS is unbelievable. You can tweak ignition timing and AFR at any RPM and manifold pressure; WHILE IT'S RUNNING! And see and hear the effect on the engine immediately. Incredible. Almost scary.

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MessyHonda
07-20-2007, 11:49 AM
I played around some with a couple F22 distributors at the junkyard. The problem with those is that they are huge and clearance with the thermostat housing is an issue. It could be done but would be very tight. If you really wanted to stick with a distributor I think a 3g Prelude one would be easier since its the same size as the 3g Accord ones. And 3g 'ludes are still somewhat common.

For the trouble though I still think EDIS is the way to go. I just got the car running last night and let me say, the capability of the Megasquirt with EDIS is unbelievable. You can tweak ignition timing and AFR at any RPM and manifold pressure; WHILE IT'S RUNNING! And see and hear the effect on the engine immediately. Incredible. Almost scary.

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ok get in a box and come over to do the same set up on my car....i saw the pics over at PP...and its crazy.