timing belt: removing crank pulley

[88accordSF]

the timing belt cover doesn't come off unless you take of the crank pulley, correct?

on a a20a1 engine w/ ac, power steering

---booyah

[2ndGenGuy]

Correct.

[88accordSF]

how does the timing belt come off WITHOUT removing the upper drivers-side motor mount? it seems to be looped around that bracket connected to the motor mount on the top right side (looking into the engine bay from the front of the car)...

[A18A]

unless its snapped it wont come out, you gotta jack up the engine & undo the mount

[MessyHonda]

when i did my timing belt i dont remember moving the mount. il ask my uncle.

[88accordSF]

looking at it, i'm pretty sure i have to remove the mount. it should only take a 10 mins to jack the motor just a bit for upwards pressure and remove a few bolts..

[88accordSF]

what's the SAFEST way to remove the crank pulley?

can't turn the engine on (to switch it into gear... automatic tranny), cause the head is off... so the pulley moves freely...

trying not to turn the crankshaft at all either, while removing the bolt.... its at TDC right now, but can always rotate it around again if it bumps during the pulley removal

?

[A18A]

not sure if this would work on a auto, maybe you could just put it in D http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31007&highlight=crank+bolt of course you would lose TDC by doing that, but its easy enough to bring it back :)

[MessyHonda]

i used a impact gun....came out easy

[88accordSF]

i used a impact gun....came out easy

with the new 28 gallon compressor and 450ft/lbs reverse impact gun, taking the crank pulley off will be straightforward. trigger finger time....

what about holding the crank still while torquing the crank pulley bolt to 83 ft/lbs?

what's the safetest way to stop the crank from spinning reverse-rotation (clockwise) while torquing the bolt?

trying to avoid scratching the top of the piston with a screw driver using the flat-head-into-the-chamber-thru-a-spark-plug-hole technique. can also jam up the spark plug hole threads close to the top of the hole with the long part of the screwdriver....?

putting the tip of a flat head driver jammed up on the crank pulley timing belt gear could chip the gear?

[88Accord-DX]

After you run the bolt down, about 3 hits from the impact driver mechanism= 87 ft. lbs.
87 ft. lbs isn't a whole lot, doubt you will chip teeth off the flywheel with a thick screwdriver someone is holding down hard with lots of pressure.

[DBMaster]

I used to just tip a mechanic at a local shop $5 to break it loose with the shop's impact gun. Then, it was a simple matter of hand tightening it and driving home to do the rest of the job. Last time I got lazy and for the first time in the life of the car I let a shop do the timing belt.

Unless you are a practitioner of the dark arts there is no way to remove the belt without undoing the motor mount first. It's pretty easy, though. Using a jack under the engine is not even that critical. Remove the two bolts connecting the engine to the mount. Loosen the long bolt holding the mount to the body and rotate the mount out of the way. As I recall, even without a jack under the engine I still had to push down on the motor to get even the small clearance needed to remove the belt.

[88accordSF]

After you run the bolt down, about 3 hits from the impact driver mechanism= 87 ft. lbs.

3 hits from the impact gun does not even come close to any knowledgable torque value

1 hit from the impact gun could be up to 450 ft lbs, depending on the gun itself. plain and simple. torque is torque.

no offense, buddy.

[88Accord-DX]

3 hits from the impact gun does not even come close to any knowledgable torque value
1 hit from the impact gun could be up to 450 ft lbs, depending on the gun itself. plain and simple. torque is torque.
no offense, buddy.
That was just an estimate. I've got a 650 ft. lbs. impact driver & played around with it installing rims on a car. I basically was demonstrating to this 'other guy' at my shop not be using an impact on lug nuts. The impact hit around 4-5 times & was well over 100 ft. lbs. (broke out my torque wrench to show him)

Yeah, if ya wanna be safe. Use a torque wrench on it.

[AccordEpicenter]

dont forget as long as it is pretty tight its not gonna come out, just the engine running itself will make the bolt tighter over time

[88accordSF]

dont forget as long as it is pretty tight its not gonna come out, just the engine running itself will make the bolt tighter over time

realistically there's only two only dangers in overtorquing the crank bolt:

1) hosing the crank threads (hard, but doable.... i did on my first chevy small block engine build about 12 years ago)

2) a bolt holds less strength when even torqued nominally. a bolt holds the most strength by itself, with no stress. torqued perfectly, that same bolt has less strength, because there are forces constantly being applied to it. with an overtorque, you're doubling that weakening effect of the of the bolt... the threads and bolt head all become vunerable areas of overstress. in real life, a little overtorque won't kill ya. but a lot of overtorque can seriously fuck up your program....

i hold my hand WAY high to include myself in the many voluntary times of doing this manuever, thinking i wouldn't need a torque wrench on point, and therefore fucking off a perfectly good threads..... :banghead: