Car shuts off when...

[ahmad89]

Every morning i turn on my car and it idles at like 2k rpms and i accidently blipped the gas and it went down to about 1500 rpms then it just kept going down until it just shut off. It does this everytime i blip the gas when i first start it in the morning. What is causing this? vacuum leak or could i have hooked up a vacuum line to the wrong place? I could take a video tomorrow morning for yall to get a good idea.
The weird thing is after i let it warm up when i shift into reverse or D4 the rpms are really low and when i press the gas it gets lower to like 300 rpms or so i put more gas and it stays alive, but when i kinda floor it to like 4k rpms it seems fine it idles at 1k in gear. What would cause these issues?

[Blkblurr]

Did you check the vacuum lines routing against the manual? This just happened after you worked on other problems right?

[ahmad89]

Did you check the vacuum lines routing against the manual? This just happened after you worked on other problems right?
Yea after i reconnected the vacuum lines this happened so im thinking i put the wrong line in the wrong place but i theres like 3 number 17 lines and only one 17 spot. If i take a pic of the lines would it help for yall to help?

[Vanilla Sky]

17 is one of the thermovalve controlled lines.

[ahmad89]

17 is one of the thermovalve controlled lines.
ok well theres 3 of them. Want me to take a pic and point out the numbers of the lines? I'll do it tomorrow after school.

[ahmad89]

Here are pics of how my hoses are.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4685.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4684.jpg
The red line means that hose is the same one it just loops up and the master cylinder is blocking that part.
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4683.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/PICT4681.jpg
I have a feeling that the hose thats marked by the red line is connected to the wrong part, am i right?

[ahmad89]

You know im not posting these pics to show off my car..... Please help me out, are the vacuum lines hooked up properly? You guys used to be johnny on the spot with the help now i havn't heard anything for a couple days.

[LX-incredible]

It's pretty darn hard for us to check your connections with just photos. You need to print out a diagram and go out and check it yourself.

[ahmad89]

Well i figured yall could tell from looking at your cars or if yall knew how they were suppose to be hooked up. Where can i get the diagram? and can you tell me at all if theres a vacuum line hooked up to the wrong place? I want to do this now or before late sunday cause i have plenty of time right now. Oh i think i forgot to mention that a hose under the 3 or 4 lines going from the carb, is cut or broken in the middle of the line. Would that cause it? do you want me to take a pic for a better idea? pelase reply quickly.

[ahmad89]

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/ahmadr34/brokenhose.jpg
Circled in red is the broken or cut hose that im talking about, it is behind the carb under the 3 vacuum lines that go from the back of the carb to the metal tubing. Could that be the reason why my car is shutting off?

[A20A1]

#17 does go to the underneath of the Air Filter Box from the hard metal lines.

#14 goes to the carburetor from the Hard lines, it carries vacuum so it needs to be connected correctly at both places.

Fix any broken vacuum lines.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45880

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38108


.

#17 looks like it's in the right place though.

The #14 you marked is probably going from the carb to the hard line from the hard line to the intake manifold to tap into the vacuum.

Their is a tower of vacuum ports extended from the top of the intake manifold which is basicly a tap into manifold vacuum.


the other #17's go either to the thermovalve or to a solenoid... but it's hard to say which one is which, maybe top down pics would be better that side pics but I don't think their is a need at the moment.

Hrm, did you remove the air filter box? if so make sure the vacuum lines under the air box are connected correctly and are not loosely fitted vacuum lines, meaning the ends of the vacuum lines have dried and expanded to the point they no longer create a good vacuum seal around the vacuum port they connect to.

[ahmad89]

#17 does go to the underneath of the Air Filter Box from the hard metal lines.
#14 goes to the carburetor from the Hard lines, it carries vacuum so it needs to be connected correctly at both places.
Fix any broken vacuum lines.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45880
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38108
.
#17 looks like it's in the right place though.
The #14 you marked is probably going from the carb to the hard line from the hard line to the intake manifold to tap into the vacuum.
Their is a tower of vacuum ports extended from the top of the intake manifold which is basicly a tap into manifold vacuum.
the other #17's go either to the thermovalve or to a solenoid... but it's hard to say which one is which, maybe top down pics would be better that side pics but I don't think their is a need at the moment.
Hrm, did you remove the air filter box? if so make sure the vacuum lines under the air box are connected correctly and are not loosely fitted vacuum lines, meaning the ends of the vacuum lines have dried and expanded to the point they no longer create a good vacuum seal around the vacuum port they connect to.
I connected the vacuum line from under the air box on the driver side to the number 14 thats above the number 17 hard line, and i messed with the a/c idle boost and i turned the car on then blipped the gas, it didnt shut off. I turned the a/c on and the rpms dropped to around 800 so i went back under the hood and loosened the adjusting screw thats by the firewall, i took it out and it sucked my finger, kinda scared me then i put the screw back in and as i was tightening it i heard the rpms raise, i froze in shock and went to check the rpms it was idling around 1100 then i turned the a/c off and the rpms stayed there as i turned it off and on. I was so relieved and excited, finally i can be cool on a hot day and not sweat like i used to. When i shifted in gear with the a/c on the rpms were around 900 then when reversed the rpms didnt go down like it used to. I drove it around a little bit and the car ran like a champ.On Monday when i go to school that will be the test cause its usually a little bit cold in the mornings or thats when it would die if i blip the gas. I will get back to yall around 9:15 or so on Monday.
Thank you all for your help and advice and sorry for being pushy i just wanted to get started on it now so i wont have to work at night with mosquitoes and bugs.

[ahmad89]

Well there is another problem that just came about, the a/c idle boost works when it wants to, at first it works fine then after awhile it dies or something until i mess with the screw by the firewall and it kicks back in, so i turned off my car and the overflow tank was steaming(Radiator fan and a/c fan not working) and i adjusted both screws and will find out tomorrow and see what happens. Other than that the car runs fine.

[russiankid]

Well there is another problem that just came about, the a/c idle boost works when it wants to, at first it works fine then after awhile it dies or something until i mess with the screw by the firewall and it kicks back in, so i turned off my car and the overflow tank was steaming(Radiator fan and a/c fan not working) and i adjusted both screws and will find out tomorrow and see what happens. Other than that the car runs fine.
Get some fans.

[ahmad89]

Get some fans.
I will but why does my idle boost turn off by itself then come back on? i tightened the adjustment screw that has a spring after i turned off the car im going to move it back to my spot in a bit. Tomorrow ima mess with it some more and see what happens.

[russiankid]

I will but why does my idle boost turn off by itself then come back on? i tightened the adjustment screw that has a spring after i turned off the car im going to move it back to my spot in a bit. Tomorrow ima mess with it some more and see what happens.
It turns off because it only turns on when the a/c compressor is on. So when the a/c compressor turns off the idle boost clicks off. When the a/c compressor kicks on the idle boost kicks on.

[ahmad89]

It turns off because it only turns on when the a/c compressor is on. So when the a/c compressor turns off the idle boost clicks off. When the a/c compressor kicks on the idle boost kicks on.
Is something wrong with my compressor?

[russiankid]

Is something wrong with my compressor?
No, it isn't always on. It only comes on when the pressure in the system gets low. So it comes on builds up the pressure and turns off. All cars do that.

[ahmad89]

No, it isn't always on. It only comes on when the pressure in the system gets low. So it comes on builds up the pressure and turns off. All cars do that.
Gay my rpms get low when its off then raise when its on. Does it happen to anyone else but me?

[russiankid]

Gay my rpms get low when its off then raise when its on. Does it happen to anyone else but me?
How low? Mine goes from 950rpm to about 1200rpm(idle boost) then back to 950rpm when the idle boost turns off.

[ahmad89]

It goes frm 950ish to 700ish, the oil light flashes when its that low and its warmed up. Also earlier my idle speed was just under 2k rpms i dont know why, so i loosened the idle screw with it off and like i said i'll see tomorrow how it is. When the idle boost is on it stays at 950 or 1k.

[russiankid]

Sounds like you lowered your idle to much.

[ahmad89]

Sounds like you lowered your idle to much.
I lowered it after i turned the car off and my idle speed is around 1200 but then when it warms up its at 1k

[russiankid]

I lowered it after i turned the car off and my idle speed is around 1200 but then when it warms up its at 1k
Idle is adjusted with the car on.

[ahmad89]

Idle is adjusted with the car on.
I know that but the overflow tank was steaming so i didnt wanna turn it on, im going to start it when i park it in my spot.

[ahmad89]

Idle is adjusted with the car on.
I know that but the overflow tank was steaming so i didnt wanna turn it on, im going to start it when i park it in my spot.

[Vanilla Sky]

there are two boosts. the AC idle boost and the dashpot system. You're jumping the gun by using your AC idle boost to control your idle. Read: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572

[ahmad89]

there are two boosts. the AC idle boost and the dashpot system. You're jumping the gun by using your AC idle boost to control your idle. Read: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572
I adjust my idle speed with the idle speed adjusting screw thats by the carb or the fuel line i think or its the same hose as the fuel line. I adjust the a/c idle boost with the small screw on the back of the solenoid or whatever thats right by the firewall. The car seems fine now and is it ok to drive without the plastic part that goes from the black thing behind the valve cover and goes under the air box? Its black, thick and has a part on top that doesnt connect to anything and says honda or has the honda sign on it. I think someone told me its ok to have it off doesnt effect anything.

[LX-incredible]

No, it isn't always on. It only comes on when the pressure in the system gets low. So it comes on builds up the pressure and turns off. All cars do that.
It runs until the evaporator gets cold, then the thermoswitch shuts it off to prevent the evaporator from icing. Not all cars have this function. The only time that the pressure comes into play is when the low side falls below 10 psi or so. This happens when the system is low on refrigerant.

[ahmad89]

It runs until the evaporator gets cold, then the thermoswitch shuts it off to prevent the evaporator from icing. Not all cars have this function. The only time that the pressure comes into play is when the low side falls below 10 psi or so. This happens when the system is low on refrigerant.
So i need to refrigerate my system?

[LX-incredible]

No, not unless it isn't cooling properly. That little click that you hear while driving is the thermoswitch turning the compressor off to prevent icing. On a hot day with the blower on high the compressor should run almost continuous. Rapid cycling of the thermoswitch on an average day can indicate a slightly low charge. I was just correcting what was said earlier.

[ahmad89]

No, not unless it isn't cooling properly. That little click that you hear while driving is the thermoswitch turning the compressor off to prevent icing. On a hot day with the blower on high the compressor should run almost continuous. Rapid cycling of the thermoswitch on an average day can indicate a slightly low charge. I was just correcting what was said earlier.
Oh ok thanks for the help everyone.