distributor disassembly

[dmitch31]

Found out my problem is my distributor. It had a LOT of finely ground metal shavings in it, and there is all kinds of play in it. I have another distributor from a carbed Accord, and it's different otherwise I'd just switch it out.

What I'm wondering is, might there be parts inside this good distributor that doesn't go on my car that I could swap into my distributor to fix it? It sure would save me some money. Well, naturally, I'd like to find out, but I can't figure out how to get the darn things apart!

Any advice? Anyone disassembled these before?

Thank you.

[LX-incredible]

The spring(s) fell off of the mechanical advance. They will need to be replaced along with the weight(s) and whatever else was destroyed. The dealer doesn't stock these parts. I haven't found a suitable replacement for the springs yet, but maybe someone else here has. Is it a TEC or a Hitachi? I can show you where to get a replacement bearing and seal for the TEC, while you are in there. What is the parts dizzy from?

[dmitch31]

My car is an 87 LXI. The distributor is a TEC. The other distributor I have, which is from a different Accord, is a TEC also. The other one is good. I think I could repair mine with parts out of this other one, but I need to know how to get the things apart. Anyone know how?

Thanks.

[LX-incredible]

* Start with removing the vacuum advance, it has 2 screws and an E-clip. Do not rotate the shaft of the vacuum advance, as it will affect timing.
* Remove the reluctor under the rotor. Take two flat-head screwdrivers and place them on opposite sides under the reluctor. Pry evenly against the distributor housing until you can slide it off. Be careful not to pry against the "teeth" of the reluctor, or lose the small dowel that holds it on.
* Next remove the ignitor and it's cover. It is located on the side and is held on with two screws. Pull it straight out, to reduce the risk of damage to it's connections.
* Now remove the pickup coil and it's wiring. It's under where the reluctor was, 2 screws.
* Remove the advance/pickup plate as a whole unit, it is held on by 2 screws in slots, on the outer edges of the round plate.
* Remove the cap on the center of the rotor shaft with an icepick or something similar, then remove the screw and washer underneath.
* Mark the shafts in relation to each other thoroughly before separating.

Now all that holds the rotor shaft is whatever advance springs are still attached.

* To remove both shafts as a unit, remove the c-clip on the head end and remove the dowel.

* For fuel injected models you will need to remove the 3 screws located in the distributor mounting holes, the one screw that holds the connector, and then the back housing, by holding it and tapping on the engine side of the shaft. You will then need to mark the shaft and reluctor sleeve, drive out the dowel, and slide off the sleeve. Be sure to mark the shaft in a way that won't rub off, if you install it incorrectly your car will not run.

* Remove the three screws that hold the triangular plate on, and tap the shaft and bearing out through the front.

While you are in there, it would be smart to replace the bearing and the shaft seal.

[Strugglebucket]

* Start with removing the vacuum advance, it has 2 screws and an E-clip. Do not rotate the shaft of the vacuum advance, as it will affect timing.
LX-incredible, would you happen to know a proper measurement of how far the shaft should protrude when fully extended (no vac)?

[LX-incredible]

LX-incredible, would you happen to know a proper measurement of how far the shaft should protrude when fully extended (no vac)?
There is no exact measurement for this, when vacuum is applied it will advance exactly the same amount. Turning it in or out will affect base timing only. If you run out of travel when timing, you can use this to give you some more. Keep this in mind when you install.
It should be around 1 11/16 in from the top of the o-ring seat to the tip of the rod, but it can vary. The only way to adjust correctly is to install and turn the rod so that the advance/pickup plate is positioned exactly like this:
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3158/puplposmd9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Also note the position of the rotor, it is at TDC #1, this will help when reassembling. Below is the key at TDC #1:
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/5553/keypospl9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Strugglebucket]

thanks for taking the time, i appreciate it.

my rebuilt distributor always had to be turned fully counter-clockwise to get it to 15btdc, which sucks if you want to retard cam timing. i never thought of adjusting the vac advance shaft before but i think it should fix my problem.

[integratuner77]

Hey, I'm rebuilding my distributor now and I just put it back on and tried to start it up but it wont start. I pulled the plugs and they are white so I believe the timing is too far advanced. However I retarded it as much as possible and it still wont start. Can I change the alignment of the pick up/advance plate? How do you align this plate to begin with? Lastly I got a new vacuum advance diaphragm should I mess with turning the shaft?

[Oldblueaccord]

Well I would check that you have spark at the plugs by eye. Even with alot of advance it should atleast fire up. Leave the bolts out if you have to and have some one crank it while you move it around.


wp

[integratuner77]

Hey, I checked for spark yesterday and I know I'm getting spark. I'm all alone here though (just moved to a new area) so I don't know anyone that could help me out. Which would be better a lot of advance or a lot of retard to initially start it so I can play with it?

[integratuner77]

Okay.. well I just went out and tried again. I disconnect vacuum line #25 so it wont advance the timing. I got it to kick over a few times, but it wouldn't start. I pulled the plugs and they were pretty fouled up. I left all of them out and I'm cleaning them up. I'm going to try and advance it a little more and hopefully she will start..

I'm still curious though how do you line up the pick up/advance plate in the distributor? I have the manual, but it does not go into detail at all for the insides of the distributor.

[Dr_Snooz]

* Start with removing the vacuum advance, it has 2 screws and an E-clip. Do not rotate the shaft of the vacuum advance, as it will affect timing.
* Remove the reluctor under the rotor. Take two flat-head screwdrivers and place them on opposite sides under the reluctor. Pry evenly against the distributor housing until you can slide it off. Be careful not to pry against the "teeth" of the reluctor, or lose the small dowel that holds it on.
* Next remove the ignitor and it's cover. It is located on the side and is held on with two screws. Pull it straight out, to reduce the risk of damage to it's connections.
* Now remove the pickup coil and it's wiring. It's under where the reluctor was, 2 screws.
* Remove the advance/pickup plate as a whole unit, it is held on by 2 screws in slots, on the outer edges of the round plate.
* Remove the cap on the center of the rotor shaft with an icepick or something similar, then remove the screw and washer underneath.
* Mark the shafts in relation to each other thoroughly before separating.

Now all that holds the rotor shaft is whatever advance springs are still attached.

* To remove both shafts as a unit, remove the c-clip on the head end and remove the dowel.

* For fuel injected models you will need to remove the 3 screws located in the distributor mounting holes, the one screw that holds the connector, and then the back housing, by holding it and tapping on the engine side of the shaft. You will then need to mark the shaft and reluctor sleeve, drive out the dowel, and slide off the sleeve. Be sure to mark the shaft in a way that won't rub off, if you install it incorrectly your car will not run.

* Remove the three screws that hold the triangular plate on, and tap the shaft and bearing out through the front.

While you are in there, it would be smart to replace the bearing and the shaft seal.

This looks like the beginnings of an awesome how-to thread, dude. I think a lot of these old distributors are getting tired. Mine is causing a strange electrical cut-out/starter hop when I start the car. I could seriously use a good how-to thread with symptoms of a bad distributor, where to get parts and (of course) big, wonderful pics. :bow:

[integratuner77]

Ya I agree... I might make a how to thread eventually but right now I'm pretty much stranded without my car as I just moved to a new area and dont know anyone around. I got it running now. I shifted the breaker plate (or advance plate) and reinstalled the distributor. It is as advanced as it will go yet the ignition timing is still a bit retarded (no pun intended) as a result I believe the breaker plate still needs some adjusting. When I go to visit my parents some time, all my tools are there, I will do a write up on disassembling the distributor and everything that you need to know. For now its running though and thats all I care about.

[Dr_Snooz]

No sweat. I'm in no hurry really. Mine is down right now too. I had to swap my engine out after running the car without oil (long story). The new engine doesn't develop oil pressure, so if it's not the pump, I've got a lot of work ahead of me. Especially when the car and workspace are 200 miles away from work and home.

Anyway, when I do fix it, the distributor will probably be the next thing in line for attention. Napa sells rebuilts, but at $400, it's well worth my time to rebuild it myself.