Installing alternator

[Strahan]

I'm going to look at buying an 87 LXi hatch tomorrow. The guy said the alternator is dead so I'm wondering how much of a PITA it is to install a new alternator. I did a quick search and saw people talking about removing half shafts and such.. is that really necessary or is there a trick/shortcut/another method to make it quicker/easier? I've installed alternators on a few cars before so I'm familiar with the basics.

Thanks!

[Pico]

if it's injected just remove the airbox assembly and slide the alternator out for behind the engine real easy to do once the air cleaner is out of the way

[Strahan]

Sweet, thanks. I was hoping there would be an easy way, heh.

[Strahan]

Can someone post an engine shot from a FI car? I wanna see it if possible so I can get a better idea of what I'm doing.

[Oldblueaccord]

Its really easy from the top with the stock air box setup out of the way. Its a good excuse to go with a cold air intake and get rid of the box and piping. You can do the oil filter from the top as well. I just use a K+N filter cone right on the throttle body.

There is one lower bolt you may want to remove the tire to get at or jack and get underneath the car.


wp

[BITESIZE]

I can swap an alternator in 5 minutes in pure darkness now. I've done it about 6 times. Fucking autozone alternators suck!

[forrest89sei]

Can someone post an engine shot from a FI car? I wanna see it if possible so I can get a better idea of what I'm doing.


Here are Frantik's engine pics from the recent Nor Cal Meet:


Some engine bay shots

Cheese
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5783/p1010036eo5.jpg

Frantik
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2741/p1010045zu7.jpg

Messy
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/7199/p1010050ns0.jpg


87preludeA20A3
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1740/p1010052qp3.jpg

Picopop
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5319/p1010058vj6.jpg

89StockLXi/Stock89LXi
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9483/p1010059fa4.jpg

Monkey
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6640/p1010078dw5.jpg

[Pico]

I can swap an alternator in 5 minutes in pure darkness now. I've done it about 6 times.
x2
all you need are 12mm, 14mm and 10mm sockets/wrenches\
14mm socket for the lower mounting bolt

[Strahan]

Sweet, sounds good. Thanks guys, appreciate it!

[dalinxz]

I can swap an alternator in 5 minutes in pure darkness now. I've done it about 6 times. Fucking autozone alternators suck!

I hope you mean on a FI because if you can do it on a carb next time I'm driving to Idaho for you to do it for me:)

[2ndGenGuy]

I can do it on a carb in 20 minutes. I've dropped the driver's side axle enough times, I could do it in my sleep. Washington is right next to Idaho, so bring it on over. :lol:

[derolph]

I am trying to replace my alternator but am having some difficulty. I removed the airbox assembly. I have removed the top bolt, the one on the tension adjuster and removed the 9MM nut that holds wiring harness to the side of the alternator. I see the green electrical plug that connects to the side of the alternator. What is the correct technique for getting it loose from the alternator? Do I squeeze/press the tab on top and try to pull outward on the plug while pressing the tab down? Or, do I need to stick a screwdriver into the tab and pry upward to make it release? If the plug seems unwilling to separate, what tools or techniques can be used to get it out? Should I get it disconnected before dropping the alternator out of the bottom bracket holding it?

[Oldblueaccord]

I am trying to replace my alternator but am having some difficulty. I removed the airbox assembly. I have removed the top bolt, the one on the tension adjuster and removed the 9MM nut that holds wiring harness to the side of the alternator. I see the green electrical plug that connects to the side of the alternator. What is the correct technique for getting it loose from the alternator? Do I squeeze/press the tab on top and try to pull outward on the plug while pressing the tab down? Or, do I need to stick a screwdriver into the tab and pry upward to make it release? If the plug seems unwilling to separate, what tools or techniques can be used to get it out? Should I get it disconnected before dropping the alternator out of the bottom bracket holding it?


I think I have changed 2 so im gonna guess squeeze on that one.

With the battery unhooked! I would not have a problem completely unbolting it to get it turned around to look at better. get the big wire off first too and give it a good look over for heat damage as well.

[derolph]

Well, I got the old one off and I maneuvered the new one down into its space and connected the wires but I cannot wrestle the bottom bolt mount into the bracket on the engine. I can get it barely started fitting into bracket but it's just too snug fitting to get it into the bracket to the point that I can insert the bolt all the way through. I am thinking of taking a dremel with a grinding attachment and grinding the surface of the passenger side of the lower bolt mount of the alternator so that I can get it into the slot without trying to use brute force to get it in there. I simply cannot force it into place, so I need some solution such as the grinding idea.

[Shane86]

Lubricate the brackets sometimes it's best to get the bottom bolt in before you put the wires on. Rotate the alternator up and down sometimes it falls into place a little farther than the hole. If it does that correct it with a flat head screwdriver in between the bracket and alternator

[derolph]

I did not try lubrication because, according to ERICTHECARGUY, in one of his YouTube videos (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM4LbGDCZn0 , starting @ 4min 30 sec, i.e. 4:30), the alternator actually uses the mount for electrical grounding. I was not sure what would be the best type of lubricant to use, and I had doubts that I'd be able to get the alternator into position in the bracket even it I did put some lubricant on the bracket. And, after watching the aforementioned video, I decided the ultimate solution would be to expand the space between the bolt holes on the bracket. To see this point addressed in the video, go to 4:50 in the video and watch how he uses a hammer to drive the "sleeves" outward a bit to make more space between bolt holes and make inserting the new alternator easier.

The sleeves on the Chevy Tahoo being worked on in the video has two bottom bolts and the sleeves appear to be flange type sleeves, whereas our Accords have a solid sleeve. Nevertheless, I figured the same technique should work with the alternator bracket on my Accord. But, I saw no way to effectively use a hammer in the cramped space around the alternator. So, I devised another method of forcing that sleeve outward.

Now, I'll explain my technique. I went to the local hardware store and got a fully threaded bolt the same diameter and length as the actual bolt for the alternator; I also bought two nuts for that bolt. Then, I inserted the bolt through the left side of the bracket only and put both nuts on it. I threaded the nuts on far enough to get the bolt all the way through the bracket and I put a small Vice Grip on the bolt head. [Note: You might want to use one or two washers along with the nuts but I think they are optional.] Then, with a 9/16" wrench, I tightened one nut against the back side of the bracket. Then, I threaded the other nut against the sleeve and forced it outward a bit. I removed the bolt and then was able to get the alternator into position with no resistance on the bottom bolt area. The attached photos shows the procedure.