86 LX-i sputters then stalls when slowing/stopping

[Sh4d0w]

k, i have a 86 LX-i with 320,000 mi on it
have replaced the EGR
have rebuilt engine
have installed remanufactured tranny....
now, when I go to slow down, it sputters and pops, and when i come to a complete stop, or just before, it dies. I have replaced the spark plugs + wires.
Just after replacing the plugs, the car ran great, for about 5 minutes. :wtf:
also, there is no flashing light on the ECU
This car is getting really expencive, so I'd appreciate any help with what I might look at next. Thanks in advance

[russiankid]

The pop sounds like your timing. Check your timing.

[Sh4d0w]

The pop sounds like your timing. Check your timing.

k, ill do that in the morning after work - any other suggestions?

[LX-incredible]

What about the cap and rotor?

[Blazin]

I just had a similar problem and after 2 days at the garage, (had them prety stumped) so they dumped the gas and put new stuff in, ran like a dream.
Never know give it a shot.
Also they said theres so much rust and crap at the bottom of the tank to keep it above 1/4 so it doesnt pick up the crap.
The one and only thing wrong with Canada....rust rust rust.:bandance:

[Sh4d0w]

What about the cap and rotor?

i'll have them checked tomarow as well - ty




I just had a similar problem and after 2 days at the garage, (had them prety stumped) so they dumped the gas and put new stuff in, ran like a dream.
Never know give it a shot.
Also they said theres so much rust and crap at the bottom of the tank to keep it above 1/4 so it doesnt pick up the crap.
The one and only thing wrong with Canada....rust rust rust.:bandance:


hmm, i use premium unleaded and never let it get below half, because of that same concern. I used to live in Bellingham, about 45 minutes south of you, so i fully understand what you're saying about rust.

[MessyHonda]

yeah check the timing also see if the injectors are working good. might try to seafoam them.

[Sh4d0w]

yeah check the timing also see if the injectors are working good. might try to seafoam them.
well, its kind of a mute point now....

I dont know what seafoam is...

I was checking the cap and roter, and i thought I'd regap the plugs as the article on plugs suggested - to .035 since I have a cold air short ram. I had just installed new NGK plugs yesterday, and had them at .042. Miraculasly, they where the ones that I needed - 2 heat levals or whatever below OE.

well, I'm preaty sure I stripped the last hole in the cylander head after I gapped them. THe plug just spins in the hole, and i looked in there with a light, and i can see .. it looks stripped. FUCK!

so - the new question is.. am I completely as fucked as i think i am? or is there still hope?

[skycam_313]

well, its kind of a mute point now....
I dont know what seafoam is...
I was checking the cap and roter, and i thought I'd regap the plugs as the article on plugs suggested - to .035 since I have a cold air short ram. I had just installed new NGK plugs yesterday, and had them at .042. Miraculasly, they where the ones that I needed - 2 heat levals or whatever below OE.
well, I'm preaty sure I stripped the last hole in the cylander head after I gapped them. THe plug just spins in the hole, and i looked in there with a light, and i can see .. it looks stripped. FUCK!
so - the new question is.. am I completely as fucked as i think i am? or is there still hope?
its ok man.... u can still be saved.
This'll save your ass... (http://www.timesert.com/html/sparkplug.html)

[88Accord-DX]

Local parts store has heli-coil set with tap for plug holes.

[skycam_313]

i would only trust time serts myself.... heli coils can come out.

[88Accord-DX]

It's not so much a heli-coil, it's a spark plug insert you have to ask for. They are self locking, & transfer heat. That time sert is the same thing. Some plug inserts need tapered edges & different lengths. The down side is keeping metal shaving out the cylinders without pulling the head off.

[AccordB20A]

man i got frightened reading this imagine if a dohc stripped a plug thread that wood be a definate take the head off but since you have a 20 its nt as bad, think yourself lucky dude lol. keeeeping shit out of the cylinders wd be the main concernn

[skycam_313]

It's not so much a heli-coil, it's a spark plug insert you have to ask for. They are self locking, & transfer heat. That time sert is the same thing. Some plug inserts need tapered edges & different lengths.
ok... makes more sense


The down side is keeping metal shaving out the cylinders without pulling the head off.

X a big gigantic 2

[Sh4d0w]

It's not so much a heli-coil, it's a spark plug insert you have to ask for. They are self locking, & transfer heat. That time sert is the same thing. Some plug inserts need tapered edges & different lengths. The down side is keeping metal shaving out the cylinders without pulling the head off.

keeping the shavings out of the cylinders... I read somewhere on here you can use grease to do this. Is that accurate? Or am I just going to be causing myself more problems by doing this?

Is there a major difference in price and reliability between the time sert and the heli-coil spark plug inserts?

[88Accord-DX]

I never tried time serts, so not sure on reliability. I can tell you they are basically the same thing your going to get at Napa. I have heard on this site about using grease/petroleum jelly to catch the shaving on the end of the tap. I haven't expriemented with it. If you do try that, at least blow the cylinders out as good as you can with a blow gun down in the cylinders. (if it's possible)

[Sh4d0w]

I never tried time serts, so not sure on reliability. I can tell you they are basically the same thing your going to get at Napa. I have heard on this site about using grease/petroleum jelly to catch the shaving on the end of the tap. I haven't expriemented with it. If you do try that, at least blow the cylinders out as good as you can with a blow gun down in the cylinders. (if it's possible)
well, i dont have a blow gun, but i have a shop vac with a number of smaller attachments - ill be sure to vac it as best as possible, then blow it out afterword. Thanks for all your help, ill be doin this on saturday - will post how it goes... as well as if a new distributor and roter help the original stuttering / stalling problem. I have a sneaking suspician from what ive read here that it may be a "choke" problem. My old plugs whre very black at the end, and my exhaust is black as well - which tells me the fuel is not being burned all the way. The guy at Schucks concured.

since its fuel injected, i realize theres no regular choke, but ill be researching exactly how it works on this car.

any thoughts?

[Sh4d0w]

well, i dont have a blow gun, but i have a shop vac with a number of smaller attachments - ill be sure to vac it as best as possible, then blow it out afterword. Thanks for all your help, ill be doin this on saturday - will post how it goes... as well as if a new distributor and roter help the original stuttering / stalling problem. I have a sneaking suspician from what ive read here that it may be a "choke" problem. My old plugs whre very black at the end, and my exhaust is black as well - which tells me the fuel is not being burned all the way. The guy at Schucks concured.

since its fuel injected, i realize theres no regular choke, but ill be researching exactly how it works on this car.

any thoughts?
well, I used a can of dust-all to blow out the shavings as I used a thread-cutter to re-thread the stripped hole. I replaced the cap and roter, both where slightly corroded, the cap most of all, ad it as improved a bit. Now, insted of having to keep my foot on the gas at every stop light, i just have to goose it once in a while to kee it above the point of dying. Long story short, its BETTER but not fixed.

happy 4th of july everyone - hope your fireworks went better then ours - we had 30 morters and a number of other ariels confiscated - 170$ total

[88Accord-DX]

Might want to test the IACV (idle air control valve) or clean it out. Maybe clean you throttle plate where it rides on the pin with some carb cleaner.

[LX-incredible]

86-87 don't have IACVs. Did all of the plugs appear to be burning rich? On fuel injected vehicles the coolant temperature sensor richens up the mixture when cold, like a choke. If you are having problems mostly when the engine is warm, I would check that.

[88Accord-DX]

86, (wasn't paying attention) I think them have the idle control solenoid.

[kentwat]

86-87 don't have IACVs. Did all of the plugs appear to be burning rich? On fuel injected vehicles the coolant temperature sensor richens up the mixture when cold, like a choke. If you are having problems mostly when the engine is warm, I would check that.

Finally confirmation. I have an 86 LXi I cleaned the fast Idle control valve and was looking for this IACV and no wonder I couldn't find it. It seems like different people use different names EACV IACV I was going crazy. The main problem on mine is ecu code 12 EGR. I have swapped egr with one from salvage yard and same scenario. PGM-FI will come on after a few minutes of driving. I applied vacuum to it while idling and it stalled so they "say" its good. But the idle will drop at times with air on. 279,000 miles and still not burning oil. So happy except for the pgm-fi light coming on. Every no and then blowby will come up from under the hood from spirited driving. I figured this was due to my hose is broke at the air box between valve cover. I was thinking of picking up one them high flow cats on the cheap to see if mine is getting clogged after so many miles. I'm just nervous about then having o2 sensor lights coming on. Thanks great site. Kent

[JFern]

86-87 don't have IACVs. Did all of the plugs appear to be burning rich? On fuel injected vehicles the coolant temperature sensor richens up the mixture when cold, like a choke. If you are having problems mostly when the engine is warm, I would check that.

They do, sort of, its essentially the same as a fast idle valve, mine went out and i bought a new one (it used to idle quite high, than idle low when warmed up) and it idled just fine after i replaced that (auto parts stores will list it as an idle air control valve, it is located on the intake manifold by the filter box) looks like this: http://shop.oreillyauto.com:80/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=31073&PartType=506&PTSet=A
They are controlled by a wax thats on the inside that expands a valve to let more or less air in based on coolant temp. eventually the wax disentegrates and it goes bad