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B16 ED9
09-11-2002, 10:23 PM
is the b18c type r engine worth its $5300 price tag?

2Fast_Fiero
09-11-2002, 10:39 PM
No its not, I don't know how all these people keep finding expencive ass B18 engines, but even JHP sells the B18C cheaper then that. Just search around more and you'll find it cheaper.

B16 ED9
09-11-2002, 10:55 PM
http://www.jspecauto.com/engine%20prices.html

B18C (96-00 Integra Type- R)

DOHC VTEC 4 Cylinder 16 Valve
• Hydraulic Transmission
• Redline: 8900 rpm
• Diplacement: 1797cc
• Torque: 134 lb-ft@7500
• Horse Power: 210hp@8000
• Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
• Integra-R P73 OBD-2 ECU type.
Price: $5299.00 US Dollars

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://jdmcars.com/

B18C SPEC-R DOHC


JDM Type R - Hydraulic transmission w/LSD $5500.00

*Features include, DOHC VTEC <<200>> HP. LSD trans.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://jdmhondaparts.com/

B18C JDM Integra Type-R Engine [OBD2]
• The ever-so popular 1.8l Integra-R engine
• OEM race prepped oriented engine, straight from Honda of Japan.

98 - 01
Fully Complete
PRICES START @
$5500.00
IN STOCK

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

www.jdm1.com

B18C-R Integra


DOHC VTEC 4 Cylinder 16 Valve


Transmission: Hydraulic
Year: 99-00
Diplacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
HP/Torque: 210hp@8000/134 lb-ft@7500
Redline: 8900 rpm


Status: Very Low Stock Advance Orders Only Price: $5300.00

B16 ED9
09-11-2002, 10:56 PM
so far the cheapest i've found it is 5300 for the full swap

YK86
09-11-2002, 11:26 PM
JDM ITR engines are damn expensive. There are several versions of the B18C which include JDM ITR, USDM ITR, Teg GSR, etc which is maybe why you found some B18C's for much cheaper. You might be able to find some JDM ITR engines on E-bay for about $4500 or so.

netfreak
09-11-2002, 11:36 PM
B18A 90-91 1.8 INTEGRA $650
B18B 94-95 1.8 INTEGRA $750

Those engines any good? (from jdmcars.com)

2Fast_Fiero
09-11-2002, 11:59 PM
WOW, they are expencive. But also...when did the JDM ITR B18C obtain 210hp? I thought the maximum that the B18 had stock was 195hp?

<Edit> Ohh and Jim, what would be the difference between the cheap B18C and the expencive B18C? How I see it is that, they are puting midrange performance parts on the Honda Integra Type R engines in Japan, I figure if your gonna fix it up anyways, why not get the cheap B18C since its the same and you can put your own performance parts on it. Correct me if I'm wrong. <Edit>

night
09-12-2002, 04:04 PM
B18C1 : GSR

B18C5 : R - higher compression, diff cams, diff intake and exhaust manifold, bigger TB, better gearing, mild factory port n polish,

pric
09-12-2002, 04:51 PM
WOW, they are expencive. But also...when did the JDM ITR B18C obtain 210hp? I thought the maximum that the B18 had stock was 195hp?

USDM B18C5 195hp.
JDM B18C5 210hp.

89AccordNate
09-13-2002, 07:47 AM
A b18c5 motor swap into a 3rd gen I would say would easily cost $7,000 whenever you put the installation costs, mounts, wiring, etc. into account..

Just isnt worth it!

Nate.

toastyghost
09-13-2002, 07:57 AM
If you're going that hardcore, do a CR-VTEC with an ITR head... same high flow on top, more torque on bottom. :)

toastyghost
09-13-2002, 07:57 AM
Man I just realized, that sounded like some straight-up poorly translated Indian kamasutra shit...

shepherd79
09-13-2002, 08:45 AM
why would some one want B18C? so what it makes 210 hp.
for the price you will pay for that engine you can get B16A and Vortech supercharger and still beat B18C by 60Hp.

DarknessRS
09-13-2002, 01:41 PM
Well, if you have the time and money then go for it. The US GSR engine is a bit easier and cheaper though. Because of CA law (and probably other state laws) you can't legally use the C5 engine in any car, and the GSR engines are much easier to come by.

damackz
09-13-2002, 11:07 PM
GO with a B18C1 if ur going with forced induction later due to the lower compression then in the b18c5 the thing about the b18c5 is that it is really an agressive well built engine that can take alot of punishment. I think i saw the b18c5 for around 4500 i will post up the link if i find it...........but yeah TURBO b18c1 like daymn that thing would fly!!!!!

2Fast_Fiero
09-13-2002, 11:40 PM
7grand my ass. lol. Engine mounts are 150 bucks right, engine costs about 5grand lets say at tops. Make sure in your order, you make sure they send you the right ECU and then your all done, it will only cost you that much if you have an engine shop put it in for you. Ohh yea dude, You CANNOT, ABSOLUTELY CANNOT compare a B16 Engine with a Vortex Supercharger to a BONE STOCK B18. Its not fair in any way. Only way you can compare a B16 engine with a Vortex Supercharger is against a B18 engine with a Vortex Supercharger!

2Fast_Fiero
09-13-2002, 11:48 PM
B18B 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 130hp@6000rpm 121tq@5000rpm '90-'91 Integra GS (USA)
B18B1 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 140hp@6300rpm 121tq@5200rpm '92-'93 Integra GS (USA)
B18B1 1.8 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1834 142hp@6300rpm 127tq@5200rpm '94-'00 Integra RS/LS/GS (USA)
B18C 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 178hp@7600rpm 129@6200rpm '95-'97 Integra SiR (JDM)
B18C1 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 170hp@7600rpm 128tq@6200rpm '94-'01 Integra GS-R
B18C5 1.8 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1797 195hp@7800rpm 130tq@7600rpm '98-'01 Integra Type-R (JDM)
B18C6 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R
B18C7 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R

2Fast_Fiero
09-13-2002, 11:49 PM
B20A3 2.0 12V SOHC Dual Sidedraft 1955 100hp@5500rpm 107tq@4000rpm '88 - '89 Prelude
'90 Prelude S
B20A5 2.0 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1955 110hp@5500rpm 114tq@4500rpm '87 - '91 Prelude 2.0 Si
B20B 2.0 16V DOHC PGM-FI 1997 126hp@5400rpm 133tq@4300rpm '97-'98 CR-V (USA)
B20Z 2.0 16V DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1997 146hp@6400rpm 143tq@4500rpm '98-'01 CR-V (USA)
B21A1 2.1 16V DOHC PGM-FI 2056 140hp@5800rpm 135tq@3500rpm '90-'91 Prelude Si (USA)

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 12:03 AM
When I do my engine swap in the future, While I'm stock I'm not gonna race anyone in a Honda CRV "MINIVAN" lol

YK86
09-14-2002, 12:13 AM
Actually, try $500-$600 for the mounts. $150 is for 3 stock A20 mounts. Plus you need the custom axles, shift linkage, and modified harness which add another $300-$400. Now that you are ready for dropping in a B motor, then you have to think about which engine, tranny and ECU, plus get the right distributor and stuff (OBD crap). Takes quite a bit of work to get everything right. It's not like dropping in the same engine you had before.

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 12:25 AM
Umm, Yasu, JHP Does all that stuff in a package that costs about $5500. And Carrotman allready said that for most swaps you don't need a modified harness. and the engine mounts for our car cost $489.98 + Shipping, JHP's engine swap package comes with the stock mounts, so I'm sure you could sell them to some drunk foo :lol, JHP also comes with the engines ECU and with the harness with the distributer and stuff. So why would you need to do all that shit? If the Engine comes with everything to make it run ( START UP GUARENTEE ) I don't see why you would need to do that, they Guarentee that thier packages when you buy them, the engine will start up as is, they come with everything, they aren't just a block. and I think I've repeated myself in many ways in this post.

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 12:33 AM
They do not have a bolt in guarentee, but they do have a start up guarentee, and that is that when you get the engine, if you can mount it to anything temp. and wire it up right, it will start up.

<EDIT> But in my case I think I would want a diff ECU because Carrotman told me the one they will give me cannot be chiped, and that is something I would wanna do.

YK86
09-14-2002, 01:29 AM
It's not that simple. The harness that comes with the engine is probably the stock harness for that engine. Do you think the harness for that engine is going to be the exact same as the A20 harness (things like pin location for each sensor, the numer of pins, etc). Even the 3rd gen B20A requires a bit of modification to the harness to work in our cars. Place Racing makes the harness that is already modified correctly for you so it will plug into the 3rd gen harness with each wire going to the correct pin in the ECU. And about the start up warranty, did you read the part where it says "IF everything is plugged in, wired up, and working correctly"??? Just because they give you a distributor and all the other things that made it start in the original car it came from, doesn't mean it will start and run properly in your car. But then again, what the hell do I know.........

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 01:52 AM
Why would you need to modify a harness for an engine to run with that exact engines ECU? Isn't the B18's Engine Harness made for the ECU that is put in the car that held the B18? Or did they change that? I'm not talking about using our 3rd gen accord ECU's. JHP gives you in the package EVERYTHING you need to start the engine, Engine, everything that bolts onto it, Engine Wireing Harness, and ECU that goes to that engine, All the linkage, Transmission and axles. and thier warentee is for starting the engine, so they tell you that they WARENTEE the engine to start up, when you get the engine and wire it up right and mount it wherever you want, it is supposed to start up, that don't mean your gonna go anywheres, you could have goten the linkage and everything to work for the clutch, and gas peddle perfectly, but you'll have to probably find the right axles, unless the ones off the engine your buying it from has the right size axles. Now I don't know what company your lookin at, I found a few that ONLY sell a long block for the same price. but JHP actualy guarentees that when you get the engine and wire it up, it WILL start and run. But anyways. I'm gonna talk with OSS about all what he had to do, if he remembers lol. I just think the key goal is to get the engine in your posession and know that it runs first before you put it in your car, ya could do what my dad would most likely do, hang the engine with the engine mounts on it and dig holes in the ground for posts, then mount the engine to the posts LMAO. I dunno about you but when I get ready to do an engine swap, I'm gonna have copy machines and digi cams waiting. I'm going to take every bit of evidence I can, I'm gonna get the info of the driver of the truck that delivered it to me, licence plate number, copany that shiped it to me directly, recepits, pictures of the engine before I unwrap it, pictures of the engine after I unwrap it, and I will make a detailed story in Microsoft Word with pictures about EVERY SINGLE move I make when wireing this engine before I start it, and what happens when I try and start it, if nothing works, the next morning I'm calling a layer and gettin one ready, then I'm gonna email the company I bought it from or call them and tell them the story with all my evidence and MAKE THEM tell me why it didn't work...but thats just me :P....I'm gonna look more into what your sayin Yasu, thx!

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 01:53 AM
Ohh and Yasu, I bet you know alot, Your a realy big help on TONS of stuff, and your realy cool to talk to, Glad I know ya!

YK86
09-14-2002, 02:33 AM
Thanks for the compliment. All I am saying is it's not always as easy as it seems. I just saw your 1st post on this page (pg 2) and you made it sound like everythng is cheap and easy (Place Racing mounts are not $150). It really sounded like you were going to take the stock harness that came with the new engine (which is all it usualy comes with), plug it into the A20 harness that goes from the engine bay to ECU, and then plug in the new ECU. If that is what you meant, here is what I was trying to say:say there is a wire for the O2 sensor from the new engine which does coincidentally plug into the right pin location of the existing A20 engine bay to ECU harness. But that doesn't mean the wire will go to the right pin for the O2 sensor in the new ECU. Some ECU's have different pin locations for certain sensors compared to other ECU's. This is where you have to do your studying if you are going to do this swap without using a premodified engine harness like the one from Place Racing. But reading what you said afterwards, if this engine swap kit comes with everything you need to fit the B motor in a 3rd gen properly, then you don't have to worry about guessing and custom work since it's all been done for you. Did that make alittle more sense?? (It's 3:30am and I need sleep......)

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 01:48 PM
LOL, thats what I said! Its too damn late lol. But, the JHP COMPLETE ENGINE KIT comes with (Say your going to get a B18): B18 Engine W/ All bolt ons, B18 ECU, B18 Engine Harness, B18 Axles, Transmission (LSD Optional Depending On Package), All the belts and AC Pump, Power Steering Unit, Altinator. They guarentee that when you get the engine in your posession, you can bolt it onto whatever the hell you want, wire it up with everything they give you and the engine will start and run. But I do see where your comming from, thats why I am going to take all those pictures and make copies of everything from the second I start to give info about my address and my billing info so that if the engine don't start up and run, I can have PLENTY of leverage over them when I ask them for help. Layers give great Leverage! And the Place Racing Engine mounts for the B Series engine and our car will cost you $489.99+shipping, I figured the engine will cost 5grand maximum (Worst Case Senerio) I won't pay more then that for the engine package. and since it costs soo damn much to do the engine swap...I figure that doing an engine swap will gain you soo much power that there is no reason to supe it up just yet, so I'm gonna leave it stock for a few months so I can recover myself from that.

89AccordNate
09-14-2002, 03:43 PM
MSI: You have a lot more to learn then I think you know. Yes the company may have a start up guarantee but that means nothing. They ship the engine knowing that it will run IF you have the right wiring and harness for your application. They dont send you mounts to mount into your 3rd gen, the mounts on the motor are for the GSR swap. Of course if you were swapping into a GSR the motor is going to start up fine.

The axles wont be the same for the 3rd gen. They are either shorter or longer and will not bolt up. Once again they are shipped with the GSR axles.

If your planning on doing a swap, you need to learn a lot more then just thinking they are going to sell you a motor that you can strap into your car.

Nate.

2Fast_Fiero
09-14-2002, 04:55 PM
How on earth can you figure that nate? when I have been saying the EXACT thing you just did??? I'm confused now. JHP Engine Packages make it to where when you recive the engine, you can put in anything you like and it will run, Hell I'll bolt the B18 engine on my go cart, and it will start. thats what I mean, I also said that yes you will most likely have to get diff axles. So why are you acting like I didn't say that? Just because I put the B18 engine in my go cart dont mean it wont start up, they send you every single thing from the engine compartment and the lil black box that is under the passenger seat with the cable that connects to it. That is made to start up. So add some way to mount it without it JUMPING all over the fucking place and add a 12 volt car battery and the engine will start and run, that dont mean its gonna go anywheres, but it will atleast run. They make it so that you dont have to do any custom work for the Integra, the only thing that wont work is the stock engine/trany mounts that are made for the Integra, and the axles, and maybe some of the linkage, but the engine will run, you find a way to bolt that sucker into your 3G just like what OSS did and that other guy (Sorry but I forgot your name) and it will run, now add the right linkage to your shifter, gas peddle, and clutch peddle. and find the right axles that will fit your car and the engine, and there you go, the engine runs, and now it moves the car. I'm not stupid as you said in so many words. I can read and it says that its a DIRECT BOLT IN for a Acura integra and Honda Civic bla bla bla, DUH thats why PRi makes the B series engine mounts (Not Including B20) for our 3rd Gen Accords, they also make the engine harness for the people that dont get the ECU that goes to the wire harness that goes to the B18 engine. Now I do see where your comming from because I have found some places that sell the B18 for like 4600, lol but its just a fucking long block, no intake manifold, no distributer, no exaust manifold...NO NOTHING just the block and the head, thats bull shit and a rip off. if you buy something like that your stupid. I'm just saying that the whole entire engine system that makes the engine run and stay running and moving for the integra, is in that package. So the only things that should be swaped is the engine mounts to mount it corectly (lol hell to mount it period), Shift and Throtle Linkage, and the Axles. I know that you guys are great at that because you all have amazed me on how you can find this or this for this one GREAT price. And there was also this article for doing an engine swap and I'm practicly coping it and its words, but puting it in my own. So what I'm saying is, it dont mater if you have a go cart, or a 3G, or a GSR integra, or even a jet plane for that mater, the engine is made to 'start up'. Dumb Fuck JHP wont return my email messeges, so I'm gonna call them and ask them this same question and get on thier ass for not returning my email. Thats not right for owning a buisness and can't even help your customers. If I seemed kinda pissy in this messege, your right, I am...My pc just crashed and wont start up now when I was writing the other messege. So I'm about to shoot it! Sorry.

YK86
09-14-2002, 06:37 PM
The start up warranty DOES NOT guarantee they will give you everything you need to start it in whatever car you put it in. It's basically implying that the engine itself is in good working order and will run when "installed properly" (<-----this is up to the buyer to take care of and not the seller). That is basically the same warranty you get from the wrecker (will not burn oil, no broken parts internally, etc).

B16 ED9
09-16-2002, 12:15 AM
wow, nice discussion. how 'bout we just talk about the engine again. the reason i'd get the b18c5 is because it has a lot of aftermarket support in the NA tuning department. i wouldnt turbo or supercharge the b18c5.

so what hp/tq do you guys think that the engine can hit by going NA? i dont care about the price, cause in the long run that doesnt matter too much.

DarknessRS
09-16-2002, 03:09 AM
Originally posted by MSIAccord_LXi
B18C6 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R
B18C7 1.8 DOHC VTEC PGM-FI 1829 ?? ?? '96 Integra Type R
I thought the C series stopped at 5, were those from the '96 Honda or Acura Integra?

pric
09-16-2002, 08:37 PM
JDM do not have numbers past the 4th digit B18C.
The B18C5 is the USDM ITR it had 195hp the JDM depending on which year from 95-up made 197hp to 210hp. The USDM 87 prelude 2.0 Si had the A20A3 with 110hp in 88 they went to the B20A5 with 135hp @ 5800 & 125ft-lbs. @ 4000. Just thought you might want to know.

2Fast_Fiero
09-16-2002, 09:25 PM
Thats what was in the honda engines page, I would give you guys the link, but my computer is down and I'm reinstalling XP Home on a new hard drive so I can backup my other stuff, it shows EVERY SINGLE engine honda has made. But it did not have any info for those 2 engines. and I think with the right NA Aftermarket support you could posibly get the B18C5 up to 295 Maybe, thats just my guess because I don't know what degree you can go to keep it NA. Whenever I get back on my computer I'll give you guys the link, Its somewheres in this forum but I don't remember where. I think the B20Z from the Honda CRV is AWSOME with TQ, You won't ever see me race that Mini Van LOL :LOL

Jims 86LXI HB
09-17-2002, 04:02 AM
Originally posted by Pimp88Accord
wow, nice discussion. how 'bout we just talk about the engine again. the reason i'd get the b18c5 is because it has a lot of aftermarket support in the NA tuning department. i wouldnt turbo or supercharge the b18c5.

so what hp/tq do you guys think that the engine can hit by going NA? i dont care about the price, cause in the long run that doesnt matter too much.

The B18C5 is just to expensive, even the B18C1 is expensive

I'd think it would make more sense to look at a B18 with the Vtec swap added on, wouldn't it cost less to create your own B18C1 that way?

Ya know with all this talk of the B18C, it might not be a bad idea for those serious about it to go out and drive the car it's comming out of, 94-2000 integra GSR. That's the car I'm getting (or a 95-98 240sx s14), so I've got some test drives under my belt. The way that motor deliver's power may or may not be YOUR thing. Just like the specs show it doesn't have allot of torque, and their's not much GO below 3500rpm's. You've got to keep your foot in it, once the vtec kick's in at around 5K, all hell breaks loose till redline. And with H.I.E., it really does make a fearfull sound(I LIKE!). So if you prefer to drive without rev's, it's not the motor for you. And supercharging the motor does not change that, it just more of the same, depending on boost level.

2Fast_Fiero
09-17-2002, 11:37 PM
Jim, not that I'm changing my mind about anything, but if you was able to, which engine would you prefer? Cause I mainly want TQ, and I know that the B18 dont deliver much of that, and I'll hardly ever go past 4500rpm, unless I'm in a major race. and I know the B20Z has some killer TQ on it, but not what I was hoping.

2Fast_Fiero
09-17-2002, 11:47 PM
Another thing, How come a beast like the b18C5 only comes with 180-210hp and such low tq? I wish companies would stop thinking about Horsepower, I dont think its that great, I mean TQ is what its mainly all about, not just in racing, but like gettin on a highway, you need good torque, starting at a stop light when it turns green, saving your ass when a buss or somethin gets close to hittin you. I think it should be reversed. the Hp should be low and the TQ sould be the main thing!

Jims 86LXI HB
09-18-2002, 04:58 AM
Originally posted by MSIAccord_LXi
Another thing, How come a beast like the b18C5 only comes with 180-210hp and such low tq? I wish companies would stop thinking about Horsepower, I dont think its that great, I mean TQ is what its mainly all about, not just in racing, but like gettin on a highway, you need good torque, starting at a stop light when it turns green, saving your ass when a buss or somethin gets close to hittin you. I think it should be reversed. the Hp should be low and the TQ sould be the main thing!

Ok, when researching engine specs when you find one's that have allot more hp vs. torque, you will always have those figures high up on the rpm scale. Meaning they will deliver acceleration in the upper rpm range and allot less below that. So the one that should deliver the best acceleration below their torque peak's should be the one with the highest raw torque numbers. The H22/23A (no substitute for displacement. What you really need to do is find a prelude that has the motor and drive it. See if with the way you drive, hardly above 4700rpm's, if it delivers what you exspect for your $6k investment. You will find that below 4700rpm's it's ok, above that is where the fund raising party begin's that starts to pay for your little adventure:) All these motor's you've mentioned for a sway, like to be rev'd to deliver performance, well rev'd allot that is;)

P.S. In test driving 3 teg gsr (B18c1), I've concluded that if it had anyless torque below 4K, I flat out would not buy one. It barely has enough. But the kick it dishes out when the intake switches over and when the vtec kick's in shortly their after does really satisfy. Which means between 5200rpm's and redline 8000rpms.

night
09-18-2002, 04:45 PM
hp is torque :rolleyes:

Jims 86LXI HB
09-18-2002, 04:59 PM
Originally posted by night
hp is torque :rolleyes:



Torque is hp:lol

I don't purchase hp numbers as much as I purchase torque numbers. Meaning I'm not gleefull over the B18c1 in those terms.
Bar graphs are very telling and match up to actual driving experience.

toastyghost
09-18-2002, 10:19 PM
All I gotta say on this is my bro has a Jetta TDI and it rapes just about any ricer I've seen off the line. That thing has only 90 hp but its tq conv ratio is sick, 155 ft-lbs stock!

AZmike
09-18-2002, 11:19 PM
All you need is the torque curve.
It tells you everything. It shows exactly when the engine pulls and how much. You can get HP at any rpm if you do a little math.

Jims 86LXI HB
09-18-2002, 11:55 PM
Originally posted by 89LXi4dr
All you need is the torque curve.
It tells you everything. It shows exactly when the engine pulls and how much. You can get HP at any rpm if you do a little math.

That exactly what I'm talking about:bow: :D

DarknessRS
09-19-2002, 02:08 AM
Originally posted by night
hp is torque :rolleyes:


Originally posted by Jims 86LXI HB
Torque is hp:lol

Exactly !
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/dogpile.gif
Horsepower is just a figure that is derived from Torque.

(torque x RPM) / 5252 = horsepower

This is why every dynomometer graph you'll ever see has the HP and Torque crossing @ 5252 RPMs.

3rd GEN
09-19-2002, 08:23 AM
I think it should be reversed. the Hp should be low and the TQ sould be the main thing!

yup.. just like my a20a...

135lbs torque
98 HP

thats stock of course..haha
i think i am running about 105HP now...

but still...ya.. got more tq then HP

2Fast_Fiero
09-19-2002, 12:41 PM
The A20A1 is running 135lbs of tq? :O:O:O

B16 ED9
09-19-2002, 02:13 PM
wow, i'm surprised that one of my threads have acutally gotten this long.

but anyh00 i'm goin with the itr engine. since my local shop can get the whole front clip of the itr including engine and all for $3500.

so, anyways, continue on with the conversation :D

3rd GEN
09-20-2002, 09:29 AM
The A20A1 is running 135lbs of tq? :O:O:O

yup...
thats what they have stock..
135lbs tq
carbed 98HP EFI 122HP

YK86
09-20-2002, 11:20 AM
It's actually about 110 ft-lbs for the carbed. The EFI's had about 115 ft-lbs for the 86-87 and about 120 ft-lbs for the 88-89.

DarknessRS
09-20-2002, 08:48 PM
Originally posted by YK86
It's actually about 110 ft-lbs for the carbed. The EFI's had about 115 ft-lbs for the 86-87 and about 120 ft-lbs for the 88-89.

Even that figure is kinda inflated. Check out the dyno for Openloop's 89 LX-i:

http://openloopmotorsports.com/dyno2.jpg

night
09-21-2002, 11:19 AM
dyno's are to the wheels. 117 to the wheel is a chunk more than 122 to the fly.

DarknessRS
09-21-2002, 08:21 PM
I know dynos are to the wheel. Though, I always thought those manufacturer's figures were HP & Torque from the wheels.