Manual Transmission fluid

[leem]

Anyone know where the tranny fluid goes on the a20a1 5spd, and what kind is recommended

[Pico]

you can use 10/30 oil or go to Honda and get some Honda MTF, from what I've read here on the forum dont use synthetic oil.
Here's a link to the Factory Manual
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual/62se300.pdf

[leem]

aight bro, thanx alot!! This car is killing me!

[nskforlife]

what about that gearmesh stuff...
heard it helps out with the synchros grinding...
just me .02

[MessyHonda]

i just went to honda and picked up some honda Manual tranny fluid...they have a new formula so the syncromech is not really necessary...plus thoes things cost like 11 bucks a quart....and the honda one is like 3 bucks a quart. i would do a flush...so take out the one one and put some new honda fluid then drive it around in all gears for like a week and then do a fluid change. it helped me with my tranny but i still need a rebuilt.

[Pico]

what about that gearmesh stuff...
heard it helps out with the synchros grinding...
just me .02
Syncromesh fluid is supposed to be good, there are few on the board using it and it's helped with the grinding problems.
I'm switching over wen I get the chance since I have a little grinding problem also. But then again it might just be my driving :(

[leem]

still unable to pinpoint where to pour the fluid.

[Legend_master]

still unable to pinpoint where to pour the fluid.


Remove the speed sensor (the item that has the speedo cable plugged into it) use a funnel and poor directly into that hole.

[g.frost]

On the transmission, passenger side, just above and behind the axle is a large bolt. This is the fill hole for manual transmission. You will need a large wrench (should be 6 sided) to open it up. Fill until the fluid starts to run out.
If you want to get a bit extra in there, jack up the passenger side front to tilt the car a bit to give 5th gear extra lube. I've been using Redline MTL in all Hondas for many years with excellent results, shifting, no leaks and no rebuilds or problems of any kind. If you use 10W30 motor oil it should be older SF/SG grades as newer formulas (SL/SM) do not have proper add pack for transmission use. Honda MTF works well too.

[AccordB20A]

new motor oil of any type does me fine. no whineing no missed gears no crunching all good...

[Strugglebucket]

Remove the speed sensor (the item that has the speedo cable plugged into it) use a funnel and poor directly into that hole.
if you do that, when you put it back on make sure the sensor is ALL the way down before you tighten the bolt. it's easy to break the bracket off tightening the bolt if it's not popped all the way down.

[AccordEpicenter]

i dont like using 10w30 it seems to make the tranny notchy after a few thouand miles so i would reccomend honda MTF. If you have a grind or prefer the smoothest shifting available use GM syncromesh Friction modified (not the non fm stuff) it is hands down tops. Never use a full synthetic in a gearbox, its too slick and doesnt like to stick to the gears like dino oil or a blend will.

[leem]

Ok Im gonna hop right on it, Thanx, damn you guys know your sh** when it comes to these little 3g beast. lol!

[leem]

Could not having any tranny fluid be the reason I had so much vibration when trying to take off? I know my clutch and flywheel are practically new, 4-5 months old, whith no hard driving, just daily. Its like as soon as I put the new clutch cable on yesterday, it started to do this

[g.frost]

What you describe sounds like a clutch problem to me, but it's always a good idea to have some good fluid in the transmission anyway. If your clutch/cable was way out of adjustment and not fully engaging or dis-engaging, you may have damaged it, burned it.

[leem]

like if the car sits it moves and works but vibrates like crazy, then just gives out after like 5min

[MessyHonda]

when was the last time you checked your mounts?

[leem]

just checked mounts, mounts are good, something with the clutch or tranny,maybe i need to check the slave cylinder, after it is warmed up the clutch stops working.

[AccordEpicenter]

no slave cyl kid this had a clutch cable. You prolly need to just adjust the clutch cable tension

[leem]

Im hoping its the cable, I just have to learn how to adjust it correctly

[g.frost]

I'd say just use the search and you will find it on this site.... but I've tried the search for the last couple days and it's not working....

The Cable should be adjusted so that there is some free-play at the top so you don't ride on the release bearing all the time. Maybe about 3/4 to 1 inch at the pedal before it starts to release the clutch. Also you want to be sure the clutch fully dis-engages at the floor. Coming up from the floor maybe an inch or so before it starts to engage. As long as these two issues are met both hot and cold you can adjust to how you like it. Just so it fully dis-engages at the floor and it fully engages without riding on the release bearing when at the top.

[leem]

ok cool

[Oldblueaccord]

Can you get it into 1st idling? im wondering if the clutch is hanging a little and the gear is grinding. Get the cable adjusted. Make sure the clutch doesnt slip and you can shift OK. test it in fourth just off idle the car should dog out not slip the clutch.


wp

[leem]

Adjusted the cable, got it working, way better, but just a lil sqeuak on take offs in 1st. Thanx so much, now i gotta to get it tuned so it idles when warmed up, and starts when its cold, probably choke not working correctly.

[leem]

its definitely a mount, most likely the tranny mount, cuz if i tap the gas in 2nd at like 30mph, it jerks and sqeaks, also when i turn the car off.