Where to get a 38/38 Weber from?

[Bad Bunny]

Hello,

I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.

From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?

The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback

Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice

This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?

The car is an 87 Accord LX.

Thanks

[ghettogeddy]

Hello,
I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.
From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?
The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback
Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice
This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?
The car is an 87 Accord LX.
Thanks
springs shoud be fine
not sure on the fuel pump
id say stick with 2 inch thats what im gona go with but there prolly isent a dif

[2ndGenGuy]

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp

[DDRaptor]

:jaw: geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.

[2ndGenGuy]

:jaw: geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.


$700 isn't a bad price. Look up the 45 or 48 DCOE's. They usually go for $1000-1200

[Bad Bunny]

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberpartscarb.asp

Will this bolt right up to the head?

[A20A1]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4223

the 38 needs the same adapter plate as the 32/36, so you can buy a 32/36 kit and ask if they can substitute the 38 instead.

The throttle plate on the 38 could be bigger than the opening in the adapter plates so you can easily take a file and make the opening bigger.


:jaw: geez $700 for a dual DCOE's Damn my dream setup just took a .45 to the chest.

Ebay is your friend. you can fin sets for 300$ - $600 if you're lucky. Also try Mikuni sidedrafts since they are simmilar.

[cygnus x-1]

Hello,

I'm new to the forums as far as posting but have been reading for a while in order to research some engine mods for my car. My question is about trying to find a 38/38 Weber? I can find the 32/36 conversion everywhere.

From what I can tell there is no 38 conversion kit made for the car, so i will need to jet it myself. Will I need any sort of adaptor plate to hook it up to the head?


Yes. The same adapter that you use for the 32/36 is used for the 38/38. They have the same base pattern. You might also want the throttle linkage kit too. I needed it for mine but I started with a used carb and it had a different linkage on it.




The final plan is to run
32/36 or 38 Weber
272 Cam and gear
Header to a 2.25 Catback

Other questions:
a) Will the stock valve springs be fine with a 272?
b) Will i need a bigger fuel pump for the 32/36 or 38?
c) Do I need 2.25 or will 2 suffice

a) yes, although if you plan to really rev it out you might want to use the springs from a 1.8L 2g Prelude engine. They are a little stiffer and will rev higher without floating. If you keep to the stock redline though you should be fine.

b) I used the stock pump on my Prelude and it was more than sufficient. Check the fuel pressure though as Webers are fussy about that. I think 3PSI is correct.

c) I think most of the available headers all have a 2" collector, so 2" is probably sufficient. But make sure it's mandrel bent and not crush bent. If crush bent then go 2.25".




This seems to be a reasonable build for the engine to be used as a daily driver. Any comments on the planned setup?

The car is an 87 Accord LX.

Thanks

I think you will definitely like it. I would also seriously recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge. This will make tuning WAY, WAY, easier. It still wouldn't call it easy since it takes patience and lots of research if you are new to carb tuning. Read the Weber stickies here, over and over. Search the web for tuning info. Buy some books. The more you understand it, the more you will have fun with it.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've read one of those links in depth but the other is new, good reading also.

This is my first time tuning a carbed engine, thought it would be fun to try for a change.

[Bad Bunny]

I think you will definitely like it. I would also seriously recommend getting a wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge. This will make tuning WAY, WAY, easier. It still wouldn't call it easy since it takes patience and lots of research if you are new to carb tuning. Read the Weber stickies here, over and over. Search the web for tuning info. Buy some books. The more you understand it, the more you will have fun with it.

C|

An AFR gauge won't be hard to find but where would I look for a wideband O2 sensor. Will it simply be a case of removing the stock one and installing the new? I haven't had a chance to look to see if my car even has one, did the LX come with one? Please bare with me for all the dumb questions!

[2oodoor]

you are in for a lot of fun, there is nothing like the feeling of seeing the garbage can full of parts you can take off after the conversion. You will look at this car totally different after you have done that.

I think 2 inch is fine, this is a torquey motor and over doing the flow will cause you to lose low rpm torque advantange ( along with that since it is a daily driver you will find yourself having to get into it a little to get the torque started for regular type driving, if that makes sense) You will see an increase on the high rpm range but the again you are stuck to a limit with these, they simply are not designed for high rpm power like other Honda engines...although it doesnt take that to be faster.
Short version, if you open up the flow with 272 and big exhaust you gain power in the middle to the top, and lose power on the bottom.. to the point you have to give it more throttle to give it the torque it needs for basic momemtum. Not a real big concern, but just to let you know what to expect, some people dont even notice it.
You will not be able to granny drive it>>compare it to drivng a V8 car with a 5.31 or higher diff ratio...
fuel pump should be fine, although with the 38 you will need a fuel pressure regulator

[cygnus x-1]

you are in for a lot of fun, there is nothing like the feeling of seeing the garbage can full of parts you can take off after the conversion. You will look at this car totally different after you have done that.

Ain't that the truth! It's astounding how much emissions junk there is in there. And every one of those parts is one part that can fail and cause all kinds of issues. Having just two vacuum lines is a wonderful feeling.




fuel pump should be fine, although with the 38 you will need a fuel pressure regulator

I actually never measured the pressure with mine and it worked just fine without a regulator. Although I have a Prelude so it's possible the Accord runs a different pressure. I really don't know.

C|

[cygnus x-1]

An AFR gauge won't be hard to find but where would I look for a wideband O2 sensor. Will it simply be a case of removing the stock one and installing the new? I haven't had a chance to look to see if my car even has one, did the LX come with one? Please bare with me for all the dumb questions!

Yes, all these cars have O2 sensors. And for the most part you can just swap sensors. But there is some extra wiring with a wideband since it needs it's own power and you have to run a signal wire to the gauge. I used one of these:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-digital-wideband-controller-with-sensor-p-41.html

They aren't cheap but they're VERY helpful. If it's too much to swing at one time you can always add the wideband later. People were tuning carbs long before there were O2 sensors, it was just harder.

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[2oodoor]

Ain't that the truth! It's astounding how much emissions junk there is in there. And every one of those parts is one part that can fail and cause all kinds of issues. Having just two vacuum lines is a wonderful feeling.



I actually never measured the pressure with mine and it worked just fine without a regulator. Although I have a Prelude so it's possible the Accord runs a different pressure. I really don't know.

C|
I was just cleaning out stuff yesterday and ran across some of that stuff, I thought "hey I could sell it on 3geez-bay" but then it just felt so much better to dump it.!! It was not only just emissions, the confided carb controls arrrrgh

Well your's is the better experience to follow then since you had your hands all up in it:) I had no problems with it either without a regulator, but I figure Weber recommends not to go over the recommended psi although it can use cfm... flow not pressure in other words. Is it something about aeriating the fuel past the needle?

[Bad Bunny]

Looked at the O2 sensor, $200! What is the exact advantage to it in relation to carbs? Why does it make tuning them so much easier?

I am thiniking of researching more and then going with the 38. Otherwise I just know 6 months down the road I'm gonna be pulling the 32/36 out to put in a 38. (I know how addictive power is...)

[A20A1]

The o2 sensor is pretty much your final grade if you got your engine /carb tuned right or not.
It can show you where you're slacking off :)

Seriously though it will tell you if you need to jet higher or lower.

I'm not sure how valid O2 ratios are in the current ethanol gasoline mixed world but it should be close.

[2ndGenGuy]

I, personally, would still hold O2 values to be valid. A few of my friends have had their cars dyno-tuned, and the maximum horsepower / best running situation was found just a tad bit rich of the stoichiometric ideal.

[cygnus x-1]

Looked at the O2 sensor, $200! What is the exact advantage to it in relation to carbs? Why does it make tuning them so much easier?

I am thiniking of researching more and then going with the 38. Otherwise I just know 6 months down the road I'm gonna be pulling the 32/36 out to put in a 38. (I know how addictive power is...)

It's easier because you can tune directly to the air/fuel ratio instead having to tune by sound and feel, or on a dyno. It's more objective than how the car feels.

You could also just set it up like I had mine setup and it should be pretty close. :)

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[Bad Bunny]

So cygnus I will start by trying your setup:

1.45 Mains
0.55 Idle
2.10 Air Correction
0.60 Pump Jet
F50 Emulsion Tubes

This is a pretty good setup for warmer weather. For colder temps bump up the mains to 1.47 or 1.50.


Also you say your switching to FI. Do you want to sell the 38 setup?

[2ndGenGuy]

There's a 32/36 on Craigslist in Seattle with the A20A1 adapter for $100. All brand new in the box. You could at least flip it and sell that carb and get the 38 later. It would get you going for now... Check the Marketplace section.

[cygnus x-1]

If that 32/36 is really new it's a steal. Buy it.

I was wondering when someone would ask if my 38 is for sale. :lol:
For some reason I just can't let it go yet. I might put the carb on another car someday so I want to keep it around.

That jetting sounds about right. Jets are fairly cheap too so you can get some alternates to try out. And don't bother with e-tubes until you really get the hang of tuning. E-tubes are a whole different level of black magic.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

I'm trying to get a hold of that guy to buy the kit, with no luck so far. Hope it's still for sale!

[Bad Bunny]

Another question! Cam related now:

I'm looking at getting mine reground to a 272 at Colt Cams. What is the difference between a Standard and Tri Flow? Is it worth it?

[cygnus x-1]

Another question! Cam related now:

I'm looking at getting mine reground to a 272 at Colt Cams. What is the difference between a Standard and Tri Flow? Is it worth it?

The triflow cams open one of the intake valves earlier than the other. The idea is that this creates more swirling inside the cylinder and you get a better mixture, or something like that. I have a stage 1 triflow from Colt and it seems to be ok. I don't have a frame of reference because I did a complete rebuild with several mods at the same time, so I can't do a before/after comparison. I would imagine that the difference (triflow or standard) is fairly subtle, so I would just pick one and not lose any sleep over it.

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[A20A1]

I thought it was for velocity since one valve open would provide move vacuum for that valve and help pull in the air/fuel.

[MessyHonda]

I thought it was for velocity since one valve open would provide move vacuum for that valve and help pull in the air/fuel.



yup that is what i heard.

[Bad Bunny]

Oh I see, I did a bit more research. So the tri flow cam opens the valves in progression drawing fuel across the chamber at higher velocities, thereby pulling in the second charge faster which, according to the site gives the equivalent to the secondaries opening in a carb. Also, the engine gets better vacuum at idle :), less overlap, and throttle response increased. This profile is highly recommended vs a standard... ??

Cygnus: The colt site recommends the stage 1 with FI and the stage 2 for carbs, did you experience any problems running the stage 1 with carbs? I don't want the idle issues associated with a 280.

[cygnus x-1]

I thought it was for velocity since one valve open would provide move vacuum for that valve and help pull in the air/fuel.

Actually yes. That's why I said "... or something like that." :)

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[cygnus x-1]

Oh I see, I did a bit more research. So the tri flow cam opens the valves in progression drawing fuel across the chamber at higher velocities, thereby pulling in the second charge faster which, according to the site gives the equivalent to the secondaries opening in a carb. Also, the engine gets better vacuum at idle :), less overlap, and throttle response increased. This profile is highly recommended vs a standard... ??

Cygnus: The colt site recommends the stage 1 with FI and the stage 2 for carbs, did you experience any problems running the stage 1 with carbs? I don't want the idle issues associated with a 280.

Yeah, idle. For whatever reason I've never been able to run the idle much below 1000 RPM or so, even when it was still stock. It just always seemed really grumpy with the idle set low. But to answer the question, no. The idle is smooth and not lopey like higher duration cams. The vacuum will be lower than stock but not hugely so. I was getting like 20-21in. at 1000RPM. Stage 1 is fine for carb or FI. The reason they don't recommend FI with the bigger cams is because the vacuum is too low and the computer gets confused. If you have some sort of aftermarket engine management you can tune it to compensate to an extent. But for really radical cams you have to use a fuel management scheme that's based on throttle position instead of vacuum.

Now I will say, that it was actually possible to get the engine to idle really low with the Weber, down around 500RPM or so. But it wouldn't be remotely driveable that way. I the idle set at 1000RPM with all accessories off. That way it wouldn't drop too low when all the lights were turned on. Remember that you don't have an idle compensation valve with the Weber setup.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

Cygnus:
You should sell me your carb setup: the 38, adapter plate, air filter etc. I mean, it's just going to waste sitting around doing nothing. Come one!! I'll even give you $350 for it!

[cygnus x-1]

Cygnus:
You should sell me your carb setup: the 38, adapter plate, air filter etc. I mean, it's just going to waste sitting around doing nothing. Come one!! I'll even give you $350 for it!

Let me think about it.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

Okay but think fast! Otherwise I have a new one lined up that I will buy tomorrow.

Cheers.

[A20A1]

low idle with large ovelap cam = lots of fuel and timing.

large overlap cam with trick vaccum reservoir = more stable vacuum
lighter springs on vaccum diaphragms = less vaccum needed to operate them
Vaccum valves that run accessories off of exhaust vaccum = no need to worry about hooking up accessories to intake manifold vaccum.
They also have mechanical and electric vacuum pumps.

I had a medium or large cam and I would get 10 inches to 12 inches. @ 1000 rpm. But idle would fluctuate sometimes down to 800. once the exhaust and engine warms up it ran really smooth.

[cygnus x-1]

I can't do it. Can't sell it yet. I'm curious though, roughly how much is the new one? Have you looked on ebay at all?

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[Bad Bunny]

Yeah, nothing on ebay right now and I'm eager. I'm going to be paying 479 (before tax, shipping, duty, etc.) for the 38 with a kit. I'm in Canada so it just sucks that I'm going to have to pay all of that duty and shipping. Oh well. Thanks anyway.

[Bad Bunny]

Does anyone have any thoughts on the power gains I might see with the setup I am proposing? That was the 38 weber, 272 cam, and header to cat-back exhaust? Just speculating.

Also what fuel pressure regulator would you guys recommmend using? IIRC the weber likes 3 psi?

[cygnus x-1]

Does anyone have any thoughts on the power gains I might see with the setup I am proposing? That was the 38 weber, 272 cam, and header to cat-back exhaust? Just speculating.

Also what fuel pressure regulator would you guys recommmend using? IIRC the weber likes 3 psi?

My SWAG would be 130-135HP at the crank. And that really is a SWAG.

Don't worry about a pressure regulator for the time being. Just connect it up stock and see how it works. Or first get a pressure gauge and see what it measures at before spending money on a regulator.

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[Bad Bunny]

ANOTHER question. Header related.

I'm thinking I'm going to go with the 2" header. I already have a 2.25" cat-back exhaust system and the stock cat is still in there. What should I do with the cat? Should I get a high flow or perhaps keeping the stock will provide some necessary back pressure for lower rpm torque. If this is the case, is the header even necessary. Thoughts? Thanks.

[A20A1]

no stock cat. :)
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352

when you say 2" header you mean 2" collector right.

because 2" primaries is too big, 2" collector is great.


The recent explanations I've been reading about moving the torque band around has to do with velocity... thats it.

Torque at low RPMS with small diameter pipe comes quickly because pressure raises quicker and you gain velocity.
Now for larger pipes you need to increase the flow of the motor to increase the pressure in the pipe so you raise the RPM which increases the exhaust flow, so it takes a higher RPM to reach high velocities inside the pipe.

The velocity at which the exhaust gas should be traveling is about 240-300 feet per second


so in reality after reading that link I gave you you should get a better understanding that it's not really backpressure per say but velocity that you're trying to achieve and that for the "y" CFM of your motor, you'll reach "240-300 feet per second" velocity at "x" RPM with "z" pipe diameter.

Still there is much to learn. :)

And if we had a stock setup that didn't include of the stock cat and muffler and ran just the 1.75" stock system from the header back I'm sure you'd see some low-mid end gains.

[Bad Bunny]

You guys are amazing! The header is a 2" collector with 1.5" primaries.

I ordered the 38 and adaptor! It's in the mail and I should be getting it next week sometime :):):):)

I'm sure there will be many more questions :D

[cygnus x-1]

Exactly what A20A1 said. It's not backpressure you want but velocity. The high velocity gas traveling through the pipe has it's own inertia so that when it's not being "pushed" from the header side, it tries to keep going from it's own momentum and "pulls" out of the manifold. It's similar to the water hammer effect in plumbing.

As far as I know all the after market headers available have a 2" collector, so you're pretty much stuck with that unless you want to have it modified.

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[Bad Bunny]

Now regarding timing. I've read I want a 3 degree advance on the cam, what about the distributor? Is the A20A1 an interference engine?

Also, pertaining to the header: I talked to a muffler shop this weekend and was told by the owner that Pacesetter can be a very problematic header to install and can prove difficult after the install, due to the "poor qaulity." of it. Anyone have any comments on the header by Pacesetter? And does anyone else make a header for our cars?

[MessyHonda]

Now regarding timing. I've read I want a 3 degree advance on the cam, what about the distributor? Is the A20A1 an interference engine?

Also, pertaining to the header: I talked to a muffler shop this weekend and was told by the owner that Pacesetter can be a very problematic header to install and can prove difficult after the install, due to the "poor qaulity." of it. Anyone have any comments on the header by Pacesetter? And does anyone else make a header for our cars?



yeah the pacesetter is not the best header....other companies made header for our car like DC and SS. but thoes have been discontinued and even if you found out you would still have to pay alot since demand is high....i have a pacesetter header....some problems people have is that the downpipe hits the front crossmemeber. so you might have to grind some of it off.

[Silent_Hill]

picture of an installed weber please?

[cygnus x-1]

Now regarding timing. I've read I want a 3 degree advance on the cam, what about the distributor? Is the A20A1 an interference engine?


It supposedly is an interference engine but I'm not aware of anyone actually having a piston hit a valve, even when blowing a timing belt.

If you have an adjustable cam gear you can advance the cam timing to lower the power band. You would then have to reset the distributor to maintain the ignition timing.

Pics of my Weber 38:
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/Weber_38-38.jpg
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/EngineBayNew1.jpg
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/EngineBayNew2.jpg


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[A20A1]

My cable used to use a connection like that but on the third run at track it completely slipped out and I idled my way to the finish. :(

I since midified the stock cable linkage to fit onto the weber, not more slips and a nicer pull/feel to the pedal.

[Bad Bunny]

It supposedly is an interference engine but I'm not aware of anyone actually having a piston hit a valve, even when blowing a timing belt.

If you have an adjustable cam gear you can advance the cam timing to lower the power band. You would then have to reset the distributor to maintain the ignition timing.

C|

So after installing the cam gear I will reset the distributor timing to 15btdc. How much will the cam gear throw it off? Will the car run without detonating with the cam gear installed and the distributor timing not yet adjusted?

I'm tempted to rotated the crank by hand when the timing belt has been removed to see if there is any contact.

And the Weber should be here soon! I'll try and post pics :)

[cygnus x-1]

So after installing the cam gear I will reset the distributor timing to 15btdc. How much will the cam gear throw it off? Will the car run without detonating with the cam gear installed and the distributor timing not yet adjusted?

I'm tempted to rotated the crank by hand when the timing belt has been removed to see if there is any contact.

And the Weber should be here soon! I'll try and post pics :)

The cam gear changes the cam position in relation to crank. And the distributor is connected to the cam so the distributor will be off by however much the cam gear changes it. You'll need to re-adjust the ignition timing when you install the gear and anytime you change the setting on the gear. But it's really easy to do.

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[Bad Bunny]

Where is the best place to by cam gear? I'll check the classifieds section at lunch.

Header has been bought from Little xOx, S&S 4-1 :). Cam will be coming out this weekend and sent to Colt Cams for a Stage 1.

Still waiting for the 38/38 to arrive...

[cygnus x-1]

There was a cam gear group buy here recently. Send a PM to "nswst8". He organized the whole thing and I'm pretty sure he still has a few left. Check the sticky threads in the Performance section here too.

Cool, you got an S&S! I have one too that has been sitting at the coating place to be ceramic coated for the last several months. Supposedly the guy's dad has been having major health issues so he's been really slow in getting the thing done. Hope to have it back pretty soon though.

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[Bad Bunny]

Hey! The carb came! I'll post some pics. The carb is stamped 38DGASM 330 05 though. Does this mean they sent the DGAS instead of the DGES. Or do I need the DGES with the electric choke? Instead of the water choke? How do these two types of chokes differ? Can I use tyhe 38 DGAS?

Pics

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y233/nickjoe/DSC00098.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y233/nickjoe/DSC00099.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y233/nickjoe/DSC00100.jpg

[MessyHonda]

sorry i dont know my carbs but that lil carb looks bad ass. :thumbup:

[cygnus x-1]

Yep. That's a DGAS. The only difference is the choke; water vs. electric. The electric choke is probably easier (mine is a DGAS so I don't know about the electric version) but the water choke works too. You just need to plumb it into the coolant system.

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[A20A1]

that looks like a DGES though, I don't see any water ports for the hoses?

Anyways you can use either.

Whats the "M" for in DGASM?

do you have your manifold adapter ready?

[cygnus x-1]

Hmm. The choke isn't really visible but in the third picture it looks like the choke cover is silver, which would be like my DGAS. But I don't see the water taps though. The DGAS has two water taps on the choke cover. The DGES just has a little electrical connector on the middle. Here you can see it.

http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Engine-build/Weber_38-38.jpg

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[2ndGenGuy]

I used to have that throttle linkage on my DGEV too. I don't know how many times I had that thing come loose or slip off... I had the cable break on me once because it was pinched in there so badly. I wound up pulling the throttle open and sliding the cable through one of the holes just to make it fit. It gave me a fixed throttle at about 3000rpm. Kinda scary to drive a car like a lawn tractor.

I fixed it by soldering a ring terminal onto the cable. That thing will NEVER come loose. What sucks is that if it ever breaks for some reason, I've got no slack to play with. But it's worked great so far, so we'll see what happens.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/engine%20bay/IMG_2662.jpg

[Bad Bunny]

So after an extremely lengthy hiatus, I'm back and going to attempt installing my carb this weekend. School got crazy and I had to put it all off until this summer. Got the S&S header on earlier this week and very impressed with the output. Noticeable mid-high range gain and a deeper, throatier sound.

I have been doing some research and flagged a few important topics. It seems as though i need to plug some coolant lines/passages on the carb... I did not know this until today. Are there any step by step installation guides out there on these threads for a 38 weber? I have found a couple vague ones and am definitely not confident in my ability to make assertions and assumptions. I am confusing myself with questions like does it matter whether or not I plug certain valves and openings where useless hoses once ran from to the OEM carb?

I also see that it is necessary to customize the throttle linkage and possibly file the adapter plate to make it bigger so that it will accomodate the throttle plate on the 38.

Sorry for the knowledgeless questions. Any input would be appreciated as I'd like to get this started and have a backup car for the time being. Thanks.

[2oodoor]

Most of the knowledge base is out there but I will answer any questions you run across, no problem.
You plug off and remove almost everything !
I will take some good pics of mine and post them up this afternoon.
Good choice in the 38, If I had it all to do over I would have got that one to start with.

[Bad Bunny]

Thanks Roodoo.

I did get it installed and it did run fairly decently! I don't have throttle linkage hooked up yet but I ran it anyway. After removing everything from the OEM carb (and you really do remove a lot! It's awesome), I have only re-hooked up the #2 and #25 vacuum hoses using a T to run them into one hose (the #2 that enters the back of the manifold. I hope this is correct...)

Basically, I have re-hooked up those two vacuum lines merged into 1, the fuel line, and the electric choke and that's it. Anything that was attached to the manifold and didn't need to come off with the OEM carb stayed (brake booster, etc.).

As far as plugging holes goes, there are a few little vacuum hoses coming out of the rear of the manifold that are pretty well useless now. Do I have to plug these? What will happen if I leave these little hoses un-plugged for now? Similar question with the two big ports on the manifold too, one of which is definitiely a big vacuum.

There is also a coolant line coming out of the back of the manifold (rather small line). Is it plugged too?

Regards.

[2oodoor]

yes plug that one off good, remove the line and "filter" thing bolted under the intake manifold. Also did you jb weld the coolant port under the carb? I really recommend porting the divider inside the manifold too. If you want my jet sizes I will share them, cygnus-x1 tuned this one with a wideband on a mildley modded A20 and it runs perfect on my stock one, it is unbelievable.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/P7210204.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/P7210203.jpg

more pics on your other thread:D

[2oodoor]

oh and that duct tape is temporary, I glued a wine cork in that tube and the tape was holding it till it cured, the cork fit nice and tight though. That is until the header is put on, then I will do away with the pipe all together.
I took the oem carb cable holder (crescent shaped) dremeled the tap off and attached it to the weber linkage, it works better and you don't have to cut the end off the cable that way.

[Bad Bunny]

Cool.

Did JB weld that coolant port - I actually used JB weld; I think A20A1 used quick steel.
what pipe is that, that you put the cork in?

[cygnus x-1]

I am so addicted to my wide band O2 sensor. I think I would actually die without it. :nervous:

The tube with the duct tape, that's the air suction tube. It lets fresh air into the exhaust to help complete combustion of any unburnt hydrocarbons. But it doesn't help us go any faster, so screw that. :lol:


C|

[Bad Bunny]

Ok. I thought it was the AS. I actually hooked mine up as the S&S has a mount for it.

Cygnus: I used the jetting that you once told me about sometime ago.

It runs fairly decently after fiddling with the fuel adjustment screws for a night and tuning to its current jetting. I have it idling at about 850 rpm not to rich and not to lean.. I think. I do notice that sometimes when I come to a standstill, it wants to idle high (like 1500-2000) and if I put it into park or neutral, this goes up to like (2500-3000) until I kick it once or twice back down to 850 or so. This only occurs at some intersections. Often, it just idles normally. Anybody have any ideas as to why it would sometimes idle high like this? I am no mechanic but I was thinking it may have something to do with the fact that it is a performance carb and in taking in too much fuel to burn if I haven't stomped on it in a while... so it takes care of it at idle or something... I don't know :sad2:

[2oodoor]

sounds like the choke and idle linkage is binding..

say, how does your car shift now.. I was anticipating some issues with the TV cable using the 38 on the automatic car I have.

[Bad Bunny]

sounds like the choke and idle linkage is binding..

say, how does your car shift now.. I was anticipating some issues with the TV cable using the 38 on the automatic car I have.

I guess you know mine is an auto too?

It seems to shift fine. I'm getting used to the new feel of the pedal (stiffer) and noticed last night a couple of times that it shifted kind of slow right from the standstill but I think that was because my mixture was to rich and the cable still needed a slight bit of adjusting.

How to check if choke is binding?

[cygnus x-1]

Ditto on the sticky linkage. Pretty much you just have to look at it and see if it's getting stuck somewhere. A light spritz of spray on lithium grease might help out. Or a few drops of light oil on any pivots.

C|

[Bad Bunny]

I notice that sometimes after opening it up, the throttle linkage plate does not come all the way back to the idle adjustment screw but if I just push it back with my finger, the idle bumps down just fine. I tried attaching the return spring but it didn't have much effect.

I don't know a lot about this stuff but would it make sense to turn the idle adjustment screw until it is where the throttle linkage likes to stop and then using a smaller idling jet? Or does anyone know what would cause the throttle to stick? It's only feeler gages away from the screw, but that's enough to keep the idle up at 1500-2000.

[Bad Bunny]

I finally have some photos up in my cardomain account. Check them out if you're interested.

[2oodoor]

I found another sweet weber 32/36 today at the JY. I left it there as I was on a last scavege hunt for a prelude b20a4 dc header before I start hacking up this exhaust. I have the A20 dc downpipe welded to the rest of the exhaust.
The weber looked practically new, I may go back and get it just to add to the collection it looked like one of the original designs with the logo and weber icon cast into the body and the top hat.