Ignition or Electrical Problem??? HELP!!

[blh1983]

Alright last week I thought that my alternator went out. So I took the whole car apart and was going to change the alternator myself; by remomal of the airbox. Well I got disgusted when I stripped a bolt on the alternator and decided that I was going to put it all together and take it to a mechanic. Well after getting it all back together I decided (What the hell) that I'd clean the terminals and see if it starts up. I did, and it did. So I thought the problem was over. But It turns out that I have a different similar problem now.

The day after I thought all these problems were behind me, I goto start my car and it didn't seem to have any problem illuminating the dash and powering all the accessories. But when I turned the key one spot further to start it all power was lost. So I turn the key to the off position and try again and this time it starts up just fine. No battery light or anything. A day or two passes and while driving down the road the tach starts bouncing irratically the battery light is lighting up (depending on RPM's). So I turn the car around drive it home; because I know what this mean. I'm about to lose all power and be stranded if I don't go home. So I get the car home, turn the car off. And turn it back on and it starts up just fine. Earlier today (a few days later mind you) I goto start it and it does the no power thing again; but it starts just fine the second try. And I let my fiance use my car tonight and she called me and told me that when she took it to get lunch that it started doing the tach bounce and the battery light thing againg....

Does anyone know :wtf: the problem is? Thank you kindly in advance. You guys are great!

[LX-incredible]

Sounds like a bad connection on a battery cable. Check the connection at the terminals, grounds, and main fuses.

[blh1983]

I don't like adding my own ideas... Could it be the main relay?

[LX-incredible]

Main relay has nothing to do with the starter or the lights. If those went out when you lost power, I would look elsewhere.

[Oldblueaccord]

One thing I meant to add to your last problem and might help on this one is make sure that your battery terminals are tight AND are on the battery post good. Last battery I had I tightened down the positive terminal all the way till the bolt bottomed out. When I went to jump some bodies car a few months later i realized the terminal could be twisted off by hand. It was something with the battery post being undersized since this battery fits much better.

Also make sure your alt. connections are ok as well.

wp

[blh1983]

I replaced the battery terminals shortly after putting the car back togther. They are brand new, good quality and tightly fitted, I'll try to check the other end of there connections somehow soon.
One thing I meant to add to your last problem and might help on this one is make sure that your battery terminals are tight AND are on the battery post good. Last battery I had I tightened down the positive terminal all the way till the bolt bottomed out. When I went to jump some bodies car a few months later i realized the terminal could be twisted off by hand. It was something with the battery post being undersized since this battery fits much better.

Also make sure your alt. connections are ok as well.

wp

[blh1983]

It was only my hopes I suppose. I thought that the main relay was connected to the entire harness from the dash to the fuse panel under the hood and in the car.. etc.. But then again I know nothing about the main relay.. Thanks for being so quick to reply.
Main relay has nothing to do with the starter or the lights. If those went out when you lost power, I would look elsewhere.

[LX-incredible]

I replaced the battery terminals shortly after putting the car back togther. They are brand new, good quality and tightly fitted, I'll try to check the other end of there connections somehow soon.

Are those just the lead replacement ends? I had a problem with the connection of the wire to the terminal. Open them up and check. You might want to lightly sand the wire strands if they are corroded and reconnect. I wound up just getting new honda cables, solved the problem.

[dlr1989]

Another possibility that I have not seen anyone mention is the ignition switch. These cars are notorious about poor electrical contact/burned contact pads in the ignition switch. The electrical part of the switch is replaceable separately from the key part and is not too difficult. My gut feeling is that you may still have a problem with your battery terminals or cables but the ignition switch is also a possibility.

[LX-incredible]

If he lost the lights when he lost power, it's not the ignition switch.

[dlr1989]

You are correct! I hate it when people don't read a thread carefully enough and then post stupid suggestions.......especially when it's me.

If he lost the lights when he lost power, it's not the ignition switch.

[MessyHonda]

You are correct! I hate it when people don't read a thread carefully enough and then post stupid suggestions.......especially when it's me.



dont be too hard on your self....at least you are trying to help.

[blh1983]

Well I tightened the battery terminal even thought they were tight already (I couldn't turn them by hand before, and I certainly can't now). That seems to have solved the problem for now. But I took my car to battery exchange and they tested my charging system and when I turn the AC on the alternator can't keep up unless I adjust the ac idle boost control solenoid to 1100 RPM's. The guy says I have a bad diode in my alternator, they said they'd install a new alternator for $185. Not bad.

[LX-incredible]

$185 isn't bad.

[Blkblurr]

If he lost the lights when he lost power, it's not the ignition switch.
Not true. You can have more than one contact in the ignition switch that is going bad. he didn't say the headlights went out. His syptoms are exactly what happen to mine except I had one more problem. My car would just die while driving. I replaced the contact block on the ignition switch and all has been good. This was more than three years ago.

[2oodoor]

Not true. You can have more than one contact in the ignition switch that is going bad. he didn't say the headlights went out. His syptoms are exactly what happen to mine except I had one more problem. My car would just die while driving. I replaced the contact block on the ignition switch and all has been good. This was more than three years ago.

that is what I was thinking, it sounded exactly like a Honda ign switch problem, he said dash lights so I am thinking warning lights and such, which would be par for the course

[LX-incredible]

He said he lost all power... maybe he could clarify?

[Kemikals]

Seems like if it was the alternator he wouldn't notice anything and the battery would just die... I mean you can drive without an alternator as long as your battery has power. I'd look into that ignition contact, and somehow having a short in your battery lines or anything of that nature. I've seen tons of alternator problems, shouldn't have any problems cranking or power going out if it's the alternator, your battery can run the car for a good 20 minutes with a dead alternator.

[blh1983]

The battery does not appear to be losing a charge; because when I had it tested last time they said it was at full strength.. It's almost as if there's a hold up somewhere between the alternator and the ignition as you are all mentioning.. I thought I had the problem solved when I tightened the terminals and it started up and ran good for two days. But this morning when I went to start it the car acted like it had enough power but then when I turned the key all power was cut. When I say all power, I mean I had the door open and the courtesy light would turn off when I turned the key to turn the starter over.. Then when I went to turn the key again the dash indicators were not as bright and it definately didn't want to start..... So I drove my gf's truck to work.

Then I came home for lunch tried to start it and the same thing; half lit dash icons. Then in a moderate fit of antiroad rage I kicked the corner area by the fuse panel and all of a sudden the beast came to life, or should I say full power instead of half power. I turned it over it ran just fine; and then I drove it to work. And now I'm home. All I have to say is :wtf: This car keeps breaking down at home. Nowhere else. But aside from that I need your thoughts on this. Thanks for your help!

[blh1983]

So are you all still thinking ignition switch??

[LX-incredible]

The door and parking lights have nothing to do with the ignition switch whatsoever.

[momin]

I am not an expert but i do have 87 accord lxi for a long time. I had sort of similar problem in my car " Tack meter start bouncing and sometime just go dead and i find out the problem was bad ignition coil" so i chagned the coil and fixed the problem....

[Versanick]

If there's a short/unnecessary contact with a ground somewhere in your wiring to the starter solenoid or ignition switch, all power could be perceived to be gone (or so low that even the lights won't work). Times when all the power dies while trying to start, try just leaving the key in the 'on' position, and jumping the two terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver (with a plastic handle, so you don't get electrocuted). Or put your starter on a switch or button.

Clearly, as the problem is happening when turning the key to the 'start' position, there MUST be a wiring problem either right where the key turns, or the wiring that is between [where power is supplied to your starter or ignition] and [the starter or ignition itself].

My starter's on a push button that I bought at Radio shack. It works wonderfully. I don't even have to have the clutch depressed to start the car.

That should fix the problem (via workaround) regardless what the problem actually is.

Good luck.

[2oodoor]

very good point Versanick, I think there are some grounds switched at the key switch as well as 12vdc. Relays go crazy when they loose the grounds that make them function properly.

[89 accord lx-i]

my car just started doing this and its starting to get bad where it does it almost every time i try to start it. does anyone know how much it would cost to get this fixed or can someone post instructions on how to fix it myself? ive only had carb v8's so this motor confuses the hell outta me

[Blkblurr]

So are you all still thinking ignition switch??
Based on your last post it seems to be more of an issue with a ground wire. Maybe the ground coming from the battery is loose or corroded where it connects the the frame.

[blh1983]

After replacing the main relay (which may have been pointless), and cleaning the battery posts and terminals with a steel brush; my car has been running great. I haven't had any difficulty starting or driving down the road.
Based on your last post it seems to be more of an issue with a ground wire. Maybe the ground coming from the battery is loose or corroded where it connects the the frame.

[-$MOKIN-]

did you change the alternator or what?
the reason why it was dyin while driving was because of the batterie terminals being loose and when you take the batterie bracket mount off and dont reinstall it the batterie wil move and loosen the untight batterie terminal connection. replace the alternator your self its cake. 2 bolts and the tensioner bolt. save your self 100 bucks . im for sure you dont make 100 bucks an hour and thats all it would take. good luck to you

[blh1983]

No I didn't change the alternator. I ended up taking the one I bought back. And removing the alternator may be simple, but that is depending on whether the bolts wanna come loose. I could not break my bottom bolt/nut loose. So I just gave up.
did you change the alternator or what?
the reason why it was dyin while driving was because of the batterie terminals being loose and when you take the batterie bracket mount off and dont reinstall it the batterie wil move and loosen the untight batterie terminal connection. replace the alternator your self its cake. 2 bolts and the tensioner bolt. save your self 100 bucks . im for sure you dont make 100 bucks an hour and thats all it would take. good luck to you

[-$MOKIN-]

If You Take The Drivefs Side Tire Off. Then You Will Be Able To Acess The Bolt Better Than From On Top. Get A One Size Smaller Socket And Beat It On There. If You Get Frustrated Go Smoke And Get Back On It Later. Never Give Up On A Bolt. Beat The Shit Out Of It..lol Or If Your In The Detroit Area Il Be Happy To Install The Alternator For 175 And Save You 10 Bucks.lol Good Luck Man. Is The Batterie Still Dieing Or What? Open end wrenches have a tendency to strip shit. you coould take the top bolt off the move the alternator back qnd forth it might loosin it a little

[AccordB20A]

and remove all that useless plastic bullshit :)

[blh1983]

Lol, I don't smoke. But I do crave them when I'm stressed out. But only because my parents use to smoke. I got a quote from one shop for $180 installed that's including there part and labor. But my car has been running great. I'm going to goto a shop right now and have them test my charging system. So I'll be back with the results a little later.
If You Take The Drivefs Side Tire Off. Then You Will Be Able To Acess The Bolt Better Than From On Top. Get A One Size Smaller Socket And Beat It On There. If You Get Frustrated Go Smoke And Get Back On It Later. Never Give Up On A Bolt. Beat The Shit Out Of It..lol Or If Your In The Detroit Area Il Be Happy To Install The Alternator For 175 And Save You 10 Bucks.lol Good Luck Man. Is The Batterie Still Dieing Or What? Open end wrenches have a tendency to strip shit. you coould take the top bolt off the move the alternator back qnd forth it might loosin it a little

[blh1983]

LOL, my last message didn't post when I originally created because it didn't think I was logged in. But I just went and had my charging system tested and when the lights, a/c, or cooling fan kick in it drops below 13 to like 12.68. So my alternator is on borrowed time unfortunately. But I have a very good strong battery so hopefully my car will run until I can afford to fix it.

[blh1983]

Speaking of borrowed time. My alternator seized up completely yesterday. I would be extremely pissed off right now except I have a second POS vehicle. An '84 Ford Ranger in desperate need of a carb rebuild. But back to my 86 Accord. I had a friend tow my car home with a tow chain from where it died. It died 8.5 miles away from my house. There is irony in the location it chose to die.

Here's the story. About 4 years ago my fiance had an 87 Accord LX-i Hatch (it was grey). We were driving down the road and we were approaching the corner of Portland Rd & Chemawa in Salem, OR. And the timing belt broke. Well my alternator seized at this exact same location. Can someone please tell me :wtf: that is all about. The moral of the story is if you have a Honda stay away from this intersection.

[-$MOKIN-]

haha...its called karma bro.. you cant drive a broke car. She was tryin to tell ya to change her alternator man. You seen all the signs. She told you time and time again. And you didnt fix her. So go give her some love and put a alternator on her. she will be so happy. =) Way better than a ford ranger.

[blh1983]

LOL, I know. If I didn't believe in Karma myself I'd be saying that you watch to much My Name is Earl. But then again if you don't watch that, maybe I watch to much of it.
haha...its called karma bro.. you cant drive a broke car. She was tryin to tell ya to change her alternator man. You seen all the signs. She told you time and time again. And you didnt fix her. So go give her some love and put a alternator on her. she will be so happy. =) Way better than a ford ranger.

[AccordB20A]

pft i drove my car with a blown head gasket for a year and it never let me down. just had to top the water up. i towed a car on a trailer with that b20a 200kms aswell... it ant broken till it stops :)

[blh1983]

I do not want a blown head gasket on my motor, especially since there's only 85000 on the rebuild. Since your in New Zeland however did you get your vehicle to pass a WOF test? Do they not look at blown head gaskets being a problem?


pft i drove my car with a blown head gasket for a year and it never let me down. just had to top the water up. i towed a car on a trailer with that b20a 200kms aswell... it ant broken till it stops :)


------------------------------------------------------------------

By the way I sold my 1984 Ford Ranger on Craigslist everyone, sold her yesterday and only had her listed for 3 days. Had her advertised for $399 sold her for $325.

I Used the money this morning to rent a car trailer from UHAUL for $48 and towed Blue (My Accord) to Battery Exchange. For a little less than $200 including the cost of my parts, their parts, and their labor, they are installing their alternator along with my waterpump and belt. I had to buy the waterpump and belt since they don't normally install these parts. Well the belt they do, but I bought it since they asked me to. I should have blue back on the road by tomorrow afternoon.

I didn't need a waterpump, but I bought one anyways because it doesn't hurt to change it out while the car is already being torn apart.

[lostforawhile]

Another possibility that I have not seen anyone mention is the ignition switch. These cars are notorious about poor electrical contact/burned contact pads in the ignition switch. The electrical part of the switch is replaceable separately from the key part and is not too difficult. My gut feeling is that you may still have a problem with your battery terminals or cables but the ignition switch is also a possibility.
good thought,also check the electrical plugs under the dash, i had this same problem,and it turned out to be one of the plugs had unclipped and become loose,pushed it back together and it was fine. i think it was the one near the center of the dash.there are several harness connectors near each other right there. it also could be your ignition switch,due to the no start condition, there are two ignition contacts in there in addition to acc and start. nappa can get the electrical part of the switch,it installs with eithier two small screws or small bolts,to the back of the mechanical part of the switch. really easy to do,the other end plugs into your fuse box on the back. to make it eaisier, disconnect the battery, then take out the two small bolts holding the fuse box in, it will be much eaisier to work with those connections if it's loose. the other reason i think it might be the ignition switch,is if the alternator loses field current the warning light will come on, this comes from one of those two contacts in the switch.

[lostforawhile]

very good point Versanick, I think there are some grounds switched at the key switch as well as 12vdc. Relays go crazy when they loose the grounds that make them function properly.
nope, start.ignition one,ignition 2, accessory . thats it

[-$MOKIN-]

Good To See Youy Got A Good Deal On The Water Pump Belt And Alternator. Awsome Find. Thats Usually About 350 At A Shop Around Here. Give Us A Update Man. Is She Done Now. No More Breakdowns?
Oh Yeah Wodog.. Ive Learned The Hard Way With If Isnt Borke Dont Fix It. Like A Leaking Wheel Cylinder That Finally Goes Out At 45 Miles Per Hour. Or Your Stearing Column Pivot Bolt Comes Loose And You Wheel Turns But The Tires Dont In The Middle Of A 4 Lane Cross Road.. Lol That Was The Worst Thing That Happened To Me. I Had To Get Out. Get My Jack Out. Jack It Up Then Turn The Wheel And Push It To The Side .. Lol. The Thing That Sucked Is That There Was This Hot Chick Beihnd Me . No Cops Tho :d
Keep The Honda Runnin Baby That All I Can Tell Ya .
We Do What We Do So Do It...................................

[lostforawhile]

Good To See Youy Got A Good Deal On The Water Pump Belt And Alternator. Awsome Find. Thats Usually About 350 At A Shop Around Here. Give Us A Update Man. Is She Done Now. No More Breakdowns?
Oh Yeah Wodog.. Ive Learned The Hard Way With If Isnt Borke Dont Fix It. Like A Leaking Wheel Cylinder That Finally Goes Out At 45 Miles Per Hour. Or Your Stearing Column Pivot Bolt Comes Loose And You Wheel Turns But The Tires Dont In The Middle Of A 4 Lane Cross Road.. Lol That Was The Worst Thing That Happened To Me. I Had To Get Out. Get My Jack Out. Jack It Up Then Turn The Wheel And Push It To The Side .. Lol. The Thing That Sucked Is That There Was This Hot Chick Beihnd Me . No Cops Tho :d
Keep The Honda Runnin Baby That All I Can Tell Ya .
We Do What We Do So Do It...................................are you talking about the universal joint? when I put my new rack in i torqued everything to specs and used locktite to make sure the bolt didn't back out,you are making me nervous here.

[-$MOKIN-]

Yep That Bolt That Tightens It At The Ankle. It Somehow Was Loose When I Got This Car I Got Now. I Dont Know Why. Its A 10 Mm Bolt. It Took Me A Good Hour To Find Out What Was Going On With The Column. It Sucked

[lostforawhile]

Yep That Bolt That Tightens It At The Ankle. It Somehow Was Loose When I Got This Car I Got Now. I Dont Know Why. Its A 10 Mm Bolt. It Took Me A Good Hour To Find Out What Was Going On With The Column. It Sucked
how long did it take you to figure out where the crap it was? it's not under the car,and i can't see it from inside &&#^@%#))#(*$ dam honda engineers!! LOL

[blh1983]

Well the new waterpump and alternator is on, but there was a wierd sound coming from under the timing belt cover. I drove the car to a friends house about 1/2 a mile away, and then removed the cover and the timing belt had a tear 1/3 of the way into it. I called Battery Exchange and the guy said they would install the timing belt for $40, if I provide the belt. So now hopefully the car comes back with no other problems, lol. Still situation could have been worse!

[lostforawhile]

you better check your tensioner and it might be best to get a kit with a belt and tensioner. something is tearing that belt,and if you don't fix it it will only get worse and probably tear the new belt.

[blh1983]

I appreciate you telling me this, I would hate for the tech at the shop to overlook this detail. I will buy a tensioner and have him install it irregardless of whether he thinks it needs one or not. Thank you for this information.
you better check your tensioner and it might be best to get a kit with a belt and tensioner. something is tearing that belt,and if you don't fix it it will only get worse and probably tear the new belt.

[lostforawhile]

I appreciate you telling me this, I would hate for the tech at the shop to overlook this detail. I will buy a tensioner and have him install it irregardless of whether he thinks it needs one or not. Thank you for this information.hey while the belt is out,have him check the two big washers that guide the belt at the bottom, maby one got bent or something. if they are bad they are a dealer part,but they are pretty cheap.also nappa carries a gates belt and tensioner kit,thats what i used.

[blh1983]

Can the tensioner be broken by accident when installing a waterpump and alternator, or was my belt or tensioner more than likely on borrowed time before these repairs or after due to issues related or unrelated? Can a seized alternator put intolerable stress on the timing belt and tensioner?

My therory is that the alternator froze up causing the belt to halt up at times, this tension of course affecting the lower cam shaft and timing pully, the extra stress wore out the tensioner, and tore the belt when the alternator belt would lock up in place.

Please let me know what you think! Thank you!

[lostforawhile]

Can the tensioner be broken by accident when installing a waterpump and alternator, or was my belt or tensioner more than likely on borrowed time before these repairs or after due to issues related or unrelated? Can a seized alternator put intolerable stress on the timing belt and tensioner?

My therory is that the alternator froze up causing the belt to halt up at times, this tension of course affecting the lower cam shaft and timing pully, the extra stress wore out the tensioner, and tore the belt when the alternator belt would lock up in place.

Please let me know what you think! Thank you!it possibly could,but more then likely the alternator belt would slip, i have heard of 2 gs that have broken timing belts from the ac compressor siezing up. the tensioner is probably just worn out,it's pretty common to replace both the belt and tensioner at the same time. they really need to look within the belt travel area for anything that could have contacted the belt, also look to see if that side engine mount is broken,mine was broken in half,it's unlikely but maby part of a broken one could be contacting the belt. i hope thats all it is, where was the cut? on the flat side of the belt, or on the side of the belt.

[blh1983]

I don't know how to describe the tear other than it's on the motor side and if you are facing the car it's as if the tear is pulled torwards you and at a downward to the right like angle. Does that help?
it possibly could,but more then likely the alternator belt would slip, i have heard of 2 gs that have broken timing belts from the ac compressor siezing up. the tensioner is probably just worn out,it's pretty common to replace both the belt and tensioner at the same time. they really need to look within the belt travel area for anything that could have contacted the belt, also look to see if that side engine mount is broken,mine was broken in half,it's unlikely but maby part of a broken one could be contacting the belt. i hope thats all it is, where was the cut? on the flat side of the belt, or on the side of the belt.

[blh1983]

By the way the alternator belt held enough friction to stall and kill the motor rather than just slip, but it would slip as well if I forced the engine rev higher. This could be my fault, but I had to get the car up the trailer to be towed some how. Sounds like I may be the cause of the problem, indirectly knowing so.
it possibly could,but more then likely the alternator belt would slip, i have heard of 2 gs that have broken timing belts from the ac compressor siezing up. the tensioner is probably just worn out,it's pretty common to replace both the belt and tensioner at the same time. they really need to look within the belt travel area for anything that could have contacted the belt, also look to see if that side engine mount is broken,mine was broken in half,it's unlikely but maby part of a broken one could be contacting the belt. i hope thats all it is, where was the cut? on the flat side of the belt, or on the side of the belt.

[-$MOKIN-]

how long did it take you to figure out where the crap it was? it's not under the car,and i can't see it from inside &&#^@%#))#(*$ dam honda engineers!! LOL

IT TOOK ME A GOOD HOUR TO FIGURE IT OUT. I HAD THE STEARING WHEEL OFF THE THE CLOUMN HALF WAY DOWN. AND LAYING ON MY BACK WITH MY HEAD UNDER THE DASH WHEN I LIFTED MY SELF OUT I TURNED THE WHEEL AND I COULD HERE IT RUBBING FROM UNDER ME. THATS WHEN I FOUND THE CAPARTMENT UNDER THE CARPET WHERE THE BLOT IS.

[-$MOKIN-]

:gun:
Can the tensioner be broken by accident when installing a waterpump and alternator, or was my belt or tensioner more than likely on borrowed time before these repairs or after due to issues related or unrelated? Can a seized alternator put intolerable stress on the timing belt and tensioner?

My therory is that the alternator froze up causing the belt to halt up at times, this tension of course affecting the lower cam shaft and timing pully, the extra stress wore out the tensioner, and tore the belt when the alternator belt would lock up in place.

Please let me know what you think! Thank you!

GOOD THEORY BUT NO..THE ALTERNATOR HAS NOTHIN TO DO WITH OR HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE TIMING BELT. I THOUGHT YOU SAID HE WAS DOIN THE TIMING BELT TOO. HE SHOULD OF. TAKE ALL THAT PLASITC OFF AROUND THE BELT.THEN YOU CAN SEE IT . I LEFT ALL OF MINE OFF ON MY CAR.
IM GOIN TO WARN YOU THAT IF THAT BELT BREAKS YOU MIGHT NEED TO GET A NEW MOTOR OR DO A REBUILD.

[LX-incredible]

it Took Me A Good Hour To Figure It Out. I Had The Stearing Wheel Off The The Cloumn Half Way Down. And Laying On My Back With My Head Under The Dash When I Lifted My Self Out I Turned The Wheel And I Could Here It Rubbing From Under Me. Thats When I Found The Capartment Under The Carpet Where The Blot Is.

I REMEMBER SEARCHING FOR THAT POS. AND OF COURSE THE MANUAL DIDN"T MENTION IT.

[lostforawhile]

I Remember Searching For That Pos. And Of Course The Manual Didn't Mention It.it's in the hidden compartment they ship the gremlins in from the factory

[blh1983]

My car is DONE!

Total: less than $350.00.

Installed: new timing belt w/ tensioner, brand new waterpump, alternator, & waterpump/alternator belt. And a generous tip for the great price cut over other shop quotes.

Blue is running very well. It' nice to finally have her back. And originally the timing belt was not on my list, but given the circumstance it was absolutely necessary. I should have had the belt inspected given that it had been about 85,000 miles since it's installation. Now that I know how easy it is to inspect the timing belt, I will certainly check it every once and awhile.

So here's a breakdown of what happened. I was driving down the road, and I come to a stop light and my buddy tells me the car isn't running. We were on a hill so I let the car roll back to the side of the road. I had my buddy get out while I turned the car over and he said the alternator isn't spinning. I had been told by battery exchange a few weeks ago that my alternator was on borrowed time. But I never contimplated it completely seizing up. I just figured that it would stop working altogether. As soon as I could, I went to UHAUL and rented a car trailer. And transported the car to Battery X-Change. I asked them if they would do the waterpump at the same time given that the two share a belt, and the age of the waterpump was unknown to me. One thing I didn't mention before is that, the waterpump actually did need to be replaced. Only after it was removed was it discovered that it was broken. Whoever installed the waterpump overtightened it (originally), and they broke the metal around the bolt hole area. The only reason it didn't leak is because the bolt held the shard in place. If only my intuition were as good about the timing belt. The shop installed the waterpump, alternator, and new waterpump/alternator belt. They thought it was all good sent me on my way telling me about the noise. I took the car to my friend house we inspected the timing belt and discovered a tear (pictured). So I carefully drove it back to the shop and they installed the timing belt in two days for one hell of a deal. It would have taken the shop less time to do the timing belt if my poor car wouldn't have broken a few of there impact sockets. So long story short my car is good as new for now.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/4812/dsc00165ot5.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00165ot5.jpg)http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6606/dsc00167iz2.th.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00167iz2.jpg)

Next on the Agenda: Clutch & Brakes.

[POS carb]

If the lights all cut out on crank with a good battery usually this is caused by a bad engine ground strap or battery ground cable.

[lostforawhile]

If the lights all cut out on crank with a good battery usually this is caused by a bad engine ground strap or battery ground cable.
they are suppposed to cut out,thats the way the switch is set up,at least if it's close to a stock switch. thats to divert all power but start and ignition. ignition 1 and accessory cut out,and ignition two stays on.

[blh1983]

I haven't posted anything for a long time, but I had to revive this thread. Well another reason I didn't post is I got sick of the homepage saying 3Geez 4.0 coming soon. Soon would have been a few weeks - not months. That and the home page wasn't even showing most recent threads. Which is where I often found the most interesting things to read on this site.

Back to why this thread is being revived. My alternator went out again on 01/09/2008. Car is in shop, part was still under warranty - so I just pay labor. Is there a way to take the AC out and rig up a back up alternator. 'Cause if I'm going to be experiencing this problem on a regular basis I'd like to at least get 4 months out of a new alternator, lol. Ok, I'm done bit#!%ng. I've missed you guys.

[nfs480]

I would just bite the bullet and pay for a Genuine Honda alternator, it will probably last longer. Either that or maybe there is some other unknown problem that is causing you to kill alternators, because my alternator is 8 years old!

[forrest89sei]

A new Alt from honda will run you $175

https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts_list.php?hp_queried_components=0&hp_series_id=380&hp_series_model=ACCORD&hp_series_year=1986&hp_series_door_ext_grade=4DR+LXI&hp_series_transmission=5MT&hp_series_slsareacd=KA&hp_system=A&hp_component=E++0601

[lostforawhile]

I haven't posted anything for a long time, but I had to revive this thread. Well another reason I didn't post is I got sick of the homepage saying 3Geez 4.0 coming soon. Soon would have been a few weeks - not months. That and the home page wasn't even showing most recent threads. Which is where I often found the most interesting things to read on this site.

Back to why this thread is being revived. My alternator went out again on 01/09/2008. Car is in shop, part was still under warranty - so I just pay labor. Is there a way to take the AC out and rig up a back up alternator. 'Cause if I'm going to be experiencing this problem on a regular basis I'd like to at least get 4 months out of a new alternator, lol. Ok, I'm done bit#!%ng. I've missed you guys.i'm looking into this now as a matter of fact. i was thinking something like the alternator from a geo that is really small,just for emergencies. i need to look at the wiring diagram again. if you have an alternator that doesn't have the field connected it won't pull much power from the engine.

[blh1983]

What would be ideal is an alternator that controls the ECU, Instrument Cluster, turn signals, door locks, and windows. The other alternator controls the stereo, headlights, AC/Heater Blower etc...
i'm looking into this now as a matter of fact. i was thinking something like the alternator from a geo that is really small,just for emergencies. i need to look at the wiring diagram again. if you have an alternator that doesn't have the field connected it won't pull much power from the engine.

[lostforawhile]

What would be ideal is an alternator that controls the ECU, Instrument Cluster, turn signals, door locks, and windows. The other alternator controls the stereo, headlights, AC/Heater Blower etc...well in an electrical failure with a backup alternator,you need to shed electrical load,turn off the stereo etc. you need a small alternator for an emergency situation to get you home. and you want it to power your lights for sure.

[mboardman]

I just went through this, with the same symptoms as you. replace the alternator and maybe the battery, unless its fairly new, and you'll be fine. You'll also have eliminated two major sources of the issue, in the troubleshooting chain. I wouldnt risk getting stranded somewhere while you think this through. Better to simply replace that alternator now, rather than a tow costing you a good portion of the $185....? That would chap my ass, I know it. $185 isnt a bad price to swap your alt, they run $120 at oreillys with core, and although fairly easy to do yourself, you cant beat an install for $65. Get the alt replaced and then see what happens.

[MessyHonda]

I just went through this, with the same symptoms as you. replace the alternator and maybe the battery, unless its fairly new, and you'll be fine. You'll also have eliminated two major sources of the issue, in the troubleshooting chain. I wouldnt risk getting stranded somewhere while you think this through. Better to simply replace that alternator now, rather than a tow costing you a good portion of the $185....? That would chap my ass, I know it. $185 isnt a bad price to swap your alt, they run $120 at oreillys with core, and although fairly easy to do yourself, you cant beat an install for $65. Get the alt replaced and then see what happens.




lol i would rather save the 65 bucks and swap it in in like 40 mins...i got good at it cuz my other 2 took a dump. 65 bucks is like a tank and a half of fuel....

[mboardman]

lol i would rather save the 65 bucks and swap it in in like 40 mins...i got good at it cuz my other 2 took a dump.

Ehh. Depends on mechanical ability and familiarity with the engine. Not everyone has done it twice. First time was a bitch. Id rather have a guarantee from a shop than go to all that trouble to save $65 bones, and have no guarantee. You replaced it twice cause you had no guarantee :)

[Dr_Snooz]

My two cents: this shop gives you a seriously low-ball price for a relatively easy alternator replacement. While there, they find a broken water pump that "somebody else" broke, but just happens not to have given any prior trouble. When you get the car back, you find that the timing belt is very nearly broken. This is another part with no prior history of trouble except that it's very close to where they were working. They somehow manage not to find the problem and give you back a car on the very brink of breaking catastrophically and very expensively. Now three months later, the original repair they made goes bad. I would avoid this shop, but that's just me.

[MessyHonda]

Ehh. Depends on mechanical ability and familiarity with the engine. Not everyone has done it twice. First time was a bitch. Id rather have a guarantee from a shop than go to all that trouble to save $65 bones, and have no guarantee. You replaced it twice cause you had no guarantee :)

first one went out because it was 18 years old and i was driving in rain....2nd one was just a defective unit.....even if the shop does it...and the alternator goes out....you would still need to spend time to bring in the car...and some shops may take up to a day to do it. so you lose one day of work or have to find another ride while the other one is getting fixed....im not saying your not a good mechanic...i would rather save the headache and do it myself...and you dont need to know an engine to do an alternator...just need to losen 3 bolts and disconnect the cables....i guess now i can do it in like 25 mins.

[mboardman]

well, regardless of whether to have the shop do it or not, get it done, was my point. Having a new alternator installed removes a giant section of the troubleshooting tree for the original poster on this topic. a new batt wouldnt hurt either depending on the age of the old batt.

[lostforawhile]

first one went out because it was 18 years old and i was driving in rain....2nd one was just a defective unit.....even if the shop does it...and the alternator goes out....you would still need to spend time to bring in the car...and some shops may take up to a day to do it. so you lose one day of work or have to find another ride while the other one is getting fixed....im not saying your not a good mechanic...i would rather save the headache and do it myself...and you dont need to know an engine to do an alternator...just need to losen 3 bolts and disconnect the cables....i guess now i can do it in like 25 mins.
not on a carb car lol.

[MessyHonda]

not on a carb car lol.



yeah stupid carb gets in the way...we had to pop off the axle last time we did it on a carb...but we had a lift and a shit load of air tools....still took like 30 mins.