Burning a ton of Oil.

[DDRaptor]

I have search and i see that it might be valve seals etc. I'm posting because everyone keeps ignoring my other thread.

I'm burning a lot of oil and i'm still overheating.
In a recap I got in a accident and i cracked my rad at the top on of the plastic piece. I have sealed the rad with JB water weld. but it still overheats after a while 30-45min, and It burns a lot of oil, i have a blue smoke cloud following me so i'm trying to figure out what caused it.

-Engine supports/frame are warped and the engine is off the factory angle
-Water/oil pump are ruined?
-Just need a new rad
-Valve seals were jolted out of place??


note - after warming up the car drives fine for about 30mins then it lets out a big cloud of blue then it starts overheating then it smokes continously.

sorry to make another post.

[Kemikals]

If the engine is off of the factory angle then the oil pressure could be out of wack. If it's over heating, is there anything wrong with the radiator at all? where did you wreck the car at(aka front end? side?)

[DDRaptor]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61200

previous thread + pics

[HondaBoy]

personally i think that sounds like maybe a busted head gasket. with the oil and over heating problem combined, thats what i come up with. but you may want to do some tests first. i'd first do a compression test, then a cylinder leak down test. if everything is ok there, i may turn out to be two totally differnt problems all together. if its two problems, first thought is rings or valve seals leaking. then as far as the cooling system, could be a defective or clogged radiator, rad. cap, or thermostat. hope that gives you some ideas on what you can do to getting your problems solved.

[DDRaptor]

Yeah thanks a lot I almost forgot that i have a compression tester so i can do that test last time I did it was pretty good around 170psi each +or- 5psi. only have 91k+ miles.

About a leak down test i'm :huh: i don't know what that really is.

thermostat is pretty easy replacement besides the fact that every fing bolt on this car is damn near impossible to get too.
how do you test a radiator cap??

Changing the head gasket is pretty simple besides the fact of removing the intake and exhaust manifold right>?

edit. - when i let out the bolt at the bottom of the radiator it barely flows-also does anyone have a picture of the engine coolant drain bolt??

thanks.

[HondaBoy]

i'd suspect a clogged cooling system. if you've ever used a stop leak type of product, that'd be to blame. if so, flush the engine coolant passages and radiator well with a radiator flush product. that may help clear up the over heating problem. testing a radiator cap, you would use a radiator cap tester. usually the tool set is called a coolant system pressure tester and has addapters for the radiator itself and the cap. i wouldnt recommend buying one, they arent cheap. rad cap and thermostat are cheap though. especially for the 3gee. come to think of it my radiator was pretty cheap, like $120.

[88Accord-DX]

If your valve guides/valves are worn & the valve stem seals aren't sealing good, going to have some oil burning. You can replace the valve stem seals with OHC valve spring compressor. (make sure the piston is at TDC).
With a leak down test, you need a leak down tester & a compressor for air supply. It will tell you if your valve or rings are leaking air past them. You have to put the cylinder at TDC on each one your testing.
A leak down tester will run about $40 to $125 depending on the quality.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/I/41NCSESEBGL._AA280_.jpg

[bubba g]

How much oil are you having to add? When you check it is it clean, or does it look milky or maybe smell like gas? Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? How hot does it get? Really hot, like 230+ or just slightly.

[DDRaptor]

How much oil are you having to add? When you check it is it clean, or does it look milky or maybe smell like gas? Have you pulled the plugs to see what they look like? How hot does it get? Really hot, like 230+ or just slightly.

wait come to think of it i have'nt had to add any oil after the day of the accident she burned all of it and i bought some castrol high mileage 4qt big bottle put in 2 quarts and i haven't added any more the oil still reads fine on the dipstick. which probably means it's not burning oil it's just burning coolant the funny thing is why is the smoke still blue?? i really have to wait for the beginning of september to get some money to re-flush the rad and clean it real good.

thanks at least it's not really oil it's burning.

[bubba g]

Blue smoke indicates a rich fuel to air mixture.

[bubba g]

I got to thinking and maybe in the accident you had something in your fuel system damaged? Carb adjustment, choke, vacuum line? It is carbed? Isn't it? You say you engine is sitting funny, so your floats probably need re-adjusted for sure.

[HondaBoy]

i thought black smoke was running rich. always has been for me. i was thinking blue was oil smoke. like on old cars with worn piston rings.

[DDRaptor]

well it was'nt running right lately so i pulled some spark plug wires for an f22 or something like that and cut it to size and replaced my fucked up wires and i have'nt had sputtering accelerating after that. i don't know if the engine is off i'm just thinking it might be off because of the impact.

[DDRaptor]

Well i drove her around for a few hours she was allright until at the end whe was acting up and sputtering and trying to shut off. I did have a revealation my oil and coolant levels are ok but i figured out that the cooling fans are not coming on at all which would explain the problem. I was able to drive around without overheating with heater on full blast and pouring water all over the rad allowing the water to cool while driving.

I'm going to remove the bottom shields and try to use my haynes manual to find out how to test the fans, and the switch for them.

[evil88accordLX]

i thought black smoke was running rich. always has been for me. i was thinking blue was oil smoke. like on old cars with worn piston rings.

black is oil, blue is gas, white is water.

[LX-incredible]

black is oil, blue is gas, white is water.

Switch the first two and you'll have it. :)

[DDRaptor]

Well i pulled the sensor from the rad and jumpered the wires and my fans still work but the temp sensor is busted some there are alot of choices on rock auto.com but i'm assuming it's this part

1988 HONDA ACCORD LX 2.0L 1955cc L4 2BBL [A20A1] : Cooling System : Engine Cooling Fan Controller

FOUR SEASONS Part # 36531 More Info
w/ Nippondenso Radiator, Fan Switch

$28.79 $0.00 $28.79

ACDELCO Part # E1879 More Info {#19021030}
SWITCH,FAN CONT IN RADIATOR-STAMPED A90
SWITCH,FAN CONT STAMPED A-90 IN RADIATOR
* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 12 business days *

$29.79


Autozone has 4 different ones rangeing from the Santech cooling fan switch with nippodenso radiator 18.99

[SZfiftyfour]

White smoke: White smoke is caused by water and or antifreeze entering the cylinder, and the engine trying to burn it with the fuel. The white smoke is steam. There are special gaskets (head gaskets are the primary gaskets) that keep the antifreeze from entering the cylinder area. The cylinder is where the fuel and air mixture are being compressed and burned. Any amount of antifreeze that enters this area will produce a white steam that will be present at the tailpipe area.

Blue Smoke: Blue smoke is caused by engine oil entering the cylinder area and being burned along with the fuel air mixture. As with the white smoke, just a small drop of oil leaking into the cylinder can produce blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more likely in older or higher mileage vehicles than newer cars with fewer miles.

Black Smoke: Black smoke is caused by excess fuel that has entered the cylinder area and cannot be burned completely. Another term for excess fuel is "running rich." Poor fuel mileage is also a common complaint when black smoke comes out of the tailpipe. Black smoke out the tailpipe is the least cause for alarm. Excess fuel will usually effect engine performance, reduce fuel economy, and produce a fuel odor.

[bubba g]

my bad, I know when I had an injector shorted to ground in the ecu It was belching blue smoke. I took the ecu apart reaired it and no more blue smoke. Now my chevelle puts out a little black smoke when I romp on it. I know that is rich also, just not as bad as having an injector spraying as much fuel as the pump can deliver into one cylinder. By the way Raptor It sounds like you have the right replacement part found. Let's hope it fixes all your problems.