Rolling idle? so close

[Demon1024]

Hey everyone ive been working on my little beast for a few years now it sat a while once i got my 96cord but it needs a new clutch now and i cant afford it so here it goes. finished getting rid of the trouble codes (fast idle valve and tw senser) got it idling right sitting still but if its moving it goes to about 2200. Is there a way to adjust this idle? this is at anything but a complete stop.
88 lxi-hatch 28x,xxx 5-speed

[Demon1024]

going to work it was 2500-3000

[LX-incredible]

Was it a 5-speed originally? The auto ECUs will up the idle when in motion.

[Demon1024]

The car was yes. the motor itself came from an auto. i didnt replace the shaft comin out of the water pump but everything else was already on the car. i had to reroute the hoses to one of the sensors, the one on the front of the intake could that do it? the motor is now a bt from an 86 but the intake is the same from the 88.

[LX-incredible]

So the ECU is the 88 5-speed? What is the idle set at?

[Demon1024]

bout 950 when im sitting still but once it goes 2 mile an hour it goes to 2500-3000

[LX-incredible]

So the ECU is the 88 5-speed?

i had to reroute the hoses to one of the sensors, the one on the front of the intake could that do it? The IACV could do it, but you need to figure out why and if it is trying to up the idle first. The small coolant lines going to it are just to prevent freezing in cold weather. They do not affect its operation. With the engine warmed up, unplug the IACV and go for a drive. Does the idle still surge while moving? Reconnect and reset the ECU, either by removing the ECU/CLOCK fuse in the under-hood box, or by removing the negative battery cable for a few minutes. Start the car, with all accessories off, and let idle for 10 minutes. Shut it off, it is now ready to be restarted and driven. This is the correct way of reseting the ECU.

[Demon1024]

yes ecu 88 5 speed.

[Demon1024]

unplugged it and it stopped. plugged it back in reset the ecu and it still doing it. do i need a new iacv?

[Demon1024]

Drivin 2 work the check engine light came on and i noticed it started idleing right. turned car off then back on to check code and it was gone. same old problem going home! i thought when the light came on it was stored to be read? why did it just vanish?

[LX-incredible]

Drivin 2 work the check engine light came on and i noticed it started idleing right. turned car off then back on to check code and it was gone. same old problem going home! i thought when the light came on it was stored to be read? why did it just vanish?
Next time check the code while running, with the CEL on. When my idle was surging, I unplugged the EACV, waited for the light to come on, and reconnected, without reseting the ECU afterwards. Seemed to fix the problem for a few days each time. The idle was also raised by like 300 or 400 rpm when I did this. My guess is that ECU either opens one of the air bleed solenoids, located in the black box, or increases the voltage to the EACV, to compensate for the "faulty" EACV. I did this for a few weeks before I fixed the problem. Both the IAT sensor and the EACV were replaced at the same time, so I can't tell you for sure, but I believe the problem was solely with the EACV.

[Demon1024]

Thanks for the help and that tip bout not resetting, i'll try that. i'm going to search for what i can take outta that dam box now...

[LX-incredible]

I would leave the air bleed solenoids, most of the idle control on our cars is through those. Later vehicles use only the EACV and got rid of most of that crap. The map sensor, timing advance and purge controls, and EGR lift solenoid need to stay if you don't want CELs and other problems. Now with an OBD I swap, you could get rid yourself of most of that shit. Vacuum removal is mostly for the carbed guys...

[Demon1024]

so i found out... i guess i'll leave it alone or try to paint it clear. obd1 little to much work\$ for me now. rather put a new clutch in my 96. know anything bout tripple plate clutch? How much more difficult could it be? done the 3rdgen more than 6 times

[Demon1024]

i dont guess i could just swap the solenoids from my auto could i? just to make sure before buying a new eacv. already got one a while back trying to figure out a problem (go figure) and the dam thing was $200! maybee 3 ounces of aluminum and plastic!wtf

[Oldblueaccord]

Try bleeding the coolant that goes to it. If a little air is trapped in it it effects that plunger in there. If its plugged up with rust and junk there could be a problem too. Just loosen the clamps and let fluid dribble out. You might here the air escaping.

wp

[LX-incredible]

i dont guess i could just swap the solenoids from my auto could i? just to make sure before buying a new eacv. already got one a while back trying to figure out a problem (go figure) and the dam thing was $200! maybee 3 ounces of aluminum and plastic!wtf

Some of them will swap over, but the surging idle is probably not caused by them. They are just a coil that lifts a plunger, pretty simple. The EACV is a electric brushed motor that rotates a shaft to lift the plunger, they are more likely to go bad.

[88Accord-DX]

You can also test it. Most of the IAC solenoids have a ohms reading you can check to specs to see if their bad. If I have time at work, I'll check to see what ohms reading & what pins you check with a DVM on Mitchell I program. (88 lxi)

[Demon1024]

driving back from parents house bout 60 miles and it's idle went normal again but no CEL? all iv'e done is put bigger air filter on it. tried bleeding coolant. tried trick with iacv unplug then plug back in. It stays down not plugged in soon as it's reconnected goes right back up when it moves. guess i'll see what it does tomorrow...

[Demon1024]

still doing it... i've also notice it "hiccups" almost right at 3k rpms and immediatlly after i shift if i push it. i really don't want to buy that iavc again kinda broke. anyone know how to test it? got an ohmeter. is there somthing in this engine i need to replace from the old one? it was an auto but this car is a stick it's the same ecu, intake everything as the stick just swapped the motor.

[88Accord-DX]

I did look at Mitchell program today & couldn't find any test with a DVM you can do with ohms readings. It looks like this EACV isn't like a normal IAC with 4 leads you can check with a DVM. I'll try to print out what it says in a few days.
EDIT- Here is something I pulled of the net. Plus this link too. http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

Electronic Air Control Valve
Lets extra air into the intake manifold, to help control the idle under different loads.

Check the O-rings, for mountng condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect...

Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.

EACV Sensor Wires:


1 Blue/Black
1 Yellow/Black

[88Accord-DX]

Found this from a search, this test is similar to what I was talking about.

Disconnect the connector off the EACV again and check the resistance on the units terminals, there should be between 8 and 15 ohms, if not replace the EAVC.

Continue testing:
Next, using your ohm meter and the engine off, check to see if you have continuity to a good chassis ground from each of the terminals on the EACV.
Do you get continuity? If you do:
Replace the EACV
Next, turn on you ignition and measure the voltage on the connector.
Black/Yellow is + and Blue/Red is the - terminal.
Is there voltage present? If Yes:
This completes the testing of the EACV unit. The problem may now lie with the ECU harness or the ECU itself. If no:
Measure the voltage between the Black/Yellow + terminal and body chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage? If yes, then you need to go to the harness for testing.
If No, then you most likely have an open in the Black/Yellow or Yellow/Black wire between the EACV and the Main Relay.

[Demon1024]

Thanks man thats a great reference page! the iacv is suckin air all the time no clickin. i also learned the technical name for a specific rough idle "haunting" unless thats just his term.it's what my fast idler was doing when it came apart.it's a good description though it took me a sec to figure out why he called it that. I got two more salvage yards to look at to try and find the iacv hopefully one has one don't want to shell out another $200 bucks.thanks again!

Anyone want anything from my parts car? i'm going to take the windshield soon no motor, trans, ecu everything else still there i'm sending it to salvage soon marroon/tan

[Demon1024]

i got black blue - blue red + ?????

[LX-incredible]

Found this from a search, this test is similar to what I was talking about.

Disconnect the connector off the EACV again and check the resistance on the units terminals, there should be between 8 and 15 ohms, if not replace the EAVC.

Continue testing:
Next, using your ohm meter and the engine off, check to see if you have continuity to a good chassis ground from each of the terminals on the EACV.
Do you get continuity? If you do:
Replace the EACV
Next, turn on you ignition and measure the voltage on the connector.
Black/Yellow is + and Blue/Red is the - terminal.
Is there voltage present? If Yes:
This completes the testing of the EACV unit. The problem may now lie with the ECU harness or the ECU itself. If no:
Measure the voltage between the Black/Yellow + terminal and body chassis ground.
Is there battery voltage? If yes, then you need to go to the harness for testing.
If No, then you most likely have an open in the Black/Yellow or Yellow/Black wire between the EACV and the Main Relay.

Excelent info! I have blue/red and black/blue as well...

[Demon1024]

Still can't figure this out really isn't the iacv supposed to throw a code? it doesn't anymore
does the comp learn things like this?

[Demon1024]

O.K. i swapped the iacv still does it.
Bt engine in an 88hatch. interior harness under dash from right side changed with 86 hatch as well because the battery was hooked up backwards and started smokin
the problem is intermittent but does it most of the time. i noticed somtimes after a long drive it goes away. Car starts right up and the fast idle is completely closed off but it does high idle anyway if the iacv is plugged in. i can advance the timing to the 20's with no ping and runs great but if i push in the clutch at any speed other than a complete stop the idle goes to 2.5rpms? Any ideas on this one?

if i unplug the iacv the problem goes away. when i got a vss light it went away. can the ecu do this wierd stuff

[Demon1024]

Help!

[POS carb]

i also learned the technical name for a specific rough idle "haunting" unless thats just his term.it's what my fast idler was doing when it came apart.it's a good description though it took me a sec to figure out why he called it that.

BTW, I think it's "hunting" which is when the engine is getting conflicting info from sensors and keeps going up and down randomly trying to stabalize itself but doing a bad job

interesting problem you have there...

you say it idles normal at 0mph but raises once you get rolling. does it come back down to normal when you stop the car or do you have to restart the engine to get the normal idle back?

I think its one of these things:
Idle control motor (which you mentioned you replaced already)
Fast idle system
Vehicle speed sensor related
*or one of the emmissions solenoids is hooked up incorrectly and when you start moving the solenoid opens up and starts functioning incorrectly (like venting to atmosphere instead of being re-routed to vacuum line #10 or whatever).

In the end it has to be something that allows air past the throttle body or that physically opens it (i am not sure I have an LX :b ), most likely the fast idle or the emmissions hoses are hooked up wrong creating a vacuum leak when you start moving.

[Demon1024]

fast idle is completely screwed down
vss was replaced as well made no difference
the egr's an idea tho but wouldn't that throw a cel? i'm going to recheck this system when i get home tho thanks i hope i get this sorted out
no idle goes back down when i stop.

[Demon1024]

o.k. in the past week it's thrown vss cel, and an o2 senosr light. vss is cause my power steering leaks out i guess (not sure where?) but the o2 sensor is new to me i took it off the 86 which has only one does this make a difference? i'll end up buying new ones but i never thought that they'd be different same size one wire.

[Demon1024]

replaced o2 sensors, still crazy
now i'm cleaning the egr again and rechecking the hoses
Rechecked for vac leak but i noticed that carb cleaner or butane when sprayed in the intake actually kills the car! WTF

[Demon1024]

this is turning into more of an update thread isn't it?
Idle is smother now, found small crack in power booster hose and clean egr but still idles crazy moving. i was reading that there is a vss in the dash? the cluster is from the auto maybe this? i really don't want to buy another ecu if i don't have to... is there a way to test it without fancy equipment? upd: FOUND IT


ok thats an easy test....

[Demon1024]

it wasn't the ecu the dash was hooked up wronghttp://a317.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/18/l_1ac598313f4bc7f4d3f913b8e5f87664.jpg
it was the yellow arrow wire (it's brown) it was hooked to the green arrow side it went to the red arrow and now alls good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)

Edit this is incorrect it's supposed to go one the green arrow i don't know why it fixed it. still has problems


Fixed it with a new cluster lol
Still not sure which part it was

[Demon1024]

Fixed it with a new cluster lol
Still not sure which part it was

If someone gets to the bottom of this please lemme know.

I fixed my problem with a new instrument cluster, tried changing out the reed to no effect

[Shane86]

Fixed it with a new cluster lol
Still not sure which part it was

If someone gets to the bottom of this please lemme know.

I fixed my problem with a new instrument cluster, tried changing out the reed to no effect

Nice work