Radius Arm Bushings

[2drSE-i]

getting ready to replace these bad boys with their prothane brothers....shop manual = no help... anybody got a clue how to replace these suckers???

[xvok]

done this to and rx-7 b4 kinda a pita but baicscley take apart have penatrating oil in a spray can ready and the get some punchs un bolt dowse the bushing in penatrating oil and try to punch it out. for the new ones get some grese put it around the outside eges and the use a vice to push them in reinstal the parts don't forget to torque down bolts to spec and there you go

[LX-incredible]

Remove the nut on the front end of the strut rod, break loose the back-up nut and then remove the two bolts on the control arm. Installation is reverse of removal. Tighten the back nuts against each other, then 32 ft/lbs for the end nut. You will likely need to check the alignment afterwards, as the position of the nuts determines how far forward the wheel sits...

[2drSE-i]

i didnt think it would be too difficult. the only thing that really threw me off is the metal frame piece (crossmember? got no clue) that it goes in to.

[LX-incredible]

You can leave the crossmember in place. Try to center the wheel in the well before tightening the nuts. I eyeballed it, and had them check alignment afterwards. It wound up not needing an adjustment, but a good idea to check. Torque the two bolts the hold the radius rod to the control arm to 40 ft/lbs.

[cygnus x-1]

This might help:

https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/honda_parts_list.php?hp_queried_components=0&hp_series_id=567&hp_series_model=ACCORD&hp_series_year=1989&hp_series_door_ext_grade=2DR+SEI&hp_series_transmission=5MT&hp_series_slsareacd=KA&hp_system=F&hp_component=B++29

C|

[Oldblueaccord]

They really only effect caster. The bolts that go into the lower control arm are at and akward angle it may take some extensions to get at them.


wp

[2drSE-i]

ya ive done a control arm before. Thanks guys!

[2drSE-i]

so i feel really silly lol...looked in my haynes manual today and its in there....very detailed directions. So if anyone has questions consult the haynes manual...which actually helped for once.

[LX-incredible]

The Haynes manual is great for that straight forward stuff like that... and the wiring diagrams, but they can keep the rest. They say you need to pull the axle to get to the alt on LX-i models!

[2drSE-i]

you really do...if your replacing it. I had to when i replaced mine, my shop did too the last time...well the charged me for it anyway lol.

[LX-incredible]

No, you don't. That's what pisses me off with chiltons and haynes. They either have you remove more parts than necessary, leave out parts that need to be removed, or not even have the part listed. I only use them for torque specs and wiring diagrams now.

[2drSE-i]

well even the torque specs are a little off. Do you have a shop manual? if not id suggest you download one haha. Even the shop manual said to pull the axle...huh howd u do it then?

[LX-incredible]

I have one. Remove the air cleaner box and it comes out through the top.

[Demon1024]

I'm just going to try and tighten mine down for now see if that helps. as for chiltons it says 30ftlb on the trans fill hole i cant possibly see that as necessary.

[LX-incredible]

I'm just going to try and tighten mine down for now see if that helps. as for chiltons it says 30ftlb on the trans fill hole i cant possibly see that as necessary.

What? The nut on the front of the radius arm? If it's loose, chances are the bushings are gone and tightening it won't help...

[2drSE-i]

ya i was lost on what he was talking about anyway...

[Bglad420]

What are the part numbers for those bushings?

[2drSE-i]

Prothane PN: 8-1201-BL

the BL just means black, they may come in red too, but really what difference does it make you cant see them anyway. When they get to you they will probably say Civic/CRX strut rod bushing, same difference

[88Accord-DX]

What has help me when putting new bushings on the strut rod, was to either count or mark the threads with a paint marker on the back side. Where the rod goes through the frame. It'll keep the caster pretty much where it was at. If you get one side out of wack, more than likely your car will pull to one side.

[2drSE-i]

it shows them doing that in the haynes manual actually.

[frantik]

the BL just means black, they may come in red too, but really what difference does it make

dude at least 1hp for every red part on your car (+5 for red Rs)

[Bglad420]

I ordered the reds, so all my bushings will be red.

[2drSE-i]

I ordered the reds, so all my bushings will be red.

haha but like i said, you wont be able to see these ones. I must say though, i sand blasted my LCA's and painted them black, they look bad-ass with my red bushings in them.

[MessyHonda]

where did you guys buy the bushings....my front end needs some bushings after its been lowered so its more harsh on the suspension.

[2drSE-i]

i bought mine from summit, but i believe you can get them through nopi or even suspension.com. although suspension.com is a bit harder to navigate, thats where i got all my prothane part #'s. Although its been said before, DO NOT buy the rear LCA/Shock bushing set.

[MessyHonda]

i bought mine from summit, but i believe you can get them through nopi or even suspension.com. although suspension.com is a bit harder to navigate, thats where i got all my prothane part #'s. Although its been said before, DO NOT buy the rear LCA/Shock bushing set.


how much did the set run you?

[2drSE-i]

i dont remember to tell the truth...not more than 20 bucks i dont think. They are actually cheaper to buy than Honda bushings.

[Bglad420]

Mine were 17.86 shipped.