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View Full Version : few pics of the oil cooler project



lostforawhile
09-12-2007, 06:27 PM
progress on the oil cooler project.
the blower is now mounted to the cooler shroud,by some aluminum adaptors i made, this entire assembly will fit nicely where the battery is now,along with the coolant overflow tank. this is a small high velocity blower,it will be activated by a temp switch, so when the filter adaptor starts sending oil to the cooler at about 185 degrees, the switch will turn on the fan,for a small blower,this moves a LOT of air
http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiK-4POynI/AAAAAAAAAPo/ZXKDhv4ZWs8/S4020169.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh3.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiK_IPOyoI/AAAAAAAAAPw/Lt3BJi0RpoI/S4020168.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiK_YPOypI/AAAAAAAAAP4/SdYMYDFllGA/S4020167.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiK_oPOyqI/AAAAAAAAAQA/gWE1IUYa1qA/S4020166.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiK_4POyrI/AAAAAAAAAQI/gPCUsx9RJq0/S4020165.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiQnoPOysI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/CuW_wh6xXzg/S4020163.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh3.google.com/lostforawhile/RuiQoIPOytI/AAAAAAAAAQY/_MZ-1xLe0io/S4020164.jpg?imgmax=512
[img]

lostforawhile
09-12-2007, 06:47 PM
i forgot to mention,the cooling air is going to come from the hood scoop. once the other carbs are in place, my existing air intake tube and air cleaner will not be used anymore, i'll build a scoop tray that is attached to the bracket,that now braces the air intake tube, i'm going to look for a cheap cold air intake on E-bay,then use the nice looking tubing to fabricate the piping back to the blower.

drago742
09-12-2007, 08:16 PM
where did u get that blower ?

lostforawhile
09-12-2007, 08:32 PM
where did u get that blower ?
E-BAy it has a gm part number, the GM number is 90 493 287 , it has a sticker over the gm number that is 370047-aa 06-25-97 . it's a bosch blower, the bosch number is BPA 12 V 0 130 007 810 with YQ in large letters. hope that helps.

wprocomp
09-12-2007, 11:33 PM
I would say mount it right behind the grill area or bumper opening-I like the sheetmetal work but the blower is a little meh for me imo

labeledsk8r
09-13-2007, 12:03 AM
will the blower have problems if it rains??? sucking up water or something like that? or do you not drive the hatchy in the rain, also is there an exhaust pipe aswell to get the heat back out of the engne bay? but still seams like a "cool" project (pun intended) lol sweet work

Cheeseburger
09-13-2007, 12:49 AM
nice

lostforawhile
09-13-2007, 02:38 AM
will the blower have problems if it rains??? sucking up water or something like that? or do you not drive the hatchy in the rain, also is there an exhaust pipe aswell to get the heat back out of the engne bay? but still seams like a "cool" project (pun intended) lol sweet workwell it mounts where the battery is now,i'm moving the battery. i'll just pull in ar from under the scoop is all. you really don't need a pipe to get heat back out of the engine bay, you just blow it out the cooler and it's pulled down and out,just like heat from the radiator. that bit of heat under the hood won't hurt anything,the main idea is to remove it from the oil itself and cool the oil.

2oodoor
09-13-2007, 10:31 AM
what made you decide to use a quite capable oil cooler like that? I have seen them like that on air cooled engines, and some not so stout on like trucks and police cars. It is very impressive project but I thought oil needed to reach operating temps to work best. I do see where the A20 has had oil seal issues from cooked oil but I am not sure if it was from lack of maitenance or is it oil getting too hot because of the engines oiling system design.

I am not knocking it, I just was curious about the concept and is it something I need to do at some point... :wave:

MessyHonda
09-13-2007, 10:33 AM
how hot does the oil get? when i rebuild i want a oil temp guage.

2ndGenGuy
09-13-2007, 10:41 AM
Hmm yeah, what IS the optimal oil temp range for these engines? Is there a spec in a Honda service manual somewhere?

2oodoor
09-13-2007, 11:29 AM
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46248&highlight=oil+cooler
some Honda engines use a small cooler

I did a search and it seems to be an open, debate as to it being a worthy modification.. now that was not my intention to open that back up Lost...
I think of my D15 civic and some things I learned along the way. The thermostat was stuck open on it for evidentley a long time. That caused sludge to start forming because it was not warming up properly. Also the cylinders can start to go egg shaped if the engine never reachs optimal temp.and is continuously run for hours that way. Now that is coolant temp, oil temp would be a little different.

drago742
09-13-2007, 04:08 PM
E-BAy it has a gm part number, the GM number is 90 493 287 , it has a sticker over the gm number that is 370047-aa 06-25-97 . it's a bosch blower, the bosch number is BPA 12 V 0 130 007 810 with YQ in large letters. hope that helps.

thanks i was lookin for something like that to try some idea my friend tought of

lostforawhile
09-13-2007, 05:21 PM
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46248&highlight=oil+cooler
some Honda engines use a small cooler

I did a search and it seems to be an open, debate as to it being a worthy modification.. now that was not my intention to open that back up Lost...
I think of my D15 civic and some things I learned along the way. The thermostat was stuck open on it for evidentley a long time. That caused sludge to start forming because it was not warming up properly. Also the cylinders can start to go egg shaped if the engine never reachs optimal temp.and is continuously run for hours that way. Now that is coolant temp, oil temp would be a little different.
the oil filter adaptor i'm getting has a thermostat, when the oil is below 185 it bypasses the cooler, the valve starts to open about 185,and at 200 degrees all the oil is routed through the cooler. you need the oil to reach a certain temp because it needs to burn off moisture that is a normal byproduct of combustion. 185 to 200 is a good operating range. cooler oil is always a worthwhile modification, that 20 degree drop is a huge improvement for the engine. it also helps keep your oil pressure up while idling and in stop and go traffic, the hotter the oil gets,the thinner it gets. i've never heard of the egg shape thing,but of course sludge forms,because the crap in the oil can't burn off. if your pcv system is malfunctioning,it can also cause sludge to form, because the stuff boiled out of the oil isn't pulled out of the engine. I got the cooler because it was a freebee, it's an aircraft cooler, a couple of the fins were bent, so it can't go on an airplane. it was marked junk,but i pressure tested it and it's fine. more pics coming shortly.

mushroom_toy
09-13-2007, 06:23 PM
You should get me one of those....looks like a nice thing to have!

lostforawhile
09-14-2007, 02:42 AM
almost done,deceided to pull air in from the factory air location under the fusebox,going to modify it slightly is all.
http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/RupjAYPOywI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/Q-lcdHmEuZ0/S4020170.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RupjAIPOyvI/AAAAAAAAAQs/hKFbwJvlxWY/S4020171.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/Rupi_4POyuI/AAAAAAAAAQk/8FatpAdwv7M/S4020172.jpg?imgmax=512

LX-incredible
09-14-2007, 11:43 PM
Cool, a little too much for me, but great work! What did you use for the filter adapter? I'm using this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayden-Oil-Cooler-Thermo-Adapter-Nissan-Subaru-Honda_W0QQitemZ8048722469QQihZ019QQcategoryZ46095Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem It was the only one that I could find with an internal thermostat.

lostforawhile
09-15-2007, 07:15 AM
Cool, a little too much for me, but great work! What did you use for the filter adapter? I'm using this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayden-Oil-Cooler-Thermo-Adapter-Nissan-Subaru-Honda_W0QQitemZ8048722469QQihZ019QQcategoryZ46095Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem It was the only one that I could find with an internal thermostat.the one i'm getting is from oreilies, I looked it up in thier catalog, and the recomended filter that goes with it, screws right on to an extra oil filter base i have perfectly, so i know it will fit. if the oil filter fits the other side of the adaptor is a mirror image of the filter. it might have been a hayden if i think about it. that same adaptor fits a lot of japanese cars. it's actually pretty easy to find because a lot of hondas use this same filter including a lot of ludes. I think my wifes 98 even uses the same filter if i remember correctly. you also have the option of using an oil filter relocation kit. and an inline oil cooler thermostat. that moves the filter out from the back of the block.
http://lh3.google.com/lostforawhile/Ruvw1YPOyyI/AAAAAAAAARg/OdJ7eAswc6E/S4020175.jpg?imgmax=512

lostforawhile
09-15-2007, 12:08 PM
OK i test fitted it in the location,this is about where it would sit after removing the battery to the hatch area. I need to pull the fender and remove the plastic restrictor thing for the intake,then bolt a flange to the area where the hole is. I think I'm going to run AN hard lines,then flexible lines from the filter adaptor to the hard lines. the cooler is fixed anyway,only the lines attached to the engine need to move. a lot of those wires will get moved with the battery. especially the wire for the amps,it will only need a short line. I have a battery disconnect solonoid from an airplane,this would cut off the battery with a switch. that way the battery is always off when the car is off.
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwusYPOy3I/AAAAAAAAASM/JhkywBcM4Es/S4020176.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwuroPOy2I/AAAAAAAAASE/6Vb2KdF2Qjs/S4020177.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwurYPOy1I/AAAAAAAAAR8/6SUuWiEj88M/S4020178.jpg?imgmax=512

forrest89sei
09-15-2007, 12:10 PM
OK i test fitted it in the location,this is about where it would sit after removing the battery to the hatch area. I need to pull the fender and remove the plastic restrictor thing for the intake,then bolt a flange to the area where the hole is. I think I'm going to run AN hard lines,then flexible lines from the filter adaptor to the hard lines. the cooler is fixed anyway,only the lines attached to the engine need to move. a lot of those wires will get moved with the battery. especially the wire for the amps,it will only need a short line. I have a battery disconnect solonoid from an airplane,this would cut off the battery with a switch. that way the battery is always off when the car is off.
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwusYPOy3I/AAAAAAAAASM/JhkywBcM4Es/S4020176.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwuroPOy2I/AAAAAAAAASE/6Vb2KdF2Qjs/S4020177.jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RuwurYPOy1I/AAAAAAAAAR8/6SUuWiEj88M/S4020178.jpg?imgmax=512



Looks Great :thumbup:

Civic Accord Honda
09-15-2007, 05:38 PM
looks cool man

Cheeseburger
09-15-2007, 06:36 PM
looking good tim

LX-incredible
09-15-2007, 09:07 PM
That looks awesome installed!

lostforawhile
09-15-2007, 09:20 PM
That looks awesome installed!well it's not installed yet,but thats exactly what it will look like when it is. except for the hose being hooked up to the opening in the inner fender. i do have to add a couple of hymn joints to brace the top of the cooler,no big deal,and do all the bracketry to hold the radiator hoses in place and the mounting bracketry. I emailed a guy i saw on a ford forum,who is selling a moroso battery box,the good sealed one, for only 50 bucks,they are normally 100 bucks new. so i can get this battery relocated. going to take a while,i am VERY ticky about running high current cables inside of the car. so everything has to be fused and very carefully run to get power back up to the front. once i get that done, I can get the cooler mounted up there permantly and start running oil lines.

lostforawhile
09-22-2007, 03:06 PM
more work on the oil cooler, stupid rain,the blower is in place now i just need to wire it

http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/RvWdzZnvj-I/AAAAAAAAAYg/u6nllkgmLdc/S4020211.JPG?imgmax=512
http://lh3.google.com/lostforawhile/RvWdzpnvj_I/AAAAAAAAAYo/lCXHP0bawEc/S4020210.JPG?imgmax=512
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/RvWdz5nvkAI/AAAAAAAAAYw/6n_G6ZEwwHM/S4020209.JPG?imgmax=512
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/RvWd0JnvkBI/AAAAAAAAAY4/raqsVRc-hpY/S4020208.JPG?imgmax=512

lostforawhile
09-22-2007, 04:32 PM
heres the oil filter adaptor i won,i think i trust this solid billet one much better then a cast one.
http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/mmpics/bocp1.jpg
http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com/mmpics/bocp2.jpg

lostforawhile
10-14-2007, 02:23 PM
it's on hold right now,for the washer tank to be moved,then the battery will get moved into the washer tanks place,then the oil cooler goes where the battery is

LX-incredible
10-14-2007, 02:38 PM
Does that one have a thermostat?

lostforawhile
11-27-2007, 09:39 PM
Cool, a little too much for me, but great work! What did you use for the filter adapter? I'm using this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayden-Oil-Cooler-Thermo-Adapter-Nissan-Subaru-Honda_W0QQitemZ8048722469QQihZ019QQcategoryZ46095Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem It was the only one that I could find with an internal thermostat.i just found your post,you can get an external thermostat from summit then you don't have to worry about having one in the adaptor. plus it keeps a little bit of oil always going through the cooler and prevents air pockets.

lostforawhile
05-31-2008, 01:55 PM
more done,while i'm doing the wiring i'm putting in the battery cables to the back,i think since i;'m not driving the car right now, i will set it up to temp use the old battery until i get the odyssey. i can just put the battery in the hatch to back it into and out of the garage. that way i can mount the cooler and start figuring where everything needs to go. whern i get the odyssey i can mount it permanently in there. right now making the pieces that duct air out the opposite side of the cooler. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020037.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020038.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020039.jpg

lostforawhile
07-07-2008, 08:08 AM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020134.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020135.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020136.jpg

lostforawhile
07-07-2008, 08:14 AM
at the moment i'm waiting to move the battery and fundage to buy the sandwitch adaptor and the oil thermostat will be about a 160 total for the two,you don't want to cheap out and buy a thermostat with small oil passages and a cheap cast sandwich adaptor. i already have a roll of -8 line which saves me about 70 bucks, and already have the fittings. i haven't quite figured out yet if i want a pressure activated switch, or a temp activated switch for the fan.

lostforawhile
04-08-2010, 02:58 PM
I'll have to search the pictures for one of the oil filter adapter, it's been in for a while, but here's the oil thermostat. it routes the oil back to the engine if the temp is under 180, once it hits 180 the valve starts allowing oil to flow to the cooler, the valve is fail safe, if the cooler plugs oil will still flow to the engine. the cooler is always full of oil,it's just not circulating unless the valve closes. this prevents air bubbles and foaming. i still need to make a bracket. it sits on top of the remote oil filter bracket. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021249.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021250.jpg

lostforawhile
04-08-2010, 03:06 PM
here's the adapter at the back of the engine, on the A20 you have to remove the oil filter adapter and either grind down or mill down the center threaded part. it's too long to screw down most filter adapters. i drilled a hole in one ear on the factory filter adapter, and safety wired the remote filter adapter to it, this prevents it from ever rotating and coming loose. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020317-1.jpg

lostforawhile
04-08-2010, 09:47 PM
this is typically whats involved in making a cardboard mockup of a bracket, you have to calculate all the dimensions and bolt centers, then lay everything out on cardboard. you are making a flat pattern of exactly what the steel piece will look like. I typically end up using a digital caliper, steel ruler, various pencils, set of hole punches, scissors, exacto knife, sometimes dividers. the idea is to make the part from in your head in 3d, then you can bolt it in place to make sure it fits. I use flat rate postal service boxes for cardboard, they are free, and the cardboard is just right for making mockups. A typical pattern takes about 2-3 hours to get exactly right.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021260.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021261.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021262.jpg

lostforawhile
04-09-2010, 09:29 AM
Here's the cardboard pattern laid out flat on a piece of steel.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021265.jpg
after shearing all the edges
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021266.jpg
this plate is too thick to bend by itself, so I clamped it in a vise, and Bobby Brock heated it red hot with the torch while I hammered it over at a 90 degree angle.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021267.jpg
finished bracket next to cardboard bracket
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021268.jpg
assembly on engine
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021269.jpg
entire remote filter assembly and bracket, it's only secured by two bolts at the bottom. so on the back of the thermostat housing.i'll weld on another bracket, and attach a small heim joint between it and the strut tower, this will take a lot of load off of the bracket
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021270.jpg

lostforawhile
04-09-2010, 06:24 PM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021272.jpg

lostforawhile
04-10-2010, 02:53 PM
This is what it looks like installed, thats a heavily modified air jet controller bracket, the two factory bolts at the bottom form the two bottom mounting points, and the two heim joints form the third mounting mount, Yes I know it's dirty, I'm going to start masking and painting sections of underhood as the parts go in for the final time http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021276.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021272.jpg

lostforawhile
04-11-2010, 07:06 AM
I might start taking sections off at a time and painting the underhood. :rolleyes:

A18A
04-12-2010, 08:09 AM
do you happen to know how many AN fittings/lines you have installed in your engine bay? lol

lostforawhile
04-12-2010, 10:13 AM
76,...................... -4, -6, -8 and a couple of -10 plus line and a bunch of special fittings I had to fabricate to adapt the lines to the car

lostforawhile
04-12-2010, 12:19 PM
I finally got the temp switch in for the fan, the adapter they sent was for a -6 not a -8, I ended up finally having to drill and tap a fitting myself. but it's in. the temp switch is the black thing on the bottom of the fitting. It switches on the blower fan at 170 as the cooler is coming online.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021285.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021286.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021287.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021288.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021289.jpg