Pics of Head development work

[rjudgey]

Right guys i know how you love your pics here's some eye candy for you, halfway stage of a full blown N/A racing head.

http://a112.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/122/l_b1ea6a44433ebd20add6a8ec0fb2d8a7.jpg

Here you have the inlet ports with the injector ports welded up and remachined nice no flow disturbance going to be happening here!!

http://a845.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/127/l_effa1cb1c9b78df19f5551e77a401cd4.jpg

Closer look at the welding work done, this port is stock apart from the welding, it is yet to be shaped, flowed or worked on yet that's in head episode 2 attack of the sanding drums!! Due out soon!! (hopefully when i get this moving business out the way!)

http://a877.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/72/l_4e1e6e8c9658328afad933a2bd39f81c.jpg

Surface of the head still needs skimming thats a job do be done when the chambers have been finished to remove any marks that may accidently happen when machining the chambers.

http://a496.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/111/l_0ce0ceb58a8ec8af0906831156f3f9cf.jpg

Closeup of the chamber these have just had valve seats re-cut for the larger valves so still need to be worked on polished, roof and walls need to be blended in and opened up as much as possible

http://a155.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/112/l_fe7930948e342c0457562e97167621a2.jpg

Pic of the chamber with the new large valves in as you can see it's all getting bit cramped in there, going to be working out just how close they get to hitting each other as i'll be wanting to start speccing up cam profiles soon hopefully 285-290 degree cams with 11mm lift will be okay but i'll be checking first.

http://a622.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/67/l_7b514f4158bf2f4e88f3a526d3b8209d.jpg

Pics of the inlet valve on the left this is half finished awaiting a final cut to reduce the seat width to 1mm and also my special finish i apply to them on my lathe, the one on the right is the exhaust valve this one is finished with 1mm seat and left highly polished for max flow.

[2oodoor]

I want one!

keep up the good work

[Vanilla Sky]

VERY nice. I'm glad you've posted pics of your work in progress. How much power do you see this as being good for?

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh god! A20 pr0n!!!

[rjudgey]

stop perving again 2nd gen guy you've allready seen them at PP.com you headophile ;0)

Vanilla the head should be good for achieving between 220-230bhp maybe a little more it's all going to be down to the cam profilesand what the final CR ratio i can aqueeze out will be won't know that till i get the pistons done and decide just howmuch i want to lop off the head, having some cam work done by JG engine dynamics on that front so quite excited to see what it comes up like, not looking for anything too agressive as i think the valves may end up getting just a little too close to each other or the pistons. One thing is for sure it's going to need one heck of a custom job on the header and 2 1/4 inch mandrel bent system for sure to get the exhaust gas out quick enough. Be interesting to see how it all works out with the long inlet runners being a long stroke engine should be quite good expecting lots of torque. I love experimenting if it doesn't work out i'll go back to the ET1 design which i still prefer really but then experiment with runner length on that head and also maybe invest in some bike carbs at some point.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man, I am a headophile! I've got my EK1 head down at the shop right now getting rebuilt, also have an EL head at home that is shiny and new. Maybe it's time for some therapy. My A20 head is next...

Have you put these motors on a dyno? I'm mega-curious to see a dynochart for them, just to see where they generate peak power, see the torque curve, etc. I love charts... Might take the ES2 down for another dyno run just to see what bolt-ons do for a stock motor. :D

[MessyHonda]

like i said over at PP....i want one....what springs and retainers are you using? how high of an RPM are you going to go 8k?

[snoopyloopy]

sweet! i need one of those. oh shoot, i should just buy openloop coupe and have something similar. hmm...

[2drSE-i]

jesus man that looks awesome. Your using a18 valve springs right? my favorite part is the injector ports....wow is all i have to say.

[rjudgey]

Yeah the injector ports worked out real nice, was going to get the gap in front of the guides welded up as well but decided not too performance versus cost was not enough especially as it's N/A air gets sucked rather than pushed through with a turbo if it was for forced induction it would have been more worth it. trouble is if i had it welded the guides would have needed to have some out, new hole drilled and new guides fitted just toomuch as i'd probably would have had custom bronze ones made too.

This will do to start with been reading up on some research onto Rover K series engines in Caterhams (lotus 7) and lotus elise's some guy had got nearly 250bhp out of a 1700cc with 32mm inlet valves considering they have similar stroke and bore sizes/ratio to our engines it's given me more hope to be able to easily achieve 250bhp with this following engine, only trouble is it's going to need one mother of custom job on the header, and also some tip top design on the cam profile, and definately going to need some aftermarket rods and forged pistons.

I think if i can get 11:1 or 11.5:1 CR ratio, custom header, better rods, forged pistons, my usual tip top headwork hoefully will hit my target or get damn close considering was knocking out nearly 200bhp with stock block and just a well moddified stock valve size ET1 head with webers and a fast road camshaft, and stock moddified cast exhaust header and 2.25" crush bent exhaust system 250bhp should be well attainable really. But when your aiming for more and more bhp it just gets' harder and harder and not to mention more expensive to get those last 10-15 pony's. I think getting 220-230 won't be that hard getting 240-250 or more is going to cost a fortune and be a right sod to get i'm imagining it's going to come down to camshaft specs really more than anything else. Get that wrong and it's going to run like a dog well a greyhound at least get it right will run like a cheetah!!

Anyways it's all going to be fun experimenting with this can't wait to start working on the head hopefully will have a bit of time sunday so may start work on it then. Looking at around 60 hours labour going to go into this head so maybe a few months before it's totally finished then it's time to start on the block!!!

[rjudgey]

2nd gen guy, i've got dyno graphs on some of the earlier ones, unfortunately the ET1 blew up before i got it on the rolling road again it was about 185bhp at the flywheel but i'd managed to tweek it a little and had fitted another cam was easily around just under 200bhp it ran 1/4 mile in 14.5s with street tyres and a oil soaked clutch that acted as traction control ;0)

I also have a dyno of a A18 head i was doing some research on with big inlet valves that produced 176bhp trouble is the dyno i use is crap doesn't give you rpm's or anything just mph pn the bottom and KW down the left side i can't undestand it? Next time going to try and find a better Rolling road i have a mate who's got one so might try his out had the Beemer done on that one but it's got a ride height issues with FWD cars so not sure if mine will fit onto it.

Prefer to tune my engines on teh drag strip i think it's a more accurate way of doing it as air is being pushed into the engine bay from the car moving, that and the engine isn't running hot from sitting in same place i know they have those big fans but not the same as driving 70-100mph down a road.

[Vanilla Sky]

My goal is a very streetable 180 BHP with weber carbs. I have DCOE 40's now, and I know they won't get me what I need. I'll need some 45's to get what I'm looking for, and I accept that. The 40's will get me started.

60 hours is pretty quick to get a head worked up that nicely. I've seen shops claim to take that long to do a basic cleanup.

I personally see 250 BHP as attainable, albeit with a very cold-natured, ill-behaved engine.

[2ndGenGuy]

2nd gen guy, i've got dyno graphs on some of the earlier ones, unfortunately the ET1 blew up before i got it on the rolling road again it was about 185bhp at the flywheel but i'd managed to tweek it a little and had fitted another cam was easily around just under 200bhp it ran 1/4 mile in 14.5s with street tyres and a oil soaked clutch that acted as traction control ;0)

I also have a dyno of a A18 head i was doing some research on with big inlet valves that produced 176bhp trouble is the dyno i use is crap doesn't give you rpm's or anything just mph pn the bottom and KW down the left side i can't undestand it? Next time going to try and find a better Rolling road i have a mate who's got one so might try his out had the Beemer done on that one but it's got a ride height issues with FWD cars so not sure if mine will fit onto it.

Prefer to tune my engines on teh drag strip i think it's a more accurate way of doing it as air is being pushed into the engine bay from the car moving, that and the engine isn't running hot from sitting in same place i know they have those big fans but not the same as driving 70-100mph down a road.

I agree. It seems a good tune can be started on a dyno, to get good air fuel ratios, and pull some good peak numbers. But to really get it fine tuned, you gotta actually drive the car. The dyno won't tell you what it's like under all conditions. Humidity, temperature and other atmospheric conditions can cause large changes in the results of your dyno graph, especially if the dynamometer is inside a climate-controlled shop. I don't understand those MPH dyno charts either. I think they're kinda worthless except to get a peak HP number. Doesn't tell you anything about what your engine is doing through the RPM range... Sometimes the computer just can't replace the butt dyno. :)

[AccordEpicenter]

rich you do awesome work man

[guaynabo89]

Looking good.

Loving the valves. Where did you get them and what kinda car were they for? Did you change the exhaust valve guides at all to run those or anythign of the sort? Do you machine the stem some and just flatten the head? Do you ever use them with boost? Being that the heads are so slim have you ever had any problems with them as far as durability, reliability?

How about some stock valve comparison pics to the ones you machined?

[rjudgey]

Thanks just love tinkering really hope to start on head tomorrow.

I'll try take some pics of the valves side by side each other. The exhaust valve is custom made, same stem length and width just bigger head 37.25mm to be exact the inlet valves are old exhaust valves remachine to 32mm have had 33mm for some reason the engineer felt 32mm would be safer, I still thin 33mm would have been fine but whats done is done, he also took a shed load of metal out the ports and throats without my permission which will cause me problems with the work i wanted to do but i won't find out howmuch if at all untill i start porting and flowing the ports. Although i've been using this guy for a while he's starting to get sloppy and expensive so i think i'll have to find someone else to do the work means having to post stuff but finding good machinist's is starting to become a real problem, even seriously considering sending some stuff to JG engine dynamics to do.

Oh well i'm sure it'll be good just need to get a block together that won't grenade when i start hitting 8-8.5k rpm.

Reliability wise not had any issues with N/A application they do crack easily if you over advance the ignition and have detonation but thats the same with any ally head. Only weak spot is cam bearings when using stiff springs and high lift.duration cams, you just need to polish them up every 15-20k miles, to be honest thats probably due to not enough oil pressure from stock oil pump so will invest in toga HV pump next time and see how that goes.

[MessyHonda]

with high compression you need to run a high octane/ron gas so you would detonate. but still this project looks nice....i cant wait till i start building my engine and trans...my goal is only 160hp.

[rjudgey]

Fuel isn't a problem in U.K. we only have high octane stuff here also lot of road cars are running CR ratio's that high anyways so think it will be pretty safe if not i'll have to machine some more out the chambers!!

If you have the right induction and exhaust setup 160bhp with a programeable ecu is easily attainable. My stock 1.8l block with a mildly worked head and twin webers nearly kicked that much out. Stock 2.0l block with slightly more moddified head put down 170bhp, stock ET1 with 2.0l internals and well moddified head put down nearly 200bhp with the same cast manifold and crappy bent stainless exhaust fitted still.

If you did a big valve conversion some head work, camshaft, B18 manifold and big TB something like 64mm-68mm, bigger injectors, aftermarket ECU and crank fired ignition, header with 2.25" main pipe and mandrel bent 2.25" system you should be getting around 170-180bhp easily.

[carotman]

Awesome work!

This reminds me I have to get a different exhaust for my car :( the stock 1.6 inch isn't up to the task.

[bobafett]

Seriously awesome!
Makes me glad that I am building mine!

Keep it up we love this shit...

[rjudgey]

Yeah just a little restrictive going to 2" mandrel bent will give you a huge boost 2.25" bit more but only if you have some seriou mods going on.

I remember when i had my first custom exhaust fitted, stock cast 4-2 manifold ported, polished an matched to custom downpipe and the head ports, 2.25" but crush bent bends. When i took it for a test drive nearly wet my pants was so much faster took me a week to get use to it then i wanted more :)

[rjudgey]

For those who wanted more on the valves some more pics.

http://a192.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/90/l_3f133909e8010a900cea456da899f00f.jpg

http://a596.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/94/l_a2446c15cb512ef5b62b5f1668e0ed83.jpg

http://a331.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/102/l_2c994ceefa8bfd46cf8f02fba115788a.jpg

http://a772.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/114/l_481629d0663dba3ffd4990d052e5257b.jpg

[LX-incredible]

So the stockers are on the ends and the new ones in the center? Looks quite a bit larger.

[2drSE-i]

2mm larger on both valves yea? looks awesome man.

[2ndGenGuy]

So when you had those exhaust valves made, did you just tell the machine shop to make them? Or did they start with something else? Or did you go to a custom shop that specializes in that stuff? Did you just take the old valve in and say "Hey make me this valve, but 2mm bigger?" About how much was that?

[rjudgey]

The inlet valves are 33mm machined from old exhaust valves the new exhaust valve is 37.5mm and is custom made to order, basically same stem length as the stock unit but had a 2.25mm diameter increase.

I was originally going to get all 12 custom made and to have them with 6.5mm stems and waisted as well but i stuck to a more sensible budget so went with re-using some old exhaust valves i had allready machined but one was bent so another exhaust valve was found and machined to match, then all 8 were then fitted and re-machined to fit the A20 head and the new seats cut. The exhaust valves were made and then the old seats re-cut to suit the new valve size.

The cost of custom valves to be made was $30 each which isn't too bad and good as in we only need 4 unlike a 16 valve engine which would have had 8!! Also being N/A engine having just one giant size exhaust valve doesn't impede flow toomuch especially if your running a High CR ratio. Turbo application bigger the better and the more off is more benefitial.

Along with my exhaust port reshaping the exhaust side of the head is extremely efficient and with the inlet ports being nice and big as well as the valves and the reshaping of the inlet ports to remove the injector ports should see some big gains in flow, still not sure how benefitial modifying the area around the inlet guide would be but again costs are causing me to draw a line on that one. In an Ideal money free world i would have had the guides removed, then have the area around them welded up and have it re-drilled for the new guide and then fit new bronze guides then reshape the whole area where the welding and the guide was done and have it a nice smooth shape bending towards the valve head and seats. That would be the ultimate head along with 33.5mm valves with new inserts, and all the valves with a 6.5mm stem diameter. Maybe later on i'll do this but we'll see what kind of figures we can get with this much cheaper option, so far it has run me $700 and will be another $100 after a skim and chemical bath to get rid of all gunk and metal shavings from inside. But when i've finished it will be a head that is worth 3 times that really and should be capable of producing power figures of upto 240-250bhp maybe little bit more.

After this engine i really want to play around with B20A head as they have much more potential than A20 they also have a lot more to gain as the basic design with quite restrictive ports due to severe valve guide protrusion, with some reshaping and maybe some help with bronze guides being fitted i think B20A has a huge amount of potential, it also has some really big valves and seats allready fitted inlet valves could be left the same or increase to 34mm and the exhaust valves can easily be fitted with aftermarket B20A5 stainless steel inlet valves which could be remachined to 30mm to fit on the stock exhaust valve seats. Combined with aftermarket rods and some nice 82mm pistons from B18 or B16 engine i think you could easily crack 250bhp or more with a huge ITB setup and the right cams. I know it's not a revving engine but with the valve size increases and high CR and huge ITB's and nice custom inlet manifold with super long runners like mine i think it can be done. Just got so much going on i haven't got time to think about the B20A car yet!!

[MessyHonda]

nice stuff since i have 2 heads that means i can take off my exhust valves and make them into inlets...il guess il stick with 32mm also.

[rjudgey]

If you can find some one with Serdi valve seat and valve cutting equipment and had your guides reemed perfectly you should be able to use 33mm. Bit pissed off with my machinist he's done a bit of a crap job, he's cut the seats so deep that i've had to machine loads out the chamber to get the seats flush with the chamber roof drop in CR ration is going to be hideous i'll have to cut 1mm of the head to get it back a bit. Thinking about getting the spare head out and having that sent away to JG engine dynamics to have valves and seats machined properly.

Going to machine the chambers and measure the cc and see how bad it is first though.

[snoopyloopy]

mmmm, that b20a headwork sounds good. i might find a spare b20a head from someone (matt, that means you) to put on the side and build up.

[MessyHonda]

If you can find some one with Serdi valve seat and valve cutting equipment and had your guides reemed perfectly you should be able to use 33mm. Bit pissed off with my machinist he's done a bit of a crap job, he's cut the seats so deep that i've had to machine loads out the chamber to get the seats flush with the chamber roof drop in CR ration is going to be hideous i'll have to cut 1mm of the head to get it back a bit. Thinking about getting the spare head out and having that sent away to JG engine dynamics to have valves and seats machined properly.

Going to machine the chambers and measure the cc and see how bad it is first though.


yeah...for now i will go with 32 since its still going to be a daily driver...if not i will just get a valve angle job.

[rjudgey]

Right then at last some updates!!
Had some fitment issues with the valves and had a few things altered!!
The inlet valves are now 33mm and the exhaust valves are 37.5mm had to have some new ones done and they all now fit on my Honda retainers and they no longer hit the rocker arms!! LOL!! But it is close literally 1.5mm clearance between the rocker arms and retainer edge at TDC!! But what i'm also going to do before final assembly is to stress relieve and polish the underneath of the rocker arms to add about another .5-1mm clearance which should be fine then.

I've completely finished working on the chambers this pic is with the valves all in and the chambers finished, the valve seats are all blended into the roofs with no edges visible and the valve seats are also unshrouded as much as possible without loosing too much CR ratio from increasing chamber volume, i had the head skimmed as well which is why it's nice and shiny took .5mm off it's just on the limit of the safety markers so it has a couple of light skims left for service use. Hoping to have this running within next couple of weeks on an old spare block that's done 15k miles only a A20A1 that was rebuilt and blueprinted but will serve well untill i get my other block rebored and wait for some forged pistons to be made up to suit the lightweight Carrillo rods i have planned to use. With the jump of CR with the forged pistons with 3 valve pockets i hope to get a considerable bhp and torque gain, with this head i'm estimating about 200-210bhp with the block built with CR ratio increase around 220-240bhp depending on the exhaust manifold I'm planning on having custom made at some point!!

Checked the clearance on the 285 degree cam and the valves don't clash probably enough room to squeeze in 295 degree cam and maybe an extra 1-1.5mm lift too!! Now that would be nice!! The valves also have slightly taller stem length so having a more aggressive reprofiled cam made shouldn't be too much of an issue!!

Anyways heres a pic of the cylinder head looking nice and shiny!! Sorry about the wait had house and girlfriend getting in the way over the last year!! LOL!! Now i only have the house to worry about so have more money and time spare!!

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/1/l_5f556d844ae14fbab54f076dbfd3a8ba.jpg

And in case you forgot this will be attaching to it with my modded pair of Weber 45 DCOE's!!

http://a456.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/53/l_c7ba3c458accfcd4bf3ffd9c4b53777f.jpg

[AccordB20A]

amazing work. Your motors are allways beasts. if only someone could do all that to a b20a head for me for cheap

[LX-incredible]

That's beautiful man.

[2ndGenGuy]

Looking good as always! Get videos and dynos of that bad boy when it's running! You need a Prelude back on the road... You've been tinkering with the BMW too much... :D Girlfriend and house you say... ;) I will be hitting you up for one of those manifolds soon.

[A18A]

that looks beautiful

[Civic Accord Honda]

i must go change my underpants now.

[rjudgey]

Thanks guy's i know you like my little engine updates a lot more to come over the next couple of weeks aiming to get this running and on the road by the end of the month. Now i don't have a girlfriend to get in the way to moan about a silly thing like turning kitchen into workshop should be a lot easier!! LOL!!

When i've finished the ports I'll post some pics up going to be doing this tomorrow and over the next few days hopefully!! Just can't wait to hear that infamous roar from webers on a well tuned honda engine!! You just can't beat it!!

And seriously if anyone ever wants a head done I'm willing to do this for you for the cost of the tools, machining that might need doing and the shipping. But check out some of the places your side though there are places that I've found that are good you just have to look hard and only go to places that have Serdi valve cutters with 5 angle tools then you know they are the dogs bollocks as the other small time shit heads out there just can't afford that equipment and you know there going to be sub standard.

[2drSE-i]

i may have to hit you up on the headwork in a year or two. The shipping would be killer, but it would be worth it to have huge valves like that and nice compression :-)

[2ndGenGuy]

The dogs bollocks? That's a good thing right? :D

[rjudgey]

Some more to get you nice and wet!!

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/29/l_87f62095a1484c8bada20eb75ae3123a.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/l_824e21b3f4e540d697c68537de773872.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/57/l_20b33a2ed2924d538cd351ba867f69a5.jpg

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/52/l_b311a123a70b4d49ab5655139e5878bb.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/36/l_a4c2c625074b443c924ce745b27fa9d8.jpg

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/8/l_d37d2c508b25480488bd78275e831a16.jpg

[EricW]

Nice work and nice parts. What kind of material/tools do you use to polish the ports and chambers?

[rjudgey]

Just a dremel type tool with long flexi shaft, the one i have is quite a bit smaller than the dremel one so is easier to get into tiny ports etc. Then just use mainly an assortment of dremel bits most common are the sanding drums, then the flap wheels, then the mini sanding drums and assorted stones, carbide bit for heavy duty material shifting and a an engraving bit for accuracy on removing material close to valve seats and other sensitive areas, i also have spare valves that are machined so that they fit on the seats to protect them but allow me to work around them to get the chambers blended with the valve seats. I get the machinist to just skim the surfaces, do any welding to chambers or ports, and also to cut the seats was hoping to get a Neway 3 angle cutter but went for more money than i could afford on ebay but someone i know who moved to Ireland has moved back to London again and i can now get 5 angle seats cut again and custom valves, and guides made as well as lots of other head stuff thats hard to get done!! So very happy about that!!

[gfrg88]

nice!!

youre like the bisimoto dude of the A20s :lol:

[rjudgey]

I know not head related but is build related this is my new flywheel thats going to be joined to a clutchnet red plate with kevlar buttons and solid disk, not sure whether to try this or not?? Anyone driven a solid plate disk before?? Whats it like??

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/14/l_5f3cba3d0b2b4eedbfc4775cd04c150e.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/58/l_0dff19cd1b95414c924d26deaf0e2871.jpg

Well this is much nicer than my old one cost quite a bit but i think you'll all agree it's the mutts nuts!! hehehe!!

[rjudgey]

Well finished off making the head flow better and have installed the engine that it's going to be used on in the race car here's some shots did a bit of painting looks worse than it really is in real life flash seems to show up all the bumps and dips everywhere on my paint job lol!!

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/47/l_8042207bf46545058cbe9c392189c779.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/39/l_524aef0364c549118a4735b95b4c3af9.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/45/l_ea8f43f43f5c461a942e565b646d7c61.jpg

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/20/l_37537d0513394c769bb752be074fca01.jpg

Well it's all ready and waiting got the fuel pump in today and the regulator just need to get the exhaust on and finish the valve train on the head, had to recondition some new rockers and match up some springs be couple of days but will be running hopefully wednesday when i get back from work!! Can't wait to hear what it runs like hoping it's gonna sound mega!!

[A18A]

that looks like pure win :thumbup:

[Civic Accord Honda]

what Lord Matt K said.

[Rendon LX-i]

all i got to say is WOW

[codyJDM]

all i got to say is WOW

I second that! :cheers:

[86ccord]

word to yo momma..!


that looks good bro! nice!

[epic1400cs]

Looking great! Nice to see your silver lude is back!

[2ndGenGuy]

Awesome, looks great! Glad to see you tinkering around with your Prelude some more!

[MessyHonda]

whats the plan with the block?

[rjudgey]

Thanks guys, it will look a bit nicer when i've finished, the paint looks gloss as it was wet it's actually satin so will dull down a bit when dry. If I get time I'll try and paint the rest silver again.

As for the block this was a spare that i took out when the head went tits up had a couple of broken valve guides that had bits rattling around, fortunately didn't damage anything apart from put some nice little pitted marks on top of the crown!! Will get caked in carbon soon anyways!! The bores are fine and engine seems to spin nice and free, the engine was blueprinted about 5 years ago by myself and the bearings all look like new, i did put some new thrust washers in as their was noticeable end play on the crank the new stock size washers cured it sweet as a nut!, did put all new gaskets on as well, and a general quick tidy up and cleaned the head surface of a bit of grime and tiny bit of rust. Seems to be level and fine. The pistons are patent ones with the CR ratio of A20A1 unfortunately honda have stopped making stock size A20A3/4 pistons i wanted to get these as they are better designed and have the higher CR ratio but I'll just have to make do with what i got!! The engine has about 15k miles on it but as i said all seems fine i did retorque the con rod bolts to 30lb ft as when i inspected the old engine which was completely mashed ( oh shit i forgot to take pics!! lol!! allready gone to scrapyard with the scrap! lol!! ) had several holes and cracks with two broken rods and a 3rd one that was bent. Engine had done just over 30k miles previously before blowing up, inspected the bearings i think it wouldn't have lasted much longer anyways as the bearings were showing heavy wear maybe another few thousand miles at most, then i noticed what was left of half a rod and half the end cap bent off, i then started to undo what was left of the rods and noticed that one was quite loose!! So i'm thinking that maybe one of the rod bolt nuts came off and that led to the conrod departing the crank which then the force of that jamming the crank at 7k rpm cause the other rod to break off completely and the other one to bend. So i still think that the stock internal rods are still able to withstand quite a punishment on an engine thats been preped for high rpms and blueprinted properly, lightening the internals will help with reliability and shot peening and polishing as well.
But the block is just for getting the car up and running as quick as possible to see what the head can do with a stock block, and then use it for a bit, then will be building a new high compression engine with lightweight rods pistons and light weight piston pins to see what it can really do with another head where I'm going to go silly banana with with slimmer stemmed valves, bigger valves too and much more lary camshaft and bronze guides try some other ideas on port shapes too etc.
So really this is to just do some R&D and see how long it takes before it blows up!! lol!!

[carotman]

This is just awesome work!

[rjudgey]

It's alive!! Really rough sounding and can't dive on the road yet as my mate who was going to test the car is off sick tomorrow god dammit!! Pulled 48hours and no sleep for nothing!! grrrrrr!!
Car sounds sick so frigging loud!! Going to spend some time tuning it and winding up the neighbours hehehehe!! Will take some pics and vids of it running tomorrow when i get up!! Got to get a few bits the car is a right PIA to drive the clutchnet clutch is so grabby and the 10lb flywheel is just so easy to stall unless revving the shit out the engine!! lol!! Should be interesting on the road can't wait to try out Wide open Throttle been far too long i just want to drive it!!

[AccordEpicenter]

awesome, keep us updated!

[rjudgey]

Update heres some pics will try and upload vid tomorrow myspace is being and arse at the moment and timing out!! lol!!

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/55/l_f44734b249ce4fc1850df987b06d214b.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/24/l_ab3a093bebcc4026af1afa8cad42c2f4.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/43/l_f1ec86b945c840dda4bedb80d347e32c.jpg

[redaztec]

Wow, that looks awesome! I can't wait to see it running. Keep up the good work!

[Rendon LX-i]

........................

[2ndGenGuy]

Those runners get me all hot and bothered!

[Hazwan]

SEXY!! Can't wait to see/hear it running. Post tons of vids!

[EricW]

Looks great!

[bullard123]

Wow that looks mint!

[epic1400cs]

I like the blue funnels. Looking great!

[rjudgey]

Not as mint as it use to be unfortunately!! But luckily i do have a spare one that is!! hehehe.
Not sure whats going on with myspace won't let me upload the vid got my first complaint from a neighbour today wouldn't mind but she's 100 meters away if it were that bad i'm sure either ones next door would have said something!! Moany old cow!
Tuning is getting there but i need new jetting on the idle circuit will probably take it in to get tuned and dyoned be interesting to see what it's putting down now with the crap exhaust and then after with a proper header and a well made race exhaust system.

[carotman]

Are you able to use filters on this setup?

[rjudgey]

Filters? don't they restrict air flow! hehehe Yeah i could put something on my original K&N's don't fit the trumpets plus i thought shame to hide them!! Doesn't get used all the time i've never had any issues with not using filters so won't be bothering this time either!!

Passed the car test so thats a relief!! my bit of bodywork fooled them into thinking it was mint and pristine!! hehehe.
Had the carbs re-jetted and setup couldn't do this at home the neighbours were bitching too much!! lol!!
Unfotunately as expected the combination of crap exhaust and low compression ratio on the block only led to 172.5bhp but considering it's pretty good figure for now i think the header and exhaust being made up properly should account for quite an increase the tuning guy said it sounded like it was being strangled and felt it had a lot more to go but revs die off at 7k but this should be nearer 8-8.5k with the cam and head work i've done!! Running really well though took it for a quick spin back home from test station and it's seriously rapid 1st and 2nd gear is just instant 0-60 time must be pretty mental!! The clutch is much nicer to use bedded in on the way up to the station it's actually pretty driveable in the street!! Going to try and get the exhaust sorted out ASAP and get the whole thing done properly reckon could gain easily 15-20bhp from header and system just not sure what size collector and main pipe to use? 2.25" or 2.5"?? What do you think? Also have some tweaks on the ignition side of things to make still so may find a few more horses hidden in there!! But plan was to just get it running for now for track use till i have time to build the high compression engine and maybe get some other bit's made for the head with different shaped valves and thinner stems. Main thing is it's bleeding quick, bloody loud and i love it!! Damn thing did blow up the alternator or voltage regulator again though!! It's allways got to have something go wrong!! this is like the 4th alternator and 6th regulator to go!! not sure what I'm doing wrong with this, i did accidentaly short out the alternator power wire with a spanner when i was fiddling so not sure if that helped blow it up or not!!
Have a different alternator and regulator in so hopefully will last a while!!
Getting the suspension aligned tomorrow as i put some poly tie rod bushes in the other day. Must say handles and stops like a dream with those in!! Definately will be buying more and changing them into all my ludes!!

[mykwikcoupe]

sweet so pull it off and send it to me. You can start your next one asap!!

[thegreatdane]

wow mr. head guru, the new setup is looking slick as hell! Those valves are huge.

172.5, good god that's impressive with stock c/r and exhaust! And if it dies at 7k already there's no doubt your exhaust is strangling it.
Amazing work indeed.

Are you planning on a custom header?

[markmdz89hatch]

right, so in Feb or early March, I'll be in the market for 2 heads just like that. If you're interested in doing it for me, we'll talk $$ and coordinate where the heads will come from (ie. I send you 2 of mine, or just pay you to source 2 over there). Those numbers are insane for a stock c/r and shit exhaust. Which block is in there right now? A20A3 or A1 (or A2). Is the whole bottom end bone stock? What cam was in there during that dyno pull?

...what kind of dyno was it? What are you running for your ignition sys? Me likes.

any chance you can scan post up those dyno slips?

Very impressive indeed.

[rjudgey]

Hi guys thanks for the comments again!!
I try to keep everything as stock as possible so that we can see just how far we can push these old engines without spending mega bucks, was keen to do this before i pushed out the high compression fully built race engine. As with a few spare parts some machining plus webers obviosuly everyone could have an engine with tonnes of torque and respectable bhp levels!!

The Dyno print out i will take pic off soon just so much to do to prepare for track tomorrow and now it's threatening to blizzard so not sure if going to make it!! Had to get 4 new tyres cause the old ones were flat spotted from being sat for 3 years so was pissed at that more expense!! lol!! But the curve is pretty amazing. Yes the exhaust is shit it's got a stock header ported and polished a little, then a really poor downpipe with 2" joint leading to a 2.25" crush bent system which is more like a 2" -1.75" system at one bend in particular. Might for now just get it chopped up and put some mandrel bends in the bad bits, get a new downpipe made and get a 2.25" collector put in and see how that goes wouldn't cost too much and i could use that on the white SI when I then go for the 2.5" full race setup with custom header!!

Right down to technical details, what i used was A20 head (all the same as far as i know) A18 exhaust valve springs all round, A20/A18/ET/ET1 exhaust valves machined to 33mm (i don't like the profile of the head or the thickness of the stem i think i could increase flow considerably if i used SI valves exhaust valves and had them waisted and remachined to 33mm!) The exhaust valves are from a Cosworth engine the stem size is slighly thicker by .25mm and used the cossy collets which fit the honda retainers fine, the stem height and collet groove have to be positioned just right and the exhaust rockers need a bit of machining on the underside to have a nice amount of clearance!! I used Exhaust platforms and retainers on the inlets and left the rockers alone on that side.

The camshaft is a pipercams 285 degree with 10mm lift to be honest this cam is too much for the exhaust and in the past with the big valves, i have found the 272 degree performs better across the board but as thats in my other car i had no choice but to stick with this for the minute. Ultimately with the proper exhaust in place i would want something like a 290-295 degree camshaft with 11-12mm lift, this would make it really fly!!

Block end wise allways pushing what you can do with stock blocks, it's based around a A20A4 but was built using patent pistons which have the A20A1 CR ratio so big dish in the middle!! Can't get honda stock pistons anymore i did try hoping to get the CR ratio upto 9.4:1 this would have netted in more efficient exhaust as the gases get reduced with higher CR ratio, and also more explosive force would increase Bhp. Estimate with stock honda CR ratio would have been about 180-185bhp roughly. With the exhaust and header i reckon an increase of around 15-20bhp would easily be achievable. The block is just blueprinted by myself and has acutally done 15k miles it's bearings are like new but if i weren't so lazy i should have honed it and put new rings in this would have given me quite a boost in power as the compression test was quite low about 160-170psi when i have a new run in engine compression test are normally about 200-210psi and will stay like that for 10k miles before tailing off slightly. The internals are all balanced etc, and the rings are hand gapped general blueprinting procedures, but the rods are stress relieved and polished stock ones i've also done up the rod bolts extra 5lbft as the stock settigs aren't high enough they work loose after 30k miles!! this is what caused the last engine to blow up!!

So essentially all i have added to a stock A20A1 is inlet manifold twin webbers and some trick headwork with cam and a slightly better than stock exhaust and bingo you have 172.5bhp which is probably still improveable if i had a new block in and still haven't finished tweeking the ignition settings and cam timing settings so may find a few extra bhp i normally do after a while!!

Ignition all I am using is Splitfire leads (my crane cams leads snapped off at the plug end!! they were new so well pissed off!!), new rotor arm, cleaned up the contacts on the dizzy, the coil is stock, and used NGK non resistor plugs, i have some Direct hits ignition capacitors which screw onto the plugs i might give them a try and see how it performs. I definately want to convert to dizzy less system using Ford twin coil packs from EDIS setup but just wanted it running for now!! Would definately gain power from this I'm sure as well as accuracy and being able to alter the timing from laptop rather than physically!!

Right it's dry and sunny so I'm off for a blat will try and rig up the camera so you can have a look!! will post everything soon promise just so much to do!!

[rjudgey]

I'd be happy to sort out anyones head but seriously there is a good place is U.S. i don't mind but the shipping is a killer and i don't have many A20 spares and getting hold of A20 engines is now a hard job!! So if you would like to send them more than welcome I'll jus charge you for machining work, any parts used including dremel tools and any fuel for transporting the heads around to the machinist and back. But seriously check out these guys they know there shit and can do some nice work!!
http://www.cccylinderheads.com/
Anyone what can cater for 5 angle seats with radiused edges is a good outfit someone who says only do 3 angle and i use a hand cutter or worse grinding stones you need to avoid like the plague!! Only use people with Serdi as they know what they are doing off and have loads of money and experience to go with that!! Serdi machine costs like $30-40k to buy for seat cutting, used by F1 and Indy teams. I think the cost in shipping and then the cost in machining you could have a race head done by these guys but don't do their packages i can advise you on what to have done and just stick to that!!

[cygnus x-1]

This is pretty awesome, and just goes to show that the major limitation of the A20 is head flow. Except for the exhaust each of the major parts are complimentary. The larger valves, 285 cam, and single throttle per cylinder intake; all designed for maximum flow. I bet this thing would really scream with a 4-1 tuned pipe header.

And yeah, I'm sure you could find more power with an electronic ignition. At the very least you could increase the advance under light throttle cruise and pick up some MPG and throttle response. I found that the timing table from the LS Integras is an improvement over the stock A18 distributor curve in the low RPM/low throttle range, as it brings in lots of advance very early on. The "A" engines don't have quite the optimized combustion chamber that the "B" engines do so they need a little more advance at the top end than what's in the 'teg table. However, with higher compression the LS-Integra timing might be spot on.
Seriously, you need the electronic ignition. It's not hard to do either. Once you get the crank sensor and trigger ring done the rest is just simple wiring and finding a good place to mount the ignition module, Megajolt controller, and coil.

One thing I'm wondering about though. What is your vacuum reading at idle? Do the Webers have separate vacuum ports for each barrel or are they combined? One characterstic (by their very design) of individual throttle setups is that they have low manifold vacuum. This causes major issues if you need to use that signal for fueling (EFI) or spark timing. So many people switch to throttle position based tuning instead of MAP based tuning with ITB setups. If you went with the electronic ignition you might have to do the same depending on what kind of MAP your setup produces.

C|

[rjudgey]

Theres more to come I'm sure just need to seriously ditch the exhaust, the head is restricting flow it's definately the exhaust, i've had other engines rev much higher and the cam isn't ideal. I think the power from the ET1 was better and maybe even the shorter runners might be better too. It's Chamber was smaller though so the CR ratio was higher for sure probably around 9.5-10:1 also revved higher peaked at 7k and revved to 7.5k still this one peaks at 6.5k and pulls to 7k but with the valves, headwork and the camshaft it should be peaking at around 7.5k and pulling to 8k it just sounds bogged down like before i had this rubbish exhaust made. If i get this new one made up i'm sure it will release a serious amount of power just the fact that it will be a uniformed size diameter instead of going from 2" to 2.25" to crushed bend about 2" And one is even more like 1.8" it's so badly bent!! so a nice mandrel bent 2.25" or 2.5" with same size collector and long primary header still going to stick with 4-2-1 with extra long primaries I'm sure it will pickup some serious revs and power to boot. Then the rest will have to be taken care off with a high compression block with some custom pistons, might even look at welding the chambers a bit possibly will ask my engineer see what he thinks, i like the hemi style chambers though so we'll see.

[gfrg88]

Theres more to come I'm sure just need to seriously ditch the exhaust, the head is restricting flow it's definately the exhaust, i've had other engines rev much higher and the cam isn't ideal. I think the power from the ET1 was better and maybe even the shorter runners might be better too. It's Chamber was smaller though so the CR ratio was higher for sure probably around 9.5-10:1 also revved higher peaked at 7k and revved to 7.5k still this one peaks at 6.5k and pulls to 7k but with the valves, headwork and the camshaft it should be peaking at around 7.5k and pulling to 8k it just sounds bogged down like before i had this rubbish exhaust made. If i get this new one made up i'm sure it will release a serious amount of power just the fact that it will be a uniformed size diameter instead of going from 2" to 2.25" to crushed bend about 2" And one is even more like 1.8" it's so badly bent!! so a nice mandrel bent 2.25" or 2.5" with same size collector and long primary header still going to stick with 4-2-1 with extra long primaries I'm sure it will pickup some serious revs and power to boot. Then the rest will have to be taken care off with a high compression block with some custom pistons, might even look at welding the chambers a bit possibly will ask my engineer see what he thinks, i like the hemi style chambers though so we'll see.

with all the work done on the head, i'd go with 2.5" collector all the way back through with mandrel bends..

[rjudgey]

Yeah i'm thinking the same thing and if it kills the torque i can just add a turbo onto it!! hehehe!!

[gfrg88]

Yeah i'm thinking the same thing and if it kills the torque i can just add a turbo onto it!! hehehe!!

i honestly doubt it will kill torque that much... plus, you shouldn't be worrying about the low end.. it is meant to be "high revving engine" isn't it?? :D

[rjudgey]

hahaha yes to a certain degree just trying to keep the best of both worlds hence why i'm only looking at cams with duration less than 300 degrees 285 is amazingly streetable with the right ignition and cam timing set the lightweight flywheel just needs a little more revs if the car is light is harder to stall so easy too which helps!! Was stuck in traffic for an hour yesterday helped bed the clutch in and wasn't that hard work really arse was numb from the new buckets i bought they seem to have zero padding on the new Cobras for some odd reason lol!!

[rjudgey]

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/42/l_0b45deaa495845fcaa26d7c8ae62f822.jpg

Sorry about the delay been a bit busy clearing up and tweeking the engine still!! Got it running a bit better throttle plates weren't quite shutting tightly all sorted now and the central balancer screw kept working loose i've cleaned it out and superglued it in place!! Tinkered with the Main jets and ignition timing a little getting a bit more top end and less stuttering overall cold weather and running no thermostat isn't helping might stick it back in at weekend see what it runs like with some heat in the engine!! Be nice to not freeze in the car too lol!! 105KW at the wheels maybe a little bit more now but not much had a look at the old graph and it stops producing power in exactly the same place so i definately think it's a bottleneck in the exhaust if the CR ratio was much higher the exhaust is less of an issue due to less exhaust gas mass to push out due to the cleaner burning of higher CR ratio engines but as it's well low around 8.8:1 it's got too much gas to push out of a 2" pipe at the collector. Going to get a new downpipe made up and get rid of those crush bends and get some 2.25" mandrel bends put in shouldn't cost too much to do this and will be good to see what kinda gains i get from minimal mods to the exhaust then it will be custom header time :o)

[rjudgey]

Will try and get some vids up soon still having issues with myspace have some great track vids of me scaring some Civic and Integra Type-r's out the way!! hehehe!!

[Ichiban]

So 105 kW=141.89189189189189189...hp?

[SZfiftyfour]

141whp, not too shabby already, cant wait to see it after the mods!

edit: dammit, guy beat me to it lol

[rjudgey]

That is right at the wheels not the flywheel, got another trick up my sleeve that might help with the exhaust bottleneck a little, have some direct hits ignition modules which really helps with a much cleaner and fuller combustion going to try these at the weekend and see how it runs, but at the end of the day i know it's really the exhaust and the low compression of the pistons thats the main bug bear!! The last engine was a ET1 with 2.0 pistons and the chambers were much smaller was using the same A20A1 pistons but due to the smaller chambers from the 1.6/1.8 ET1 engine the CR ratio was much higher than what i have now. But gives most of you guy's hope that without spending a mega amount of money you can have an engine that can put down 140-150bhp at the wheels with basically a rebuilt stock block, header, exhaust, some headwork with enlarged valves without needing new seats, a mild camshaft, and with either twin webers, bike carbs, or ITB's or maybe a plenum setup with short fat runners and larger TB can achieve. Combine this with increases in CR ratio and you can get significant power increases. Theres still much more i can get out the head i didn't have time to really go to town on it as it was a rush/budget job, ultimately i'd like to have slimmer stems on the inlet valves with much nicer head profile on the valve, 5 angle seats on all valves and seats, and maybe even bigger inlet valves with new seats there is room for slightly more but whether it would be advantagous i'm not sure 33mm is good enough for 230-240bhp, also want to get some new bronze guides made up and a more wilder cam made with 290-295 degrees and definately more lift going from 10mm to 11.5mm which will make quite a difference the 10mm lift is fine for stock valve sizes but now they are much bigger it's not working at it's optimum performance unfortunately. I have the scope for more lift in the valvetrain might have to look at some different springs but definately can cope with it. It's all good fun just love doing the R&D and luckily have loads of A20 spares so i can have other heads and blocks being worked on at the same time that this one is in the car being used so i can still have fun with it at the same time!! Next biggest problem is just getting the pistons made that i want with the one off offset valve pockets in the crowns to help increase the CR ratio.

[A18A]

this is way cool, cant wait to see results with a new exhaust :D. those are pretty good results for a budget rush job. wanna do up my b20a for me? :D

[gfrg88]

i want to see you build the block up with some really high CR pistons in there!! :D

[rjudgey]

Yes it's not bad would have been a lot better if i could have got hold of some new A20A3/4 pistons with the 9.4:1 CR ratio, plus the fact that i would have honed and had new rings in which would have been hand gapped i think this would have gained probably about another 7-10bhp over what i have now if i had the parts available. Next time I'll be dropping in some 83mm pistons with CR ratio of around 11-11.5:1 with lighter stronger internals then we'll see just how much we can get from a highly tuned A20 with webers!! But still tinkering and tweeking as they say!! Can't wait for the weather to get better and the drag strip to open up!! Roll on Summer!!

[rjudgey]

In fact now i know why it was sucking balls!! Damn silly engine tuner swapped out my plugs and replaced them with shitty normal ones!! He put in these crappy things!! NGK triple electrode normal resistor plugs just higher heat grade, the engine hates them cause they just don't burn strong enough have to use racing plugs with no resistors in them!! Normally Nology silver or Bosch copper, just put in the plugs i normally use and bam running smoother and loads more power!! grrrrr well the power is definately up i reckon probably as much as 5-7bhp the wheels are lighting up much easier now in this shitty weather!! Have wheelspin in all 3 gears now lol!! Oh well at least i know what the issue was the exhaust is still holding it back though!! oh also did a compression check to make sure all is well and reading a nice steady 175psi across all 4 cylinders including the one that injested some of a broken valve guide which is a relief!! Just a shame i didn't put new rings in but has done 15k race miles so 175psi is good!!! normally able to get 205-210psi on a new build so power would be better with fresh hone and rings but as i said just wanted it running quick and cheap so not bad at all should last a while at least another 15-20k miles if i look after it well!! :O)

[markmdz89hatch]

very nice. glad to hear about that plug find.

I checked out that link you provided a bit back for a state side head builder, and I'm very excited about this. I'll definitely be looking you up for some details to pass along to them when it comes time to do so. I'm hoping to get a few heads out to them by March(~ish).

You know, I have a spare set of A3 pistons that have been washed with WD40 for a few years now. I think the mileage was about 120k when they were pulled. If there is a marking on them, or another way you know of for me to tell the compression, and you're interested in them, you're welcome to them.

Keep on keeping on, this is one of my fav threads at the moment.

[rjudgey]

thanks for the offer i can get new ones here but only in 83mm was hoping to be able to get some stock ones and just drop em in at the time, but unfortunately couldn't do it i think there is one set of new honda ones in the U.S. but thats it none left in Japan either!! I have a spare 2nd hand set myself but unfortunately they happened to be 83mm!! Seemed odd as the engine seemed to be original from honda!! Funny looked up a spare block for fun they still do them was £2900 pounds!!! ouch!!! but at least i know i can get a A20A3/4 if i really really wanted too!! lol!!

As for head work for you i would really love to do yours for you but it's just the cost of the shipping and the cost of machine work in this country would be far cheaper to get it done at that place i found over your side. But if you really really wanted a head done by me i would be more than glad to do it for you or anyone else.

What i was thinking for a really good head on a high end budget would be some custom SI valves with 6.5mm stems waisted with 33.5-34mm head swirl polished tulip shaped head and flat underside, new seats to fit the 34mm valve head, 5 angle with radiused edges, exhaust valve 7mm stem waisted with 37.5mm head and flat underside this size will fit stock seat still so no need to alter again 5 angle with radiused edges, bronze guides fitted all round, use ET1 canadian 2G accord head valve retainers and platforms with springs from a good supplier like Cat cams or Crower etc. Camshaft with 290 degrees duration and 12mm lift on intake and 12.5mm lift on exhaust may need to modify the spring platforms to get an extra 1mm clearance for the cam. Again have the injector hole welded up on the inlet ports, even have the guide removed and the hole welded up completely then have it redrilled so that you don't get that horrible gap between the guide and the port, then have the exhaust port guide and ramp reshaped so it flows much nicer. But this would need a custom header to be bolted up and a race exhaust system. Potentially some serious power and revs from this if you wanted really high revs then the cam would have to be 300-310 degrees and you would have to look at getting titanium retainers and valves made up instead which would cost a few quid!! The valve train can handle the revs fine just you'd want to reduce the weight of the valves and retainers for quicker revving and just incase valve float becomes an issue. There's also the chambers which you could have welded up like open loop i'm not a fan of that to be honest becuase personally i think the chamber shape stock is good and all you do is block the flow of the valves by adding in the extra ally, the CR ratio can be improved by better ways of removing some material off the head and block as well as custom forged pistons with flat tops and only 3 valve relief pockets instead of the 4. Larger bore size will increase the CR ratio as well so going to a 83mm pistons will help. You can safely take off 1mm on the block as well as the head.

If on a tighter budget and if parts are hard to get hold off, you could just get some SI exhaust valves for A20 have them waisted and machined to 33-34mm or you could use the old exhaust valves from the A20/ET series (SI valves are nicer shape though!) and have the exhaust ones custom made still, use the retainers and platforms from the exhaust side of the A20 engine and use the double exhaust valve springs from A18/ET engines all round. Just have the injector ports welded up and leave the guide ramps stock on the inlet side, the guides will be reemed out for the new valves so no need to replace these this time round, the exhaust guides would be better off to be replaced with bronze ones or new cast iron ones or have a bronze insert fitted or have the grooved technique done to it. But you'd still be better off with custom header and exhaust system still. But you would still have to have 3 angle seats done as a minimum and have the chambers opened up a little for the valves and polish them up too.

I allready have a 10lb flywheel may look at getting another one made that is lighter, then i have my JDM leightweight pulley from DL which is just a single pulley for the Alternator, Karillo leightweight uprated conrods, then titanium pistons pins made up, then forged pistons with the flat tops and 3 valve pocket reliefs, some quality rings, ACL bearings, some mods to the crank to improve oil circulation, same for the block, then get the solid hub clutch disk put in 1/3 the weight of the spring hub disk from clutch net!! Then should be ready to rock for revs upto 9k rpm!! Then it's just a case of bolting on the head and see what we get!! The CR ratio is whats going to make the difference and going from 8.8:1 to 11.5:1 will have a big impact on power and torque the head gasket from felpro should hopefully last a while on that compression otherwise may have to get the block ringed and or run a copper gasket. If i run a copper one at least i can get a slimmer one and help increase the CR ratio. But lots to do and all going to take time and money, may start off with stock Honda A3 pistons in 83mm and see what we get with that and some block and head shaving if i can get a CR ratio of 10.5:1 that wouldn't be so bad either!!

[rjudgey]

Just finished tinkering with the ignition timing and the plugs deifnately running much much better the engine is revving a lot more freely and the rpm range has increased engine now pulls like a train to 7.5krpm will go higher but with loss in power and to be honest with stock rods don't want to go any higher than that for now!! Amazing the difference just changing the plugs can make!! The car just doesn't like resistor plugs needs all the ignition upgrades it can get really should get crank fired ignition fitted will do at some point but just want to enjoy having the car running well for now!! lol!!

[2ndGenGuy]

I just saw your video on myspace. Thing is a beast man!!!

[rjudgey]

Blimey thought you would have seen those ages ago!! Those vids are from way back!! I have some track footage but struggling with getting it down to a sensible size and getting the footage up the right way camera was upside down at the time!! Video is super cool though have patience will be worth the weight!!
Oh and talking of weight had the car weighed after pulling a few bits out 900Kg's exactly with 1/4 of tank of gas in and the 10 litre reserve, have a quite a few other things to do reckon i can easily shave off another 45Kg's just a shame i can shave a few Kg's off too!! lol!!

Really happy with this engine compression is ok across the board 175psi all round was worried number 2 would be down as it had a tiny bit of damage by some cast iron guides falling into the old head and into the bores and piston but it's fine. The head seems to be working really well just can't wait to get a decent exhaust header and system on i'm reckoning that the power hike and torque hike is going to be pretty insane!! If i can get nearly 200bhp with just a stock low compression A20A1 engine it will really fly with the high compression lightweight bottom end!!

For those who haven't seen the car recently heres some pics of the outside and inside!! And yes for those who didn't realize this is a 2nd gen lude!!

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/1/l_e0e5433bc1d44fceba7ba4d3199a8ce3.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/55/l_f7438a1000934effb0f5af412a85a57c.jpg

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh yeah I saw some of your videos a little while ago, those in car videos, of you topping out... But didn't see those ones with the engine and such. I thought that was from the new engine!

[markmdz89hatch]

there's a good 20lbs of tar/sound deadening shit on that floorpan that can go. I've had a few friends do that, and it did save some weight, but it's a bitch of a job, and you'd be VERY surprised with just how much that goo aids in sound deadening. The thing will sound even more like riding in a tin can once that's out. ...but it's all in the name of weight reduction right.

[rjudgey]

vid clips for some reason won't upload to myspace can't work out why?? it's about 33mb so not huge just the engine idling and me frantically trying to put the throttle cable back in position after i just booted it!! lol!! The track day vids are about 600mb so going to have to do something to that to reduce the size only 10minutes long but pretty good to watch. Still having issues with the brakes though pulls quite badly to the left, i stripped down the right caliper and bleed the fluid and made no difference, the left one keeps locking up and the right doens't seem to have enough pressure. Not sure if my valve has crapped out or if it's a problem somewhere else, the suspension has all new bushes and poly tie rod bushes so the suspension shouldn't be the issue the fact that the left keeps locking i still think it's a brakes issue either caliper or the valve. It was doing this when i rebuilt them just before the engine died the calipers were all new with disks and pads at the time as the engine died i didn't really look into it much thought it was the suspension alignment which was out at the time when i put the new suspension in. Now i have had it aligned and everything has been changed has to be caliper or the brake valve which is a real pia!! Have a spare pair of old 4 pot calipers so might stick them on and see if the issue goes away!! If it doesn't then it must be the valve, i have a couple of spares so isn't a major disaster just inconvinient!!

[rjudgey]

And the sound deadening, hmm yeah i have quite a bit from stock and aftermarket just not sure about removing all of it, i'm going to remove the stuff from the boot lid that will save a couple of Kilos but the stuff on the floor not sure to take out it kinda keeps the rust away!! Would be nice to get the weight down more but if i can get it to 850kg's which i think is achievable without too much effort i'm gonna be pretty happy with that!! Not much out there that is lighter!! thats for sure just a shame i didn't have enough spare cash for some really light buckets and ally side mounts would have been 10kg's lighter than what i have in place now!!

[Ichiban]

there's a good 20lbs of tar/sound deadening shit on that floorpan that can go. I've had a few friends do that, and it did save some weight, but it's a bitch of a job, and you'd be VERY surprised with just how much that goo aids in sound deadening. The thing will sound even more like riding in a tin can once that's out. ...but it's all in the name of weight reduction right.

Use a heat gun from below, and a scraper from above. Wash the remaining film off with pre-wipe solvent, and you're floor pan will come up perfectly clean. Takes two people and some beer, and chances are your buddy will get bored with the heat gun and start lighting the rubber floor plugs on fire. If this happens, just poke them out with your scraper, the flaming plug will drop down and burn him all to shit, and he'll stop burning them.

Glass is HEAVY. I plan on replacing my 45 lb hatch glass with perspex or Lexan

[rjudgey]

Dry ice works better just chips off with chisel and hammer!! And fortunately mine is a DL so doesn't come with any electrics or sun roof, and no PS or AC so is allready light as they come and also being UK spec doesn't have those humongous bumper iron girders at each end!!

[Ichiban]

Dry ice works better just chips off with chisel and hammer!! And fortunately mine is a DL so doesn't come with any electrics or sun roof, and no PS or AC so is allready light as they come and also being UK spec doesn't have those humongous bumper iron girders at each end!!

Hey, mine doesn't even have power steering. 930 kg with a probable B20A gold top pushing. Should go okay.

[A20A1]

found it. :D

[2drSE-i]

So having looked at those pictures again rjudgey, seems to me that there is a TON of material that can be removed/reshaped. Id love to see some more in depth port pics :-D

[Doward]

BACK FROM TEH DEAD

I'd love to see the pics, period :(

[rjudgey]

ok go here and visit my web page

www.myspace.com/rjudgey

Watch this space for B20A build have to get this done by Early September so it's going to be interesting!

[P|eszczoH]

ok go here and visit my web page

www.myspace.com/rjudgey

Watch this space for B20A build have to get this done by Early September so it's going to be interesting!

Rjudgey
are those for Prelude ?
http://www.myspace.com/rjudgey#!/rjudgey/photos/albums/stratosphere-blue-lude/2145564

[rjudgey]

what exactly you referring to?? The suspension or the engine? All my cars are Preludes BTW. I build the engines myself and the suspension was custom made by Gaz shocks if you send them couple of old dampers they can do the same for 3G accord too.

[piter]

I think P|eszczoH was referring to Gaz-shocks. We were discussing this subject lately ;)

So they don't have these shocks on stock - but if I send them dampers from 2nd gen lude as pattern they'll do it? That's the way you did, am I right? What is predictable price for this job?

[P|eszczoH]

My bad i did not check the link.
I was referring to Gaz shocks...
I know their products as my friends use them on 924 Porsches, cheaper than bilsteins or konis, and a bit easier regulation.

I didnt know that they do special orders.